73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: gunrac on December 29, 2015, 03:53:35 pm
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94' 5.0L TBI, Original 82,000 mi. Dad bought the truck new.
My bad for not making a more thorough inspection, I know, but it is, what it is and could use a bit of help confirming my suspicions.
Recently. I made another run from Oh. to Tx. "1,200 mi." Rain all the way. Approx. 1/2 down, the muffler blew a 3"x4" hole on top, toward the rear of the muffler. Muffler was only 3 mo. old at best. I pulled over, yes it was loud and idle was very rough. Also there was a light dull knock, I knew right off it was not a lifter tap and didn't make the loud noise I've heard w/a rod. I needed to make another 12 mi. to get off freeway. As the RPM's built up, the engine smoothed out, an seemingly, was running great, other then the noisy muffler. I also never seen a smoke trail either.
Pulled in an got fuel, idle was still rough. Checking my fluids, water level was fine, temp. was 190*, oil pressure was a bit lower then usual, maybe 25 PSI at a barely running idle. I could tell it was running a bit rich, at idle. I was concerned, but hit the road again. At a nice cruisin speed, oil was running the normal 50+ PSI. I still needed to run another 500 mi. I made 2 more fuel stops after that, nothing had changed and I did make it to Temple.
Thinking valve all along, I still had to eliminate the obvious with what little tools I had. Tune up. Plugs, rotor, cap and after a bit of searching on here, I changed out the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
K' I seen how it happened, but still unsure of the complete damage it caused. #7 plug had burned or broken off the electrode at the bend. The plugs were all in bad shape, but no oil on any of them. I had NO compression on #7 and only 90 PSI. on #5. This is what makes me think it is the intake valve has suffered the damage. I think I read that #5 and #7 intake valve's work together. Thinking this may be why I'm losing compression on #5, not sure. I also have very good spark on both cylnders in question.
I have not located a leak down tester to use, I may end up having to buy one........Please chime in for other possibility's that should be addressed......THX
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i'm thinking the pushrod will bend before the valve------maybe.
Have you removed the valve covers?
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i'm thinking the pushrod will bend before the valve------maybe.
Have you removed the valve covers?
I'm not that lucky to catch that easy of a fix. I'll be gettin into it over the weekend. Local machine shop is not expecting the head till 1st. of next week, if need to be.
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Can you post a pic of the spark plugs in order by cylinder - especially #5 & #7, but prefer all of them if you can. Plan on performing a cylinder leak-down test to focus your diagnosis, before teardown. In the meantime, remove the left valve cover and inspect for bent/loose pushrods and/or valves hanging open, as suggested.
Your compression test indicates that #7 is the cylinder with possible valve issues. The "dull knock" could be a piece of spark plug embedded in the crown of the piston or a valve kissing the crown. Low compression on cylinder 5 also maybe due to poor valve sealing, but could just as easily result from compression pushing past the head gasket bridge between #5 and #7. Since cylinders 5 and 7 don't share a common plane of the intake manifold, it is unlikely that debris from #7 ricocheted into #5. Essentially, you might have more than one problem. Ultimately, however, you will need to pull the cylinder head to see exactly what occurred and determine the extent of damage. Because of the accumulated mileage, it would be prudent to check valve lift/cam wear while you are at it.
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Can you post a pic of the spark plugs in order by cylinder - especially #5 & #7, but prefer all of them if you can. Plan on performing a cylinder leak-down test to focus your diagnosis, before teardown. In the meantime, remove the left valve cover and inspect for bent/loose pushrods and/or valves hanging open, as suggested.
Your compression test indicates that #7 is the cylinder with possible valve issues. The "dull knock" could be a piece of spark plug embedded in the crown of the piston or a valve kissing the crown. Low compression on cylinder 5 also maybe due to poor valve sealing, but could just as easily result from compression pushing past the head gasket bridge between #5 and #7. Since cylinders 5 and 7 don't share a common plane of the intake manifold, it is unlikely that debris from #7 ricocheted into #5. Essentially, you might have more than one problem. Ultimately, however, you will need to pull the cylinder head to see exactly what occurred and determine the extent of damage. Because of the accumulated mileage, it would be prudent to check valve lift/cam wear while you are at it.
bd.....Plugs are gone. As mentioned, the break was in the center of the bend on #7. The other plugs were all dry with heavy brownish-gray corrosion. There was still a gap, but in very bad condition. I will go ahead and pull cover tomorrow and have a look. Will update.
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Was the "heavy brownish-gray corrosion" a fluffy, sort of glazed appearing coke buildup coating the insulators and electrodes? Any idea of how many miles were on the plugs? You weren't clear on this one point - was the ground electrode burned/eroded away or physically broken off? Any other evidence that the electrodes were hammered, such as electrode dimpling or a fractured/shattered insulator?
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Was the "heavy brownish-gray corrosion" a fluffy, sort of glazed appearing coke buildup coating the insulators and electrodes? Any idea of how many miles were on the plugs? You weren't clear on this one point - was the ground electrode burned/eroded away or physically broken off? Any other evidence that the electrodes were hammered, such as electrode dimpling or a fractured/shattered insulator?
Was the "heavy brownish-gray corrosion" a fluffy, sort of glazed appearing coke buildup coating the insulators and electrodes? YES. The electrode was burnt off, not beat down. {the hook was still there} There was also a couple other plugs that showed heavy deterioration at the same point on the electrode., pretty thin at the bend.
After thinking, these numbers are very accurate, plugs would have had 15,000 mi. installed 3 yr. ago. The truck also set nearly 1 yr. during this period. (cosmetic issue)..
Any other evidence that the electrodes were hammered, such as electrode dimpling or a fractured/shattered insulator? NO. Will admit, I was runnin er' pretty hard until I hit bad weather........seen a lot of 90 mph on several long stretch's, till muffler blew and w/the rough idle. After I felt comfortable that she was gonna finish the trip.....speeds average 70-75mph after the rains slowed down. Even after making a few short trips after being here, the engine still acts an sounds the same as it did when the incident happened.
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i'm thinking the pushrod will bend before the valve------maybe.
Have you removed the valve covers?
Wasn't expecting this........not enough clearance between the front Alt. and PS pump bracket and another bracket that bolts on the back side of head keeping wires and booster hose clear of heat......I'm assuming the PS pump must come off and will also need a puller to remove pulley off, then disassemble. ugh
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pulley was a bit stubborn, but finally gave up, cover is off. looks very clean under it......had to run an lost daylight, will pop push-rods in the morn.
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#7 is far right
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(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32335.0;attach=31624)
Opinion: The spark plugs are running much too hot - #7 is torched from detonation, not a simple case of erosion from chamber swirl. It appears that #7 was not properly seated, which could have caused it to retain excessive heat to the point of preignition and melting. Nonetheless, switch to AC #CR42TS (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=341&partnum=CR42TS&a=search.yahoo.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BACDELCO%2BCR42TS&blanktemplate=true) spark plugs and chase all of the spark plug holes. Check the base ignition timing with ESC bypassed, check fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks. Check MAP calibration using the information posted in Troubleshooting sensors and how to test (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=29996.0) in our Technical Pages and use a timing light to verify the injector spray patterns. You should proceed with a cylinder leak-down test and inspect the valve train. Are there any trouble codes stored in memory?
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(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32335.0;attach=31624)
Opinion: The spark plugs are running much too hot - #7 is torched from detonation, not a simple case of erosion from chamber swirl. It appears that #7 was not properly seated, which could have caused it to retain excessive heat to the point of preignition and melting. Nonetheless, switch to AC #CR42TS (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=341&partnum=CR42TS&a=search.yahoo.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BACDELCO%2BCR42TS&blanktemplate=true) spark plugs and chase all of the spark plug holes. Check the base ignition timing with ESC bypassed, check fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks. Check MAP calibration using the information posted in Troubleshooting sensors and how to test (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=29996.0) in our Technical Pages and use a timing light to verify the injector spray patterns. You should proceed with a cylinder leak-down test and inspect the valve train. Are there any trouble codes stored in memory?
Hoping I'm not getting into more then I can handle. I'll go w/it as long as I can.
#5 and #7 push rods, very straight, w/no restriction. Head was very clean, no sludge turds. No broken springs.
Wondering, since the compression gauge never moved on #7, can I just use the compression hose hooked to compressor, to see where leak is going? Or, is it vital that I do the leak down, as to gauge it? Also, do the AC #CR42TS run a bit cooler? Everything I read says #CR43TS. Curios.
I'll be reading into your other suggestions, as I have little to no clue about most of it. I don't mind spending a few bucks to get this truck up in good running condition. Providing it's fees able. I don't want to get buried into a lot of specialty tools that may go years before I use them again.
Quotes I got was 1000. to go thru both heads and 600. for the 1 in question. Probably not real hateful, if I was positive it would stop there. I'm fairly certain I can tear down an remove the head and reassemble.
Went thru exhaust manifold, my biggest worry, all the bolts broke loose. Time I have, just knowledge in the finer tuning, is pretty weak.
THX for all the help fella's.......Ron Keep it coming, if you would
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hit #1 #5 #7........no leak off on 1.........5 blew some air thru backside of TBI.......on 7, air flat busted out thru TBI.......will hit the rest this afternoon, if it doesn't rain
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In general, the better approach to a solution is to figure out what went wrong and why, before dumping money into a "blind" repair. Invest only what is minimally necessary to determine what happened and its resolution. Discovering after-the-fact that you prematurely invested in a bottomless money pit is no fun when you wake up to being hopelessly committed and unwittingly trapped into a repair that seemingly has no end. Hence, my advice is to make as complete a survey of the situation as reasonable, so you can remain in control and manage your costs.
Reading the plugs:
Spark plugs cool primarily by transferring heat to the cylinder head casting where the heat, in turn, can be absorbed by the coolant and, ultimately, rejected to atmosphere. Referring to the previous image, there is visible evidence that the #7 spark plug wasn't properly tightened against its seat (look at the narrow witness mark at the top of the taper and compare it to the witness marks on the adjoining spark plugs). That reduced area of contact functions like a thermal dam to prevent the spark plug from cooling. Consequently, the spark plug continues to absorb heat to a maximum limit that it cannot shed. As a result, its electrodes progressively melt and burn. Unfortunately, the excessive concentration of heat at the end of the spark plug invites detonation. Detonation can be grossly destructive to an engine, breaking valves, pistons, rings, cylinder walls and hammering rod bearings. This potential damage is where the leak down test that you are performing comes in - to help determine the upper cylinder condition and the extent of damage before teardown. Since you already know the engine has low compression, a formal leak down test is unnecessary. Injecting 40 - 80 PSI of air into the cylinder as you are doing should be adequate to determine how the cylinder is compromised. I suspect something along the line of a cracked/burned intake valve in #7 and a leaking head gasket bridge between #5 and #7. Eventually, you will need to remove the cylinder head.
Supplemental clues pointing to the spark plugs running too hot is the absence of color change from light to dark in the radii of the ground electrodes. They are light in color all the way to their intersections with their bases. Generally, the ideal spark plug temperature range will produce an abrupt color change from light to dark, mid-radius of the ground electrode. In addition, although sometimes indicative of excessive combustion temperatures and running slightly lean, the white color of the spark plug insulators in your engine, in fact, borders between significant and circumstantial. A white insulator in itself is not alarming unless it also appears blistered and/or fractured. But with 15,000 miles of use, I expect to see a light coating of modifier deposits, which are largely absent from the spark plugs in the image. To help compensate for higher spark plug temperatures, the CR42TS run cooler than the CR43TS and should help suppress chronic light preignition.
Chasing the spark plug holes will help ensure that the spark plugs properly seat in the heads for optimal heat transfer. While verifying correct ignition timing simply ensures that the timing isn't working against you by exacerbating preignition. Checking the fuel pressure, injector spray patterns, vacuum leaks and MAP calibration are simply precautions against running too lean once the engine is placed back into service. Under the circumstances, however, checking for stored trouble codes is fundamental to your diagnosis.
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Thx for your support Rich......ideally I'm thinking of gettin the heads off, rebuilding as needed, then start going thru the ignition, timing cycle......thinking, while I'm down that far, will open up front end an contemplate on replacing gear an chain. Did Chevy still start with nylon gear in 94'? In addition, I'll go over cam an lifters..........If u have a moment to comment.......throw me your best scenario after head job, and or before as needed........need help
Thx......Ron
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Ron, figure out what you can w/o spending any money. Specialty tools that will make your job easier often are available from the larger chain stores on a loan basis when secured by a refundable deposit. So, test and teardown until you have a complete picture of both the extent and cause(s) of failure. Be methodical. Target each day with exactly what you intend to accomplish. Manage your time. Remain flexible, but don't get ahead of yourself. Avoid making assumptions and drawing premature conclusions. Take the time to look! Observe all that is available to be observed. Take plenty of digital images. Scribble notes in your repair manual! You get the idea? Ensure that you can correctly reassemble all the pieces in their proper locations, orientations and sequence if the job becomes protracted. If you are new to auto repair, keep all of the bolts, screws, clamps and fittings organized. Keep your tools wiped clean and organized. Maintain a safe, clean work environment. Pick up clutter. Wipe up spills. Wear eye protection. Watch out for razor sharp edges, especially at the margins of machined castings! The job is largely just nuts and bolts, so don't be intimidated. But, by the same token, don't be reckless! Stay focused.
As for repair scenarios, guessing from the bleachers is not very productive and often introduces new and unnecessary confusion or predisposes an unexamined conclusion that distorts or negates the facts. You cannot create a realistic repair plan until you actually know what's wrong. And, you won't know what's wrong until you look. So make your observations, post your discoveries and pose your questions as they arise. Help will be forthcoming. Bear in mind that your primary focus early on is to determine exactly what failed, how and why. Let the immediate failure guide your approach. What components were directly involved in the failure that brought you to this point? How encompassing was the failure? Once those issues are clearly defined with cause(s) identified, broaden your scope to include any other components that show evidence of wear to achieve a complete evaluation. Depending on what you discover, your best option maybe installing a new powerplant rather than fixing the existing engine. You really won't know until you compile more information.
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Maybe, I'm reading to much into this, but....."What's yall's take on the Exhaust Manifold Spreader?" Replacing manifold studs is a must, so they will see heat, while being off.
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Exhaust manifolds were installed without flange gaskets at the factory. Typically, I don't use gaskets when servicing exhaust manifolds. I check the sealing surfaces for flatness and alignment, and smear a thin even coat of Ultra Copper on the flange faces during assembly. If the manifolds are badly warped, gaskets won't really help.
When removing an old manifold that you intend to reuse, it is good practice to install "spreaders" before loosening the bolts - two per manifold.
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25119.0;attach=21702)
The 'spreaders' help maintain the flange spacing and greatly ease reassembly. Otherwise the cast manifold can distort, making its reuse a frustrating proposition. Once the manifolds move, the spreaders are virtually useless. They won't restore flange position or alignment.
So, if you are removing both exhaust manifolds at the same time...
...pick up and install four Lisle 13000 manifold spreaders (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-13000) BEFORE you unbolt the manifolds from the heads!
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A new crate engine won't cost much more than what you're gonna spend to have this one fixed
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I can't remember what this is called. Can someone tell me how to check it?
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That's an EGR valve, (E)xhaust (G)as (R)ecirculation valve. It is opened by vacuum and allows exhaust gases to pass back thru the intake system and be reburned again. On the bottom side of the unit, there is a small pin shaped piece called a pintle, it's in the middle of the circular hole in the cast iron base. So press the pintle down into the canister valve, then plug the vacuum line port with your finger and then release the pintle, if it stays down, it's working, if it pops back up, it's not working right.
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THX......I read about it a while back. Just making sure I got it right......It also needs replaced.
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#5....#7 Is rt. of 2 valves. 7 is sucked in the center towards stem. Piston, cyl. walls r good to go. Lifters also good. Still need measurement on v. spring and cam just to be sure. Replacing the EGR valve. Head shop on Mon. check for hair line cracks. Nothing visable to my eye. Hoping to get away w/a single valve replacement and seat and grind the rest. See what the man says.
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Got the heads back yesterday. I got lucky, just the 1 intake valve had to be replaced. Felt good about price, cleaned and resurfaced both heads even cleaned up all the hardware, while throwing in a new valve....110 bucks. I already had them dissembled and still have to lap/grind and reassemble. Couldn't salvage the left exhaust manifold tho, 80 bucks at Jegs. good deal there to, I thought.
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1st. lap job. Guess I'm gettin the hang of it. 1 head done, checkin myself using brake cleaner, so far so good. Beautiful day down here in TX. workin outside w/just a pair of shorts on.....all good!
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Am I missing something? As mentioned, this is my 1st. rodeo.
After watchin some videos, I'm not so sure I'm gettin this lapping down correct, even tho it passes the seal tight test using brake cleaner.
I'm using the compound by Permatex. Supposedly, they use multiple grades of grit in there formula. I just don't see the same flat shine on my valves, like I do in the videos. It appears that the top and the bottom of the valve are polishing out to a shine. But there is a thickness between the 2 that is a dull gray in color, it just won't polish out to a shine. I see and feel w/my thumb nail, very fine lines between the 2 polish surfaces. Both heads are done to where they pass the leak test. But wanted to hear input before install.
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The face of a properly ground valve will be somewhat shiny. Lapping will dull the area of contact, indicating where the valve face meets the seat. The resulting ring (witness mark) should be equal width throughout its arc and centered roughly one third of the way in from the valve margin. Be sure that the valve faces and seats are totally clean of abrasive before final assembly.
Edit: Referring to the diagram, the valve "face" is mis-labeled as the "seat."
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It all makes since, but I notice the fine circular lines. Normal?
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Follow up with fine lapping compound, clean all abrasive residue from valves and seats, apply a smear of light engine oil and call it done. I should add, assuming at least a three-angle valve job, the seats should have witness marks similar to the valves.
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Gasket an parts showed yesterday. The EGR valve has my concern. Advance web site says this is an exact fit. All is the same as the old one except the pintle, "as I understand it is called".
The original protruded an 1/8" from base. The new one protrudes 3/8" w/the housing around it is 1/2" off base. Is this just a upgraded version or did I receive the wrong one?
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Tools are starting to take a bite out of my wallet. Ready to go together now. Read where it is important to chase my bolt holes w/bottoming out taps.
I contacted a man that called them a plug tap. Stressed, that he thought it was the same, but wouldn't commit to it. Is this the same thing?
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found answer....yes the same on tap names. Still concerned about EGR valve difference tho, ....
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(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32335.0;attach=31883)
Both valves look like service replacement parts. The pintle seat protrusion should be of no real concern as long as it enters the hole in the manifold and the valve flange fits flush to the gasket surface.
A bottoming tap is NOT the same as a plug tap. A plug tap has a longer taper (3-5 threads), a bottoming tap is a very short, abrupt taper (1-2 threads). However, the head bolt holes in the V8 block open into the water jackets - they are not blind. A standard tap, if you already have one, will work fine.
Unless the head bolts are fairly new, I recommend replacing them. Either way, DO NOT chase the threads on the head bolts - use a wire wheel. Head bolt threads are rolled, not cut. And, be sure to coat the threads with a good quality Teflon paste sealer.
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THX again bd. ....bolts are wire wheeled. Picked up ARC thread sealer also. Exasht manifold bolts into head will be replaced. The reassurance is a big plus.
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K' .....another, I don't know the answer to question. I went to adjust my 1st. series of valves yesterday. All went good. I tightened them up till I could no longer turn the push-rod, gave them another 3/4 turn, called it done. Well, I was putting on the other set of rockers, and I dropped the last nut. Fell right down the exhaust manifold on the side I could not get the down pipe bolts out of. No big deal, got another nut, was going to finish today. Checking yesterday's work before I turned engine over, I could turn all the push-rods again. Should I worry about this or leave them an call done on the #1 TDC series. Thinking all I done was kick the oil out of the lifters......I'm not sure on this.
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STOP! Assuming a factory camshaft, read the valve adjustment procedure in the factory manual. It sounds like you have the valves misadjusted. Double check them now, before you start it. Follow the procedure in the manual. If you have a performance cam, follow the Exhaust Opening Intake Closing (EOIC) method described by COMP cams in their article How To Set And Adjust Valve Lash Like A Pro (http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/how-to-set-and-adjust-valve-lash-like-a-pro/).
Tip: The idea is to remove the free floating, end-to-end lash from the valve train to zero, then tighten the rocker nuts one full additional turn to center the pistons in the lifters. Following the factory procedure, back the rocker nuts off until you can feel/see end-to-end play in the push rods with the lifters on the heels of the cam lobes. Tighten each rocker nut while moving the respective pushrod end-to-end and spinning it until you just remove the free play. You may feel a slight increase in resistance while rotating the pushrod, but do not rely on that. Then tighten 3/4 to one full additional turn, adjusting all of the valves using the exact same preload. It is not difficult to do, but you must pay close attention and be methodical. Depending on whether you pre-filled the lifters with oil, the pushrod may still spin (w/o end-play) or it may feel tight until the lifter bleeds down. Once all the lifters are adjusted, some will spin and some will be tight, depending on where the lifter is on its cam lobe.
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Stock 305 TBI.
When I set up, I rolled the engine over to what I thought was TDC, on #1 compression stroke, by watching for lifter movement. When I had no lifter movement while bringing the timing marks to mash at zero degrees, in my weak mind, I considered this to be on the compression stroke. Rolling 1 more full turn, I had lifter movement while coming back in to zero. I done this a few times thinking I was zero on the compression stroke, w/no movement. Now, I followed the sequence as to the manual, adjusting these valves only, and not turning the engine at all.
— Exhaust - 1, 3, 4, 8
— Intake - 1, 2, 5, 7
But I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop, then gave them another 3/4 turn. Right or wrong? Maybe I'm off on my theory of being on the compression stroke. I don't know now.
Should I back the rockers off and strictly watch to get zero clearance at valve and rocker arm? I thought by just doing the PR spin, I was accomplishing the same thing.
After going out yesterday, and before turning engine over to bring up #6, I thought I better check work I had already done. I was again able to spin PR's, I just quit right there an thought I better ask for more advice.
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Ron, my only concern with your procedure is this...
... I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop, then gave them another 3/4 turn. Right or wrong? ...
Your method, the way you described it, implies that you over-preloaded the lifters. Finding the "sweet spot," as you called it, is a matter of reducing valve train free lash to exactly zero, before preloading the lifters. This is achieved by backing the rocker nut off until you can feel and see end-play between the pushrod and the rocker arm. In other words, while lightly holding the pushrod into its seat in the lifter body, you can wiggle the rocker arm up and down and feel a small gap between the end of the pushrod and the rocker arm. Once you can feel some play, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until the play just disappears. That is zero lash. Now, tighten the nut 3/4 additional turn and you are done adjusting that valve. Each valve is adjusted this way, in turn, following the procedure in the factory manual.
If you are not confident that you made the adjustment this way, it is easy enough to correct it now, before installing the valve covers.
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Ron, my only concern with your procedure is this...
... I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop, then gave them another 3/4 turn. Right or wrong? ...
Your method, the way you described it, implies that you over-preloaded the lifters. Finding the "sweet spot," as you called it, is a matter of reducing valve train free lash to exactly zero, before preloading the lifters. This is achieved by backing the rocker nut off until you can feel and see end-play between the pushrod and the rocker arm. In other words, while lightly holding the pushrod into its seat in the lifter body, you can wiggle the rocker arm up and down and feel a small gap between the end of the pushrod and the rocker arm. Once you can feel some play, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until the play just disappears. That is zero lash. Now, tighten the nut 3/4 additional turn and you are done adjusting that valve. Each valve is adjusted this way, in turn, following the procedure in the factory manual.
If you are not confident that you made the adjustment this way, it is easy enough to correct it now, before installing the valve covers.
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I'm now glad I stopped when I did. Yes, going by my procedure, I was way over tightening them. I now understand the correct way as you described.
My question now is, since I now have pushed the oil out of the lifter's, won't I have to get oil back into them somehow?
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Unnecessary. Had you torn the engine completely apart, I would recommend pre-oiling the engine using an oil pump priming tool (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-901010/overview/) through the distributor hole at the back of the intake manifold just before starting it up for the first time. Just pulling the heads there should be plenty of oil retained in the lubrication system to build oil pressure almost immediately. At most, the valve train may lightly rattle for two to three seconds.
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Oil coolant lines that go into radiator, they have a plastic type seal at the fitting. Can I get away w/using rubber o-rings?"
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Engine oil cooler or transmission lines?
The plastic piece is a retainer that locks the hose into its connector. The connectors and plastic retainers are serviceable. The hose seals with Viton o-rings.
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engine.......line's run from oil filter area to radiator. They show plastic for replacement, and that is what was in it, noticed they separated somewhat before I reassembled. Naturally, you can't buy just the 2 little seal's. But you can get a kit for 12-14 bucks.......
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O-ring's took care of oil cooler lines. Completely back together now. Fired right up, never done anything except add coolant. I made a 15 mi. rd. trip to get y-pipe welded back together. Really seemed to be running great, in town and freeway, no hesitation. Timing is very close, crisp start and shut-off, idol's 8-900 and 5-600 in gear.
The check engine light did come on during the return trip back. Will stop at Advance an hook up there scanner, go from there. I replaced the EGR, IAC, CTS and ECT sensor's. But still haven't checked a couple other things, fuel pressure, vacuum, MAP and the TPS sensor's. If you think of anything I'm missing, let me know.
Want to TY all for the help on this project, and a special THX to bd, I probably would't have done this on my own w/out his advice. He really saved my bacon on the valve adjustment.
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The check engine light did come on during the return trip back. Will stop at Advance an hook up there scanner, go from there. I replaced the EGR, IAC, CTS and ECT sensor's. But still haven't checked a couple other things, fuel pressure, vacuum, MAP and the TPS sensor's. If you think of anything I'm missing, let me know.
Accept a pat on the back and a well done! You did good!
Rounding the project out, make sure the timing is not over advanced - number 7 spark plug and valve were severely overheated. Check the items you noted above to verify beyond any doubt there are no vacuum leaks, the system is operating with proper fuel pressure, the MAP is within calibration, and the TPS base setting is correct while providing a smooth voltage transition to the ECM with throttle opening and closing. The references you'll need are in the Technical Pages of the Forum and the GM service manuals. If not previously inspected, visually verify injector spray pattern and delivery. Replace the fuel filter if not recently done. Did you migrate to colder plugs or continue using the CR43TS?
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Just made a short run, barely moving temp. gauge. Checking fluids before leaving, as suspected, she made another burp, sucked res. empty. Well, warning light didn't come on. Puttin the checks off till weather is more favorable. Maybe tomorrow if the wind lays down. Yes, I did keep the 43's in it, as they are pretty new. Thinking they should be ok, as long as everything else checks out or replaced as needed. I'll keep a good eye on em' this time. Timing light is a must, hoping to borrow one. Fella at muffler shop wanted 35 bucks to get his out.....geeese. I have an older Snap-On, I'll have my son send it down, if need to be.
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I did keep the 43's in it, as they are pretty new
I hope you replaced #7 at least! :o
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I did keep the 43's in it, as they are pretty new
I hope you replaced #7 at least! :o
I put new plugs in shortly after getting in Tx......Maybe 100 mi. on them, at best.