73-87chevytrucks.com
General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: zieg85 on December 27, 2015, 04:51:19 pm
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I just picked up a truck to run back an forth between my 2 places (roughly 300 mile one way). I bought this 2001 2500HD with a 6.0L 5 speed standard yesterday and had no problems driving it the 120 miles home. Today I drive it to my brothers house to change the tires and now it barely idles and dies pretty often. No check engine light but now the tach shows it idling around 400 rpms where yesterday it was 6-700. I was looking for a vacuum line that may have come loose but could not find any.
Anyone got any suggestions??? Thanks in advance. It does not have AC BTW, just a plain old work truck...
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cant help you but we might have to start a new board just for these "new" trucks lol. i was kind of surprised when i went to check the gas millage on my 02 and its getting mid 14s. my crew cab gets better than that
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i think i need more power lol but...... its the wifes truck
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i think i need more power lol but...... its the wifes truck
About 3 years ago I looked at a 99, same drivetrain. It was a dog for power. This one moves rather nicely IMO. Ole blue (1984 C10) is down at the new place and the knock I only heard, I now feel in the clutch pedal so it is not going far.
I don't hear any vacuum leaks but it should idle higher than 400 rpm
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No check engine light but now the tach shows it idling around 400 rpms where yesterday it was 6-700.
A similar issue occurred with our '01 Tahoe several years ago. Took it to the dealer and was diagnosed as carbon buildup in the intake/throttle body, they also flashed and updated the computer at that time. No troubles since then.
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Thanks Jason S for the reply, that might be all it is. Just sucks that it would happen the 2nd day I got it and it only has 121K miles
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your truck looks more of a truck than my truck lol. i need fender flares and maybe make a new bumper
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Carbon build up on the throttle body is completely normal, it happens to all vehicles, carb or efi, it's the black stuff that turns gold colored butterflies in the carb or bore of a throttle body black. Fuel injection services are recommended every 30 thousand miles. This includes flushing the injectors, add a cleaner to the fuel tank and clean the throttle body and relearn the idle. This can be done at home.
Simply remove the intake duct from the throttle body, using throttle body plate and bore cleaner and a red shop rag, spray the cleaner on the butterfly and the rag, scrub both sides of the butterfly until it is as clean as you can get it, do the same to the bore of the throttle body. The throttle body should be aluminum color when clean and the butterfly plate gold colored. When both are clean, reattach the intake duct, start the engine. It will have a high idle, to learn the idle, drive the vehicle for at least 5 or 6 miles coming to numerous full stops allowing the engine to return to idle before starting off again. Do this alot, it's going to relearn the idle speed. If the idle doesn't relearn after this operation. Disconnect both battery cables, touch the cable ends together for about a minute. Then let it sit for another 5 to 10 minutes with the battery still disconnected. After the time has passed, reconnect the battery, restart the engine and drive it again for another 5 or 6 miles again making numerous full stops to idle. Then add your choice of quality fuel treatment to the fuel tank. Following the instructions of course. I recommend using Standadyne fuel system treatment for gasoline engines or fuel system cleaner and throttle body cleaner from BG Cemicals, preferably BG Chemicals. We use BG products at work and they are very good. The fuel additive is called BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner and the throttle body cleaner is called BG Throttle Body & Intake Cleaner.
Or you can take it to a dealer. Just a fuel injection service is relatively inexpensive.
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Clean the throttle plate, the IAC motor, and the IAC motor passages. Use carburetor cleaner to clean it all off. You will have to take the IAC motor out of the intake to do it right. It will most likely be covered in gooey black slimy carbon.
If cleaning all of that doesn't fix it you may need a TPS (throttle position sensor).
I recently had to replace the TPS on my wife's 2001 2500HD. Hers has a 6.0L engine as well. However her issue was a high idle. Like 900~950 RPMs.
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Awesome Gents!!!! Thanks a bunch!
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one common problem that im seeing is the fuel pressure regulator. idk if it could cause your problems but mine will take some time to start up when cold and every once in a while i smell gas coming from the engine bay
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the way i understand to test is by unplugging the vacuum line and if fuel comes out then the regulator is bad. 55-62 psi
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Clean the throttle plate, the IAC motor, and the IAC motor passages. Use carburetor cleaner to clean it all off. You will have to take the IAC motor out of the intake to do it right. It will most likely be covered in gooey black slimy carbon.
If cleaning all of that doesn't fix it you may need a TPS (throttle position sensor).
I recently had to replace the TPS on my wife's 2001 2500HD. Hers has a 6.0L engine as well. However her issue was a high idle. Like 900~950 RPMs.
You only have to do this if there is an issue with it or the ECM is setting a code for it. If it's not then, don't worry about the IAC. We don't see many problems with those much at all.
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one common problem that im seeing is the fuel pressure regulator. idk if it could cause your problems but mine will take some time to start up when cold and every once in a while i smell gas coming from the engine bay
We don't see much of this either very much. Again, only of the failure conditions exist.
For your concerns, we see dirty throttle bodies more than anything and we see them all the time. It's the best place to start and the conditions of a dirty throttle body match your complaint.
That is the first place you should start.
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Any update ?
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Any update ?
Emailed the PO. He said it happened once in a while and would clear itself. I am more at peace that I have an idea of what it is and I will deal with it down where my tools are at. I am still trying to return home from the Christmas holiday back in Indiana but we had real bad weather which put us a day or 2 behind.
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Based on what you just said, it sounds typical of a throttle body that is beginning to become overly coked up. No problem, deal with it when you can. Good luck catching back up to schedule.
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Went to start it today, no idle at first. Had to jazz the go pedal for about a minute till it would run on its own, been fine all day, idling about 600 rpm. Fingers crossed, ready to head 300 miles with her tomorrow...
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I'de be willing to bet more than anything it's that throttle body. It's probably pretty coked up if it's never been cleaned.
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Awesome trouble free ride home. That is one comfortable riding/driving truck!!!
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i cleaned my maf and my throttle body. seams to run a little better, dont think i gained any mpgs might of even lost some lol. this thing gets worse millage than my 94 with the 4.3. hows yours working out?
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i cleaned my maf and my throttle body. seams to run a little better, dont think i gained any mpgs might of even lost some lol. this thing gets worse millage than my 94 with the 4.3. hows yours working out?
Can't drive it with my latest situation... Have no idea on the MPG since it only has about 300 miles on the tank.
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300 miles and no fill up? mine has 25 gal tank im getting about 14
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300 miles and no fill up? mine has 25 gal tank im getting about 14
Thinking this one has a 34 gallon tank. The previous owner said it would get 15-17 without a trailer behind it..
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i dont know why gm would even put a little engine in a truck when you can have a bigger one with more power and better mpgs. its like selling false hopes cause you know someone is going to look at the 4.8 and think "this engine is the best of both worlds and should get better millage than the 6.0"
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mVlu0WH_NhHD3sqnIDVS4hCkR9MIQ2Q92MHhmjHqEO5Et8o_cUqrtN18UIPmAq0CkhaMnmc9jB24TF_T6Pkq90lgikCUtoW18v65d2rdikdml30-qJ6-wtUpPfH-o_bBzoT3iXQ85HJpFY2T5AtSr5j2f9iyper1XFu8UnxoonqMEbTT-Dgr08p94jJoXpzthy_vJrK4MPH-XAdsj7RtTWocrCF1HEDK1p8VyO8-sufH0xhV2syG9J6fq2KbsSfrGv9TkK3QTiooVzYwEZbjrvOxcUT_TdFw_wsgRdc9Mma7ceYB8ICZYGOVxhohXH9wafX6Jm8KSThvX2UTXgzGPZ14Qbp8N1r7N1CVoAXFQXy1RjtJ1CO5LQF3baN_gRDTnpF40RRI53OSCgho0QkkV4vqEOVqZnFQWBdY0O4uXCCcJcKBaqrvoI0VhcurNtm24ZdDsx8wP1z0Re3XeSBxip8C_u5yFk5h4_ehKEWAmVC00EEMUuhoZaSy7PfjENR91bm1hyo4DbYZ-MYoBrEvR9sxjgl28UX-NceGW9bmvvo-7K1zRtZkv0nUk7LctGbGuFMSOQ=w1140-h856-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9P14I5jUnH6IBkKBOnVgyfyg_8v4-77xuo-9bs60xD8w_nbH9U7fClFpXRf6AQtcEkYjsQrY45j2AtQwKuCfYq5pZ7pawpY_vPvGuMLBmcon37oBrh0nArlTbXm76N_KnlAaCuGfUnVVj_OQnJjj7U3GZ_dj2uWnn7ApFc54tqKncj4Lz8ADHP-A-IE0sCGysJvljVewCLdtN1cZucDQcR1n9QFSHmHXPPgBHisC6My8CeopS9FMswSYqnr5Tb0NdAkHtdemg_DdSwipPz88k-z6s9lUIiSuRRFrW8X67nzkcc-Ou-nXu0Uzgt73pMs9zl1FQm6yH-wvwxOKa-DqZZczStQ0UQRPKJ0MPkcQHSq44xzVGdeNELABHYZyara0d398G02-VD9b0TyLxDaL289TlKzHOHcYI7JTvbds_Db-hyC_ofl1FxedKkCGdEdKervqxkbsOfGG_AVNNXYCZzeDt0zJPaMepuU85-JHrN5-UmxjfWa-S4qogGbPtJxFZQtmHLYNY79JWwCYSjDvV5jnYA4xTbMEaiA7LHYfXGaUzhJUDRV7tVmw-JQQrpqn0wdXOw=w1140-h856-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C0dT7uUK3mJlTlqju-loIW7a_IHEdQ_4qsVn6BkKZXZZCUqxVzLEJDsJpO0MpMe0OUXleD3dG9QhMEdMZzHL0_pVFz8TlhL4qD3QVo4jdQVSjf4-rBnU_DtYvxL91iAw0sdZIPy2P0bF8kxwf8-tQ60htG1xtxp3nsGDT6x9jJJabkI_hasNis9FY6Q36udGrfsuR0gdWHxUgUEIKXr-70BPBSla2qRwywRiLsJiE5lbv3tKoJP5EVw_e9loJqjvfeOCEIjElD9jAs4J-XKVCw6FFkSct8XgYjp69HQ1RWIaOJTwjPTVsp5ZHap9nvizJFC56Q0Z7nYe9nuW4P8SvVQOJ5GPhJja2uAdttZCdFxxsv1ClSGYrj3k4_d1fCWfUKbA9e5lXPxOS2TyRQWJZJIKLeCaHNXVjoGWXMLzM7btxHcMWAiInAIU3LiSentpw1eXILtwJBiGljvGN-J-Q4tofv33otQ_gct5jIM8Yz1KybdCKFrN3s5Vcfp7iRD2zdX3mM5vvztM5YqTJVEsLULkjD5Isn7--Qb_7PanAhb9QsdEDmarSl6PII-LVKdqNJLz0Q=w1140-h856-no)
dont mean to hijack but i added fender flares to mine and she looks like a new truck (almost)
but hows yours been running?
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Been OK running but now that I know what it is and that it eventually clears itself I am not worried. Waiting on the UPS guy on a delivery from Crutchfield... It would be nice to have some tunes in the truck
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Those fender flares wouldn't happen to be doing double duty and covering up that dent in the left rear fender right at the top of the wheel well?
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lol yup. while i was looking at flares i saw the chrome ones but theyre only about 2" and wouldnt cover up the dent and rust on the other side. i was thinking about replacing the bed to get rid of it. but now after $50-$60 problem is fixed for now, may have to take them back off to patch the rust
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I knew it lol I could have bet money on it...
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300 miles and no fill up? mine has 25 gal tank im getting about 14
Filled it up today, 13.5 mpg. I'll see, going to do a 600 mile round trip next weekend, what it's hwy is.
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zieg something i just found out with my 02 chevy. check your brake lines, apparently from 99-07 gm used some poor brake lines that had some bad coating that will lead to premature failure. since GMs front and rear lines use two different lines for the front and rear they feel there shouldnt be a recall. gm offers prebent brake lines but a full repair can cost around 600-800
(TSB) 13-05-22-001
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Irish, good call on the brake lines.
I just had the brake lines done on my 2000 crew cab. A local mechanic replaced all of the steel lines for $525.
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found the kit i need for $53 at walmart of all places. now take the time to do it myself or get a shop tp do it. i heard you have to jack the cab up and drop the tank for a 4.5 hr job.
this is my kit for my 02 ext cab 4x4 wb of 144
https://www.walmart.com/ip/46951574
kind of shocked walmart has it and its the lowest price
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll inspect them this weekend
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another heads up. dont get the pre bent brake lines. theyre a pain and i had to unbend some spots just to get them to run down the frame. go with a roll of line and put the fittings on yourself. i just spent all night and it took every bit of 5 hours and i didnt even put the rear on on cause it was in good shape. the only benefit about the pre bent ones is theyre the right length or pay a shop 300+ to do it.
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i dont know why gm would even put a little engine in a truck when you can have a bigger one with more power and better mpgs. its like selling false hopes cause you know someone is going to look at the 4.8 and think "this engine is the best of both worlds and should get better millage than the 6.0"
Not to get off topic on your post but Irish Alley the 4.8 wont get better mpgs then the 6.0? How do they compare to the 5.3?
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Purchased a set of aftermarket towing mirrors, nice quality for the money. Installation took less than 10 minutes.
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Those appear to be reproductions of the factory towing telescoping mirrors.
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Those appear to be reproductions of the factory towing telescoping mirrors.
May be, I see them all over. Had it out tonight and they don't vibrate or move so I am happy. $78 to the door...
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Where did you get them?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/252474715039?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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i thought mine were weak and thats why they wiggled. guess ill have to talk the wify about getting some tow mirrors lol
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Yep, those are just aftermarket reproductions of the GM ones, they look just about identical. The GM ones have been available on GM trucks since about 2003-2005 some where around there up until 2015 when they came out with the new versions on the brand new trucks.
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found the kit i need for $53 at walmart of all places. now take the time to do it myself or get a shop tp do it. i heard you have to jack the cab up and drop the tank for a 4.5 hr job.
this is my kit for my 02 ext cab 4x4 wb of 144
https://www.walmart.com/ip/46951574
kind of shocked walmart has it and its the lowest price
Well my line to the rear popped today... bummer. Need to figure out the correct AC delco set for my Standard cab longbed 2500HD
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hows the rest of your lines? im going to be honest, if i had to do it again i would buy a roll of brake line and some brake fittings. the only way you can get the kit to work is if you lift the body off the frame.
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came up with these numbers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-07-Chevy-GMC-2500HD-6-0-V8-Reg-Cab-97-Bed-Brake-Line-Kit-Stainless-/271581328208?hash=item3f3b823350:g:zykAAOSw6n5XrC-f&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-07-Chevy-GMC-2500HD-6-0-V8-Reg-Cab-97-Bed-Brake-Line-Kit-Steel-/271581327382?hash=item3f3b823016:g:ekQAAOSwV0RXrC9c&vxp=mtr
ones SS the other is just steel. the ac ones had a powder coasting of some type on them. these come with the front line cut in half so it can be installed. i thought about doing this but my buddy talked me out of it. and we put it in with some force. also think about how you will bleed the system, they say you need a computer to tell the abs to open up. i got away with just bleeding the lines up to the abs then opened the lines from the abs then went to the front and bleed the calipers. didnt have to do the rear cause i didnt change that line. went to a grassy field and with the dew that was on the ground i slammed on the brakes this triggered the abs. did this a few times but not sure if it was needed
heres the dorman
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Kit-Brake-Line-New-Chevy-22933189-Chevrolet-Silverado-2500-HD-919-139-/371602242659?hash=item5685383c63:g:B1sAAOSwV0RXtGHw&vxp=mtr
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hows the rest of your lines? im going to be honest, if i had to do it again i would buy a roll of brake line and some brake fittings. the only way you can get the kit to work is if you lift the body off the frame.
Broke right under the drivers seat. Haven't looked at the rest closely yet. To stinking hot and humid today to be doing much of anything outside. Just glad it broke today and not next week when I was planning to go to my Indiana home with my brand new car trailer to bring my 86 back down...
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rock auto for 58.89
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22933189,hydraulic+line,1820
ACDELCO 22933189
heres walmart on the "brake pipe kit"
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ACDelco-22933189-Brake-Pipe-Kit/47390205
i use quotes cause they show a picture of a tie rod lol
amazon is saying thats the wrong kit number for your truck but everything else says its good. so double check
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rock auto for 58.89
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22933189,hydraulic+line,1820
ACDELCO 22933189
heres walmart on the "brake pipe kit"
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ACDelco-22933189-Brake-Pipe-Kit/47390205
i use quotes cause they show a picture of a tie rod lol
amazon is saying thats the wrong kit number for your truck but everything else says its good. so double check
Thanks Tim
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dont know why but those first 2 kits come with 8 lines while the ac comes with 5. must be cause they split the front line then the lines on the rear axle
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Well after 5 weeks I have replaced my brake line to the rear completely. After much research I decided to run the line inside the frame, no compression fittings and I am happy with the results. Cost $33 roughly for the parts and about $64 in new tools to repair my Mityvac unit I got in a lot auction years ago missing some parts. Word of caution, even though the brake fluid gravity bleeds all over the floor after you spring a leak doesn't mean it will gravity feed after the repair is made. You will need to pull a vacuum to get the air out. It was a one man job and I am pleased with the results.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qv1WBHtmVQ8
some good info about our trucks for the abs modules, steering shaft clunk and dash cluster repair
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ABS module- no a matter of "IF" it fails, it's a matter of WHEN it fails. But normally we only see this on the 99-02 vehicles. 03 and newer isn't much of an issue. My 03 Tahoe had 203,000 when we sold it and never had a single problem with the abs module. The 02 I just bought has 163,00 and the module has already been replaced before I bought, lucky me!
99-02 steering shafts are regreaseable. 03 and newer are not. And normally we only see this on the trucks. Again, my Tahoe never had this issue.
Again, no issue with the cluster on my Tahoe and my truck works fine currently but it is its possible on all 99-07 models. They showed in the video that you can get a reman unit, FYI, all GM replacement clusters are reman. Depending on the model they range anywhere from 200-600 bucks. Also, they are NOT plug and play as they stated, all clusters have to programmed with the correct milage and settings. This can normally be done be the dealer but some times the reman company has to do it if the cluster isn't cooperating. And they have been programmed when they are installed, if you install one at home and drive to a dealer for programming, your gonna have issues. Also be prepared for at least a 100 bucks for programming and even more if the vehicle is operated with an unprogrammed cluster, because then there are mileage issues the dealer has to fix.
This is done this way to protect against falsely adjusting mileage.
With the transfer case, if you get a hole and it causes the tcase to cook, you can get a reman unit or have it rebuilt. If you don't cook the tcase but still end up with a hole, then you can have the rear case half replaced and GM has a bulletin to install what they call a "case saver". I've never seen a tcase with a new half and case saver installed return with the same issue.
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I know on my buddy's 04 3500 his gauges act up and the abs had to be rebuilt. My 04 impala has messed up gauges also. And my steering shaft clicked. I sprayed some graphite spray in the boot and it fixed it this was 5 years ago. The clusters do remember the millage but I thought you could plug and play as long as the gauges matched up?
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I know on my buddy's 04 3500 his gauges act up and the abs had to be rebuilt. My 04 impala has messed up gauges also. And my steering shaft clicked. I sprayed some graphite spray in the boot and it fixed it this was 5 years ago. The clusters do remember the millage but I thought you could plug and play as long as the gauges matched up?
Nope, some will remember mileage but only on certain models, it's hit an miss. It still has to be setup up upon installation. Just take it to the dealer and do it right the first time. It is possible to find out if a vehicle has had the cluster changed. Some store the mileage in the cluster, some store it in the Body Control Module, some both and some in multiple modules.
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just to give you a heads up, had to replace my fuel pump on my 02
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=36804.0
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It has been fine for a while and when it does happen I have figured out how to deal with it.
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zieg what do you have to do? my truck is now giving me more fits think its more of a loos connection somewhere just not sure where to check. the truck performs 100% better than before but now it still has an intermittent issue with starting and stalling
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zieg what do you have to do? my truck is now giving me more fits think its more of a loos connection somewhere just not sure where to check. the truck performs 100% better than before but now it still has an intermittent issue with starting and stalling
Last time it happened I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and it must of reset whatever fit it was throwing...