73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: Chisholmcody on May 09, 2015, 04:00:42 pm
-
The other day my steering started to make a squeaking noise when turning while sitting still. So naturally I grease all of the ball joints, tie rods, ect but then I get to the power steering fluid. It was low. So I fill it back to full and start Turing the wheels to work in all of the new grease and fluids. The. I look down and see a big puddle of fluid coming from the pitman arm as seen in the pics.
So now here comes the question since the fluid is leaking from the gearbox do I buy the seal kit and replace the seals for 44$ ish dollars or do I buy the hole gear box from napa for a little over 100$? And how hard is it to change the gear box, any tips and tricks?(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/09/832ba9ceb14e94720e3780c5139c2f42.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/09/1f0e11dc690e3edc6f45a8020a7bf868.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I've done a gearbox swap. The only tricky thing is the ragjoint. Also, recommend to use a flare nut wrench as to not strip the oil lines. They make steering boxes that the turning ratio is different. I don't know how to describe it, but basically you will make a turn with less turns. With the OEM gearboxes, you have to make more turns with steering wheel to achieve the same amount of wheel turn. Hope that makes sense. I can't speak with experience about these gearboxes, but if I could do it again, I would try these (found out about them afterwards).
-
I would replace the steering gear. Rebuilding requires special tools, not easy and yours is probably well worn.
I replaced mine with a NAPA rebuild and it made a huge difference removing steering slop. The suggestion to buy a quick ratio gear / box is a good one but be aware they are expensive.
Some tips:
Plan to replace or rebuild the rag joint while you are at it.
Plan to install an in-line filter in the return line. Cheap insurance.
Disassemble the two rag joint nuts and bolts and separate the rag joint.
Remove the pressure and return line clamp on the frame rail.
Remove the pressure and return lines from the steering gear. The suggestion to use line/flare wrenches is solid.
Remove the drag link from the pitman arm. I find it easier during reassembly than leaving it attached.
Carefully check the frame rail for cracks after you remove the steering gear.
Flush the pump and lines well or replace with new parts as I did since my power steering fluid was cooked.
The new steering gear will be centered out of the box. Be careful not to rotate the input shaft during reassembly.
Resist the urge to pound the pitman arm onto output shaft. You may need to spread it a bit first.
EDIT: Disregard the tip above. I just noticed your pitman arm is not the split clamp type.
Don't overlook the new o-rings for the pressure and return lines.
Carefully start the pressure and return line fittings by hand they are very easy to cross thread that is why I suggest removing the clamp.
Follow the instructions for bleeding the system included with the NAPA steering gear.
-
I had a leak in same area about 6 months ago. After talking to my technician they told me to added some lucas power steering stop leak instead of regular fluid. I did and my leak stopped. No more puddles underneath steering box. Amazing stuff.
-
Thanks for all of the info guys hopefully I put it to good use when installing my new one
And what do you guys recommend brand wise for p/s fluid?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
GM Dexron 6 Automatic Transmission fluid.
-
Just a question why tranny fluid?
And does any one have a napa part number for a new rag joint or rebuild kit?
-
I had a leak in same area about 6 months ago. After talking to my technician they told me to added some lucas power steering stop leak instead of regular fluid. I did and my leak stopped. No more puddles underneath steering box. Amazing stuff.
This at best should be only a temporary fix and the fact your "technician" told you this should be shot.
Fix it right the first time or don't do it at all.
-
I had a leak in same area about 6 months ago. After talking to my technician they told me to added some lucas power steering stop leak instead of regular fluid. I did and my leak stopped. No more puddles underneath steering box. Amazing stuff.
This at best should be only a temporary fix and the fact your "technician" told you this should be shot.
Fix it right the first time or don't do it at all.
it is a temporary fix
It's just really really thick oil
So it doesn't leak as bad
Check your frame very very closely with a bright light for cracks after you remove the box and dont be surprised if you find some
Be prepared to shell out some more $$ to repair them
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
......And does any one have a napa part number for a new rag joint or rebuild kit?
The slang term "Rag Joint" is also known as a "Steering Coupler or Coupling". Maybe that will help with your search.
They can be found at all major brick and mortar and online sources.
Check your frame very very closely with a bright light for cracks after you remove the box and dont be surprised if you find some
Be prepared to shell out some more $$ to repair them
Exactly. I mentioned the same in post #3, tip #7 above.
-
If I do find cracks do I just drop a bead over them ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for all of the info guys hopefully I put it to good use when installing my new one
And what do you guys recommend brand wise for p/s fluid?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Royal Purple PS Fluid. Relatively speaking, it's pricey....but it is the best. Get it at ant PB's retail shop. (The brand makes gear oil too, best for the rear pumpkin....no additives needed if you use this brand's gear oil......racers win races with it)
If you don't want to pony up the cash, fill your PS pump/system with 50% any brand PS fluid and 50% ATF.....the ATF thins the PS fluid which is generally thick, slower moving, holds heat longer, and puts unnecessary stresses on the OEM gearbox.
This recommendation is particularly applicable to Hydroboost brake systems.
-
Ok thanks for the info!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
If I do find cracks do I just drop a bead over them ?
IF you discover cracks in the frame, read the thread "86 chevy 2wd frame cracks (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=24376.msg203717#msg203717)."
-
Got the new one in on Friday all went well. Thanks for all the help!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Got the new one in on Friday all went well. Thanks for all the help!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad to hear it.
Did you replace the rag joint also?
-
No the rag joint ended up being in pretty good shape
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Welding a cracked or broken vehicle frame should be performed only by someone who is suitably experienced with this type of repair. The consequences of a poor repair can be catastrophic!
Make sure you find the very end of the cracks and drill 1/6" to 1/8" through-holes to stop the cracks from propagating any further. "V" the cracks and weld for complete penetration, then grind/sand the welds down to the original height of the surrounding steel. When your done, both sides of the frame should appear as though it was never damaged.
You absolutely should go the extra step of stabilizing the gearbox mounting. If you haven't installed taller/wider steer tires and you're not running a big block, the bolt-on brace kit from AutoFab may be adequate with no further investment needed. You can always call AutoFab and question them.
If you decide to use a weld-on reinforcement plate, Warrior is not the only company to market a plate - and, yes, the plates are preformed. However, the plate should fit the frame like a glove beneath the steering gear, so as not to interfere with gearbox mounting (there's very little spare room around the gearbox mounting bosses - proper fit is crucial). Nearly all available repair plates will need some hammer work to make them fit correctly. I cannot over stress the need to check the fit and clearance of the plate between the gearbox and frame, carefully. In addition, before the plate is welded on, it should be sandwiched between the gearbox and the frame rail, with the gearbox bolts torqued to spec; this ensures the frame takes the shape of the gearbox housing to avoid distortion of the steering gear case. Remember, by installing a plate you will be almost doubling the thickness of the frame in this area, making the frame far more rigid.
I think the ultimate repair, though unnecessary for many and subject to opinion, is to install both kits.
as a welder by trade i 100% completely agree with this statement, i dont think welding is necessary (only the plate) but if done thats how youre supposed to do it.