73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: philo_beddoe on April 01, 2016, 10:15:30 pm
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I spoke with the shop teacher at a high tech trade school, he said at least
10k to get my truck to look like this.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/2688958d933cb2a7d839eb4c0ee68d35.jpg)
Another new classic body shop near me said, 5k just to paint. He also stated you cannot repair rust or corrosion, it must be replaced entirely or will always come back.
I dont mind paying for quality body work, new panels and such, but are there any solutions to painting for less than 5k?
Remember the infamous $50 dollar paint job, what if i sprayed through a sprayer instead of rolling?
Infamous $50 paint job!!
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30802
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10 for that truck vs 40k for a new truck now days. yeah ill take one of our old truck anytime
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There is no substitute for a quality sprayed paint work. You pay for exactly what you get.
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How much rust are you dealing with? Most of the cost of a good paint job is prep work and body work, in most cases. Some shops will work with you if you can do some of the work yourself. It's a lot cheaper if all they are doing is giving the primer a final scuff and throwing down paint. If there is 4 hours of welding, 20 hours of sanding, 5 hours of straightening the metal, 5 hours of dissassembly, 5 hours of body filler shaping, and some priming too, well, you pay for it.
5k isn't bad if they are doing it right. Thar would be really high if they aren't jamming it and pulling the bed though.
Are you interested in trying something different? There is a 67-72 near me with a green and white paint job that is actually plasti-dip. You have to be within about ten feet to see that it isn't paint. There is a gloss additive for the plasti-dip, and it worked well on this one. He prepped for paint, then shot this stuff and it still looks great after 4 years. He used Eastwood's product. I'm going to try it on my '90 swb.
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May want to watch milkcrate82's videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50VOLpF3CBo
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He also stated you cannot repair rust or corrosion, it must be replaced entirely or will always come back
He is right. You can cut the rusted areas out , silicon bronze weld in new e-coat sheet metal, do your body work, good prep and paint and she'll last forever.
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How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
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How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Plasti-dip is a temporary paint job, it peals off easily. I wouldn't do it on anything classic like this, leave it to the ricers.
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ive heard it can be hard to peal off. but most times i see it on bumpers or wheels
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ive heard it can be hard to peal off. but most times i see it on bumpers or wheels
Very similar technology as Strip-able Booth Coat, white coating for spray booths. Stays strip-able for up to a year then it is very difficult to remove. The plasticizers eventually leave, very similar as why dashes get hard and crack...
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How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Plasti-dip is a temporary paint job, it peals off easily. I wouldn't do it on anything classic like this, leave it to the ricers.
It's only temporary if you prep it to be temporary. If you prep for paint and scuff the surface, good brands can be very permenant. And I'm sure you would be surprised how many muscle cars are painted with this stuff. Different brands and types, from spray on bed liner type of surface to smooth almost paint like.
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How much rust are you dealing with?
Just a few spots above the wheel wells, and a couple other small areas, nothing major. Never heard of plasti-dip, any pics?
Here is Eastwood's site about it. Lots of colors, different additives and different spraying procedures to get different textures.
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/elastiwrap-coatings.html
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Crazy question here: Has anyone or heard of anyone applying por 15 or chassis saver to the main body panels, like a spray on truck bed coating, non textured? Some high quality spray on truck bed liners come in many colors too. No, i'm not doing that, just asking.
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POR15 is garbage and has no place on the exterior body of anything
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POR15, or Chassis Saver is for sand blasted metal, or surface rusted / tightly adhered rusty surfaces.
The roof on my 55 was all surface rust. I sanded it with 80 grit, brush painted it with Chassis Saver, let it flash for about two hours, sprayed it with high build urethane primer. Sanded it, sprayed it with paint. The roof has never rusted since, that was 10 /12 years ago.
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Well, i'm starting the research on how to get this truck painted to look good, without spending 10 grand. Spending 10k on bodywork/paint on a pickup truck daily driver is not an option for me. Besides, one micron size nick or scratch and i'd freak.
If you have wealth and no debt whatsoever and could pay cash, and owned a classic whatever, then ok.
Perhaps i'll at least have the bodywork done right, get a quality sprayer, practice and read some how to books on painting and do it myself, in a spray booth. Pull the bed off and do it right. Any thoughts??
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You could cut it down to a lot less than 10k. A cheap HF flux core welder is enough for bodywork, just give it a shot. Stripping the trim, interior, pulling the bed, removing wiper arms etc, all stuff you can do yourself to save a few bucks. Call a few local paint shops and ask what you can do to save on labor costs. If you bring it in torn down, sanded with bodywork done, just a prime and paint would cost closer to 2k around here. Every hour of work you do is an hour of work you don't pay to have done.
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^ exactly what he said bring the truck to your local, good body shop have them estimate the price and then ask them how you can help save yourself some money. I'm sure they will work with you.
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I will certainly start researching that option, thanks.
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POR15, or Chassis Saver is for sand blasted metal, or surface rusted / tightly adhered rusty surfaces.
The roof on my 55 was all surface rust. I sanded it with 80 grit, brush painted it with Chassis Saver, let it flash for about two hours, sprayed it with high build urethane primer. Sanded it, sprayed it with paint. The roof has never rusted since, that was 10 /12 years ago.
be careful with coating certain products, with either topcoats or primers, as lifting can occur(pretty much follow manufacture recommendations for paints-and try to stay with the same brand through out the project)
I know that is sometimes hard with products like POR(I hate this product on anything-never have gotten consistent/or good results), Chassis Saver or any other rust encapsulating paints, so testing may be needed
Do you have any closeups of the infected areas?
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I will post some pics of the cancerous spots, as soon as it gets above 15 out. Some spring were having!!
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This is pretty much as bad as it is.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160407/2a9eba7161f909c76f3c3715b0f438b2.jpg)
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Only problem I have ever had with Chassis Saver lifting is if I got a little self etching primer for bare metal on it. I have used many brands of urethane primers, and paints over POR / Chassis Saver. Have used many brands acrylic enamels over it 100s of times, no issues. Have used spray bombs over it. Sprayed SEM brand bed liner directly over it.
All a flux core welder is good for is the scrap metal pile!
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Duly noted...
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Well, i'm starting the research on how to get this truck painted to look good, without spending 10 grand. Spending 10k on bodywork/paint on a pickup truck daily driver is not an option for me. Besides, one micron size nick or scratch and i'd freak.
If you have wealth and no debt whatsoever and could pay cash, and owned a classic whatever, then ok.
Perhaps i'll at least have the bodywork done right, get a quality sprayer, practice and read some how to books on painting and do it myself, in a spray booth. Pull the bed off and do it right. Any thoughts??
That is what I did on my '77 monster truck build. Never painted before in my life. It has flaws, mostly in the clear coat, but I should be able to fix them as the project winds down before I take it out into public for the first time. :)
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How about a couple pics?
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You've seen what we did to Brooke's pickup. I've never attempted body work before. We started her truck with flux core wire and switched to solid wire with gas. Flux core will work, but MIG is cleaner and welds a little easier. Buy some books and DVD's. Then buy some tools. When it's all done you'll still have the tools! Eastwood has some reasonable priced welders, but I'd do some research and compare them to Miller and Lincoln. There's a line between cheap and cost effective. My 1 inch drive socket set came from Harbor freight, but my 1/2 inch impact gun I use frequently is a Matco.
Air tool CFM ratings are an average over an 8 hour day (something like that anyway). When buying an air compressor, triple the CFM rating of your highest consumption air tool if you can afford it. Otherwise you'll be waiting for the compressor to catch up. A cheap way to cheat a bit is to buy a 100# LP gas cylinder and plumb it in for more volume. $120 at Menards
Here's our welder. I would love a bigger one, but it works on sheet metal.
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Was looking at this one of these...seems ok.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/007c1c825214338de78b3a1771937353.jpg)
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Hey those are esab's, I saw those at the sema show, I have no clue how well they work but the saleman was really nice
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ESAB makes nice welders.
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I have a "nice" dead Esab sitting in my garage. :'( My Miller is sweet, very versatile too. Can weld aluminum, copper, light sheet metal, thick steel. No bird nesting in the feeder assembly like the Lincoln's are notorious for. Easy to service, parts readily available, lot's of accessories available. I'd recommend the Millermatic 141 for all things automotive
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Not to derail the thread but since you mentioned "birdnesting" with Lincolns.........I have a 255 which never has that problem with 035 wire but will absolutely not feed .023 so is useless for body work. I bought a Lincoln 140 just for that purpose and every once in a while it does the birdnesting with .023. I've adjusted till I'm blue in the face. To your knowledge is there a cure ? othern junking it for a Miller that is...
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I'll look at those Miller's. After i get a book on how to weld. Lol
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When you get your welder, buy some metal and just practice for about an hour, it will train your muscles, I'm taking welding class at my high school right now and the majority of the class is just laying beads(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/7d763de6b07383022ce743170e0ea8a9.jpg)
Endless beads like this ^
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Although fairly straight, for carbon steel those welds will not be strong. You need to weld with your wrist, not your elbow. Think of the torch tip like that of a pencil or a crayon and that you are coloring in the void, use your wrist. Turn the heat up and turn the wire speed up on those welds. That's what I would want to see with a silicon bronze weld there.
Rattler, did you turn the drive roller around? It's designed to clamp on the .023"-.025" only on the opposing side.
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What is carbon steel
I know what you mean by weld with your wrist not your elbow, I discovered I had to do that when I tried to weld a lap joint, welding with my wrist made me able to weld a lap joint, idk why
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Although fairly straight, for carbon steel those welds will not be strong. You need to weld with your wrist, not your elbow. Think of the torch tip like that of a pencil or a crayon and that you are coloring in the void, use your wrist. Turn the heat up and turn the wire speed up on those welds. That's what I would want to see with a silicon bronze weld there.
Rattler, did you turn the drive roller around? It's designed to clamp on the .023"-.025" only on the opposing side.
Yessir I did
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All a flux core welder is good for is the scrap metal pile!
I must disagree. I've learned how to weld using a flux core welder. Window channels, cab corners, forming my own patches, and all of it still exists. I've learned how to weld and now I have acquired a Lincoln MIG welder. I'll learn to use it and I hope to find the welder's paradise that is promised by adding inert gas. Yes, I've had to deal with splatter and the like, but a sanding disc or grinder removes that. I'm fully willing to believe that, as an experienced welder one would never go back to flux core; but as a novice I never would have spent the money on a good MIG. In fact, at the time of my life when I began using this flux core welder, I didn't have the money to spend on a MIG. Fortunately, I didn't have to. A flux core welder is a useful beginner's option. Once you're confident that welding is a skill you can continue to develop, then a MIG is the next obvious step.
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Philo, if you are looking to paint your truck inexpensively, you might look into making a spray booth out of 2-inch PVC and painters plastic. I built a "spray cube" in my garage, but if you have a stable place outside and compatible weather (no rain or wind) it can also be done outside. Using it keeps contaminants to a minimum. That said, there is no substitute for experience.
As has been said many times, preparation is key, but so is the willingness to do the hard work and wet-sand and buff a "finished" product. Experienced painters may be able to lay a seriously smooth final coat, but for most of us DIYers, a full evenly coated surface needs to be wet-sanded before buffing to give it an acceptable "street shine". I painted the cab of my 85. After a few uncertain moments I was able to give it a new lease on life. (Still waiting to have the time to do the bed; life gets complicated.)
Once I shot the paint, I was disappointed to see a huge amount of orange peel. I didn't know how bad it could look until I saw it in my own project. But I bit the bullet and grabbed my sanding block, some sandpaper and a small bucket of water. MANY man-hours later, I was rewarded with what I deemed very acceptable results (remember, it was my first paint job).
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I'm going to have to have the body work done. But will probably paint myself. I will be getting a good sprayer and using a tarp type shelter. No dust no wind or bugs.
Weird though, if it comes out great, then great. But if not, i'll be fine with that. As long as it doesnt look hidious. I'm more towards a mechanicly perfectly smooth running truck and complete absense of corrosion and rust than a shiny smooth paint job.
Ever see a preservation on a classic vehicle vs. a restoration? A preservation is an old looking vehicle thats perfect. I would love that.
Here is a 69 f-100 that has been preserved. Clear coat over original paint.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/1492d8275c3000d305f916f9604f3fd0.jpg)
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Getting full body restoration done. 10k. All planned out.
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Good for you!!! ;D
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Very interested to see the results!
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Here's the deal, since i cant afford 10 bucks. Up the road from me is a ice house business, but the owner has an awesome new body shop, which is something he does on the side, high end stuff. Anyway, i came up with a plan. I asked if i could get the bodywork and paint done. BUUUUTTT,,"how about if i work for free at the ice house until paid off?" He said we could work something out. Looks like i'll be working saturdays in 2017. Cant wait to post results. He said we could paint it the original color if i want, 1977 seamist green.
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What did you just get yourself into lol...
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Its either that or i get some bondo from walmart and a gallon of paint and a sprayer from tractor supply and do a hack job. Lol
When the smoke clears, i'll finally have that show room new look. 1977 factory roll out model. Lol
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I worry about you sometimes lol
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You should...lol
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Ok, my 77 bonanza is going in for full bodywork and paint. We're going right down to the frame. Not quite a frame-off but close. We are going with the original factory color, seamist green. Its going in right after the first of the year. Should take about 4-6 weeks. Out of pocket about $1000. I struck a major deal and caught a huge break,,,which i have been looking for for a long time. Need to buy a winter beater.
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That's great news.
Who did you find to do the work?
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Well one shop wanted 5k for just painting only!! This place i'm going to doesnt advertise, all local word of mouth. They have a regular business and in the back they recently built a brand new modern body shop. The great part is, they are right up the road in town, small town where folks help out each other. I'll be "working off" the bulk of the payment doing odd jobs on the property. The whole job probably will total about 4k. So there is definitely some favor and trust here.
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Going in a couple of weeks for full bodywork and paint. I'm thinking of the original 1977 seamist green (nice old man factory look). However, I remember some car shows over the summer and just saw a truck on Mecum auction where the paint was like a satin black. Shiny, but not glossy. It looked really nice. Any opinions on how that might look on my 77? I figure paint the rims black too and keep the original dog-dish hub caps. Not sure if I want to keep trim or not. Maybe just on the wheel wells.
If anyone has a truck with this black satin paint, please post pic.
ps. I'd probably be converting to the small sporty mirrors too, only if I went black.
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You can achieve that look in your back yard with a few cans of rustoleum. Why pay a body shop to do something like that? Keep it green
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Good point.
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In about 2 weeks, full body work and paint. Going to make a couple changes. Going for an even more original look. You'll see.
BTW- anyone recommend a good tough spray-in bed liner?
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Line-X. I've seen others, Line-X is best, if your gonna do it, do it right. It's worth the money.
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Line-X. I've seen others, Line-X is best, if your gonna do it, do it right. It's worth the money.
Thanks, i'll check that out.
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It looks like they do it at their locations. I need to get something and have my auto body guy apply at the time the truck gets painted. Dont want to drive someplace else and pay extra.
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If he owns a body shop his paint supplier can get him some. I would assume he has a Keystone LKQ account. They sell the Kesytone, SEM, Dominion liners and in tintable formulas.
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I will certainly check on that. I do like the SEM product.
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I was really looking into monstaliner and once I was ready to order it and do it myself, my dad booked an appointment with the linex guy and said that he would pay because he thought I wouldn't be happy with the monstaliner so my truck bed is linex and I like it but I think monstaliner would have been nice too
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Havnt heard of that one but i'll check it.
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I'm getting a set of original oem wheel covers (I call them hub caps) but anyway, of course they are not in mint cond., so what is the best way to paint these? Is there a special paint, they're not exactly chrome, more like stainless steel I guess. Should I have the shop paint them, truck is going in one week for full bodywork and paint anyway. Or is it best to just use a rattle can?
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Why do they need to be painted?
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Why do they need to be painted?
Well, the website stated that they are used and MAY have fading, blemishes etc.
But your right, they may be fine. I have not seen them yet, they're sending me the best 4 they have. We'll see..
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Typically they are just polished stainless, if aluminum(I doubt) they may need to be re-anodized, if steel, then clear coated or re-chromed steel is easier and cheaper to paint if it needs touch-up
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then wait and see what you get
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Saturday morning 9am, full body resto. begins. Going for an even more factory look. I know, thats a boring look for most. But i love it.
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Saw a 68-72 Chevy this morning, original faded paint , rust here and there, old bed cap, white walls and hubcaps-green to boot. Looked awesome. Sometimes stock is the way to go.
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Saw a 68-72 Chevy this morning, original faded paint , rust here and there, old bed cap, white walls and hubcaps-green to boot. Looked awesome. Sometimes stock is the way to go.
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Hey, i hear ya man. Love that gen. I attend a lot of car shows in the summer. I usually walk past the modified stuff, although some are pretty cool, but i always look for the all stock stuff. Most over 40 can appreciate...
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A few things revealed themselves, ordered a ton of new parts.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/8edc6897304c3e40562e6b81279fba36.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/f1631ee3c142f14dbbf0543e97586723.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/1623f53415ce6f29f33087144e381f40.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/7b41e90cb473afc0606a4bab3e1f1848.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/1df626437f23d3cb7ae858b88712f874.jpg)
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Are you painting it green and white? Going full old man or what?
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Are you painting it green and white? Going full old man or what?
hahahahaha.
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You should do this!
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Wow. It's been a while since I seen one like that! Genuine imitation woodgrain.
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I love that yellow and woodgrain look. One of my favorites. If i had a 73 GMC i probably would. Did the chevy trucks put out that color combo?
Oh, and yes i'm going even older man than it was. Going with the factory original color. Seamist green.
Couple of surprises too...
Oh, and i need a couple of "Bonanza 10" fender emblems, only a couple on ebay and not that good.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/530bb547b74a1faae89f26c15792e77f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/37fa3260d1a86e3ff450a1f7d5eb7427.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/0e5572772cb74880747e6b7d1c7c3c79.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/82c4c945308adcf1c5f32360e486abd0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/3626f7f414345315d03301950ab247ea.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/5b009bfa665e39e691a2f5047cdb3785.jpg)
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I know its been mentioned, but is this type of antenna recommended over the windshield type? Where would i mount it? We're putting in a new windshield and i need to decide on the original windshield style or a body mount style antenna. Fyi, i'm not into playing music and all that high tech stero stuff. I use all original equip,,,radio and speaker.
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Definitely windshield. I wouldn't want to drill a hole in the sheet metal, especially w/a option you've described.
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Windshield antenna all day long
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Ok, thats what i figured. Thanks. Oh, BTW, i forgot to post the pic.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/fd1cc036422f12bb5308ebf275e38ec3.jpg)
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I would opt for the windshield antenna, but an option is to run a wire to the bed and make a bracket to mount it off the front panel using the existing bolts-seen it done with CB whip antennas. He didn't want any extra holes either and ran the wire right through a grommet in one of the floor plugs.
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Does anyone have these in metal, stainless or chrome?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/a9cce46b5887f5b3f7f9670192ed9478.jpg)
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Here you go. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/351861060653?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
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Such a bargain! Lol
All of a sudden plastic aint so bad.
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What's wrong with yours?
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Mine are fine, but they are reproduction plastic. I'm looking for some metal ones.
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I looked all over the interwebs and couldn't find any metal ones. Granted mine are the 79-80 Suburban ones, but still, I was surprised I could only find plastic ones. >:(
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Yup, why the blazes dont they just make metal ones and charge a few more bucks? Somebody needs to do something about that.
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If you want metal ones just fix up some metal ones and rechrome them.
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Do we have a place near us that does that? Re-chrome?
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There are many places around that chrome and even spray chrome effect for other materials.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/c906d10376573cc106014b63ef81b2a6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/f2d1c46b0c9fde4ad80d89fe6bd4a56c.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/d8e5eeb46b5a2bc3162d25cc4c553578.jpg)
VZ, while the bed is off, cleaning up the exhaust and painting black. I know you hate the white. (actually light gray). I think the black is much better.
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You must be excited to get it lookin good
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Very exited! Good news is, after its painted i'll be putting ALL the parts back on myself. That way i can take my time, make sure everything goes on correcty, and in a nice big heated shop. Oh, btw, all but one fender shim was used, maybe he didnt need one...being an aftermarket fender and all. Although it appears to be quality.
Question: have you heard of hoods starting to fold near where the hinge bracket bolts on? Mine has a small kink, but not that bad, how can i strengthen that? (Without hood replacement)
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They are designed to fold there. Google 73-80 hood brace and you will find kits to help stiffen up the hood.
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In addition, if the hinge pins are very worn, the additional pull required to close the hood can cause it to fold inboard of the hinges. It is good practice to push the hood back toward the windshield while pulling down to help decrease stress on the hood.
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and if they do that I would replace the hinges. They are cheap enough
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Exactly
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one thing i did after my mud truck bent was to close from the side of the hood right before the bend. once they bend theyll only keep bending till you brace it or replace it.
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I guess i'll brace it AND close it carefully.
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Really? After all that work you're going to blow off replacing a pair of hood hinges? :o
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Not only that but do you really want to have to constantly walk around pressing each corner of the hood down? Definitely replace them if they're giving the issues because now is the time to do it!
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DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! hahaha
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Ok, will do!!
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Not only that but do you really want to have to constantly walk around pressing each corner of the hood down? Definitely replace them if they're giving the issues because now is the time to do it!
Yes
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Not only that but do you really want to have to constantly walk around pressing each corner of the hood down? Definitely replace them if they're giving the issues because now is the time to do it!
Well, i'm not sure they are giving the issues. I always thought the hood was easy to close. I believe someone before me perhaps closed it once a little too quickly. Only one side has a small begining of a kink. However i did get some quality heavy duty white lithium grease, which i intend to work in heavily.
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i know on my truck after it stated to bend and was bent i lubed the hinges just with wd and it allowed it to close with no issues but once the hinges started to get harder it would just bend the hood again
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If you keep them lubed you'll be fine in unless they are worn out at the hinge points they will pop up at the hinges as was mentioned.
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The way the hinges were designed on these trucks, the hinge pins are not large enough, they possess insufficient load bearing surface area, to accommodate the high tension of the springs, so the pivot points wear rapidly. Due to high spring tension operating through the fixed location of hinge levers, the brunt of spring force is always applied to only one side of the pins and their associated journals. The pins and journals are where the gross wear occurs. Keeping the hinges lubed will slow the process, but not arrest wear. With increasing wear, the load bearing surfaces of the pins and journals become semicircular and non-concentric allowing the levers to gradually shift, causing the hinges to bind more and more until the hood buckles.
Excluding collisions, hood buckling is evidence for poor maintenance and accumulated wear of the hinges. As previously stated, pushing the hood toward the base of the windshield while pulling down to close the hood will help compensate for minor wear and even increase hinge life if accompanied by regular maintenance. But once the hood buckles, typically, the hinges should be replaced as part of the repair. Adding braces after-the-fact without replacing the hinges is applying a band-aid. And, installing weaker springs is dicey with a heavy steel hood. Hence, I recommend hinges and braces together, followed by regular maintenance.
Philo, with all of the attention, effort and money you have invested in your truck to have a proud vehicle, it appears illogical to disregard the evidence and avoid such a simple and relatively inexpensive solution. ...Just trying to look out for your best interest.
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Thanks bd. I guess i'll go with new hinges.
Does the site store have hood hinges? I couldnt find them.
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Yes we sell hood hinges. The 73-80 versions are about $50 per side. Email me if you don't see them and I will add them.
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170208/5c8bbea7d92b2c8fbb8cbfb6033d25f3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170208/8b87a7a7a53960998fdbe16daeab1350.jpg)
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Is the gas cap supposed to be the same color as the bed?
Didnt know the part you grab to turn was plastic, the grinding wheel sure did a job on it while getting off the old paint. May have to get a new one and paint.
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You can either have it stainless in color or paint it. You can take it apart and paint the cap cover.
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At $9.99 i think i'll get a new one. I may swap the center piece out, or just buff the new one and paint it. The old one is all ready to paint.
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You have the correct hood without the raised front section, which is good.
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You have the correct hood without the raised front section, which is good.
I do? Not sure what you mean. Show me an incorrect one.
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You have the correct hood without the raised front section, which is good.
I do? Not sure what you mean. Show me an incorrect one.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?PHPSESSID=7c471ef9809564907282a376bd6c32a7&topic=11847.0
Look at post #9
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What am i missing here? My hood and the one on post #9 in that thread look the same.
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The hood has an added detail in later years 78-80 and in the replacement hoods have it as well.
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Look here:
(http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m387/rebel_cowboy_83/Diagram/RightFrontClip5_zps2ed4bde3.jpg)
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Ok, I see the difference, although not sure how blazer74 knew that, you can't see the center in the pic I posted. Is there another pic of my hood somewhere?
Not so sure, you can see my hood pretty clear in reply #70.
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They even explain it here, in the description. This one is sold by C.I.
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/truck/parts/t70097.html
I do have the raised center piece, my hood is incorrect. right? :-\
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Stock hoods are divided by the following
73-78
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/hoods/73-78hood.jpg)
79-80
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/hoods/79-80hood.jpg)
This is the difference:
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/hoods/79-80hooddiff.jpg)
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34429.0
if on the very front of the hood. look about 1" from the hoods body line you can see a little raise only in the front much like where some hoods have the chrome strip just on the front of the hood
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They even explain it here, in the description. This one is sold by C.I.
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/truck/parts/t70097.html
I do have the raised center piece, my hood is incorrect. right? :-\
Wrong
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Good then, i'm wrong- yet correct.
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Anyway, enough on hoods. Heading up to the shop tomorrow and i believe starting to put some parts back on the cab, or getting the bed prepped.
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I looked all over the interwebs and couldn't find any metal ones. Granted mine are the 79-80 Suburban ones, but still, I was surprised I could only find plastic ones. >:(
Quick update on this, i called classic parts and they said theirs were metal, i think stainless. Almost sounds too good to be true. (Headlight bezel).
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Let us know how you make out with that
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Got a lot of cab parts put on. Slow going. Windshield arriving this week as well as rear glass. Had to get new side markers and tail light lenses.
After we installed the rad support bushings, door nearly hit fender when closing. Need to make adjustment somehow. That was the setback of the day. The hood has a slight rise where it meets the fenders. More anxiety there,
!
However, the door parts went on okay, whoopie!
Oh, btw here is my "correct hood"
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/c5d843773222766e38f052b864e19246.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/cc4dcd64f0ae0e9f074ae6e7792a4a5c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/28743528171657226a979391529db339.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/f5a76947b0d79e1e0faa7fca017f72ed.jpg)
And can anyone explain these? Chevy? Dodge? What year?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/b93ef45aae08adb4c957dca1230b8cf8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170212/7243c017bca45f67435f90fc60988de7.jpg)
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Mating the fender and door to get nice fitment requires hours and hours of pretrial fitment and body work otherwise you just have to deal with gaps to achieve clearance. You are at a point where you just need to line it up as best you can. The hood hinges are adjustable and take a lot of trial and error to get it right. As far as the mirror base, not sure what you are asking. Chevy and Dodge used the same mirror base but Dodge offered them in power mirrors although the arm is slightly longer.
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Dodge Mirror
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Is my pic a dodge mirror? See how the front cover hase a flat side? The shop guy had two brand new oem nos ones, said i could have for free. No box or labels though.
Nevermimd i looked it up, dang!! They're dodge base covers. Oh well, at least i can use the mounting plates. My mirrors are fine anyway. The words NOS and free dont come around often. Lol
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Good Info about the dodge mirrors
My passenger one come out of adjustment every time you slam the door
Some electric ones would be nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Does anyone out there use the dodge ones?
Or is it strictly forbidden?
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Good Info about the dodge mirrors
My passenger one come out of adjustment every time you slam the door
Some electric ones would be nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Easy enough to tighten up so they won't move when you slam the door...
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Did some models/years come with carpet below the door panel? I know many have nothing at all there. Mine has carpet, wondering if factory or not.
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Upper trim levels had the carpet.
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
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Installed my new antenna adapter, from radio to the button piece. Terrible access! Had to remove the dash pad and speaker!
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Little more progress today.
No front or rear glass yet, did end up with 2 new OEM mirrors though, shop owner had them in storage.
Bed is in progress, rusty jones took a long coffee break.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/fd51405083b985a7685d88e0a9564f73.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/13f908c1ea7c4bb8d0822ba62ea780ff.jpg)
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looking good
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looking good
Thanks!! (miss the white truck)
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looking good
Thanks!! (miss the white truck)
Do I? or you miss it?
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Looking nice.
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looking good
Thanks!! (miss the white truck)
Do I? or you miss it?
I think we all miss it, i know you must.
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Looking nice.
Thanks man, really do appreciate it.
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looking good
Thanks!! (miss the white truck)
Do I? or you miss it?
I think we all miss it, i know you must.
Yea I do. In due time.
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Looking good! Are you putting the body trim back on?
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Not all of the trim is going back on.
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Does it take special skill to install rear glass and rubber seal? The glass company wants a little over $600 for both front and rear, and with my own rear gasket.
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$600 to install your glass or new glass they are supplying?
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All new glass.
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All new glass or just front and rear glass? Is it a rear slider?
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Front and rear only, no slider, plain.
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Get a price from A&R 413-569-6522 You can tell him I referred you.
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The truck looks great.
Keep the updates coming.
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Thanks VZ, i'll give them a call.
..and thanks fitz!
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I'm noticing some headlight bezels for my year, 77, among others, that are like a satin black on the inner part. Is the black factory?
But not all are black, whats the deal?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/68ac5b677d4db00c10eaf5b203f82236.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/6a3b7974d1d61c8daf639808848e3198.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/25051d3658973ddf88845f142ee6a192.jpg)
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Grey, Black, Argent, paint to match or chrome the whole bezel.
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I guess its already kind of "argent" right?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170223/6bfd1b6f7a20bf129c2331b178a19f5c.jpg)
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Yup, argent silver, I personally never liked the full chrome ones, needs something to break up the view.
Truck is looking awesome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks 67 Kaiser, appreciate..
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Slight update:
Bed panels arrive friday, new glass goes in on monday.
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You are replacing the bedsides? They weren't that bad were they?
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You are replacing the bedsides? They weren't that bad were they?
Actually not the whole side, but a large section that goes around the wheel well, where most trucks rust. I'll post some pics of the nasty parts.
Can i coat the back-side of the new panels with chassy-coat,,or something better you recommend?
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Truck is looking great.
Are they going to weld in the bed patch panels or use the adhesive?
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I believe weld. Why, is adhesive better.
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I believe weld. Why, is adhesive better.
I'm not sure . I've never used the adhesive, but looking at my welds, the glue might be better.
From what I've read online, they both have a place in the autobody world.
Hopefully one of our autobody guys will chime in.
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Panel bond adhesive has many advantages over welding, corrosion protection, not overheating the metal, warpage etc. So if you do it correctly it can be a lot less work with better results. Run the edge through the bead roller, test fit it, screw it in place, remove it, glue it, screw it.
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I couldnt find that 3m body shmutzie stuff. So i scuffed real good and went with chassy saver. It applied real well and goes a long way. 8 oz. can. $17. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170225/0c1902dc85326d416be9e794eafaf4e2.jpg)
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Just the corrosion prone areas.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170225/dbbfa1e21db78ebcdf2bf3a3aeba3ad0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170225/474b0ad005e7d35a4defc56b5c8e0d06.jpg)
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You should do the whole panel unless you intend to top coat it.
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Since i have plenty left over, i guess i will. It was easy to get a good scuff on it with 80 grit. But man i'll tell ya, that chassy saver is tuff stuff! Now that its fully dry, i cant even scratch it off with a screwdriver, and i just did one thin coat! It even adhered really well to the unscuffed spots.
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Glass is in! What a professional job, the guy did everything right and knows classic vehicles. Thanks to VZ and his auto glass connection the job was done right!
And no more ugly spot wher the antenna buttons on.
Oh, and we adjusted the hood after, that gap you see is much better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170227/4e5e08cb7d6c36ed715eff7275895600.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170227/7014e2ae518a9eb3463062a7ef14cd52.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170227/5be13fcb3bb1c5c44f73ae31711b4eaf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170227/693b412dab5d86c9877455b4f699323c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170227/793fb15b9432ca0be6b258626b51d0ed.jpg)
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Nice! Glad to hear that. Yeah I've been using those guys for years. What color is that? It's hard to tell
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very nice.
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This makes me want all new glass
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
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Nice! Glad to hear that. Yeah I've been using those guys for years. What color is that? It's hard to tell
The glass is a retro green tint with a dark shade band acros the top of the windshield. Rear glass is also a natural green tint.
He even replaced the rearview mirror correctly. And the radio comes in much better with a brand new button and cable.
If you mean the body paint, its the original factory color, seamist green.
Its all bed work now. I'm nervous as to how it will come out. We are using this bed liner, he showed me a truck that has it, real tuff stuff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170228/6a349cda3b862ca2ed3f8700f9db90da.jpg)
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very nice.
Thanks LTZ, VZ said when i hit the lottery i can do the steering and front end system. Lol
I know you just went through all that, i'll probably hit you up with a few questions when i get there.
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very nice.
Thanks LTZ, VZ said when i hit the lottery i can do the steering and front end system. Lol
I know you just went through all that, i'll probably hit you up with a few questions when i get there.
no problem. hit me up anytime.
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U-Pol Raptor liner is what I will use-it has the best reviews, most recommendations. As a DIY liner it is too grade. No Line-X, but pretty close.
Loving the truck, can't wait to see the finished product.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks Kaiser...soon i hope, should be posting some "done" photos
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Oh, BTW, looking for some "Bonanza 10" fender emblems. The catalogs have everything but...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170301/4c504375181b16bc254b613d8d92166e.jpg)
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Nice but where are the new wheel covers?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bonanza-10-Fender-Emblem-for-78-79-Chevy-Truck-/282346201664?hash=item41bd252240:g:FHsAAOSwo4pYEhYr&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-80-GM-Chevrolet-Bonanza-10-Fender-Emblem-Part-No-363181-Vintage-/112308400759?hash=item1a261a3277:g:6OAAAOSwLEtYgRNd&vxp=mtr
Buy these and restore them.
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VZ, the first one is real nice. The second listing...that one needs some work,,,and is more expensive. I may buy the first one at least. Thanks
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Nice but where are the new wheel covers?
Yeah, yeah....those are on my list!!
1. Fender emblems, $40-50 each
2. Sill plate cover set, $50
3. Lower door panel carpet, $40
4. Wheel covers, $100 for set
5. Wheel spacers, $100 for set
Loan me $400!
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Nice but where are the new wheel covers?
Yeah, yeah....those are on my list!!
1. Fender emblems, $40-50 each
2. Sill plate cover set, $50
3. Lower door panel carpet, $40
4. Wheel covers, $100 for set
5. Wheel spacers, $100 for set
Loan me $400! 
My bad, I thought you already had them...NM
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VZ, the first one is real nice. The second listing...that one needs some work,,,and is more expensive. I may buy the first one at least. Thanks
Make him a low ball offer. All he can say is yes or no right? I'll keep my eye out too
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VZ, the first one is real nice. The second listing...that one needs some work,,,and is more expensive. I may buy the first one at least. Thanks
Make him a low ball offer. All he can say is yes or no right? I'll keep my eye out too
Ok, i'll give it a try. And thanks..
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I'm waiting for my daily update on your truck.
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One daily update:
All bed...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/3d0f88c6215c3b69f984cebc4cea7500.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/6d4de4a3bb156c6036c2fcdb8bb2c723.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/eeff87d81722904e81a2ec6ebc6d3696.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/fdb0cc651a36da092be5a453945b395f.jpg)
By the end of the day tmrw (sat) the bed should be ready for primer. I got the tailgate all sanded out and ready to go. There was not a speck of rust on it. I'll get a few better pics tomorrow.
For the record, the beer is NOT mine.
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did he use panel bond or weld it in?
I didn't see any beer, just a can of water
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I didn't see any beer, just a can of water
Vile,
I can deal with you trucks being nicer than mine, but to insult my favorite beer, that hurts, lol.
I actually went back to look for the "water bottle".
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Weld, but did a goid job. I agree, blue can of water. When i drank beer that was the worst beer on earth. I was a sam adams regular.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/19e05e356a22755977cb6fee4d08196b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/9958cd94429ef6521c19f52e76709c2f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170304/e9a0b371f4ae4dcd8c78bf1f6bad74b1.jpg)
Also, getting the new wheel arch trim on. Of course only a few holes line up. Good fit otherwise, surprisingly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/195311776be06454d30659448c5c0009.jpg)
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Looks great. I'm enjoying the updates.
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looks good. Coors Banquet for the win.
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Thanks! I do appreciate. A week or so ought to do it.
I snuck in a pic of that "57 ford fairlane 500. They are just starting a restoration on.
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Good Info about the dodge mirrors
My passenger one come out of adjustment every time you slam the door
Some electric ones would be nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Easy enough to tighten up so they won't move when you slam the door...
Link to instructions ?
I can't even figure out how to get the cover removed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I didn't see any beer, just a can of water
Vile,
I can deal with you trucks being nicer than mine, but to insult my favorite beer, that hurts, lol.
I actually went back to look for the "water bottle".
lol we all need to watch our figures as we get older
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Good Info about the dodge mirrors
My passenger one come out of adjustment every time you slam the door
Some electric ones would be nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Easy enough to tighten up so they won't move when you slam the door...
Link to instructions ?
I can't even figure out how to get the cover removed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You take the one screw out at the bottom, it's pretty straight forward. Pull towards you and up.
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Cover off what, a 73-87 door mirror?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/884f66dcf30e47666038390c272feffa.jpg)
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Weld, but did a goid job. I agree, blue can of water. When i drank beer that was the worst beer on earth. I was a sam adams regular.
Once you start drinking the stronger or darker and high gravity beers there is no going back.
The Truck will definitely need to be a winter garage Queen.
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Yes, they say i created a monster. Now i need a winter beater, build a large shop/garage, and give even more attention to the green queen.
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Yup, argent silver, I personally never liked the full chrome ones, needs something to break up the view.
Truck is looking awesome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know it's a few pages back but I was just updating myself on the progress. Mine were chrome, maybe the paint was worn off, I don't know, but I didn't like it. Painted them a flat silver and it looked a lot better. Next time around I was going to paint them black after re chrome. I don't have them anymore tho. When my girlfriend's brother was putting his truck back together after it came back from the body shop after a bad accident. The insurance paid for a lot of replacement parts but the new bezels were cheap plastic. Since I quit driving my truck since I bought the 02 and I don't know when I'll get to drive the truck again, I donated my headlight buckets and bezels to him. His truck has a huge sentimental and family value and mine where GM pieces. I wanted to help him have his truck back to as good as it was, before his accident it was an accident free truck it's whole life. So eventually one day in the future I will have to find new bezels for mine. They were the 79 bezels too so a little harder to get.
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Yah, i tend to agree, my grill, whoops...grille has that argent look as well as the inner bezel. But the surrounding chrome shows up nice.
The only place that has metal bezels that i foud was classic parts. I had to call them to verify. Even tho the plastic "looks" fine, the plastic bothers me.
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BTW, i found this 2000 for sale, asking $3.5k. I cant find any rust on it, top to bottom. What does anyone think. (As an alternate winter truck)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/b7fe8e2451a2a38b55b6313b8ead7985.jpg)
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what motor? 4.8 forget about it.
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what motor? 4.8 forget about it.
Not sure, 4x4 though. Z71. Gotta have at least a 6. .....right?
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Just get the VIN
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The 4.8L is fine for a beater to me...
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if it looks good and the milage is low enough and it's a Z71, no reason it shouldn't be a good truck. There is nothing wrong with the 4.8L v8. For what you would use the truck for, it will suit you fine.
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guessing its a 2000. the 6.0 afaik wasnt available in them. so you have the 4.3, 4.8 and 5.3. i would assume it came with the 5.3 all the z71 ive seen tahoes came with the 5.3 (nothing bigger) or crew cab with a 6.0
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It is a 2000, zoom in on the windshield. Upper left corner. "00"
Sure wish it had the extended cab.
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6.0s came in 3/4, 1 ton, Yukon denali , Sierra denali, Silverado SS, 1500 HD, Vortec Max, Cadillac Escalade models, some corvettes, SSR sport trucks and Silverado/ Tahoe Hybrids. if it's not one of those, it doesn't get a 6.0. I think that's all of them.
most likely that is a 4.8 or 5.3, being a 1500, short box standard cab, I would lean more towards 4.8. nothing wrong with it. there is only 1/2 a liter between the 5.3 and the 4.8, obviously not a huge jump. not worth the worry. you would never notice the difference between the two. remember a 4.8 = 289ci, 5.3 = 327ci, 6.0 = 383ci roughly. For comparison, the 6.6 Duramax would be a 400ci right? the old small block 400s were 6.6L, but the dmax is actually 396ci. An 8.1L is a 496ci, up a good jump from old 454s which are 7.4L.
so I wouldn't sweat the 4.8, if you don't have extensive experience with all of these engines, you will never notice a difference between 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, something.whatever or he says.she says. Hahaha. if you like it and it fits the bill, do it.
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It is a 2000, zoom in on the windshield. Upper left corner. "00"
Sure wish it had the extended cab.
So then you should probably look for an extended cab or maybe an SUV? I love my Jeeps
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In the process of wire brushing and cleaning up the frame. This part is on my leaf spring, noticed a little corroded, where can i get one? Couldnt find in catalogs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/44b235a7ffde9eb4f8867e08e3727fc1.jpg)
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i have a 4.8 and shes a dog granted it has over 200k but my buddy got an 02 back in 04 or something like that with a 4.8 and it could get out of its way but even he agrees theyre turds. im only getting 5.3 if its in a tahoe or a 6.0 or diesel in a crew cab. my truck Blue books for a little above 4k and to be honest i wouldnt pay 2.5k not even sure i would pay 2k
some specs
4.8
285 hp (213 kW) @ 5400 RPM SAE Certified
295 lb.-ft. (400 Nm) @ 4600 RPM SAE Certified
5.3
310 hp (231 kW) @ 5200 RPM SAE Certified
334 lb.-ft. (453 Nm) @ 4500 RPM SAE Certified
5.3 (2006+)
320 hp (239 kW) @ 5400 RPM SAE Certified
335 lb.-ft (454 Nm) @ 4000 RPM SAE Certified
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It is a 2000, zoom in on the windshield. Upper left corner. "00"
Sure wish it had the extended cab.
So then you should probably look for an extended cab or maybe an SUV? I love my Jeeps
Right, i miss my 94 cherokee. However, i need a good size bed to fit 4 bikes in, and the extra cab or 4 doors for the two kids.
A 4 bike- rack seems a bit much, although they do make them. Hmm
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They dont even show that leaf spring bracket here. Its the sleeve i need the rest is fine. I can get the bolt anywhere.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/b0a3177c651a2785c79f4b343490149e.jpg)
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i would go to a spring shop for that. i dont think that catalog even has the center pin.
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Ok, its called a leafspring clamp.
There are some out there, but i have not seen with the long round sleeve like in my pic.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-Spring-Clamps-2-1-4-Inch-Wide-Leaf-Spring,37853.html?sku=91033203&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CJ3188yQzNICFYmIswodzTkDlQ
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It is a 2000, zoom in on the windshield. Upper left corner. "00"
Sure wish it had the extended cab.
So then you should probably look for an extended cab or maybe an SUV? I love my Jeeps
Right, i miss my 94 cherokee. However, i need a good size bed to fit 4 bikes in, and the extra cab or 4 doors for the two kids.
A 4 bike- rack seems a bit much, although they do make them. Hmm
I have a bike rack that goes in the trailer hitch. Works mint
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Yeah, the hitch mounted bike rack is the way to go for safety and strength. I'm familiar with the Cherokees, but what other models/years do you like and approve of?
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I love the WJ's and have 3 of them right now although one I'm putting up for sale this weekend. My DD is an 04 Grand Cherokee, V8, 5 speed Auto, 4x4, 2" lift. Nice interior, great sound system, big cargo area and the seats fold down to increase that capacity. I bought one of those cargo carriers too and there's a roof rack so you can always add one of those ugly torpedoes too. Parts are relatively cheap and they go forever.
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That sleeve on the bolt and spring clamp is just a simple sleeve/spacer, any good hardware store should have a few to choose from that will fit.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
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Ok, thanks 67 kaiser.
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That spacer is to prevent clamping the springs so tight together they don't slide, you do want the clamp tight to the pack to prevent overspreading/seperation, but not so tight they can't move.
The sheet metal clamps that typically come with overload springs, or DIY kits, are weak enough to allow movement, even if they were hammered tight to the spring.
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In the process of wire brushing and cleaning up the frame. This part is on my leaf spring, noticed a little corroded, where can i get one? Couldnt find in catalogs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/44b235a7ffde9eb4f8867e08e3727fc1.jpg)
If I had known you needed those I would have saved mine. I just dumped all my old suspension parts. Contact General Spring, believe they are in Kansas if I remember correctly, they should be able to help you. They make new ones for all their leaf spring packs and that's where I bought my new spring packs from.
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I do all my spring work with these guys. They'll make you u-bolts, straps whatever you need
http://www.superspringandbrake.com/
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Thanks VZ, i'll take a ride over there next week.
LTZ, thanks also. I'll try the place VZ mentioned, its right in our neighborhood.
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Update: cleaned up the frame a little.
Had a lot of gunk to scrape before applying the chassy saver. However, the built up gunk is what saved the frame all these years. Used a lot of purple power.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/6fb1e93290908589ae321261215e1724.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/48f89bc33656ab3b0c8838c83863c150.jpg)
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Very nice, you will be doing some sort of undercoating again right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Very nice, you will be doing some sort of undercoating again right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You mean like soak everything in fluid film, or standard undercoating spray?
I was actually thinking of using the rustoleum heavy duty undercoating, unless someone knows of something better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/e15ebeead7356755a6d4a35899c6a7f4.jpg)
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Thanks VZ, i'll take a ride over there next week.
LTZ, thanks also. I'll try the place VZ mentioned, its right in our neighborhood.
Your not hurting my feelings! lol
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Very nice, you will be doing some sort of undercoating again right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You mean like soak everything in fluid film, or standard undercoating spray?
I was actually thinking of using the rustoleum heavy duty undercoating, unless someone knows of something better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/e15ebeead7356755a6d4a35899c6a7f4.jpg)
I thought you were doing everything in chasis saver? Why go over it with undercoating? I top coated mine with spray on bed liner using the shutz gun. Body shutz is better than undercoating.
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Thinking some sort of oil, I'm not a fan of rubberized undercoatings, they tend to chip and water gets trapped under neath,
I know your looking to keep it out of the salt, but even a little bit of protection goes a long way.
I feel chassis saver is very good, but really only one part of protection.
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Yeah, i'll get some sort of oil based product on there. I do have access to free fluid film, so....
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We started using fluid film on our shop equipment, it seems to work all right, we'll see how well it works out after a few more years, but it does seem to help.
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Fluid film doesnt dry or crack off, it also serves as a lubricant. First time i used it, was wondering why it smelled kinda milky or dairyish. Then i see it has natural lanolin in it.
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I could see using it on your plow truck but why in the world would you put that on your truck?
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I didn't see any beer, just a can of water
Vile,
I can deal with you trucks being nicer than mine, but to insult my favorite beer, that hurts, lol.
I actually went back to look for the "water bottle".
If the german imports were more affordable, that would be my preference. But since they're a bit pricey I stick with a good ol bud light myself.
Sent from my LGL44VL using Tapatalk
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If I have to drink a light beer I'll at least go with a silver bullet. My winter beer of choice is Grolsch but it has to be a swing top. 8)
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I could see using it on your plow truck but why in the world would you put that on your truck?
To prevent rust and corrosion? Do you use anything as a protective barrier? Even keeping the salt off, water still oxidizes.
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Chassis Saver does not need to be top coated. Also do you really want to cake up your freshly cleaned chassis with goop and crud? Keep it clean and it will stay nice forever.
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Good point, since i scraped off nearly an inch of goop and grime before putting on the chassy saver. I finally have a nice clean frame. Want to keeo it that way.
But what about a little fluid film on leaf springs, axle and other non frame surfaces that i didnt chassy coat?
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What is the factory color of the tailgate hinge arms? Same as body color, or argent, silver, gray?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/89f5f3963904edef3cc1a9c7111ac932.jpg)
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Wat iz a chassy?
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Lol!! Chassis!!
Like VZ when people mention grill on a truck forum.
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What is the factory color of the tailgate hinge arms? Same as body color, or argent, silver, gray?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/89f5f3963904edef3cc1a9c7111ac932.jpg)
Well??!!
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Body color
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All of mine always had a layer of primer and paint matching the body color.
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Great, now i know. Thanks, i just wire brushed them real clean. Time for prime and paint.
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Forgot to take pics, did a whole lotta block sanding, but we got it flat and straight, mostly.
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Very nice, you will be doing some sort of undercoating again right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You mean like soak everything in fluid film, or standard undercoating spray?
I was actually thinking of using the rustoleum heavy duty undercoating, unless someone knows of something better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170311/e15ebeead7356755a6d4a35899c6a7f4.jpg)
I thought you were doing everything in chasis saver? Why go over it with undercoating? I top coated mine with spray on bed liner using the shutz gun. Body shutz is better than undercoating.
Just caught this...
Yeah, everything was done in chassis saver, which is my core protection. I also did a thin topcoat with the rustoleum heavy duty undercoat. It still dried real hard and tuff. With a truck that will never see salt, i'm certain my chassis will be clean and rust free for life. Besides, i'm always under there poking around with a flashlight.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/2bc25d8d1ddf13104a95dd062474d945.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/243dd1f8eddc68f249012da42e73a065.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170318/fb1ef4225050f7569d6079bbbae9779f.jpg)
I hate sanding! I tell the shop "its fine, its flat, its straight!!" But i have the untrained eye.
Anyway, beds just about ready for paint.
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Why aren't you wet sanding it?
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Why aren't you wet sanding it?
Doesnt that part come after paint?
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That's how you get an even flat surface without primer clumping up and clogging the paper.
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It DOES get clumpy! But we're near ready for the paint booth.
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So when it clumps on the paper, there is no way for you to ensure a flat surface which is the purpose of blocking. Think of it like this, if you have debris in the sand paper it will create high and low spots leaving you with ripples and imperfections in the final product. The under layer is the foundation which is the most important part of a paint job. The paint is essentially coloring what is underneath so this is where your attention to detail will pay off in the final product.
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Drying the truck takes longer than wet sanding it does.
Do it. Its worth it.
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I did notice small ripples, now that you mention it, and didnt know what they were from. I even kept cleaning the paper with a brush. Okay thanks, i'll be addressing that, and wet sanding.
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Happen to drive by this place today in MA. Thought i was going to see a giant warehouse of of OEM 73-87 parts or at least in there 30 acre yard. No classic vehicle parts!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170321/c4e4c96ab7d0374742daca436c3adfa0.jpg)
Not one screw, bolt or nut!
I remember back in the 80's we could go to any local boneyard and find any classic vehicle part you wanted. I needed the headlight bezel and all the trimmings for my 70 chevelle, walked right in with my tools and helped myself. $20 bucks, all OEM.
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I took a ride out to ABC back in 1992 to get a complete front axle for my 1988 Jimmy. I bent the old 1getting the truck airborne over a jump. It wasn't the smartest thing I've done, but it sure was fun.
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I took a ride out to ABC back in 1992 to get a complete front axle for my 1988 Jimmy. I bent the old 1getting the truck airborne over a jump. It wasn't the smartest thing I've done, but it sure was fun.
Yup, this was the one near Leominster.
And yeah, i've caught air before. In my friends 76 ford torino. This was back in the 80's. fun fun...it was a starsky and hutch car. Wicked cool.
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Haven't been to the shop in a few days, the bed could be painted. Anyway, i need to prep the new gas cap for painting. Tough job.
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Oh boy, there's an all day project ;)
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Lol..new gas cap took about 2 min. Anyway, bed not painted yet, but it looks very ready. Probably tmrw. Will update. Man! I just want to see the bed back where it belongs!!
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The bed has been off of my orange truck for about 2 years now and I haven't even started on it yet. Don't rush it, or you'll stare at saying "I wish...."
Patience grasshopper
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I know..i know.
Note to self: buy another square for when one is off the road.
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I went to the shop tonight and helped with some final touches before it went in for paint. I snuck in a quick pic. This is the first coat right after the primer epoxy sealer dried. Not the best pic as i am standing outside the paint booth door.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/3bd24777375bf3489840029fc08d28d5.jpg)
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Nice
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Better pics.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/d08c1c29359809fe6b12630a69c1f2df.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/49d45e00e5da39b4ab88def967bd6c4e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/00bd91771119eb6d75f1e80ab3b700d0.jpg)
Still need to wet sand and buff.
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Looks good!
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Fantastic!
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Thanks!!
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That truck is coming out great.
Are you buying a square body for a winter vehicle next year?
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looks good. like the color.
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That truck is coming out great.
Are you buying a square body for a winter vehicle next year?
Yes!! I just need to find one. K series. Let me know if you come across anything.
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looks good. like the color.
Thanks, i really love the color. I went with the factory original, seamist green. Dont see it very often.
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That truck is coming out great.
Are you buying a square body for a winter vehicle next year?
Yes!! I just need to find one. K series. Let me know if you come across anything.
Lol. Just like me, only I started with a K series. I have a lifted K so now I want a lowered C.
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looks good. like the color.
Thanks, i really love the color. I went with the factory original, seamist green. Dont see it very often.
yea it looks good.
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Saw this on Facebook
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Green is one of those colors that waxes and wanes in and out of vogue. Like teal - popular for awhile then not, only to become popular again, making periodic appearances. But, that muted tone of the seamist green is an exception. It has a classic appearance that will remain an eye catcher setting its own aesthetic tradition. You did real good! Kudos!
Zieg, that two-tone is another classic combination in its own right.
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Thanks bd, and yeah that 2 tone is sharp.
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Looking good! Are you putting the body trim back on?
No body trim, like that 2 tone. No front side marker or tail-lens trim either. Just all new wheel well trim only. Oh, and no tailgate trim. I know it looks good and all, but its too much to deal with, holds water and dirt, and doesn't help anything mechanically. If it were a car however, then by all means.
I hope at least one square owner out there agrees?
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Keep all of your trim pieces. You will probably change your mind one day.
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Looking good! Are you putting the body trim back on?
No body trim, like that 2 tone. No front side marker or tail-lens trim either. Just all new wheel well trim only. Oh, and no tailgate trim. I know it looks good and all, but its too much to deal with, holds water and dirt, and doesn't help anything mechanically. If it were a car however, then by all means.
I hope at least one square owner out there agrees?
I agree. No trim on mine at all. The only manufacturer ID is the GMC on the tailgate
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Keep all of your trim pieces. You will probably change your mind one day.
I will, and i agree.
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Looking good! Are you putting the body trim back on?
No body trim, like that 2 tone. No front side marker or tail-lens trim either. Just all new wheel well trim only. Oh, and no tailgate trim. I know it looks good and all, but its too much to deal with, holds water and dirt, and doesn't help anything mechanically. If it were a car however, then by all means.
I hope at least one square owner out there agrees?
I agree. No trim on mine at all. The only manufacturer ID is the GMC on the tailgate
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Same here, just chevrolet on the tailgate. I cant find "bonanza 10" fender emblems anywhere. I have the "bonanza 20" emblems, but not correct.
Slim pickins on ebay, if anybody sees or knows of bonanza 10 emblems, be sure to let me know, thanks.
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I'm looking at new sill plates, as i need them, but do these threshold plates come factory, or just a fancy aftermarket accessory?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/84df40fc26db62b97c11bd96c8de163c.jpg)
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aftermarket
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aftermarket
Yeah, thought so. Dont look right. And i've always hated the term "bowtie".
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aftermarket
Yeah, thought so. Dont look right. And i've always hated the term "bowtie".
now that right there just don't make sense? that's what it's been called since the beginning of time lol.
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You hate the term bowtie but like the term squarebody? I don't think there's one right angle anywhere on your truck. Those sill plates are garbage and when they're installed the bowtie is under the seal. The plastic ones or blank stainless ones are better.
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I think it was first the logo, that happened to resemble a bowtie. I need sill plates, but i would never add an accessory, although i do have an aftmkt license plate and a small drink holder on the hump. I was just inquiring about the "threshold plate". That is, if thats what your saying is junk.
Nope, never liked the term bowtie. However, i dont mind squarebody. Go figure...
Some research, but it doesnt say when they started using the actual term "bowtie". But it does go way back.
http://m.chevrolet.com/culture/article/bowtie-history.html
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Why do you need it? Just wondering. I personally like that heavy duty black anti-skid sticker you see on concrete stairs cut to fit to protect the rocker panels.
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So what on your truck is a square? Ford's were more square the Chevy's. GM never called these trucks square body's in fact they were the rounded line which contradicts "square" but the bowtie at least resembles a bowtie.
Yes I was referring to the bowtie sill plates, they do not fit like pictured and aren't worth the hassle
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How did we get the term squarebody. Remember, i'm still new to the 73-87 gen. Only on my 3rd year.
The beds do have a squarish rectangle look and the whole front end really cuts to a square. The grilles are at a 90 degree angle to the hood, as is the nose of the hood.
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All of the body lines are curved, all of the corners slope in, the nose slopes in, everything is rounded especially 73-80 so I don't know. I never called them square body's and I still don't because I do not see them as square and GM never called them that.
Anyway if someone asks you what your truck is do you say it's a 1977 square body? or do you say it's a 1977 C10?
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I remember the term came with the model year change from the 67-72 to 73 and it stuck
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Well, i do see the square blocky appearance, but i also think it looks really cool, i really love the retro look of cars and trucks of the 60's and 70's.
I do say i have a '77 c-10 though. Never use that term except on this site i guess. Good point.
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Anyway...havent been to the shop in a whille. But i was told the bed was wet sanded and buffed, and that tomorrow i can put a few parts on it. Bed liner gets sprayed in late this week, maybe fri or sat. Very exiting, getting butterflies...
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Well, i do see the square blocky appearance, but i also think it looks really cool, i really love the retro look of cars and trucks of the 60's and 70's.
I do say i have a '77 c-10 though. Never use that term except on this site i guess. Good point.
More like a rectangle
Are you spraying in the bedliner yourself? I just did the frame on my orange truck.
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I meant rectangle. The orange is the Mutt right? When my truck is ready i'll swing by some sat when your tinkering around the shop. I know you miss my boring c-10. Lol
Oh, the shop is going to spray in the bed liner.
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Yes, the orange mutt
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Slight update, installed new tail light lenses and backing plates. And new wheel well trim on the bed. Trim fit nice, used all ss screws. Didnt fully tighten lens screws yet, gonna make sure all lights work first.
Bed liner kit should arrive tomorrow, if so bed will get sprayed tmrw night, could be driving saturday! Weather pending.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/71b0aac2617f01594224deb213436b61.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/04deac65556f6811a3d27634a4b3d7f5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/148b77a23cd1b1d25ea02b398485594e.jpg)
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Didn't your truck have the yellow trim?
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No, this was from last year i believe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/83cf3e9dbfa4235a30b22c9400c52b9e.jpg)
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Was about to ask what's attached to your hood.... Then I realize it's a bird house.
I personally would have gone with the trim on the tail lights and front markers, keeps it simple enough, but lends just enough elegance to stay classy. All in moderation, don't chrome it out, but don't stay bland.
Can't wait to see the finished product...although if the weathermen are right, we'll see some snow Friday/Saturday.....probably the only time I'm gonna say I'm sick of seeing the white stuff fall, so ready for spring and warmer weather.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yup, thats one of my many bluebird houses. I still have the option to add that trim. We'll see.
Are you in the new england area?
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Southwest corner of New Hampshire
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Oh, so your near Keene, i'm looking at buying some retirement property near winchester. Or maybe even on the other side of 91 in VT. Your in a nice area.
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Let me rephrase, shouldn't your truck have the yellow trim?
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Let me rephrase, shouldn't your truck have the yellow trim?
I dont know, not sure what yellow trim you mean, can you show me a truck that has it.
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Anyway, raptor didnt arrive yet. Fed-ex was supposed to deliver today, typical. But i did go up to the shop and sprayed fluid film all behind the bed panels, cross-members, etc. i laid that stuff on thick, every nook, cranny and crevice. Re-scuffed some over spray areas in the bed. Its so ready for the spray in liner. So, heading up in the morning and tape the bed then wait for fed-ex.
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Let me rephrase, shouldn't your truck have the yellow trim?
I dont know, not sure what yellow trim you mean, can you show me a truck that has it.
from what i understand the 77 yellow trim is a "one year only" special. instead of being black in the center its yellow, most people wouldnt notice it but ive seen some kids try and troll a guy who did a frame off resto but use non yellow trim for his 77. he thought he was all that cause he made the guy feel bad cause he was claiming it was a frame off resto but either didnt know about the yellow trim or didnt care
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Other than Gentleman Jim, I'm fairly certain no other year came with the yellow trim other than 77.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-77-Chevy-CK123-Truck-LH-Cab-Rear-Upper-Corner-Trim-Mldg-ALL-YELLOW-GM-463633/222328040434
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Ok, i know what you mean now. VZ, if you remember last summer i think i posted some pics somewhere, i found a 77 bonanza c-10, which was really rusty, it was pure stock original, in fact it sat for so long the wheels were like 6" sunk in the ground. I think you were actually interested in it. I inquired and the lady was like 100 yrs old and couldnt even come to the door. Said she was saving it for her son or something. It is still sitting, but thats a yellow trim one. Now that i know what you mean. Very rare. This truck had mint fender emblems that i need!!
As a matter of fact, when no one was looking i took a peek under the hood, then when i went to close the hood, it folded in half! I panicked and had to run around to each side and push it down hard at the hinges. Then i bolted.
Strange thing however, it was not rotted out, just a lot of heavy surface rust. Maybe i'll go back and inquire again.
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LMAO
So you can easily mask and paint your trim to match the 77 color. :o
Persistence pays off, stop by again
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BTW, whats gentelman jim? The 1942 film starring errol flynn??
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Gentleman Jim and Beau James were special edition trucks made for the 70's pickup truck ladies man.
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"Ladies Man" ha! Really cool trucks though.
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Update:
Bedliner was applied this afternoon, came out great. Installing bed in the morning.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170331/2b26962ad4b02937ed0b04e56d64ac8b.jpg)
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Looks good
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The truck is coming out great.
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Thanks! These two are ready for marriage.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/e875983c476defaf6cbaf6a752417e79.jpg)
Now united and complete. I'm done and i'm spent!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/bf56d876dc28dc6be733a6988c45477c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/fc920980949955f90fb53f0b3d0ff8af.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/c4931a877b158fc5f930dbf8911d0469.jpg)
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Should find someone to paint the Chevrolet on the tailgate white, make it pop and matches wheels as well.
Truck looks Awesome!!!
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My buddy's got a line on some nice bonanza 10 fender badges
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My buddy's got a line on some nice bonanza 10 fender badges
Ok, hook me up man!!! Before i convert to a "scottsdale 10". Send me a text on the info. Thanks!
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Out of the shop, brought her home today.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170402/e614f4cb226b32a4a2de147e288b3847.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/cd4676dbd6f8efcecb4b0187fe523651.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/cd49ef4c15cc4a2258919c6ae8909afb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/edb29743e1ee0a5b1da57f5f6be566dd.jpg)
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Very pleased with that bed liner.
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Absolutely beautiful, Philo. I have the same bone-stock wheels and hubcaps on mine, only a little more scratched up.
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Well done
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Thanks a whole lot. Although very rewarding, not sure if i can go through it again. So much detail and time, and the many expenses. At least not until i retire anyway.
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SEXY.
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SEXY.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Ummm,,,Thanks...i think.
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A while back VZ said i needed a new idler arm, we installed a nice Moog brand, the steering is much better, feels tighter and more responsive. Can an idler arm really make that much of a difference?
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SEXY.
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Ummm,,,Thanks...i think.
your welcome. truck looks killer tho, it really does.
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A while back VZ said i needed a new idler arm, we installed a nice Moog brand, the steering is much better, feels tighter and more responsive. Can an idler arm really make that much of a difference?
uhhh duh. any worn component that is replace will make a difference.
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A while back VZ said i needed a new idler arm, we installed a nice Moog brand, the steering is much better, feels tighter and more responsive. Can an idler arm really make that much of a difference?
uhhh duh. any worn component that is replace will make a difference.
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Cool, thanks. Plus with all new mounts, truck drives incredible. Tight and real quiet.
I can imagine LTZ how nice your truck drove after you did all that suspension and sreering work.
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Pure Success!
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Thanks to all on the compliments! Time to find a "barn-find" and start all over, k-series this time.
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Very nicely done!!
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Philo, the truck looks great.
Looking forward to your K series build down the road.
We have lots of rusty New England trucks to pick from to keep you busy for years to come.
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Philo, the truck looks great.
Looking forward to your K series build down the road.
We have lots of rusty New England trucks to pick from to keep you busy for years to come.
I know, all the ones i see on craigs list in a 100 mile radius are usually rusted junk or really hacked up. Its the law of the land around here. But i'm sure i'll find something. Thanks..
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I'm sure somdthing clean will pop up. I bought my M1028 out near you in East Brookfield Ma. It came from North Carolina and had only been in Mass for a few months when I bought it. Clean trucks are out there. You just have to be patient and be quick to buy them when they show up on Craigslist.
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Yup, east brookfield- right up the road. I agree, just a matter of time. If you see anything give me a shout.
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A while back VZ said i needed a new idler arm, we installed a nice Moog brand, the steering is much better, feels tighter and more responsive. Can an idler arm really make that much of a difference?
uhhh duh. any worn component that is replace will make a difference.
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Cool, thanks. Plus with all new mounts, truck drives incredible. Tight and real quiet.
I can imagine LTZ how nice your truck drove after you did all that suspension and sreering work.
it was pretty nice.
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Looks great!
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Has anyone ever changed models? Is that forbidden? Or did i just open a can of worms? Isint the bonanza the illegitimate child of a scottsdale? Lol
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Mr. Original wants to put a fake badge on his truck?
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Mr. Original wants to put a fake badge on his truck?
hahahahaha!
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I AM mr. original!! I would never cross the line!! I have no badges!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/8cfaa5ed69796efc5ea802af99a90b87.jpg)
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Badges?
We don't have no stinking bonanza badges...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/f6363ba292f4032421c38d495b48dc27.jpg)
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Speaking of emblems...
Did only certain models/years have the grille emblem? 350, 454,,etc.
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Yes.
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I'm refinishing my sun visors, found my brackets are near deteriorated and cracked. Never knew the oem ones were plastic. Do they make an aftermarket metal chrome one? I don't care if its not original. The factory should have made them out of metal instead of cheap plastic.
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VZ found me some NOS Bonanza fender badges. I ordered them. What are my options for mounting them, j really dont want to take off the fenders.
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VZ found me some NOS Bonanza fender badges. I ordered them. What are my options for mounting them, j really dont want to take off the fenders.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23756.msg198335#msg198335 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23756.msg198335#msg198335)
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,18444.msg153130.html#msg153130 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,18444.msg153130.html#msg153130)
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I'm refinishing my sun visors, found my brackets are near deteriorated and cracked. Never knew the oem ones were plastic. Do they make an aftermarket metal chrome one? I don't care if its not original. The factory should have made them out of metal instead of cheap plastic. 
Nevermind, the aftermkt ones i got are nice quality steel, nice install, no problems. Go figure, way better than the oem.
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VZ found me some NOS Bonanza fender badges. I ordered them. What are my options for mounting them, j really dont want to take off the fenders.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23756.msg198335#msg198335 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23756.msg198335#msg198335)
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,18444.msg153130.html#msg153130 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,18444.msg153130.html#msg153130)
Ok, thanks. Yeah, VZ sent me an email, same thing. I never knew about those.
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Well i finally got my stinkin badges! VZ spotted them on ebay. Brand new in the box, NOS.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/cee7b3e1d3848830b7731d6df78b9a53.jpg)
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Well i finally got my stinkin badges! VZ spotted them on ebay. Brand new in the box, NOS.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/cee7b3e1d3848830b7731d6df78b9a53.jpg)
Looks good but you should have clear coated them since they are new so they don't degrade over time. The may be new but the paint on them is old and I'm sure you saw what the elements do to the chrome over time. Clearing them would help prevent that.
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They look awesome! Congrats!
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Well i finally got my stinkin badges! VZ spotted them on ebay. Brand new in the box, NOS.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/cee7b3e1d3848830b7731d6df78b9a53.jpg)
Looks good but you should have clear coated them since they are new so they don't degrade over time. The may be new but the paint on them is old and I'm sure you saw what the elements do to the chrome over time. Clearing them would help prevent that.
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I can still do that, the barrel nuts hold them snug, but i can still back them out. I'm going to re-attach with a little clear rtv on the mounting posts and a few small pieces of some clear gorilla mounting tape- dbl sided. So perhaps i'll have the shop mist them over with some clearcoat.
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I would.
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Hey, i been told that clearcoat wont stick to that chrome. I dont want to fudge them up, ya know? I'd rather keep them dry and clean all the time. Maybe a little light spray wax instead, or chrome polish.
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Hey, i been told that clearcoat wont stick to that chrome. I dont want to fudge them up, ya know? I'd rather keep them dry and clean all the time. Maybe a little light spray wax instead, or chrome polish.
I've never heard that. I've cleaned, painted and cleared multiple of these types of emblems and trim
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We'll no harm can come to them if they never get wet, if they fade, then thats normal. Im looking forward to my truck when it has that old but preserved look. Hard to explain.
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Don't clear coat them. If that's your preference, fine but you will ruin your new emblems. Keep them clean and they will last as they should.
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Don't clear coat them. If that's your preference, fine but you will ruin your new emblems. Keep them clean and they will last as they should.
I'm not touching them! Just keeping them dry and clean always. Could be the last OEM ones on earth. Lol
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170506/d9358a30b98e897c71327c982e569b8f.jpg)
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Just wiped it down with my large towel microfiber and then with the leaf blower blew of the droplets from every nook cranny and crevice. ....until the garage is built. Then...it will stop raining of course.
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Question:
Cant remember if i noticed before, but since the body resto, why does it seem the front corners of my hood have a little "bounce" when driving down the road?
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did you replace the hinges? It looks like the hood isn't properly aligned.
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No, and i cant seem to get it right.
, can you spare a 1/2 hr next saturday?
It closes really nice though, like butter.
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Why didn't you replace the hinges? There's your problem.
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So...Did you steal my truck?
Seriously, I just read the whole thread, great job!
My picture is from quite a few years ago, it's now in the same shape as when you started. Mine's a '79 C10 Custom Deluxe. I noticed the spring packs on the back of you truck was your's a BIG 10? Mine is, has the 3/4 ton springs.
That's not it's original color, I want to go back to it's factor dark green and maybe even 2 tone it (old man?). I still like the color, your truck looks awesome in it, I just want to go factor next time around. I guess my tastes have changed in the last 17 years!
K
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Why didn't you replace the hinges? There's your problem.
But everything lined up BEFORE the body resto. what goes bad on these hinges? Are bad hinges tight or loose?
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So...Did you steal my truck?
Seriously, I just read the whole thread, great job!
My picture is from quite a few years ago, it's now in the same shape as when you started. Mine's a '79 C10 Custom Deluxe. I noticed the spring packs on the back of you truck was your's a BIG 10? Mine is, has the 3/4 ton springs.
That's not it's original color, I want to go back to it's factor dark green and maybe even 2 tone it (old man?). I still like the color, your truck looks awesome in it, I just want to go factor next time around. I guess my tastes have changed in the last 17 years!
K
Wow, pretty close. No, mine is just a plain c-10. But the build sheet says it came with the HD rear leaf springs. Dont see many big 10's out there. Very nice!
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Maybe the corner hood bumpers in the core support need replacement/adjusting out or your hood latch or a combination of both. I had the same problem with the 83 even after new hinges but adjusting the latch and bumpers fixed it.
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Maybe the corner hood bumpers in the core support need replacement/adjusting out or your hood latch or a combination of both. I had the same problem with the 83 even after new hinges but adjusting the latch and bumpers fixed it.
Will take a look at that as well, thanks.
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10 for that truck vs 40k for a new truck now days. yeah ill take one of our old truck anytime
I know that's right. And 40K? Where you find a deal like that? LOL. Trucks around here are like 50-65K. But either way I agree!!
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found a 2015 chev 2500 4x4 with a dirtymax for 30k. it has 75k miles on her already but im really tempted to buy. it the work truck model but im cool with that i dont need carpet or leather seats
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You alive? I haven't seen any pics of the truck.
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dang it has been almost a month since hes been on
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Update: Yes, i'm still verticle..amen. This spring has been rough. A couple months ago my moms cancer took a bad turn, and on May 28th she went home to be with the Lord. She was the first person i lost. Me, my brothers and sister have been visiting dad often for company and to help out around the house. We are all trying to move on, we are content and doing ok.
With that said, while visiting my mom every day and much of my family and relatives popping in also, many saw my truck for the first time and drooled over it. They totally loved it.
In the past few days i have been trying to repair a couple small rust pimples that bled through down near the rocker and lower part of the fender. I had to sand, fill, sand, primer, paint, wetsand and polish. Fortunately i had some of the original paint left over so the match was pretty good. But of course, you can still tell. I cant get that shiny mirror look back. I HATE bodywork! To top things off, while waxing yesterday i discovered a small crack in the paint- top dead center on the hood, where the raised part is. How do we fix this??
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170614/2e3bbb01ac4296a471f985883cca6093.jpg)
Well, thats pretty much where i'm at. Trying to squeeze in some time for fishing since most of spring was dark cold and raining.
Oh yeah, i'm building a garage in two weeks.
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sorry to hear about your mom. i havnt lost someone that close, dad id getting there with his parkinsons. the only thing i can think of is keeping your mind busy thats how ive dealt with other family member passing
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Thanks Irish, technically i didnt "lose" my mom, as i know she was saved, and therefore, is with the Lord. Thats the good news!
But not having her around is the tough part. I sure do miss her meatballs on sunday afternoons. She was old world Italian. But we will meet again.
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Sorry for your loss. Been there done that with both my parents. My dad most recently, just finally went through his stuff in the basement and garage... Memories... Going to finish the barn next time I am in town as my step mom is wanting to sell.
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Philo,
I'm sorry for your loss.
Glad to have you back.
Fitz.
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Sorry for your loss man. Time working on your truck helps give you time to think and to heal
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Thanks everyone, I really do appreciate it. And yes Vile, your totally correct, i haven't given up putting time in the truck, just tinkering, and it does help heal as it keeps the mind occupied. Building the garage should help too, looking forward to that.
Oh, any advice on how to fix that tiny crack in the paint? Please dont say repair and repaint the hood, or replace the hood.
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Unfortunately yes, you need to grind out whatever is under there or replace the hood.
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Unfortunately yes, you need to grind out whatever is under there or replace the hood.
Yup, my hood wasnt that great to begin with, i was just up at the shop,,this fall we are replacing the hood, fender and maybe a rocker panel. Lower fender had a little rust pimple bleed through, as did the rocker. I dont tolerate rust. And...since i have an aditional vehicle now, i can take my time and get it done right.
Oh, VZ you know a local place that has quality body parts? I'd like to pick up local instead of having shipped. Thanks
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Would anyone agree this is a quality hood? I haven't checked the site store yet but will.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-and-gmc-truck-standard-hood-1973-1980.html#close
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The quality hood is $267 local. I don't know what to tell you on Eckler other than it's probably an inferior hood. See what Chris can do it for. I think I have a few in stock too.
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I didnt see a plain one on the site store, but i sent Chris an email. Anyway, i'll let ya know. Save me a nice hood just in case. Thanks..
What/where is this local place for $267?
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Philo, sorry to hear about your loss. I wish your family the best. I know how it feels tho, my dad is currently battling Stage 4 esophageal cancer that has spread to other spots in his body. He's doing pretty good, we just got back from a week long vacation in Hawaii, a trip that was his idea, so he's doing alright. You know we are always here for you if you need us.
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Lost my mom 2 years ago @ 78. Dementia and heart failure.
Sorry for your loss.
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A local distributor that only sells to licensed shops. I usually get things that aren't practical to have shipped from them. I also buy my paint and body supplies from them.
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Thanks Blaze and LTZ, really do appreciate the kindness.
...and Vile, i'll let you know, i have plenty of time. I'm not doing nothing more than an oil change until fall. Its cruising time. Plus the garage is at the top of the list. Thanks
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I <3 my garage and just came in from there. What are you building?
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Not quite a shop like yours, just a 16x28, full electric, loft, workbench and of course heat. Stick-built on site. I'll dress it up nice though. Lots of new tools to get.
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16x28 is the size of the room upstairs in my garage and I can barely walk in there. You'll run out of space quick so I'll play devil's advocate. Bigger is better, ceiling height of 13' giving you the span to put a lift in there is ideal. Pour the pad fat enough to support a lift at least in the center. I wish my garage was at least twice the size, never enough!
If you need concrete guys, builders etc I've got plenty of connections.
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Listen to this man for he is wise......bigger is better. Mine is 24 X 44 and I could use more room
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What i say garage? I meant shed, at least it will hold me over until i get my shop built. At least now i can get the truck inside this winter. At the moment i have a 12x12 shelter which is falling apart! At least i'm improving.
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16x28 is the size of the room upstairs in my garage and I can barely walk in there. You'll run out of space quick so I'll play devil's advocate. Bigger is better, ceiling height of 13' giving you the span to put a lift in there is ideal. Pour the pad fat enough to support a lift at least in the center. I wish my garage was at least twice the size, never enough!
If you need concrete guys, builders etc I've got plenty of connections.
My big 16x28 shed is getting there. But when i build a shop in a year or two, i'll contact you for that info.
The shed is on 6" of crushed stone. So i guess that makes it officially just a shed. Plenty of room for a lawn mower and grass trimmer. I can sure squeeze the truck in for the winter. The floor is 2" thick.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170821/0d02fd6af3cd9eedee3c90e9ecfe3b4f.jpg)
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Nice! I almost did the same earlier this year but decided to wait until I drop the surrounding trees. Is it a design build shed that you assemble or did you order it and they build on site? There are a lot of shed companies around and I was looking at building one myself vs a barn yard or kloter farms type unit. If I put on up it will free up a ton of space in my garage by moving out the bigger equipment that i don't use as often.
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Thanks, i almost went with kloter farms, but they can only deliver up to 14' wide. I want to be able to open both doors and still have room. So we modeled it after a kloter farms design but went 16' wide and used 2x6's (instead of 2x4) across the base 4x4 pressure treateed. Also PT 3/4" plywood subfloor then 1x10x16 boards on top of that. Should be able to put a steam roller in there. That said, i still wish i went with a nice smooth concrete pad, for level purposes, crushed stone settles and things dont always line up. Rafters are finally done and collar ties are in. Cant wait to have a roof!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/615f52611427c4b2059ae7048407ea20.jpg)
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Coming along nice