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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: rugbychevyguy on August 07, 2015, 10:26:19 am
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1. I have gone through 2 sets of speedo gears in 2 months. Is it just crappy manufacturing or is there something when installing them i did wrong?
2. I want to get new saddle tanks for my 84 k10 diesel, does it really matter if i get plastic or steel?
3. My air compressor keeps clicking on and off, is that something i should be worried about?
Any suggestions and answers would be great
Thank you,
Colton
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
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1. I have gone through 2 sets of speedo gears in 2 months. Is it just crappy manufacturing or is there something when installing them i did wrong?
2. I want to get new saddle tanks for my 84 k10 diesel, does it really matter if i get plastic or steel?
3. My air compressor keeps clicking on and off, is that something i should be worried about?
Any suggestions and answers would be great
Thank you,
Colton
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
#1 it is possible you are putting it in a bind when you install it, pictures of the failure would be helpful
#2 doesn't matter, I prefer the poly tanks, they won't rust on you.
#3 AC compressor? It will cycle on and off normally. If the AC gets cold and doesn't freeze up it is OK. If it cycles fast it could be low in charge (freon)
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1. I have gone through 2 sets of speedo gears in 2 months. Is it just crappy manufacturing or is there something when installing them i did wrong?
2. I want to get new saddle tanks for my 84 k10 diesel, does it really matter if i get plastic or steel?
3. My air compressor keeps clicking on and off, is that something i should be worried about?
Any suggestions and answers would be great
Thank you,
Colton
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
#1 it is possible you are putting it in a bind when you install it, pictures of the failure would be helpful
#2 doesn't matter, I prefer the poly tanks, they won't rust on you.
#3 AC compressor? It will cycle on and off normally. If the AC gets cold and doesn't freeze up it is OK. If it cycles fast it could be low in charge (freon)
How do i be sure not to intall it where there is a bind? I haven't taken them out again so i don't have any pictures yet, i just know that that's what it has to be.
Do you know of a place to purchase the poly tanks for a good price or are they all going to be over 150?
Thank you very much for the help
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1, do you have the correct speedo gear housing there are 1 types, I broke a brand new gear in 2 days cuz I had the wrong housing.
2, I prefer steel, harder to vandalize.
3, the system could be reaching head pressures that are too high because it's over charged so it's cycles the compressor on and off to drop the pressure OR there is inadequate air flow thru the radiator and fan so the pressure builds and cycles on and off to drop the pressure OR the cycling switch is malfunctioning and making it click on and off alot.
They should cycle on and off but not constantly or alot or multiple times in a row.
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I purchased my poly tank several years ago from JC Whitney, I bought a tank, straps and a new sender but don't remember the cost. In retrospect the aftermarket sender is junk. It has hung up a few times around 1/2 tank. I kept good records so I knew it should have been lower than that. Sure enough it was, took 17 gallons to top it off.
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Common causes of "bouncy" speedometer needles (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=24858.0) might help with the speedometer gear issue. The driven gear support bushings in automatic transmissions are selectively offset to compensate for various driven gear diameters (number of teeth). If the offset is too great for the existing driven gear or the support bushing is excessively worn, the drive and driven gears may not mesh correctly and cause premature wear of both gears. Another possibility is a binding speedometer cable or ratio adapter. Disconnect the cable from the back of the speedometer head and from the support bushing at the transmission. If the truck has a ratio adapter, leave it attached to the cable. Spin the cable (and ratio adapter) using your fingers - they should rotate freely with little resistance and no binding. Lubricate or replace as needed.