73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: p7387 on October 13, 2015, 04:33:46 pm
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87 short fleet 2wd
i will be getting around to replacing the radiator, will any brand be ok?
my local supplier had "APD" brand.
while i am at it i will be replacing the upper/lower hoses, heating hoses and thermostat
any other ideas?
thanks
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Waterpump if you haven't done it in a while. Need a radiator in my 84 as well...
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...and cap.
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any brand ok
"APD" ?
also the supplier said he had two choices
28.25" x 17" (or 19")
i need to go measure
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I would ask myself these questions.....
Is you current radiator original?
Is it leaking? If so where?
How many cores in your current radiator vs. the new one?
Do you have air conditioning and or an automatic transmission?
How about having your current radiator rebuilt?
If you have your radiator re-cored you know it will fit and should last decades.
I replaced my original brass radiator with an aluminum / plastic one with fewer cores and it works fine
however I kept my original and will someday have it rebuilt.
Final thought...
Before you replace your radiator remove the thermostat, reinstall the neck without the thermostat and while running the engine flush, flush, flush.
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Rows, not cores. A 3 "Core" radiator means the core has 3 rows etc
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Rows, not cores. A 3 "Core" radiator means the core has 3 rows etc
Correct.
Thanks for the clarification.
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the radiator appears to be original
the specific leak is where the upper heater hose inserts into the radiator
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1987 r10 2wd 305 motor auto
the part store is showing two options for the radiator, one listed at 17" and one at 19"
which is the correct option?
i measured the height of the original to be 19-20", (i think its the original rad)
thanks
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If it were mine I would take your original radiator to a radiator shop and get a price it have it repaired.
If the core is clean and leak free and only the neck is leaking at the tank they may be able to fix it while you wait.
A good radiator shop will inspect, pressurize and submerge the radiator in a tank of water and advise you what you have.
You may find it will cost less to repair vs. new and there will be no questions regarding fitment and cooling capacity.
Wish I had followed my own advise before I replaced mine. :)
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it could be leaking from a bad or loose hose clamp or are you sure its rad?
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it could be leaking from a bad or loose hose clamp or are you sure its rad?
OUCH! (I just slapped myself on the forehead).
Irish is correct check the obvious / easy stuff first.
Also you can borrow a pressure test kit from the chain auto parts stores.
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no its clearly leaking from the joint where the heater hose attaches
i already tried a quick fix with jb weld but no luck
it looks original, its brass
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Jb should of done it. It's either it was applied right or it missed the hole
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what about the two size options?
28-1/4 IN X 17 IN core
or
28-1/4" x 19-3/16" x 1-1/4"
thanks
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p7387 two things.
1. we all try to help each other the cheapest way without just trowing parts at our trucks. jb weld can keep a engine thats had a rod through the side running. if it doesnt hold then something else had a effect
2. measure your old one and go from there
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I am finding measuring don't match with any on line for my 84. Autozone lists 3 while Advanced Auto only lists 2. I'd like to know what they measure when posting what they offer. I am leaning toward having mine re-cored but need to search out the local area for an old school shop. Ebay has some decent prices on all aluminum ones but again sizes are all over the map...
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my specific leak is around the neck seam for the upper radiator hose, very subtle but its there.
i prepped the area carefully and applied it carefully. while i have had success with jb weld in other cases i have never had a successful result when the crack is around the "neck" area in a radiator.
i am not opposed to having it repaired by a knowledgeable shop but i dont think its time or cost effective when a new rad is about $100-$110
as zieg said it hard to find a definitive part choice when they list 2 sizes for the same vehicle
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I had a tank come loose on my "Taiwan" rad in my truck. I took it to the local rad shop to see if it could be fixed.
CDN pricing:
$160 to fix the tank
$100-200 for a basic new rad
$300 for a new rad, same 3-row core (they said this wasn't enough rad for the cammed, high compression motor in my truck)
$500 for a high-density 4-row core using my old tanks.
Find out your pricing, and weigh your options. I wasn't too keen on paying $160 to fix a tank, only to potentially have the other tank come off later.
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Solder it
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Exactly what I was thinking. That shouldn't be hard to braze at all and the rod is super cheap (<$8 at HD).
Another possibility is something that has stymied me in the past. The bulbed hard line on the tank likes to corrode right where the hose clamp tightens around it. When the corrosion bubbles up enough, it allows coolant to seep past, no matter how hard you tighten the clamp. I had to remove the hose, then chisel and steel wool the corrosion off the hard line bulb connector. That seems to have fixed the worst of my leaking.
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I can try soldering
Will regular plumbing solder and flux for copper pipe do along with a basic propane torch?
Or will I need a different torch and materials
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Just like you would fix a copper pipe in your house, clean the area, apply flux, heat, solder, clean solder joint.
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Mine was too far gone to fix. One of the tank was bulging and would eventually spit. I did buy an aluminum/plastic and it was a perfect fit. I put a new waterpump on it while I was in there. No problems on a 287 mile trip back to Indiana yesterday.
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What is the best brand, money no object?
What are some other good brands, money an object?
i've had good results with the brand carried by Advance auto, but just checking for alternatives.
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I would worry less about brand, and talk to your local rad shop. They can custom build, and it will be hand-built ~for~ you, and tested, and easy warranty if something goes wrong.