73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: moshrider3 on June 16, 2016, 08:02:55 am
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Hi everyone, this is my first time posting here so if in doing anything wrong please let me know. Recently I purchased a 1977 gmc k10 and have been doing some work to it.
I wanted to do a quick rotor and brake change but did not know how much work was involved. Anyway, I'm having trouble figuring out what I need, or the name of the part I'm looking it. The picture is attached below
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/84cb3576fc89d6f4eb1081cb6e959f5f.jpg)
I believe it is the yoke and the larger part connected to the hub is the knuckle? I noticed one of the rubber seals or maybe bushing was ripped apart, I tried to show it best in the picture.
If anyone knows what part or parts kit I need, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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that would be a lower ball joint. you dont have to change them to change the rotors. we do have a write up that may help
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=20739.0
i know its a 2wd but the same idea for the most part
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=5228.0
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Ah okay thanks for the information
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The reason I'm changing it is because of the tear in that rubber piece
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that would be a lower ball joint. you dont have to change them to change the rotors. we do have a write up that may help
Does it make a difference if the axle is a Dana 44, don't they have kingpins instead of ball joints?
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afaik only the dana 60 would have a kingpin. never seen a 44 with the kingpin. that one link is a 2wd so its a slightly different setup but its pretty much the same setup
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afaik only the dana 60 would have a kingpin. never seen a 44 with the kingpin. that one link is a 2wd so its a slightly different setup but its pretty much the same setup
Okay thank you for the info, it looks pretty straightforward. I figured while I have everything off I might as well replace it now.
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yes and maybe u joints for the axle shafts if theyre sloppy
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Ok, it looks like this would be the correct one? The one with the red arrow. I'll have to check them when I get home (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/ffbd49cda56bf4b21fe882044c602d97.jpg)
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i would go with the 371 due to the fact no fitting. the hole for the fitting some tend to think it makes a weak spot for them to break. i cant verify this but ive heard more than one person talk about it even the off road tv shows
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Under normal operating conditions the hole for the grease fitting will not make a bit of difference.
It'd be nice if the joints could be had with low profile fittings in the caps.
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Under normal operating conditions the hole for the grease fitting will not make a bit of difference.
It'd be nice if the joints could be had with low profile fittings in the caps.
They are available...MOOG p/n 377
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ive seen them have a screw to remove then you have to put a zerk fitting in it when you want to grease. i think thats the style from moog
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This is a joint from MOOG. It has a grease fitting installed that requires filling with a needle.
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I didn't find those when I did my Dana 44 10 years ago. I asked.
I used Spicer 5-760X U-joints. The Precision 371 joints didn't have grease fittings either and the Spicer joints were US made at the time. I was sorely tempted to drill and tap the caps with carbide tooling. I had visions of a sintered cap exploding in a shower of small pieces all over my milling machine.
Precision PN 377 is greaseable through one cap. O'Riley house brand PN 377 is greaseable with a single low profile Zerk too. Interesting that it has the same part # as the Moog. The offroad guys don't like the standard and single cap greaseable joints because they have holes drilled through the cross making it slightly weaker. I doubt that's a real issue on antique mostly road driven trucks.
CTM makes a greaseable through all 4 caps version for $$$$. The CTM C144-1881 (http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CTM-Axle-U-joint-Replaces-5-760x-and-5-297x_p_62.html) is $235.00. OWCH!!!! :o It has low profile Zerks in each cap with bronze sleeves rather than needle bearings, a solid crosspiece, and it's made in the US. There's no reason the 5-760X couldn't be made with 4 zerks for a few extra $... The Spicer joints last a good long time tho.
One piece of information for those folks that use greaseable joints. Make ABSOLOUTELY sure you are using compatible grease or that you rinse out the factory applied grease before you fill with your own. I believe most U-Joints come with Synthetic Lithium EP grease. If you mix some greases it's almost as bad as running completely dry.
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This is a joint from MOOG. It has a grease fitting installed that requires filling with a needle.
maybe i should if read the instructions lol
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Just did both ball joints on one side of my 76 k10, I had Orielly's check and the Dana 44 and Corporate 10 bolt have the same part numbers for the ball joints. Quick tip, the upper ball joint on mine did come with a regular zerk and a bolt type fitting. I left the zerk in and once every thing was installed the axle shaft wouldnt turn because the zerk was hitting it. Thankfully I was able to remove the zerk and replace it with the bolt fitting while everything was assembled. I would suggest greasing after the ball joint is installed and replacing the zerk with the other before installing the axle shaft.