73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: Jakethesnake73 on March 27, 2015, 01:52:51 pm
-
My blazer has an alarm system taking up all the constant 12v battery slots and im wondering how i can add like 3 more slots, can i run a thicker wire from the battery and hook up 3 smaller wires to that once its in the cab or do i have to run all the wires separate?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1187592042_1/NEW-RV-Boat-font-b-Marine-b-font-font-b-Fuse-b-font-font-b-Block.jpg
-
i like that! alot.
-
These power buses are awesome. I just bought a Blue Marine one that also has a provision for a grounding bus.
But where is the best spot to plug into power? I'm going to run mine through a moderately high amp relay so that my new accessory circuit is triggered by ignition power. Should the main power come straight off the battery or should I plug into the junction on the firewall so that the alternator will see the load & compensate? Or does it even matter?
-
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1187592042_1/NEW-RV-Boat-font-b-Marine-b-font-font-b-Fuse-b-font-font-b-Block.jpg
i know my next purchase
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I used an aux panel with several batt hot and multiple ign hot circuits. Not sure of the brand at the moment, maybe painless. The ign hot circuits are activated from the main fuse panel thru a built in relay and a 4 amp fuse on the aux panel.
Main power comes from an additional IIRC 12 or maybe 10 gauge wire from the firewall junction thru a 30 amp breaker to the aux panel.
I also increased the wire size from the starter to the junction block.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
this is what i used Barrier Terminal Block
(http://www.newark.com/productimages/standard/en_US/4302272.jpg)
i ran one hot wire to the top terminal then ran a jumper to each terminal below that. idk how safe it was but the things that used power wouldnt be at the same time if they did it was only 2 at a time so the amp draw wasnt that high. i had the power to the door popper control box and the relays for the door poppers, i cant remember what the others went to but it the poppers were the biggest thing on the block. dont get me wrong if i would of knew about the one that was posted above i would of opted for that but in a pinch and me being cheap this is what i came up with
-
If you need a number of IGN fuses you can switch battery power, through a 60A Maxi-Fuse, to one of those sub panels using a SPST 70Amp F7 "Maxi" ISO relay triggered off the ignition.
The F7 Maxi ISO is a 1" cube just like the more common F4 "Mini" ISO or "Bosch Automotive" type relays but the F7 has big 3/8" load terminals and 1/4" coil terminals.
http://www.farnell.com/cad/77304.pdf (http://www.farnell.com/cad/77304.pdf)