73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) => Topic started by: NCali on July 22, 2016, 07:37:09 pm
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I read the procedures on removing the heater core in the tech section
my question has to do wit this
Remove nuts at selector duct studs (projecting through firewall). Remove selector duct to firewall screw.
I see two studs comming through the firewall
does the inner fender have to come out to get to the bolts on the bottom side of the heater box?
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Either drop it to gain access or remove it altogether. Removing it makes getting in there easier but it depends on what your abilities are as to whether or not you can sneak it out without destroying everything including yourself.
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Either drop it to gain access or remove it altogether. Removing it makes getting in there easier but it depends on what your abilities are as to whether or not you can sneak it out without destroying everything including yourself.
Removing the fender well is a huge help! Mostly because you don't have to completely slump over the hood the whole time and those bottom nuts are square t best.
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that just took the "easy " right out of this job
but thanks
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If you want easy, the easiest way to do it is to drop it off to a mechanic and pick it up when it's done. :D
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You will never get the bottom corner bolt out without removing the inner fender
Unless like me. You drill a 1" access hole in the inner fender
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Either drop it to gain access or remove it altogether. Removing it makes getting in there easier but it depends on what your abilities are as to whether or not you can sneak it out without destroying everything including yourself.
Ok. So how do you drop that inner fender well?
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15 or 16 bolts around the front, rear and wheel well edges of the inner fender, you don't need to pull it out just drop it down to sit on the tire until reassembly. Putting the inner fender back in will be easier with an extra set of hands to hold it while you thread in bolts but it can be done by yourself.
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Either drop it to gain access or remove it altogether. Removing it makes getting in there easier but it depends on what your abilities are as to whether or not you can sneak it out without destroying everything including yourself.
Ok. So how do you drop that inner fender well?
9/16" and 1/2" 6 point sockets. Disconnect and remove the battery altogether.
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Get yourself some penetrating oil and spray in side the holes where the nut plates are, depending on how much rust buildup on the bolts you don't want to twist a nut plate off for the inner fender.
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Will do! Busted plenty of nuts and bolts in my day. Including one finger not long ago.
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Either drop it to gain access or remove it altogether. Removing it makes getting in there easier but it depends on what your abilities are as to whether or not you can sneak it out without destroying everything including yourself.
Ok. So how do you drop that inner fender well?
9/16" and 1/2" 6 point sockets. Disconnect and remove the battery altogether.
Ok, but the battery doesnt seem to be in the way of anything.
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You will never get the bottom corner bolt out without removing the inner fender
Unless like me. You drill a 1" access hole in the inner fender
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I may entertain the idea of drilling an access hole. Then just close it up with a piece of steel and some black rtv, nice and neat and flush of course.
Unless VZ highly recommends not to.
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Disconnect the battery, remove it and clean the area and battery/tray. Drop the inner fender, clean everything. Those areas are prone to corrosion so kill two birds instead of taking a shortcuts and poking holes.
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Ok, but a short while back I installed a new battery tray and bracket and cleaned all in there, painted nice and then coated with anti rust stuff. I'm always checking the nooks, crannies and crevices for "junk". I need to do this thing fast and make it go away. I admit, I don't like poking holes in truck. I also admit, every time I do a project..unforeseen problems stop me dead in my tracks and I end up texting you to bail me out, and full of anxiety and worries. lol
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Did the heater "corps" after dinner. Thought it was going to be a 3 day project. Did i do something wrong or right? It went in fine. Never had to lower the wheel well. Just the three studs on the firewall.
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Looks fine, I think the only time the lower bolt is an issue is with A/C, the HVAC box sits right there, and would block that lower bolt, requiring the removal of the inner fender.
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Ok, thanks. I was wondering what all the fuss was about that lower bolt access deal.
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I also assumed you had A/C
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The A/C boxes are a bit more difficult, mine is an AC truck and I was able to do it without dropping the fender, that was a few years ago tho.
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No AC = very easy. Forgot you had a non AC truck. Good job
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Thanks, means a lot coming from you guys. The shop wanted $150. I was determined.
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Now that the ps pump bracket is back in, i could finally start it and test the new core. Clean hot dry air!!
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You know you could run it without the power steering pump belt on.
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Yes, but i was too lazy to remove the alt belt in order to remove the ps belt. Couldnt start it with the ps belt dangling there. It was nice to start it with everything fixed and complete.
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Holy cow
I've got a job lined up in front of me. Yes my truck has ac. But doesn't work at the moment it will before next summer rolls around. THIS Texan would rather have a working heater lol
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Heater in TX??
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Did the heater "corps" after dinner. Thought it was going to be a 3 day project. Did i do something wrong or right? It went in fine. Never had to lower the wheel well. Just the three studs on the firewall.
Good job. Is that an aluminum heater core?
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I believe so. It was a Murray brand. O'rielly. $26.