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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: Dirka on March 31, 2015, 10:02:12 pm
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I'm looking to do some overhauling of my steering and suspension here soon.
I'd like to beef up my suspension a bit. I currently have 1977 K10 1/2T. Is there any problems I may run into putting 3/4T leaf springs in place of the 1/2T? I'm thinking 6 leaf in rear and 2 leaf in front? I don't have a lift but I am running 31.5 X 10.5 wheel/tire.
Thanks!
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the only difference in ½ and ¾ ton springs is the number of springs. so you will have no issues at all that i know of except when you go to remove the old ones and have new bolts and bushings ready so your not waiting on them
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There are 56" and 53" springs for 1/2T's, 3/4T up were all 56".
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a k10 will have the 52" while a k20 can have 52" or 56" but more than likely the 52" unless its a higher gvwr. but that being said couldnt you just remove a couple leafs from the ¾ ton pack and put them on a ½ ton pack?
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Irish wouldnt the center bolt holding them in be too short to add leafs. By the time you get the longer bolt it may have been easier to just put the 3/4 ton springs in.
look into adding the air bags helpers if you want more towing or hauling capacity.
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oh yeah def too short, but even if it wasnt i wouldnt reuse those bolts when they are cheap and you can even make them out of a regular grad 8 bolt. but the point i was making was if he has the 52" springs but his k20 is 56" he might be able to just take a couple springs from the ¾ ton and put them on the ½ ton. i dont think the helper springs size relates to the main spring.
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Quick question about making that center bolt. I'm swapping out a broken leaf with one from a donor truck, both 1/2-tons. Everything was so rusty though, the bolt was basically non-existent once I took the u-bolts off. How do you go about "making" a new one? Looks like the head of the bolt is in the riser block below the spring and will need to be drilled out. Both sides are basically that way, but only the one side needs a leaf replaced. Do the heads of the bolts need turned down round to fit in a round hole in the block? Could you just use an allen-head bolt that is round to begin with? Just tore into this thing last night and hadn't determined how this was supposed to look yet.
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What we always do is grab a grade 8 bolt put the threads in a drill and then use a grinding wheel. Turn the wheel on and use the drill to evenly rotate the bolt to make it round. You only have to take a little off, the points then a little more. I can see a alen bolt working but grade 8 bolts will be cheaper and you don't have to think about the head size being too small or being too weak due to the Allen key hole in the center.
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Most auto parts stores can get the center pin bolt
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