73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Brakes and Braking Systems => Topic started by: frotosride on January 23, 2016, 09:16:40 PM
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I've had the same problem for a while now and I just. Checked all pads and hoses 3 days ago so I guess I'm gonna start with re bleeding the left driver's side and go from there. I've never gotten the dummy brake light but it could be broke or disconnected. The PV is the same one since '87 so we will see. I will post any progress as well if you wish since it is your thread Usareke
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Here's a little idea of how bad it is. This is at roughly 30mph.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160116_130934_zps0tqtoa6x.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160116_130934_zps0tqtoa6x.mp4)
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Here's a little idea of how bad it is. This is at roughly 30mph.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160116_130934_zps0tqtoa6x.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160116_130934_zps0tqtoa6x.mp4)
Yeah man that's about how bad mine is, I have to way correct it to the left to stay on the road.. Its sad lol
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160113_134958_zpsbsa1afzd.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20160113_134958_zpsbsa1afzd.jpg.html)
Did a little skid testing too. This view is from front looking back to where I started braking.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160113_134923_zps35umewqg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20160113_134923_zps35umewqg.jpg.html)
And vice versa.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160113_134958_zpsbsa1afzd.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20160113_134958_zpsbsa1afzd.jpg.html)
Did a little skid testing too. This view is from front looking back to where I started braking.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160113_134923_zps35umewqg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20160113_134923_zps35umewqg.jpg.html)
And vice versa.
Ouch that's a pretty big difference
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Have you replaced the flex hoses on the front ?
They clog up inside
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I did both hoses in 2013 when I put the lift on. They were part of the i8t
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These trucks either stop well or don't stop at all. When they decide to not stop at all its a royal pain in the ass to figure out why and can get expensive fast!
I've replaced every single part of my trucks braking system and it still bloody sucks. I think one of the biggest issues is simply bleeding and doing the 2 person job I don't think cuts it. Gravity bleeding doesn't work well.
Pulling usually ends up being the opposite side of the actual pull in this case if if swings left its the right side which means you probably have caliper issues. These 40 year old trucks people never think of rebuilding or replacing calipers... so check those.
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the rear drum brakes on just about any vehicle require a manual adjustment from time to time - and oddly enough it seems the drivers side rear is always out a little more than the opposite side ???? if you took your vehicle to a garage for oil changes the brake adjustment would always be done then .
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Make sure the calipers are moving freely. If so replace the left side hose.
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Replace them both
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May have found part if not all of the issue. Both pin-bolts on the driver's side have a slight bend to them. This may be causing the initial catch and once I apply enough pressure everything seems better. Going to look for new bolts hopefully this afternoon. Dorman makes a pin-bolt and guide sleeve kit for $15. Either way these need to be replaced so I'm not replacing needless parts if it does end up being the caliper
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You can buy the whole caliper for under $15
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Quality? And where please. Either Way they never come with hardware so new ones are definitely needed
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AutoZone reman calipers
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AutoZone reman calipers
1/2 of what I paid at NAPA.........I wasn't as thrifty then.....lol
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Gotma pair from the big O.. So the plan is this weekend but I'm painting them first. They were 54 but 10 core for each so total of $34.
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I have no where near as much knowledgable input as the rest of these good men, but my '87 v20 has an 8" lift and the ride is miserable! My 9 month old loves it cause she just bounces. I use it primarily as a beach truck, and I've hopped people out of their seats at 10-15 mph. I can't complain though, I got it for $500
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I have no where near as much knowledgable input as the rest of these good men, but my '87 v20 has an 8" lift and the ride is miserable! My 9 month old loves it cause she just bounces. I use it primarily as a beach truck, and I've hopped people out of their seats at 10-15 mph. I can't complain though, I got it for $500
No complaints here either, 8 got mine for free and I personally made it ride rougher.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160130_215921_zpsgt1wydv3.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160130_215921_zpsgt1wydv3.jpg.html)
Got the new/reman calipers ready to go on. I'm also going to try adding a smidge of toe to help with the steering/ slight wondering. I have some alimnium plates and aluminum angle iron t9 make my toe plates. Just gotta weld them together.
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Why are they florescent baby blue?
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blue fetish?
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blue fetish?
Thats what I was wondering.... I don't think it matches the blue his truck is.
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Smurfs special.
What do you mean you are adding toe to help with wandering?
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Why are they florescent baby blue?
I don't know why they look like that in the pic. It's acutely VHT HEADER paint.
blue fetish?
Not really that worried about matching perfectly. But fetish...well I may like blue a little.
Smurfs special.
What do you mean you are adding toe to help with wandering?
Ha😛. I'm at zero toe. I plan on toeing in slightly. Obviously I'm gonna recheck my toe before adjusting anything.
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Ok, but what color VHT paint did you use? Let me guess, blue? Lol
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Ok, but what color VHT paint did you use? Let me guess, blue? Lol
Nope ..BBBBLLLLUUUE I think that's they way it's spelt on the can
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Ok, but what color VHT paint did you use? Let me guess, blue? Lol
Nope ..BBBBLLLLUUUE I think that's they way it's spelt on the can
LOL.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160320_142206_zpsuztiemad.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160320_142206_zpsuztiemad.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160320_142206_zpsuztiemad.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160320_142206_zpsuztiemad.jpg.html)
Ok so after having these new calipers for over a month I finally got around to installing them. Unfortunately the only change is the blue color of my calipers. Two things to note..
1) I have a bump steer issue as well and guess which direction of travel I go when I'm not correcting it immediately. .. it goes right just like when I brake at any rate over 1/4 pedal travel.im sure I have some geometry that's off.. not that it was ever that good in the first place.
2)I cannot get my tires to lock up for the life of me. Yesterday after I finishes a ridiculous amount of bleeding I went for a test drive to find out it still pulls to the right. I also double footed the brake pedal and used the steering wheen for leverage, couldn't lock up my brakes from 45mph. What gives! Apparently the weight of my stuck to inertia!
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Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?
Brake hose condition?
New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.
Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.
Rear brakes adjusted properly?
Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.
Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.
Master cylinder condition also.
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Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right
Although it could be a brake line
Get some of the one man bleeder screws. Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid
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Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?
Brake hose condition?
New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.
Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.
Rear brakes adjusted properly?
Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.
Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.
Master cylinder condition also.
Brake hoses are only 2yrs old and checked for bulging.
2)rotors are less than 2 years old and the slight glaze you see is mostly due to the camera. This is surely not the issue due to the fact that I have had the problem since I got the truck and lifting it made it more obviouse.
3)rear brake were the first things I checked. I did back the passenger side off just a bit but to no avail.
4) Always good to be reminded about how to bleed brakes but I managed to actually remember it on my own this time...this doesn't happen often.
5) master cylinder is OE from '87 and I'm no stranger to fluid, heat and cycling of hydraulic components and their effects on orings.. this is what I'm likely to investigate but after I spent sufficient time verifying geometry and spring hangers etc..
I think I'm gonna barrow my buddies go pro and mount it to see the front end from the front and then retest with a view from the rear.
Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right
Although it could be a brake line
Get some of the one man bleeder screws. Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid
I fully plan on doing this! Where can I find the one man bleeders?
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im sure you do but do you have uneven pad wear?
my crew cab does the same thing but it pulls to the left side. i have noticed it does take more pressure to turn the left wheel vs the right. dont know if its due to 4x4 parts or what, but i plan on taking her apart in the next couple days and trying to figure it out
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Uneven, yas but it is only the outer pads on each side. Both the driver's and passenger sides outer pads (not against piston) are thinner than the inners. Other than that they are both seeming the same. I did not measure to see if one side's outer pad was thinner than the opposite but it may be a good point to investigate.
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Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?
Brake hose condition?
New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.
Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.
Rear brakes adjusted properly?
Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.
Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.
Master cylinder condition also.
Brake hoses are only 2yrs old and checked for bulging.
2)rotors are less than 2 years old and the slight glaze you see is mostly due to the camera. This is surely not the issue due to the fact that I have had the problem since I got the truck and lifting it made it more obviouse.
3)rear brake were the first things I checked. I did back the passenger side off just a bit but to no avail.
4) Always good to be reminded about how to bleed brakes but I managed to actually remember it on my own this time...this doesn't happen often.
5) master cylinder is OE from '87 and I'm no stranger to fluid, heat and cycling of hydraulic components and their effects on orings.. this is what I'm likely to investigate but after I spent sufficient time verifying geometry and spring hangers etc..
I think I'm gonna barrow my buddies go pro and mount it to see the front end from the front and then retest with a view from the rear.
Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right
Although it could be a brake line
Get some of the one man bleeder screws. Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid
I fully plan on doing this! Where can I find the one man bleeders?
most any auto parts store has em
They look like regular bleeder screws but have a check valve inside
You loosen em 1/4 turn and the fluid comes out but air can't come back in
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http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6751566_0480799352
never knew wow.
and
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-bleeder-screw/dorman-brake-bleeder-screw/chevrolet/v30-1-ton-p-u-4wd/1987/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/347139_453145_27048/?checkfit=true
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Make sure that the calipers are able to float back and forth on the bolts
Not quite sure how to test that other than removing the lads and re installing the calipers and push and pull by hand
Also be careful when you have the wheel off
Use a good jackstand and when I pull the tire off I always slide it back under the vehicle just for extra safety in case the vehicle does fall. It can't fall totally flat on the ground
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http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6751566_0480799352
never knew wow.
and
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-bleeder-screw/dorman-brake-bleeder-screw/chevrolet/v30-1-ton-p-u-4wd/1987/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/347139_453145_27048/?checkfit=true
Those have been around for 20 years! lol
Froto, why not perform a hydraulic pressure test side-to-side? At least you would know what you are chasing.
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Froto, why not perform a hydraulic pressure test side-to-side? At least you would know what you are chasing.
I thought about this just not sure exactly how. I'm assuming there's a tool/kit. If I new the normal operating pressure I would just hook up the right lb Guage to each corner one at a time and find me a brake masher.
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Brake pressure gauge sets are available for a wide range of prices (examples: SSBC A1704 (http://www.amazon.com/SSBC-A1704-Brake-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B003VYVFSS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41dIqtfaCdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0T0MWHZAERK0PRJ2W05B), Aven 789-0060 (http://www.amazon.com/Aven-789-0060-Deluxe-Brake-Pressure/dp/B00NWDCUKA?ie=UTF8&colid=TXASFLVU4M3L&coliid=I2INN4LS1H8XL0&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl), OTC 7488A (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7488A-Brake-Pressure-Test/dp/B00063W7L6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51AvikhabgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0T0MWHZAERK0PRJ2W05B), IPA 7884 (http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7884-Pressure/dp/B000850MZK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31xMhQgv5RL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1ZZFXG9RVNN3MHSQK2KF)). I have a pressure cell type gauge set that substitutes for the inner brake pad, but direct reading analog gauges work well. The direct reading gauge substitutes for the bleeder screw.
A matched set of gauges is best, because you can compare side-to-side pressures at the same time, eliminating the variable of dissimilar pedal pressures between readings. For the problem you're experiencing, total pressure isn't so important as side-to-side differential pressures.
Now all you need is a reliable masher....
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how bout
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Brake-Pressure-Tester-Braking-System-Testing-Gauge-Adapter-Test-Tool-L3V2-/141930305056?hash=item210bb49620:g:bHMAAOSwoudW58Uz&item=141930305056&vxp=mtr
?
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The gauge that fits in place of the the inner pad would be best
But you still need to make sure your calipers are floating
Install the calipers without pads and you should be able to slide them back and forth on the bolts by hand.
THere will be some resistance but it should be able to do by just pushing and pulling by hand
Don't mash the pedal without pads installed. That will pop the piston out
Also I'd go ahead and replace the MC with a NEW one. Not a rebuilt one. Pay extra and get a brand new one. Not made in China
After all your bleeding. The O rings and seals will be worn out
If you bleed the brakes in a car with a few years on the MC. The piston wears a smooth spot on the bore and pushes all the tiny trash and debris into the spot where the piston never travels
Then when you bleed it you push the piston past that spot dozens of times Usually messing up the seals
Only way to prevent it is put a block of wood or something under the pedal to limit the travel to the usual range
I work on a lot of old classic and antique cars and that's a trick I learned
On a chicks as common as our pickups every auto parts store can get a MC. Brand new even. In a day if they don't have it on the shelf
But getting a new or even rebuilt MC for a '38 Packard Is impossible
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any update? i just got around to replacing the calipers on my 91 did both since i had the truck up on jack stands. the majority of the problem has gone away. truck will stop going straight, but if you panic brake then it still pulls to the right. thinking maybe the left brake hose is expanding causing a loss of pressure or not as much pressure on the right side
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No unfortunately I haven't done anything else with it bc I hurt my back a few weeks ago and I'm just now getting back to being myself again. Once I have the engine done and ready to go into the truck I am going to put some fire under this as well unless I get sick of it b4 then. The more I look at my spring packs and hangers the more I think it's a geometry issue and alignment.
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Resurrection time. As we all know life changes every time line. And thus I'm still living with this dang brake issue. However it has gotten worse and way more dangerous. So I'm running down a path that was pointed out several times and as usual upgrading just a little along the way. I headed down the suspension route to help with the pulling under any brake load. The only thing I have yet to replace are the rear leaf spring frame hangers for the front springs. So I picked up a greasable set from An organization that specializes in beating square bodied air plows off-road. Also got the crossmember to help with the oil pan clearance and more strength in the front. Just waiting on shipping. If I invested in a GoPro I could probably figure this out easier...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sUCP4w9ebX_9OcCShIvbXMNJWd2IW34PV-jgGi0nCgzKTzS-2CA1P2IsU7h7fwT5rlM9wypLW2FgegVAtPhaA4JV4Xrn3J5EXmL-zKCI5Jbs9SmQG99iHHGfb0rxB5jMHJcWf-GJZJXkHjzxbhWVhmDHv5rZFzhg6hy8s-2kUa_vHBNuYDs1TmkmnedxCra5K6_YMX5ETTnhnYjkxv0PY1-In02p9GmhveiAGw4oaZ38uVxdvB0CQe8emy5uR7O7zqyy5WLcKcMQ8ukijgQEarC_tWZMZrRygBIbbyQbTBAKPENilW3t-IkXiAdQF_dYQD-sdHYn4PO70ee4TB3dILBI-MPLngQ2UA-1YnlKaODTrGdg7wgLopoXiAT9E0LzSjvgGwslLIBNYDRfClQ4dQ873xZz1OTf510Tm_SKxvv0HWx2XpMi88i65ssa99-t48HFhmUb_3oj0ZwwmHWuoyY8b5QfNt3jUpU3AKOejiodrJ2nr5vC9ZYzUxRAcmh-qxuWa1oLf7KYLUeGnWv6LQJ0sxw6mgYTwvPLd6tgG3coxn2vA5lrGV1RGpwjwu-tGMYABBDsDlbjvOvl5E29QlA_KRdcYuzrmE8vEdYLl7qDDj4UebLDU_q0h0PeARxqxLNAS7ntMYSaSuAJuKaxHmM6H7a4Ad4exiEhRIbGp3MeWvfRC8OPNlbzSCJM_w=s768-no?authuser=0https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sUCP4w9ebX_9OcCShIvbXMNJWd2IW34PV-jgGi0nCgzKTzS-2CA1P2IsU7h7fwT5rlM9wypLW2FgegVAtPhaA4JV4Xrn3J5EXmL-zKCI5Jbs9SmQG99iHHGfb0rxB5jMHJcWf-GJZJXkHjzxbhWVhmDHv5rZFzhg6hy8s-2kUa_vHBNuYDs1TmkmnedxCra5K6_YMX5ETTnhnYjkxv0PY1-In02p9GmhveiAGw4oaZ38uVxdvB0CQe8emy5uR7O7zqyy5WLcKcMQ8ukijgQEarC_tWZMZrRygBIbbyQbTBAKPENilW3t-IkXiAdQF_dYQD-sdHYn4PO70ee4TB3dILBI-MPLngQ2UA-1YnlKaODTrGdg7wgLopoXiAT9E0LzSjvgGwslLIBNYDRfClQ4dQ873xZz1OTf510Tm_SKxvv0HWx2XpMi88i65ssa99-t48HFhmUb_3oj0ZwwmHWuoyY8b5QfNt3jUpU3AKOejiodrJ2nr5vC9ZYzUxRAcmh-qxuWa1oLf7KYLUeGnWv6LQJ0sxw6mgYTwvPLd6tgG3coxn2vA5lrGV1RGpwjwu-tGMYABBDsDlbjvOvl5E29QlA_KRdcYuzrmE8vEdYLl7qDDj4UebLDU_q0h0PeARxqxLNAS7ntMYSaSuAJuKaxHmM6H7a4Ad4exiEhRIbGp3MeWvfRC8OPNlbzSCJM_w=s768-no?authuser=0)
Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right.
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Progress was made today. I never posted this but I did replace the master cylinder some time in 2016. I didn't use an OEM JB5 but instead I put a different style on to see if I could mess them up even more...
Either way I now have a new JB5 master and me POL proportioning valve has been delivered. Already bench bled and mounted the master. I may have pushed over 1" when bench bleeding, wouldn't be the first time I've done that though. (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_RUtWSO7rHCdX-HCe0t5whzATI0mWjSe9luJECUIOEJeV7lEB3jE_SMsg2EZlOqX7Jr18E3hqfKxAM21PsmliQJT7Fo24QHWwW3YB14_HU6W1bP9Ydz11FPDnuvfuFNy4r50ic_OEbtTkCPpUQvUmD3g1ytChoeytS4QTd4K8EHtiAVc2UR93yruai4n8iTgTh8STy0VzSb5iyOxgJn1TGvdVOGYw-PKx8Cgui6Ubrem9gYdK9Q-_xheGITVI69bcWmNhvscObmFvYGVcB4z-rFU-yn3DU7TExVoWwFw9B8NixOIF6V74_1SNHvhXvcoIAfWcNJf7EwgW7RUYOmFQ1zSeBe8QN3T4itVhvfvLvO_d4p5Co83tKF7BceAL7ZT1bo8jyhzufYcA8tXv73oqz-5nQ-0NNqMXNcPtoV2X0mEpCrJ4Rg5itNAaU69ixcD1TdBP-2KTP7jBdjRMG5-4Wxr7eVFkTJd87RlSqT30JzeI-hpYB-r3UIqvzGX-8PqNuuQdFvo_4xCkjuJw1rLuO96am9X6FjN117-6_WEuzNx331yESpCivB3Mjd-jWlOzVZbAB4n_GgEA4KRv5DNJaQmAxsGAqcn-SBIavJ3cVNVbbfnFIITDwhII_k6JHzU7f_XA1tujzOqPsrZAjSiIdnWcLgT8phmEyfo4Xy6K3eVjFIqxc5PSqmqhxJNtw=s768-no?authuser=0)
Hopefully tomorrow I can finish the install and bleed everything. Unfortunately my youngest son, who usually pumps the brakes hurt his ankle and both feet riding his dirt bike and football practice. Guess I'll have to con another child into spending time with dear old dad.
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Got the proportioning valve in and everything tightened up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DCGfc9f-WjaN_xPyKnLTh9HkbQbVZWEdg_Wj63K1bAIA1kijvTL419JBz-TunEqNu49dm8I_LYgA5GAYIrgaRa7lIoLRSj3ycmcmtKi_MVITcZ2OuQAm2xP8WXfW2M-cBBUtYjbyEMa2FYk_2pszqjM8-vmmiR6tD-D1qFkfUbic9agBBkNFxP-WTfoMJlnlZYaAMg664VSDuOMM9oV4MIeTTriWihlYRAmIKjgJhfsWgwjeEF_vl2RkcDh1uDfTq7e3Lfw387KG0qjmX3_hDUeYGe8E4BFfyHna709kAvmZzh-4rirgVg5Dyi-VKFv9KKb6mYP4ZEExOiGVAsg5RNa27NHlvCQGSQZdyWKJaJ6bag1tOMnWamRRUT7cGgkyj5q2L1X_v7p4NElW9XFOI5MO7HJWS_kJxz743MHQzUe8-4Rk3-zcnO9nfw0R2CKQUQgNCq9LBs-8ozmMz1EuhmFZqYig03_Un6HRxtoMCfZgRAeJr-MavXvTkRgrDaorf0JbWZ9v946xxzQ-m6dGtPGzGMiGv_l6THPqPvsCQxHz6dfR2AwVUMWBW2p0r13fNTsIgIpoNu5aSJTn8_nuuEEnSEmNn8P1CqEeEJEE3bNpOqFiyjKEVmZsFpgWgTbQynrLy1qDnDoviebVUpX-N4UlpSccvgvWgFR_X733th3mmA_y7GVyTMpVcn83zw=s768-no?authuser=0)
Didn't have to con any of my children into helping. The youngest was eager to help as always. She lasted one round of bleeding and then it was time to switch out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VP47z6oVnO-xeMsKAgM-FCMkUz2RbRNa68hj_dxJUFpeLrmrtdndERZVIZYADVSlrrGKzTAKkGrJH39bELSx-IHe-VcZUdPEcVtfYlbYgM2peuMEcXZD8zoTEbz0Tdv_90ZbnBirgpiXBPU8L9JGk0-WItVQpiZ3Db6GaRfuL93yJVorj434Oq5Y_gNuTp2_88WeHkN1N7faK53YNlKDEQZFQhnb-k5bYYlYjHJTXVZ8nDRKB53al9AeVz3h5kLECdfQQUTCgyxV2BkrVqUhuNYA1_COIghrEgITSXAYBbszcKwcCEoMcqTVAU08TM3RS2xRK3pqjxaPBOG2LGBpksKU4PtLlf0_g3otNaqPEJHeANsfQ_7JtiAEWs35po2N-zmb0k_bROq30110RKD9DS53f5obdL4H12pSKprv480D2Y2hqf3G2ZAvdz-vweQ25VockLtWGcPfFmM7zEsX7BeyhmGXmDPglsQ6GxUbHrFfTPxFMhDNJDU8rn1UYCdJS9MJGpcdGrbzwjcwuCUJ6TBKSok_5XMd1CxJ8AuMy0DQWasqV3alcQMtoua6JNeZWD9-7an0VfAjDn1KkGKHQyag8cVQEClhYBO9nBCI_inf2Nb0Yah2uwkQbPXsYdMOKiEsEGuHRdyJlJZuAPxt08cPimh6LX7hPzB8xykhnb0_YhUuEqrhAkWJnlaYlg=s768-no?authuser=0)
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Did a few stops in the driveway just to get a feel for progress after my oldest took over the pumping and holding efforts. Definitely still have air but the brakes feel so much different. Had to stop due to lack of DOT3.
As for the previous CPP advertised proportioning valve..well it leaked from day one. As soon as we started bleeding this rubber plug held in by a concave star washer popes out of the adapter for the rear output. Until today it has never stopped leaking. I even tried to peen over the small nipple under the plug with punch but to no avail. I will not tell you not to buy one but consider this a review for thought.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_sE36wNMJd7yxQI9HDADUbMliA7U6pWiQEgQ7sxlWcNvhQTH1TKDOeFekN1P3wKjQF6flo82JqmiZQRv6_ml9HonWZ7mMKngZYNS7etJt3ScQ3e8Q2k2Vlg-riNF6_-8cnkmy3OV6mVnxs3P67-DfBWQ0dNcUnF5mdEuOnQDvHm7bXcQc3LCpJMCW6uR0JMckTlN6aX964aLuC60aNLZeyNlRftLVQeLq9ZiFe_Z-CR7EsQ_drdC651whog0uat4ue9NLssO2VIRaHZ5ZT0o34Bs11iwEqcmoEnYrFExhky_nyXOgWk8r1O97cqXr2p8aUhvJyrJZE1ONXOqBrKKx1a-tjgLBQ8yAvH4AOz_GiwEt66v0BnLs9DWZ1wWL5uPBHEFsFYtOCjgtwg7PFSflkR72XH2ePfKVGo7grl6EToikAlG33Ya06UV8a_tSR3fqnEkl8iCWHO055izxEtZNWCNXTyH75R5NiLqdfNbFhF5zRgKhL2neBfmxnSxnbxqCHTny0fZ0u0eCiCrghr0FQZa2wGKBq0KfIv_AoYHUDTKObQjwzQ1J_cE83Py_IyTAV_VyGSEApT7bAyblHBSOzZERx2v1BoYbcx6_vunKqMXmy0T843pO_QW0j0uc83tzzRT5giQfAI28Uk1sxrCuhILrafEPI2jS15KPxpel7gWhiocw1sUpvzb3CKfEA=s671-no?authuser=0)
In the pic below you can see the rubber plug (lower left side) that I tried to pinch in the hole to stop the leak.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3uvX8XSOZaYgtLN58MnTVkOxAmTfUQ65Ew9XCWgqDC2BaeXO6mYm-WdoVWvYVu3qpySb8NGPLxbZyWFW42pvjRXh8q4k7frfQs1buKDBstXSKdWYTin6aEZssmZKAJD3StMELBZrDipfnz7ZTRn_COB2Y3w4xYgqO-U-Pkx1_4sJggTHk7xtJhZQhHyeSf9_gjl3kOizDV5YoKiHzQxp3fnW6zBThdLd128JCso64b5QuEU0oUKYH6VODtRA0BxvlAXRn8Ptjmz2Kh5vHMQ4zTJTMqfMhQacWNbEsdg44xjum3EIemk-ti0by9aJWYcKPLkRmvCn9OrGyPdsd8_uQ2qvRvFRUQj4ep_N4bEs_BibzcMKIV_KRGBV_Yn-RODCZ7FAaxY3aN2TorS9SbO3tTSa2KTvQGMzd0F97Yn4ASh7OqtE5Qj0tPhgBLCr5LgFgUK6gnr-X5NyNXWcvyDJxPJHcIxOtHqJtkGNvoG7Y8grcZYaOdtCyGHMUvrq1YlAiNU4B3bV03DhVmpkDhrt93TDPXYWduV26LfO-m94J8FUls7wSpvui3FoYqkDEpmtuO_zatNPL_A_z_zMOMANT3flLDDnjzccfSfKcrbh2t1UXXkYQcCpkBWaJzCZKpaFsU00KZoiJxDulql3JurBUG2R9VNETCLC0ouyByjhO2MXxnBgsvRLv4lroF9G1Q=s671-no?authuser=0)
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Ok so the progress so far is brought to you by the tool of the day. I have used several air hammers over the years and have always been impressed by how simple they are and most of all how distructive they can be. This pair hammer has been the best so far. I just bought it for this project because all my others have broke.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yYOF9CQL1wa_W3btaYVe5T3j6qKa1q3-40g6LUuv4xwtv2Mcm_bz0nE3HauXkdp0zsdN5Wl3-Bpfkg35KNRbm9Ty5wgEJFAfDqKlpIJaLKlVddjKVndcUt_Bv_AtNmTPCFbNGlQh5lh6VQjLshP9QJH0ME5duL0oRmse21PfIDXwt5uGzFEwLnzPdgDuR_Qn37bHmI3EIsrYVB80LGCKS2RYIvOevCpEiPV4v6UKLgYbqEoFdvcY4NJtZOTgpKY7WrlCLhidlQPN7PM-_tDiR0FC5m_ab4om41AIaRn-a6OZXKRBzCMCnUar2rhNlNrT8DkVZOqqVM73mb7ZKvGMtLUBBS9n2MRCmnHn6fEc7yMFVOKTigzr_5IQmCR2QsH0IcaMzLaGBFbtVvVjPPCSaKZYY21vBVphe9RpIRWEu7QP84Igq1arKQ3vn3POlYS3Nq_ZeW1JIteuUoJMeNyuIXz22c3CAaOBQeOJH-vbNOhTo9wYa0px6s3H9NlhPbDaNk316UMObMExvo5RT__xYQEfKyyza9t2emlRjfMw190gVukLCZpjycyIULQAOH-XHAlrTshhuQYCt4yCzvjWYyGQZroWDpXDQrDHFJXMTmxWx2VSmExeeG88IunyvwQR-UIuXdTIv2n_HuM9v2dsMi4nak53aiEdes-i8z6pa2GUVzCWad9vO617CK9qlQ=s768-no?authuser=0)
I managed to replace the rear hanger for the front leaf springs. They now have 2" do tubing and Kevlar reinforced poly bushings along with 9/16 greasable bolt!(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wSd05LHR80B5RqZwB_PlF7Mhc8WKA_54KMXBkz_WQXCn9BlQ8aFfBBfZgTYMX8RoXOvL7Wk9r8YDyV_2KFyV2K9qoDLgYIOEXiUEXkK5BjPRtN7miYnkC0QzkQDobf8-l0IkkvlygKlWG_L5eJuoUSiLudmjIQpG8fVhXfLNQMMdohzJwbmGnUG3ho9oKUSUERpyfOwv35B4HdG7dI-DKnJSxq2aG-4nY3Jr4YJrnFK_H7A14Ev277bVEMCakJbxs7KcqjC0daID265z264SJ2ivzeDBNs9iCs2y6DNzaFFM6RHWAfzpNN-dkjZRN4GZMBQ14MD1L4emsj-TNeuyxOMCLjwtbTxZ1SiELlhFRUBOqWgjFZHXweU8QMh19WoHQWh2hwFdzCkLEuKcyLYfdetg8XPHaHsvAFPb-dZ4o9q5mfkYQ74bQro5w3RmShiICfG_fhRYZ8pcvRHEOdr1xJ9J_SsENdGid_nJ9C_eARIWRdOQzqi1MVDyyNwbh5w2oAQUOBGNybYoFMnHbkT9R4AqpFRwOWyIePTaIRYsXKdWMr2vC2W1CRrlCtFohyMW5UeKOF6lIFeNmKortTBSgiRBXBfSxq5hveGP4YPkY1ib-j_04OcE7JsJ71UadJopynjnWb2w47GTKvwjWF3RtUDR5zXGgtoqzZbbXXshPawBkwzPZ8XTank5eKqRHg=s768-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lyHP-zGplND0huCeVkVu6vGitVEUoJcC2wBgPVBFxGFzmkUGv0dXRtMZ_U7RV_IyA91vDkPQUJgHogtXixLW-AKPITnL63vPHooXHVMM_1nfINm7fiqTkitYcPJeAYWPEhhRqUCVs2kjnTPZLIBxNiEOhNV15FR2MODtkDwuVDWDs4qtiQtdU22PCTOlOdoYz5F4f3Bs3Er77A_niPRVR3FFL4mUDM3tOtpeRL4uRuZTEi6cSX7sOmT9bmSfMVx2l6rUn1X6AA_Wv8sYzE3FJWxUcnY0wkcUF2zuc6lJrDZliTwGSIoFxuoizRd8ZvCXl_nmNWxdZaCPKSGrMV6WoOX9AXXTPh-3rcjwpF-xHTAJwpuevfD-8h5ega0TtvGty-W9dKc9fyYiF44iEmEuypgVlTTk_wplWsTQ3LROTJG-QO1Pu73omZAoeAhT-4HMP9gW0XXj-9uJJUfJfW5pBpbiAC6S71qMEl-aJngBkTYuXNHAqjl6GYgXPMbfD-DVLkACEbGqN0Xuxrf9uavnP7SWWjkgjDGIZ1fSjMFvH0rMTfRHVsGmobKS2Dr59XrVrWzJtCka26pShLtF9WbYdlIHOhyA7dBCLyM9dXjx1hzj15lVC3qhwbBPjfCdP4YiSCWxGEeQx1QYb4HNGl72zw43IVyOJWP8xzzapEud56iTo9unW3JcivXeDlXiSA=s768-no?authuser=0)
I also replaced th front pads. They had ever wear but unfortunately it was indicative of both calipers hanging up. Only the putter pads were worn on both sides. The old air plow does handle a lot better. I adjusted toe to within a 16th of an inch and tightened the gear box just slightly after warming it up with a few spirited trips around some country roads.
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Ok I know there's still air in the lines and I will get it out hopefully today. Here are the current symptoms. The steering wheel still slightly turns left and the truck pulls right ever so slightly when braking hard. The drivers side rear tire is the only one that locks up.
When initially pressing the brake pedal, the first almost inch of travel does nothing and the pedal is firm. I can hear the diaphram venting in the cab. If I maintain the pedal in this position without applying anymore force the truck doesn't stop and I hear constant air hissing into the cab. Then after roughly an inch of pedal travel the pedal gets softer and the brakes apply fairly abruptly.
This leads me to assum that the 33 year old booster is bad. I do have a vacuum pump and gauges for refrigerant work, so I may use it to do a vacuum test on the booster.
Any educated ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
THIS IS THE TEST I INTEND TO PERFORM
Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis
Minimum engine vacuum required is 18”HG at idle in gear.
You will need a vacuum pump with a gauge to perform this procedure. Most “chain” parts stores will rent, loan or sell them.
1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20”Hg of vacuum.
2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. Vacuum should remain steady at 20”Hg. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20”Hg the booster it is faulty and will need to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20”Hg proceed to step 3.
3) With 20”Hg of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer SOME but not ALL of the vacuum. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see a 5-10”Hg drop in vacuum. The most important thing is to ensure that the booster does transfer SOME vacuum but does NOT transfer all of the vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20”Hg OR goes to zero the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above range proceed to step 4.
4) Once again draw booster down to 20”Hg of vacuum. Depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the vacuum gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.
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Good assumption. Replace the booster with a dual-diaphragm unit designed for JB5 brakes.
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I've been waiting for an excuse to put the hydro boost in. I've had it sitting for about 2 years. Looks like this may be the time!
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Nothing like adding more variables to the mix while attempting to diagnose an already elusive problem. ::)
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Yeah I know and I know better. My problem is I'm putting it on no matter what and I don't want to buy another booster. Maybe I'll check my other squares and see if one of them can donate.
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Ok so I went with my better judgement as recommended and went to the parts place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c9rzy9DBTltJetDUN8QaSkS94j0PUH3idgR-CkHUI_pf23dx01RSgBdUf7o6cHsVeT0F8eS25SYD8tj_tvIvlzg1qMJdvGZaJ2DlUeI1Uf7gHlRdslLk7mN2cjlvUMi1dEGTGetrKiNWuAeTqn-jHWRiW19yYz_ysjftSh9Gesh0elDzHf2UdN7yLzIpQLGg1_jbXypic0dLptZZk91IXkpTXo-zBwFTaBqJDi0_Kxb-6OCJHXWi_gA54GzZZ_Z1Wg_GeRbUMVajl4hFJkyqz6tkaqJuy97mVTJwzu-i_c5RoygoXd8Mf72sndlJe7DACOZgiPwiF3CgfRiequ8y3TJHuv2zGOOezS4VS57VtoGvr1O9s5gd1D94zoHXIX6b_mWpa4DEfuYJQWnvxRCmQdRlEJRB2rNxiEBa-IQhjj7-k8Y53UewFMdkFmb49EyjKKzIq3yl6dfzS1YXCNYAuxAZRlduyytHA5jXBN0_NYOkCciKBCZMhm_8faok_1umnjd3ExD9QFDKLMnBGzWj58X9DdCoDJTzDpnoM4I1fjsf9lIBudN0A_wExHjiC8I67KUDTyo758utosigLGmLKkAT-NXdovWCk6alewjIsQ8U0H4dpnulMthgVULzRGpRRlhqpb0n39Vlj0J-1RlohkILzrNsOPhpzJaxeKDra_OZrOgASGl-RgDPtTWraA=s768-no?authuser=0)
Here's what I found...no power brakes on the R10 or whatever the GMC equivelant is.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5BmfhiuQCeAixXrKx-81iivWFzQ49Zelj8pckUW-bqxmda9IGS0G7Hi9G1C1Wh10uR7yiLfVvvWGwj7QDU1coCSAVnnSeV0HP2xFdHp7NBq-3vUlz1FV5FOjpnOR-8yVXh0Qsn7Udh5QW9tn3eGiDMsqmz-2Us7PLSmj28xache4kNQ4V1rUg-tOlQ6w49iFQ_vT92nOjlpUIm1IhHrT5mhf6l7qTOS7gUk2BCLsNOtB5HaH_hCp6nzrcZ07QfKADxh1wT6EY0QjfwG5TaeYgoQaLu44KmMHy1R70CrIOYt8i2dTQGIlN7niPROY_qGFfCtnGUS7GD7PM6P0HdkgdVhfmfsJtWwmGElDMDYA-_BjJZZ97wr_F0gpXDAN36Q2w6H06sU5oIWETnkD-4X3JbSnGJ6LFgq7tcFLu5MRFilxB1plMv8x3TMguX3jtn-kWnvJKnHXaB-PRgnV7U6Ih-lTWFDYlp4uLQLbQGQnO1NFGIkO4ifHXDumyGjyJcJSxsLkAhKaDE_IdSbgQ51F1nU-uW9545LElxiy6yHE-RN_l6OTemUCojcKhuGnEOnOnDm-z0aYlq3WqETgRzGTrIoNFrA_fz-oy_TjjKPVHOnmgI7-bNNGfecKTh-Hf0OwFw3gHKY4cyV3nXLS-7Bcr7cSOJKEjQmVyKVZDjXCzusOnTgUaZJFemb9XKDKUg=s768-no?authuser=0)
Hydroboost on the blazer..kinda already knew that.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WgBgsLlgUs1akHqb1PETYgBZnS3y7aX4yJ4EGSXhKAFhZyYfKXIS0W_QoPxooTkdAuD7E7RmjkAq7M0bsE7w659Z1S3DCOWhtIo7-anPlMIZXjM763DSEhrAEkmfRTLEZY_40ONYwSVakq768k3aFDcK0SM9d4ym-DmB0CkzHW1S9l-xFJZYo-LSoauuBUZJnVhxMz8t_C011IutPvU35RJUxp3vZdktQPDlmECWe8uLp327K5Akwa0Dc7rp2sobGM44zhPGd2qmwzTjRhoWkCrecnJQPPzgIPZc2Mg_u3zNEJPDgAjd7nQDF1WYl32RvACV_YXxGmes8IttUxRU9Wf2mo-TrFdMyKp8iAE8s7Qx6bSf3SIVpNaci2ClX0RxhXkmP94FWMr--7lBul7ikLSJuEbzv-CwSzsOefzt7HJTZwQ279Y8l1mLwctOfXD7Dm_lREChJTwOxidEI1rTHx1kzvWFEBQOiwmYJAIKilq8WHg21tbzYjDagJ3H76OSrObXHSXmAZZ3EuUH3cGLp-eFn-XQdOgaMmycK6QpQ14nkYajB8l6RRiuqn7mC1RAy8X1PesmGAnpR_Srkl8re5emDUtAB2FeKVSV8d47WacUhX3B1aLp4C0E8jzLoh8m_RRab3QFVqq26g38AU7aucUvv6OZFpfC2eUjgdSfOUB7amYafLWJZXeZ1h4HIg=s768-no?authuser=0)
And the k20 is really crusty. Looks like I'm going to buy new and keep it long time!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vGs5-gjFUU_y2X7gTqQ5mE12XvyNnOaE52mvBxYs0YjjaV5KI8xMRuHnH5FArQc24BgKDExTaf7E-uzoO60ImPS3svayXmmSGumKmLi00mkZjUwUvObup2lt6dKxiuDnCiPA4Cw1GvZT_ycmt_xySzzYWkQht33hd3Cw7laTPyki-N4hOmo_bHXTh0fUjvUjCAjxwV8eURs15F811RfvshHBVc5fWy2YEokGSJ1JAiuBbpPZ2a8EFmcT8rmwiZsaU02jdBNbc7qBzNbMYxTuABZ5xY-jUlAnFocgUhI8cjSgSKhjRX1_dFsmRKGqzEEsg1kNYBW9tfpHPIjlMTMaTpb7Cd7L-6Lr7SQG7geASoceHTB5HmreiK29opm-hGzU127aMB3dyk5ui1d5PSqPALUCHIKF3eG2wwQ2TZ1J-X4HSkaijhDNSSgemyXaOody2QT1f0lFNWQXjlTvL7LcTLs40XTNbiNeACVkd1t_juTvwMR4CNpflHymBzyBhi-0OiNhyU6e0SkqIleg0ZW5jziwH6hj0z4JG4u22Y9UZWVEcZv6yPN5pWYMKjrOyFBogXeqJsMbz8oShI0ba_UuHKO0Oi48EIWOh4mLQZFbD6rPRwd6GI21fu9U_hxt7GYv6PqvkIcLgu6RK99vpC7MRrdIHCUJPPISxwj_IP_aYK4Xlrj-PfwyH3lD5pOTaw=s768-no?authuser=0)
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Picked up the new brake booster today. It was a reman unit and went in flawlessly. I did test the unit before installation and it performed great. Held 20" for over an hour which is when I got a chance to disconnect it. Cycled it multiple times, pausing at different points to ensure vacuum was used but not all of it. I repeated this 3 times before I was satisfied and got it ready for paint. Here's a pic of the set up I used. It's what I have on hand and worked great. Didn't get a single hand cramp from pumping it down.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZePRmrRQfcBamwKyybTJLDx8vdqKsT-Q4sUfIRRbzCQmguyRVGgRTUpMX_amRmuqgZ4svlX1MQEsQifA0SbFR1D8Lj19_6qeSVaYes59Sdam4APE3QatJvvAXkWWZQ-lJ2rUy6inIpBVHqUeu0DAGPB31R_X-g-ZE1sNpW4pZNn8WlbsPTLiNce6J4GD8R-rDNPs_-TxaiUfpsxyQfVttewyp753Y3jJsV2AcNyzKu1G-4TeWU50W4sY4Y0jKCVobmz862JBm_esxvJbWZOczU-OTovE90uQlxFI9IbbXOKrFWDou750MLWF9I00ikMFkCrzs97LE1RTK1obKFtbxnPrR8kiAY08u_M0MMvdbdsT3_fTYeBusSLcSaskxyPYfY5nMAznpvJOx7cgTUpBKgbdAqQ_9Pi757zKItDCTAHV1esOHK5xz-1Yl_X71S-5tmove8z65KmCPIiVkQUky7gUmOfskD-fJTSJIaNb1wTGOUG2UgU5HeepfD_G2H2OPZDM-9NvjTGFMK--DnspDrmXSkA-Puk15gBrJGGg0rbBH2jtb5ELCi9Wx0HFTLwR70ggIUlIuHQX4986QbCQqXC-1SbJ6JWAYzFqeUqE082tyBJtIqRwcy99TjWXSCzpwkaRSu92oqN1nYQToPRJELWSI10VszYdtnKKNxPrnE_XMOfu02uCkQGhh12TRw=s768-no?authuser=0)
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Took Old Blue out for a good shake down and I have never had the brakes work so well. The issue still remains. Push the brakes nice and slow like a normal planned stop and the truck will just gradually pull right, right into the ditch with no input to the steering wheel.
If a panic stop is rung up on the telegraph then get ready for some sketchy stuff. Steering wheel turns left, truck goes right and drivers rear will lock up. As soon as you release the brake pedal the steering wheel corrects itself slightly to the right. I am almost positive this is due to the calipers hanging up at different points throughout the travel of the pedal. I know that my pads showed obvious signs of both calipers hanging up.
I'm going to get out tomorrow and set up all the conditions with a panic stop from at least 50mph and take pics of how the truck lands.
Either way even in this current condition it is a huge improvement over any previous versions of braking... I'd even let someone drive it now.
I also picked up a pressure testing kit. I'll try and post a pic later. Haven't even opened the box yet.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qpRQ28q6CLEkmI2s8R4vTDw4LwrVpEtpVCTwVeWyepDyv9NPvjciYzvStWIL3Z4wxJamJvrR303SoDX9Kx60lg-pU3k2HvM9anpIAyZzqmb_fj5Nd6UT4QwbFD8WGYj5R2P7tBZn8Qf3RkkZpk0MhKF087zy7bgaC9yKDLDGfeeNtVwkgTSt6-jPwocIxh_in6TKf3cwXanU3iUBYeZmjKxlBrumfw00uibYkq1fcluXiojV7Ul_nWHDjfgHANE07LIR4demkbARi3ryjQTlz9V5tqZwDAXe3Dd1yN5QP5ExHUFVOKVkqEKQJdT4tFihQ1_kfNNPy0qnyI2uElyL9HwMtvTsDLJfZbKMcp9Q3aJLBk8XT5ZN-CINpfnwx4MYQjPBRcaws2qFN_iYHRTdJ-utCsn2z3ww3RpoaWOSB-qNm_kCBNlmTo0Da22vH66WXFXvZTNw5HPYckTrnbh9an6GN1BBjeymIUqhMPmed5nZeB4vZ0wAkiMcPzegdWy23CKDTYZLbxvlHV3O61UxZM7KShfJYjipP0Y5XwaGArbUf6BhTvoRvVTcUp4TiKciyGdPukqMJBRJhZ2m4MQpP8-BsePqbhjMhuYiZTyelzLBkgKrFpJqHUup0WiDWTXkDtcKObGTv9d35QsAxL6L_C7ENQrLtoF0AkBb5mDC1G-4MEjPgwm-2JKYiqNvCQ=s768-no?authuser=0)
So this is the kit I purchased. I do a lot of hydraulic work so it will likely come in handy for more than just brakes. It seems to be rather all inclusive. It even has an attachment for abs style brakes. Not sure when I'm going to use it. Also I'm curious what pressure relationship I will see between a caliper that is hanging up and one that is sliding as it should. Any thoughts and or experience with that would help. When I think in hydrodynamic terms it would seem that the pressure will be the same given that the area of the applied force should be equal since the Pistons in the calipers are the same and there isn't any bias between the either side. There shouldn't be any intensifier effect given the area of applied force being equal on both sides even if one piston extends and accumulates more fluid volume...
Having said all that my brain started working. The side that doesn't extend will have a higher pressure due to volume. The accumulators I work with function on the same theory. They have a larger tail rod creating less fluid volume and operate at a higher pressure which allows us to establish a set of lead pumps that will effectively discharge faster and absorbe loads without other pumps starting.
Any one with experience on this topic would be great to hear from. I intent on doing my best to watch both sides at the same time to see if one spikes and maybe equalizes and so on. But positioning will be difficult.
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Try this link for the pictures that apparently haven't been loading.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qrsDQDrvxT9EWYFR9
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Today I literally hod no issues with the brakes. They work break as long as you do not let the wheel go. I mean who really does that?
Fun story from bleeding. Since I put over 50oz of fluid through the brakes I pulled the 15 amp fuse for the brake lights. Well when all was done I reached in the door pocket grabbed the blue fuse put it back in and wouldn't ya know it, my dang bake lights don't work anymore...
After giving up on everything shy of smashing he switch with a hammer, I turned in for the night. Today I put a child in the seat and busted out the fluke. Pulled the fuse out, checked power and it was good. So I started investigating the fuse. I could have done a quick resistance check but instead I spent 10 minuets looking at it and I noticed it was blown. Very hard to see. Apparently there were two 15amp fuses in that pocket, the one I removed and a blown one... Love easy fixes!
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You should tuck that blown fuse back into the pocket where you found it for the next time. :o
Glad you got 'er fixed! Who would have guessed that bleeding brakes could be such an adventure? 8)