73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: Decker1024 on March 11, 2015, 02:02:14 pm
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I need some new ball joints but the mechanics around my area want a ridiculous amount of money to install them, was think of doing it myself but not sure what I need, was hoping someone could help me out, I'm 17 and absolutely love old Chevy trucks, I rebuilt the top end of my engine myself and want to learn more about these old Chevys, anything helps, thanks in advance
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There is a procedure that needs to be followed.
Special tools needed are the 4-prong spindle nut socket. A ball joint fork. There is a small spanner socket that you will need to preload the sleeve on the top balljoint stud.
Standard tools needed are needle nose pliers. Hex sockets for the tie rod nuts, upper ball joint lower ball joint. Snap ring pliers. Allen wrench for the lockout cap. And so on......
You'll also need access to a hydraulic press. Beating the old ball joints out is acceptable but the new ones need to be pressed in.
There is also a big c-clamp looking thing with a hole in it that is for pressing ball joints in. This can be used in lieu of the hydraulic press.
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http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
I found this to be a useful link
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What is rediculous money?
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Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it, and they're asking around 3-400 per side, figured I could do it myself for cheaper as I already have most of the tools
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thats not really all that much if you think about labor rate being $50-80 bucks an hour plus parts. I am NOT saying thats cheap but for a shop doing everything id say its resonable.
But its not the way to go. take your time and dont cut corners and you can do it yourself for the price of parts and probably the rental fee of a ball joint press kit like Engineer mentioned.
I did my 79's balljoints with the help of my stepdad in about 12 hours with a few setbacks and small issues like having to run to town for parts. not the fasted time in the world but it was our first time with on a squarebody balljoint job
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True, I just rather learn myself for future reference. Come March 20th when I get paid and have some time off I'll update you guys on how it goes, thanks for the help guys!
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http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
I found this to be a useful link
only problem thats 2wd. a 4wd is funner
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http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/chevy_truck_4wd_front_axle_ball_joint_replacement.html
all the times i taken mine apart i wouldnt think it would be that much But you do have to pretty much strip the axle down
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i cant seam to find a write up on a 4x4 ball joint change that we have. if you dont mind take pictures and do a write up and we will put it in a good place
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i cant seam to find a write up on a 4x4 ball joint change that we have. if you dont mind take pictures and do a write up and we will put it in a good place
Thanks for the input, and will do!
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30551.0 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=20739.0) sorry just found one. knew we had something but it was so long ago i forgot how he labeled it. moved it to the Tech section so it wont be lost again.
also if you dont want to you dont have to remove the steering arm. it does make it easier but its not required
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Don't skimp out on anything. While you are in there inspect, and replace anything that doesn't pass "the test"
Wheel bearings and races. Spindle bearings. Spindle seals. Axle u-joints.
At the least you'll want to repack your wheel bearings so buy new wheel (hub) seals to start.
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Have fun finding ball joints that are no made in china
Make sure you ask and check the box. Otherwise that's exactly what you're gonna get
I wound tapping them back in with a properly sized socket a hammer and a chunk of wood
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
I found this to be a useful link
only problem thats 2wd. a 4wd is funner
Doh! Big fail on my part lol
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To be honest it may sound like the mechanics are charging a lot but when you factor in prices of parts and tools you'll be paying twice as much.
For example I picked up the spindle socket with the 4 points and it cost me $20. I picked up the ball joint removal tool and it cost me $90. That already is over $100.
Also take into consideration if you are doing ball joints its time to look at the ujoints of the front shafts as well as your bearings and seals. The seals and bearings will be at least another $150 cost to do as well.
Also spanner wrench for ball joint preload? Never heard of such a thing and will have to look into that myself.
** EDIT **
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=101152
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$300 to $400 per side is not bad money at all. Even better money if it includes parts.
They can be done in the driveway though.
A good quality jack, & jack stands are a must. A spindle nut / hub nut socket too.
Set both sides of front axle on jack stands. Between the shock mounts, & knuckle is a good spot.
Lay out a clean rag to set the hub parts, & spindle nuts on in order they come out.
Clean, & check out all the hub parts for wear, or damage. Re grease them all when re installing.
Use a brass punch to knock the back bearing & seal out, or a seal puller from the back side.
Clean the old grease out of the old bearings, inspect them, & the race for any scratches, or missing finish. If there is any question replace them. Make sure you pack the bearings, not just slather the outside with grease when re installing.
Remove the spindle, inspect the bearing inside the the spindle. These bearings are very commonly overlooked. Coat the spindle with grease before you slide the hub / rotors back on when re assembling.
There is a kit available to replace the inner bearings, & the rubber / plastic dust boot that goes over the short axle shaft that helps keep these bearings clean of crud.
Remove the axle shafts. ( This is a great time to replace the axle joints. )
Since you are replacing the ball joints don't worry about trying to get the cotter pins out. Cut them off as close to the nut as you can. Whack the correct size socket down onto the nut, it will fit over whats left of the cotter pin. Take an impact & spin the nut off. The nut will clean the cotter pin right off. I usually leave the top nut on a few threads. This way when the knuckle comes loose it doesn't fall completely off. As far as the tie rod nuts, & drag link nut if you can't get those cotter pins out you can cut them off with the nut as well, Usually doesn't hurt the threads. Then you can use a drill to removes whats left of the cotter pins.
Then you will need to remove the bottom nut. If you don't have an impact swivel you will need to use hand tools.
Use a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the axle. If the fork doesn't separate them leave it in for pressure. Then whack down on the knuckle. Be careful not to hit the spindle studs.
Put it in the vise, & use a ball joint press to remove & install them.
Then reassemble.
Use the ball joint press to remove, & install the axle joints too if you decide to replace them.
Rep[lace the tie rod, & drag link cotter pins with new ones is a good idea too, even if you did get them to come out.
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I'm only saying this because of the seventeen year old reference on the part of the OPer. When you clean the axle bearings do not use gas, do not rub with with towels, do not use compressed air to spin dry a clean bearing. If you do not have a parts cleaner with filtered washer fluid use kerosene instead. Diesel is cheaper but dirtier. Otherwise a few cans of contact cleaner works (expensive). I don't use starting fluid, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner since these can be a fire hazard. Trans fluid works pretty good too but then still needs to be cleaned off before packing with fresh grease. A good nylon bristle brush will be required for whatever cleaner you use.
It's all the little details that take so long for some things. Little things like not having a clean pan to put things in for cleaning if a parts washer is not available, forgetting the wire for when the caliper needs held out of the way, having the wrong sized pickle fork (which BTW can also be used with an air hammer), and the list of little things keeps accumulating. For me, add to that the fact I have to work on my stuff on a gravel drive and the frustrations skyrocket.
Good luck!
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If you haven't purchased your ball joints yet take a look at RockAuto.com. They are half the price as the box carpart stores and it's the same part.
Has anyone commented on the spanner tool referenced in the second post required to preload the top ball joint? I am getting ready to do this and am curious what he meant.
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There's an adjustment sleeve on the top knuckle. You can use a punch and hammer idk the problems with doing it this way and the proper way to adjust it
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If you haven't purchased your ball joints yet take a look at RockAuto.com. They are half the price as the box carpart stores and it's the same part.
Has anyone commented on the spanner tool referenced in the second post required to preload the top ball joint? I am getting ready to do this and am curious what he meant.
Its a tool by OTC part # 7080 and yes you need this tool to remove the sleeve and install it as you need to torque it down properly.
I bought it locally last minute and it cost me $30.
http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-7080-Joint-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B0002SRDEG
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I guess the Original Poster never came back? Since I only visit here every month or two these days, I don't keep up very good. Nevertheless....
My original 1978 shop service manual (this poor manual has seen better days since I bought it in about 1980) says to check preload of the top ball joint while turning the knuckle with a fish scale attached to it. With everything disconnected from the knuckle and the fish scale attached to the tie rod end hole with knuckle in the straight forward position the maximum amount of force to keep the knuckle moving (after it breaks free and starts moving) is 25 lbs in both directions. The sleeve DOES have a torque adjustment done at the time of new installation of 50ftlbs (before the new ball joint is installed obviously) and the retaining nut to 100ftlbs minimum (after the ball joint is installed) or slightly more to get a cotter key slot to line up, never loosen to align the slot. It also says due caution needs to be used when installing, removing, or adjusting this sleeve so as not to bugger up the fine threads inside, the sleeve is hardened steel, the knuckle threads are not. To adjust, loosen and remove the ball stud top nut, loosen the sleeve slightly (as necessary) and re-torque the top nut and recheck the preload, rinse and repeat as necessary.
For what it's worth, this is, as I mentioned, for the 78 model year K model 1/2 tons (12 bolts and Dana 44's) but most axles should be the same in the 73- 86 plus era with standard axles.