Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on September 02, 2016, 09:56:54 pm
I have Nason 491-16 Epoxy Primer/Sealer, normally it is a topcoat after 1 hour, nothing stated on the sheet otherwise as to how long you can go before needing to scuff/sand. Most of the painting I have done, I prime, then topcoat within 2 hours, and it is normally just a panel(like the outside of a door).
But I have a lot of body work and fill to do, and since I can only do paint on the weekends, time to top coat could be as much as 7 days. So I want to know if I block sand the whole surface that got primed, and then let it set the week before final paint(which will be a second coat of prime(this will actually be more like a sealer), then top coat-- that should be pretty much the came as doing a sand/scuff right before re-coating right? I mean essentially you are just scratching the surface to give the primer/paint a surface to bite into, so it shouldn't really matter when it got sanded. The reason also for scuffing/sanding a week before is I have heard that the Nason epoxy gets really hard to sand if left too long-so I don't want to have to really work at sanding it a week later, because that will put me in the same boat as before(priming a week before paint).
My second question has a little longer before I really worry about it, but I am thinking about doing either a UPOL Raptor liner(Tintable) or SEM Rock-It liner(Tintable) for the bed; do I really need to worry about getting paint on the bed, or will I be fine going over the primer? Just want to save some money on paint, and I'm sure that bed will take close to a quart if not more.
Thanks for any input.
Post by: AZ4X4SQBDY on September 03, 2016, 07:55:37 am
SANDING
1 hour at 70-80°F (21-27°C) Overnight
Ful-Poxy® 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer may be recoated at any stage of cure. It can be topcoated within 24 hours air dry without sanding. If Ful-Poxy® 491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer is baked it must be sanded with P400-P600 before top coating
I read this as it's ok as long as you sand it.
I had this same question with PPG epoxy primers a long time ago when I first started doing body work and nobody could answer it.
Post by: AZ4X4SQBDY on September 03, 2016, 08:08:39 am
Sorry, forgot about the second part of your question.
As long as you have paint, a urethane primer, or etching primer, you should be ok. I'm pretty sure what they are looking for is the adhesion of the top coat that you will be applying their product on top of. A quick search of different forums showed the 4x4 guys saying they had good luck with it .
I'm going to be doing one of my beds shortly and this was good to know.
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on September 03, 2016, 08:42:02 am
http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Nason/Documents/TDS/NSN-TDS-491-16-Eng.pdfInteresting, that isn't quite the same tech sheet I get with the paint, main difference is topcoat and sanding- mine has no reference to sanding, top coat was after 1 hr@70 degrees or overnight. Other then that it appears identical.
SANDING
1 hour at 70-80°F (21-27°C) Overnight
Ful-Poxy491-16TM DTM Epoxy Primer/Sealer may be recoated at any stage of cure. It can be topcoated within 24 hours air dry without sanding. If Ful-Poxy
I read this as it's ok as long as you sand it.
I had this same question with PPG epoxy primers a long time ago when I first started doing body work and nobody could answer it.
And thanks for backing up the U-POL sheet, I have seen only good reviews on it, figured it had to work well on a properly scuffed surface. I plan on tinting the liner with my paint, most recommend about 6 to 9 oz of I believe urethane paint to tint, and have only seen 1 review where the guy used less paint and it did not match at all(came out lime green on his dark green truck.)
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