73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: philo_beddoe on November 20, 2015, 10:08:03 am
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Any suggestions on how to connect? Cut in half and use a flex tube! All i can think of, this engine came with a two barrel and now its a four bbl.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/1bdf9652b678ac5d6a32caead392ddc3.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/2b92dad4ca175aebe38fa374726c3897.jpg)
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The tube is installed upside-down...
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No sir, i tried the other way. Both ends will fit the way i have it. But the air clnr is too far over. I think if i cut it in half and put a metal flex in the middle it'l go. And i cant move the air clnr to the left, then everything else will not align.
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This is why most of those tubes are flexible metal for. Different air cleaners, carbs, intakes etc can make things sit in completely different places.
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Wrong air cleaner for that tube. Your heater hoses are too short and should lay on the fender well btw
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Ya know zieg you right!! Never really noticed, thanks. Gonna fix those hoses today, get a flex tube and make this thing work. And good point enaberif.
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I thought it was the wrong air clnr too, but the snorkel lines up perfect to the unit on the grill, that big 4 inch adapter piece. Oh well,
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No sir, i tried the other way. Both ends will fit the way i have it. But the air clnr is too far over. I think if i cut it in half and put a metal flex in the middle it'l go. And i cant move the air clnr to the left, then everything else will not align.
I know, I was kidding.
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Oh, gotcha...
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Ok, hows this (zieg)?(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/21/c2669558c321349f2b5b0d907dcf277c.jpg)
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Ok, hows this (zieg)?(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/21/c2669558c321349f2b5b0d907dcf277c.jpg)
Awesome, I approve and your warm ups will be more pleasant for sure
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Thanks! I know your tough, your approval means a lot!! I had to cut the black tube in half (painted with high heat) at both end the black tube goes deep into the flex. I already tried starting cold, warms up fast!! Kicks down to normal idle in about a minute. Love it. Next! Wait, next was the heater hoses, done! Next!!
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Determination!!!!!
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
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You know it, was bored for a few minutes today so i painted the flex tube, added a hose clamp, put a little RTV under the edge of the valve cover because of a stupid tiny oil drip leak thats been buggin me, and coated the underside of the truck. These trucks are a full time hobby, never ends!!!
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Fix the valve cover correctly and it won't leak :P Its lack of prep work that makes those things leak and lack of proper equipment.
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I know, i had a mechanic replace with oem covers when he did my valve seals, leaked and then leaked again under warranty. Still leaks in one little spot on pass side firewall end of valve c., lets see if the rtv holds up. If not still under warranty.
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You need felpro blue gaskets and t-handlers and spreader bars. Nothing else will fix those leaks.
Surfaces on the head needs to be cleaned spotless with acetone and inside flanges of valve covers cleaned with acetone and then roughed up.
Don't do this it will always leak.
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I modified mine to fit my tall valve covers and wherever my air filter housing ended up on the Performer intake. I just used old 1-1/2" header tubes to move things around.
(http://gwellwood.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DSC03374s.jpg)
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Before the oem, there were edelbrock, which i removed and painted black, used reg felpro gaskets with plain oem tabs to hold down and no leaks. I cleaned the gm valve covers spotless. Anyway, the drivers side is good. Perhaps a little warp to it?
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I modified mine to fit my tall valve covers and wherever my air filter housing ended up on the Performer intake. I just used old 1-1/2" header tubes to move things around.
(http://gwellwood.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DSC03374s.jpg)
Yup, that's a good setup skinny...
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Update, used a little bead of rtv under edge of valve cover, no leak, not a drop!!