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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: Sonyablue78 on March 26, 2016, 10:34:21 pm
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Straight to the point. My truck won't start. The battery works, the truck wont turn like it even wants to start. People suggested it maybe a fuse. Where should I start first?
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so is it turning over fast or slow?
can you get it to run on starting fluid or wd40?
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Slow crank?
What's the battery voltage read on a meter?Straight to the point. My truck won't start. The battery works,
the truck wont turn like it even wants to start.
People suggested it maybe a fuse.
Where should I start first?
I assume from your handle you are talking about a Blue 1978 truck... telling the Year and Model ( C10, K20, Suburban, K5 Blazer, etc ) in your posts would make it much easier to help you. I'll give it a shot anyway.
"The battery works." I read this as... The lights, gauges, and radio will turn on. Those will work at 7-8 Volts DC which ain't enough to start your girl.
You need at least 10 V DC at the battery to turn the starter in a slow loping crank. That's what it sounds like you're saying it's doing " the truck wont turn like it even wants to start. "
First. How many volts do you measure at the battery with a digital volt meter? If it's less than 10.5 V DC charge the battery all the way up with a trickle charger then let it sit for at least an hour with the charger removed and the truck ground lead unplugged. If it doesn't show at least 11.9 V DC your battery is on the way out or, if it's reading below 11.2V DC, it's shot.
If she's cranking super slow and the battery reads 11.9V or more you'll need to do some simple voltage drop measurements on the battery cables to find your loose connection.
Second. With the ignition switched on do you read roughly the same as the measured battery volts from the HEI BAT terminal on the distributor cap to the engine or other good ground? It should read roughly the same as the battery.
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Very first thing I would do is make sure the battery terminals are clean and the cables are very clean that bolt into the battery terminal....I have had this problem with my truck and that is all it was.
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...You need at least 10 V DC at the battery to turn the starter in a slow loping crank. That's what it sounds like you're saying it's doing " the truck wont turn like it even wants to start. "
First. How many volts do you measure at the battery with a digital volt meter? If it's less than 10.5 V DC charge the battery all the way up with a trickle charger then let it sit for at least an hour with the charger removed and the truck ground lead unplugged. If it doesn't show at least 11.9 V DC your battery is on the way out or, if it's reading below 11.2V DC, it's shot....
Within the context of a twelve volt automotive electrical system, a fully charged battery will measure 12.6 volts static charge (zero load) with the surface charge removed. At 12.35 volts static charge an otherwise healthy battery is in a state-of-charge of only 65%. When under load, battery voltage will measure less depending on battery temperature and the current load placed on the battery. Hence, if the "unloaded" battery voltage measures less than 12.4 volts, charge it before continuing with tests. If the static battery voltage never climbs above 12.4 volts after charging, it has a dead cell or your meter is out of calibration and cannot be relied upon.
I believe the voltages indicated by Hatzie, are intended as "measured while cranking."