73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Power Windows & Door Locks => Topic started by: plik on February 16, 2016, 10:38:37 pm
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Recently the window motor gave up the ghost. I got the regulator out, and then had the good sense to test my new motor before putting the regulator back in.
Anyway, it only spun in one direction -- up.
I figured the switch was bad so I got a brand new switch and still only one direction -- up.
Passenger-side front window - 1984 Chevy Suburban
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The window motor spins in opposite directions depending on which way the switch is flipped because all it does is reverse the power ground feed, i.e. reverse polarity.
For example
Up = Left wire +POS, right wire -NEG
Down = Left wire -NEG, right wire +POS
The window motor electrical connector can only plugged in one way.
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Here is a video showing my troubles --
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDbztXhWG40[/youtube]
If installed, it would only roll the window up.
More info: I also can't make the motor move from the driver-side controls at all. :-(
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The drivers side routes power thru the passenger side switch. So it's possible for the drivers side to not work, be ok and the cause is a faulty passenger side switch. You could also not have any voltage coming from the drivers side, which isn't allowing the passenger side to use power as needed or the relay may not be working properly to divert power in the proper direction for the requested switch position.
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So ... is the problem in the wiring connector that the switch plugs into?
I could easily imagine those wires getting loose in there.
What's the best fix for this?
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You can buy new wiring harness pigtails. Waiting for another member to chime in here, you may need to do some voltage checks first.
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Assuming the left window functions, there is an open in the wiring between the driver and passenger side switches or the driver side switch is faulty. If you unplug both switches and both window motors, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the tan and dark blue/white wires from side-to-side. If the wires of like color have continuity, the switch is faulty. Otherwise, there is an open in the wire with no continuity. Avoid connecting your meter to any pink wires since they attach to 12-volt ignition and serious meter damage can result.
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Assuming the left window functions, there is an open in the wiring between the driver and passenger side switches or the driver side switch is faulty. If you unplug both switches and both window motors, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the tan and dark blue/white wires from side-to-side. If the wires of like color have continuity, the switch is faulty. Otherwise, there is an open in the wire with no continuity. Avoid connecting your meter to any pink wires since they attach to 12-volt ignition and serious meter damage can result.
Thank you. I have a multimeter I can test with.
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You can buy new wiring harness pigtails. Waiting for another member to chime in here, you may need to do some voltage checks first.
Where can I buy such a replacement?
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Delco PT-254 5-way for right door (GM 12101862)
Delco PT-546 6-way for left door (GM 12125634)
Both OEM connectors are available from www.rockauto.com, et al.
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Delco PT-254 5-way for right door (GM 12101862)
Delco PT-546 6-way for left door (GM 12125634)
Both OEM connectors are available from www.rockauto.com, et al.
Well I'm gonna put my foot in my mouth now.....
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Delco PT-254 5-way for right door (GM 12101862)
Delco PT-546 6-way for left door (GM 12125634)
Both OEM connectors are available from www.rockauto.com, et al.
This is awesome! Thank you so much!
Two questions:
- I have a suburban, so the driver-side control uses a 10-pin pigtail. I don't think I need to replace the driver side; my question is about the passenger side switch -- is the passenger-side switch the same if the driver side uses a 4-switch control instead of a 2-switch control? It looks the same, I just want to make sure.
- For your right-door recommendation, will the same switch work for the passenger-side rear?
Thank you again!
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Yes, it should be the same switch regardless as to whether it's on a truck, Blazer, or Suburban. The right side switch should be the same switch used on rear doors for Suburbans and crew cabs. The only switch that should be different would be the driver's side which should be a four door control, which is the same for crew cabs. I think bd just assumed you had a 2 door truck and not a 4 door Suburban.
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Yes, it should be the same switch regardless as to whether it's on a truck, Blazer, or Suburban. The right side switch should be the same switch used on rear doors for Suburbans and crew cabs. The only switch that should be different would be the driver's side which should be a four door control, which is the same for crew cabs. I think bd just assumed you had a 2 door truck and not a 4 door Suburban.
Thanks! :-)
I found it a $1 cheaper on Amazon than RockAuto (weird, I know), and with free shipping at Amazon I bought it there. So, it's on its way. :D
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Nice! Good luck on it and let us know how it turns out!
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Delco PT-254 5-way for right door (GM 12101862)
Delco PT-546 6-way for left door (GM 12125634)
Both OEM connectors are available from www.rockauto.com, et al.
Do you know the part number for the 4-switch (10-pin) connector for the driver's side in a suburban?
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Delco PT-185 10-way for driver's door - Suburban (GM 12101913)
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Delco PT-185 10-way for driver's door - Suburban (GM 12101913)
PERFECT!!! :D
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(http://sokiveta.com/ton/busted.jpg)
So ... new connector installed. Still no go. :(
Well, it goes -- but only goes in one direction (which is the problem I was trying to solve).
I assumed the problem was with the connector because the switch is new (as is the motor). And everything worked perfectly before the original motor went out (which didn't happen right away, mind you, it went slower every day until it died). In fact, when it died, it went down (barely) and then never came back up.
Anyway, I have no idea what to do next.
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Did you test the wiring as recommended or just replace parts? Control and ground (not power) to the right switch and window motor route through the left switch. An open in either of the two wires previously mentioned or the driver switch will prevent the right motor from working in one or both directions. Initially, the symptom of the previous motor "dragging" was caused by voltage loss across the control circuit. But, it was the resulting slow rotation of the motor that killed the motor.
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You probably have a broken wire in the door jam. Listen to BD, you need to check the wiring. Your other option is to rewire the entire circuit using relays. This is the preferred method since the factory method is not practical. If someone else has time, post the wiring diagram for the power window relay upgrade for him. Gotta run! Good luck
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Assuming the left window functions, there is an open in the wiring between the driver and passenger side switches or the driver side switch is faulty. If you unplug both switches and both window motors, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the tan and dark blue/white wires from side-to-side. If the wires of like color have continuity, the switch is faulty. Otherwise, there is an open in the wire with no continuity. Avoid connecting your meter to any pink wires since they attach to 12-volt ignition and serious meter damage can result.
Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it.
Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches
Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?
Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.
Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable. :-\ I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.
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Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches
A) Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?
B) Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.
C) Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable. :-\ I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.
1-5 are correct.
A) You don't need to disconnect the battery, Just don't connect your ohmmeter to a live circuit.
B) You have to disconnect the motors, because the tan and blue wires are connected through the motor windings.
C) Because of B), you can check continuity through the motor (and its plug) by connecting the ohmmeter to the motor leads at the switch connector with the switch unplugged. Are you saying you already replaced the driver's door switch?
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Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches
A) Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?
B) Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.
C) Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable. :-\ I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.
1-5 are correct.
A) You don't need to disconnect the battery, Just don't connect your ohmmeter to a live circuit.
B) You have to disconnect the motors, because the tan and blue wires are connected through the motor windings.
C) Because of B), you can check continuity through the motor (and its plug) by connecting the ohmmeter to the motor leads at the switch connector with the switch unplugged. Are you saying you already replaced the driver's door switch?
I realize now that I didn't read the earlier reply correctly; I didn't realize the driver-side switch could be the problem.
I really appreciate your help, by the way.
I've got my multi-meter set and I'll hopefully tackle it this week.
In the mean time, you might enjoy how I'm keeping up my window. :-)
(http://www.sokiveta.com/ton/door-1.jpg)
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Here ya go......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew
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In the mean time, you might enjoy how I'm keeping up my window. :-)
(http://www.sokiveta.com/ton/door-1.jpg)
That's an innovative use for a 'biner....
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Here ya go......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew
All day long......
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LOL........All good!
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UPDATE:
Success!!!
I was able to get the passenger side window working by replacing the pigtail on the driver side (ACDelco PT185 GM Original Equipment 10-Way Female Door Window Switch Pigtail). The original switch on the driver side just fell apart in my hand when I got to it -- the back plate broke in half and fell off, wires were starting to fall out. I had to act quickly to keep all the wires in place so I knew what went where. I had my son run and grab some masking tape, but first I took a quick photo in case the tape didn't work. Anyway, all is good. The kit I got from AC Delco includes wire connectors (the kind you crimp to connect two wires).
I still want to implement replays (to get power directly to the motors instead of routing them through the switches), but that'll be a project for another day. :-)
(https://media.licdn.com/mpr/mpr/p/1/005/06b/21a/0e62af6.jpg)
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8)......good deal!
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Congrats!