73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: philo_beddoe on September 01, 2015, 10:13:53 pm
-
Whats involved in changing the oil pan gasket? I have a feeling it's not like changing the valve cover gaskets,,Quick and easy....
-
Then you will feel wrong haha Just kidding. It's pretty easy. Only 4 questions that are important.
1 automatic or manual trans?
2 2wd or 4wd?
3 do you have an exhaust cross over pipe near the oil pan?
4 big block or small block? I don't think this is actually important but I was wondering.
It's actually pretty easy. Pending the answers to the questions, you drop the pan, clean surfaces, new gasket, put it all back together. I'll wait for your answers so I can give the best info I can.
-
Just an example. I have a 350/350 C10 that required to jack up the engine a little to clear the pan under the oil pump and over the front cross member. Of course, had to take bolts out for motor mount and watch out for the distributor vs. firewall.
-
Strange. I didn't have to do any of that. First time I did it I had a 350/350 setup, now I have a 350/4L60 setup and both were as simple as dropping the pan. Didn't have to do any engine shifting or lifting
-
Ok, automatic, 2wd, no crossover, small block 305.
-
Ok, automatic, 2wd, no crossover, small block 305.
Easy peasy puddin n pie!
You will need to remove the torque converter/flexplate cover, drain oil, remove the bolts for oil pan, remove oil pan, clean oil pan sealing surfaces, clean sealing surfaces on block, install new gasket to pan, reinstall oil pan and 4 corner pan bolts frst, reinstall the rest of the side bolts for pan, torque to spec, reinstall drain plug, fill with oil. Start engine, let run, drive and recheck for leaks. If all is ok, reinstall torque converter/flexplate cover. That's it step-by-step wise.
The 2 things you will have 2 decide on:
1, whether or not you want to put rtv silicone in the 4 corners of the front and rear main cap humps. This is optional, some high recommend it, others highly recommend no sealant at all anywhere on the gasket and others recommend a small light bead of rtv sealer all the way around.
2 measuring your oil pan so you get the right size gasket. There are 2 different front and rear main seal hump heights.
-
This would also be a good time to replace the rear main seal and oil pump coupler which is included with Fel-Pro rear main seals.
I used a Fel-Pro one piece blue oil pan gasket using the included "snap ups" (brilliant), followed the instructions using a little Permatex Ultra Black where required and no more leaks.
-
This would also be a good time to replace the rear main seal and oil pump coupler which is included with Fel-Pro rear main seals.
I used a Fel-Pro one piece blue oil pan gasket using the included "snap ups" (brilliant), followed the instructions using a little Permatex Ultra Black where required and no more leaks.
This info is solid.
-
Sounds like a plan. Will get started asap! And thanks! I hope others will see these instructions too. I will certainly post results.
-
Your welcome.
-
Sounds like a plan. Will get started asap! And thanks! I hope others will see these instructions too. I will certainly post results.
How'd it go?
I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend. I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece. Planning to use the Permatex also.
I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not. I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it. I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install. Should replace the oil pump also?
Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan? Thanks
-
Sounds like a plan. Will get started asap! And thanks! I hope others will see these instructions too. I will certainly post results.
How'd it go?
I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend. I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece. Planning to use the Permatex also.
I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not. I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it. I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install. Should replace the oil pump also?
Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan? Thanks
Oh, Uhhh, well, we ended up replacing entire engine with a new gm crate 350. So technically it went great. Seriously though, I encountered a nasty engine vibe from the crank, plus the cam was getting worn and tired. I had Vile do the job and no the engine literally purrs, smooth as butter. couldn't be happier.
-
If i could ask a few related questions:
1) If you're using a 1-piece gasket, then you DON'T need the rubber hump piece that normally fits inside the timing cover?
2) If you're using the 1-piece blue rubber gasket then you DON'T need ANY silicone on the gasket itself or on the block or pan? Yes, i know you still need it in the four corners, but the service manual says nothing about putting it on the gasket, block or pan. This is for an 86 and later block btw.
a) For the four corners, what brand rtv would you recommend?
Sounds like a plan. Will get started asap! And thanks! I hope others will see these instructions too. I will certainly post results.
How'd it go?
I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend. I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece. Planning to use the Permatex also.
I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not. I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it. I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install. Should replace the oil pump also?
Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan? Thanks
It's probably too late, but for future reference on the topic of the oil pump, i have to put one in too (came with the engine but was not installed), the papers that came with the engine say:
1) Get the GM Engine preluber part# J 45299, but that's about $350, so i'm not doing it.
2) or get an oil pump primer shaft and use drill. This is more like it as you can get them for $20-$50.
"When the first two methods are not available, follow this procedure to pre-lube the engine:"
They say to disable spark and fuel and crank the engine for a total of 2 minutes after normal oil pressure is reached. But not 2 minutes continuously as the starter really can't go for more than 30 seconds at a time. And it needs to cool off for about 2mins for each 30 second burst.
Just my opinion, that if you've got good oil pressure then don't mess with the pump. They are pretty simple and reliable, but that is just my opinion.
Normally, i think you would use and engine crane to lift the engine to clear the crossmember.
-
P.S.
If you have an LS engine or an engine that doesn't use a distributor or you like to build things, read this:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/hrdp-1106-pit-stop/
-
This post must be from a year ago. I ended up putting in a crate gm 350. Best idea ever!
-
So if you're using a one piece gasket, then you DONT need the rubber hump that fits in the timing cover?
-
So if you're using a one piece gasket, then you DONT need the rubber hump that fits in the timing cover?
OK, nevermind. You don't use it if you're using the one piece oil pan gasket.
-
Now about the one piece gasket:
Fel-pro says not to use ANY silicone sealer on the block, gasket or pan EXCEPT at the four corners of the pan. The factory service manual says only to use a little rtv at the 4 corners of the pan only----not any on the block or gasket.
Where exactly to put the RTV/silicone? Pics?
i've seen some people on the 'Tube using the gasket with no sealant whatsoever---even in the corners. And no leaks apparently.
-
Right or wrong I used just a dab at the corners of the block just because it looked like a good idea.
That was years ago and never a leak even after dropping the pan once.
Problem with RTV is using too much along with gaskets, specially cork.
-
Use the Right Stuff RTV along the end seals and across the corners. All you need is a small bead, wipe excess away with your finger.
-
Why rtv? Whats the primary function of the gasket?
-
Because the gasket alone cannot adequately account for variations and tolerances between the materials whereas the RTV can fill the void with the elasticity needed for extreme temperature changes. Remember this is not a rigid flange where you can assure clamping force is always applied through the stretch of the bolt.. rather think of it as a landscape composed of different terrain that requires a tight seal from extreme cold to extreme hot. Now if you never want to remove your oil pan without destroying it then you would use the gasket.
-
Understood.
-
So, where to put the RTV?
i wish the directions and service manual and folks in general would be more detailed. If a surgery was going to be performed, they wouldn't say, "just cut near the ribs...." Why should cars be any different?
So, felpro is saying to put "a small amount of RTV to each of the 4 corners on the block side of the gasket."
The service manual says to put " A small amount of RTV sealant (GM part number 1052751 or equivalent) to the front and rear
corners of the oil pan."
After putting the 1 piece gasket on both the block and pan, it appears that the only place it could leak would be the rear at these two points:
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/sencraig/1397_zpswd4fqlyc.jpg)
But basically what is meant by the "corners of the pan?"
For the front seal, the gasket is actually pretty good and it appears that the only place it might leak would be here:
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/sencraig/1392_zpsvpmqxuae.jpg)
And for the rear, this looks like a possible leak point:
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/sencraig/1393.jpg)
i've also seen someone on the 'Tube using no sealant whatsover and getting no leaks. Will try to post the link.
-
if im using rtv on a gasket its only to hold it in place while its being assembled. I would apply it to each corner of the pan and let it get tacky then place the gasket on with the bolt holes lined up and let it sit for a few minutes. This is how I would do it vile might do it one way the book may say one way and the direction may say another. If in doubt I would follow the direction from the gasket cause it would be the most up to date instructions with research behind it
-
If your using the one piece felpro, It comes with the plastic stud retainers that screw in the block to hold the gasket up while you install the pan.
Very nice.
Just a very light transparent smear of RTV on the surface when installing gaskets when needed, otherwise none at all.