73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: justin71105 on October 16, 2016, 01:53:23 pm
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Loving my new truck, haven't been able to drive it much yet still waiting on tune up kit before I get in on the road but so far I have:
Changed out the shift linkage bushing Dorman Part# 02373 - Used a nylon washer on the inside to keep srping from pushing the bushing through the bracket again.
Changed out both belts, has a Serpentine belt on the front and a V belt on the back Part #'s 435K5 and 36517
Replaced the Headlight switch part # SW144 - The dash lights were not working, new switch and now they are.
Replaced an injector connector part # - 28413 - Still need another for the other injector its busted up pretty good.
Changing out the ignition lock cylinder today.
I did was the engine bay out with simple green and it washed away a good but of the grease, going to hit it once more today and see if I can't get some more of the build up off.
Here are some pics of it, going to try and update with new pics as I make changes.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141057_zpsozlxgm5h.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141048_zpslg1yiqmf.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141042_zpshth6wvt7.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141037_zps9pzqnskp.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141342_zpsey7xagys.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_141337_zpsiw5asv7v.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_140804_zpsy7p0ekcr.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_140800_zpsspnf0kea.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_140818_zpsiq3mqfsd.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_140846_zpsfizorxy7.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_140834_zps8zmwlwld.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_132315_zpsn9guz8jk.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161014_160722_zpsj9pcu8m1.jpg)
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Welcome aboard bud, and glad to see another C10 saved from the Scrapper. Sounds like you are getting ahead in the game so far. Good luck and keep us posted. God Bless
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Having trouble finding a part I think I am needing, I have my high beam selector on the column on the same stalk as the turn/cruise/wiper/washer. I cannot find the switch that the stalk plugs into anywhere, I pulled the steering wheel to change the lock cylinder which is now done and to clean this selector switch. The problem I was having is it would not select/click into high beam often and when it did it would not click back into low beam
Anyone replaced this switch in the column and have a name or number for it, auto zone could not find it in their system and not seeing it on Rock Auto.
Looks similar to Oreiley's wiper switch but still not what mine looks like, wondering if someone put in a different column.
I believe the piece I broke off and need to replace is called the dimmer switch actuator, it is a plastic piece that goes on the plastic cover of the column.
EDIT-- After looking through some puctures online mine is not broken, I can get it on and all back togethor and I get maybe one good switch from low to high and back and the plastic actuator slips past the rod somehow. May just put a floor clicker in it and be done I been messing with this steering column for a couple hours and cannot figure it out.
Put everything back together and will be putting in a floor clicker tomorrow, see that the person before me cut out the cruise so will just use the stalk for turn signals and wipers.
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Pulled the seat out and carpet today, sprayed the carpet down with simple green and sprayed it out real good. No real bad spots or stains but a lot of sand. Insulation and sound deadener look like new and the paint under it looks great.
Got my steering wheel put back on and am going to the parts store to get a new foot switch this afternoon. Still need to pull the wiring down and see if their is enough without extending it, the headlight switch under the dash uses the same plug as the old foot clickers so should be good with that.
Going to try and get a better camera next week and start to document my build. Next major things will be the cab corner rust, moving the fuel tank to the spare tire area and mounting a new fuel door.....thinking about putting it on the inside of the bed on the wheel tub. It seems to be fairly mechanically sound, I drove it around today and it has a lot more power than when I first got it. Still needs plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor for me to finish up the tune up. Radiator fluid is brand new and trans fluid looks new, which helps me believe the had the trans rebuilt. That and some of the trans pan bolts were not tightened all the way and the cross member bolts were loose.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/14680664_10154768118764474_3865429465565928664_n_zpsvs1llif4.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/14705729_10154768118544474_2141196104535697890_n_zpswd8t9ulh.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/14724389_10154768118699474_1936197741211288432_n_zpsjkhsamxu.jpg)
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Looking good!
are you getting rid of those 20ish wheels? to much rim IMO, needs some proper tires as a truck.
And finally is the windshield cracked? Kind of look like it in a couple of the pics.
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Looking good!
are you getting rid of those 20ish wheels? to much rim IMO, needs some proper tires as a truck.
And finally is the windshield cracked? Kind of look like it in a couple of the pics.
YEa I will be getting rid of the 22's, they are boss 338 22/9.5 with brand new tires on them. I have the factory 15's I am thinking of putting back on it or selling both sets and getting a nice set of 17's and lowering it 3/4 with spindles, shackles and hangers.
The windshield is cracked, plan on replacing both the front and back at some time in the near future.
Right now I am cleaning the throttle body and ordering all the sensor and plugs that look eaten up or are not plugged up at all.
The Map sensor was unplugged, I plugged it in and it ran like crap and start to misfire and sputter. Unplugged it and have same issue still. Have ordered a new Map sensor and connector, new IAC valve and connector, New O2 sensor and connectors, a full tune up kit with plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor. Once I pull apart the throttle body I can see if the fpr is going bad, think it is it is leaking a little fuel.
Need to do a vacuum test on my lines and a fuel pressure test but that will have to wait until I get finished with this tune up.
It has a little way's to go before I would trust it as a daily driver.
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Think when I order my motor I am going to use the FiTech efi system instead of going to a carb.
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a crate 350 something in the 300hp/325-375tq range. I found a shop here in state that sales engines and I emailed them for a spec sheet tonight. I am looking for a longblock or crate engine that I can finish putting togethor in a weekend and have installed in a day or two. when I get ready to purchase.
Something in the $2500-3500 range.
Right now I am looking at this company: http://www.cmengines.com/
And the engine is:part # 350L130P3
Want to keep my 700R4 and preferably stock tq convertor and stall, so probably go with a mild cam.
Or this one from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12499529K10/10002/-1
I don't know a whole lot about assembling engines or building them or specs but willing to learn, prefer one with roller cam so would have to buy a 96+ 350 longblock and all the accessories listed in the jegs pack above. But don't know enough about them to go order one yet still have plenty of reading and research to do.
I am hoping to find out if I can put a 96+ vortec crate motor in it and overcome the ecu with the fitech efi system donig the tuning.
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year one has a 400hp/tq for 3k i asked for a spec sheet before i bought one and they said it would be shipped with the engine. needless to say i didnt get one from them yet.
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year one has a 400hp/tq for 3k i asked for a spec sheet before i bought one and they said it would be shipped with the engine. needless to say i didnt get one from them yet.
I am leaning towards the vortec crate engines from jegs or summit and running the Fitech efi instead of the factory tbi or carb and let it self tune. Even the 350/290 would be better than what is in it now, it has a wore out 305.
Got an email back from cmeengines and they are the pre 95 engines with flat tappet cams and non vortec heads.
Summit's store and wharehouse are only about 2 hours away from me, so I could pick it up and everything else I would need to finish the build. Going to be the spring of next year before I do any ordering. But would like to hash out what I am going to need before then so I can make one order and have a ballpark price.
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I finished my tune up today and then went on to pulling my seatbelts out and winding the springs to give them a little extra life. One of the ribbon springs popped out and unwound but the others tightened up nicely, got all 4 springs wound up and working as well as they can for their age.
Tomorrow i need to put the rivets back in the he sides of the belt cases and that will be done. Will also finish up mounting my foot dimmer switch and running the wires. Need to haul off some junk for my brother monday and then it is time to pull the dash out for a face lift. Found a walk through of how to use expanding foam, plastic weld and some krylon fusion to give it new life.
My driver side fender and cab corners should be in next week, will likely mount then fender and hold off on the cab corners. I also need to order a rear driver side lower quarter panel to weld in as well, prefer to start with it before moving to the cab corners.
Also began looking for a digital camera for my update pics, my phone camera is busted and my tablet pics look like a brick phone took them. Plan on ordering a sony dsc -w800 monday if the local pawn shop doesn't have something similar that does photo and video.
Also got the 22's polished up yesterday one has some scratches and another has a little pitting, they sale for $1700 per 4 online and have brand new tires on them. Going to post them online and see if I cant get 1200 or swap for 20's with good tires.
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Got the Rivets back in the plastic parts of the seat belt and got foot dimmer switch mounted and wired up. Truck seems like it has a miss under load, going to check to make sure all my plugs have a good connection tomorrow and reset both the IAC and TPS which I forgot about. Hopefully this will take care of the problem and it will be running right. Also see I have a power steering leak were the lines connect along the front of the frame to a small box. Have to look into what this is, may see if they have nylon washers....maybe they are wore out.
----10-31-16
Pulled all the plugs and checked gap - Manual said .45 which is what I had them at -- under hood sticker said .35 so I adjusted back to what the sticker under the hoods said.
I plugged everything in pretty good last night and hauled off some trash today and it ran good for about 10 miles, once I got to the dump it started running like crap and surging under throttle again. When I got it home it would idle but if I put it in gear it would stall out and die.
Checked everything back out noticed the lead plug wire going from coil to dist cap was loose and not staying snapped down, went and got a new wire and still will not stay snapped into place. The nub on the coil compared to the dist cap looks wore down and the plug will not stay snapped down, so I am going to put a new coil on it tomorrow.
I have ordered a new IAC, TPS and connector, Ignition control module and connectors. I tried resetting the IAC tonight but the pintle would not come out fully unless I tapped on it with a screw driver slightly. I cleaned the orifice when I had the throttle body off but the plunger and spring still looked a little gunked up, even after carb cleaner and a nylon brush.
On the ICM both of the plastic plugs are busted and the connectors are also broken so they no longer snap and hold in place. I think just from driving the connectors are working their way out and or the coil lead plug wire is slipping off the nub and not getting good connection or a combination of the two.
I pulled the EGR valve tonight and cleaned it up, someone has painted the intake manifold and had gotten paint on the plunger of the EGR Valve, got it cleaned up and depressed the plunger and it works smoothly. I depressed the plunger and blocked the air nipple and it held the pressure until I released it so I am hoping it is good, after cleaning it I re-installed with a new felpro gasket.
Hopefully when my rock auto shipment gets in and I have everything installed it will have a little more power. If not I am going to rent a fuel pressure gauge and make sure my pump is not wearing out. Right now it if I give it gas rpms go up like it wants to take off and then almost instantly it surges and looses power and bogs down.
I got my driver side fender in today from Jegs, glad they give free shipping over 95$ the box was huge. If it mounts up well I may order the passenger side as well so I won't have to fill in all the deep scratched in the current fender. Still need to look into ordering a new front bumper "black", a new grill and passenger side trim piece as well as a rear roll pan "black". Can't install the roll pan until I cut out and weld in a rear driver side lower quarter panel though, mine is rusted through the first layer right behind the tire. I hit it with the drill and a steel brush then sprayed it with some rustoleum for now.
I got a long way to go with this project but hope to have it driving reliably in the next month or two.
Going to try and finish cleaning up the factory wheels and polish them, need to decide whether I am going to put them on and if they will work with a 3/4 drop with spindles, the rear should be fine, don't know about the front. The factory wheels are the 15x10.5 with the 8 oval holes and all the center caps.
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Can someone tell me what the two lines in the image I have arrows pointed to go to. I am thinking they are for power steering, but they attach to something along the rail the lines bolt to and they are leaking at this connection. I would like to replace this part or the nylon washer or whatever is causing the leaking, but I don't know if all the fluid is going to spill out once I disconnect the lines or not. I topped off the fluid today and it seems after I drove today it started coming out pretty good in the garage. I loosened the line and re-tightened it as much as I felt comfortable with before driving it today because it had leaked some just from sitting already.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/Pump_off_zpsfdgctrph.jpg)
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Brake lines. One might be the fuel vent line that goes to the round charcoal canister
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I'm going to trace them back tonight when I get home, dont think its brake lines though. The fluid in my brake reservoir is full but power steering was near empty, and was full when I bought it. Need to figure out what the piece the lines connect to is called, pretty sure it goes from that piece to the pump.
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Unless they installed a cooler, there should only be 2 lines, a high pressure and a return(low pressure); coolers get installed on the low pressure side.
The most common loss of fluid occurs at the Pittman arm seal, followed by the rubber lines.
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Here is a picture of the part the lines connect to, I will try to trace them down tomorrow in the daylight or next week when I get off work. Hopefully I can get up tomorrow evening before work and trace it down and get it ordered so I can replace it next week when I get off work.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/image000001_zpsdmqepivj.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/image000000_zps7eawzii9.jpg)
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Those are brake lines connected to the brake combination valve. Are you sure the fluid leak is from the valve or its lines? That fluid color looks more like power steering fluid than brake fluid. What color is the fluid in the brake master cylinder? Check the front pump seal, the reservoir and the hoses for a power steering fluid leak.
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Those are brake lines connected to the brake combination valve. Are you sure the fluid leak is from the valve or its lines? That fluid color looks more like power steering fluid than brake fluid. What color is the fluid in the brake master cylinder? Check the front pump seal, the reservoir and the hoses for a power steering fluid leak.
Yea it is red fluid and the PS is what I have had to fill the past two days, I just noticed the cap is busted on the corner and I can pull up on it and pop the cap off without unscrewing it. I washed all the parts that had the fluid on them down tonight and will try to pick up a new cap before driving it and see if that is the problem.
-- After installing the new ignition coil today the truck runs very good, hoping its just the cap and I can start working on the rest of the problem areas and start driving it around for errands. I set the idle with the IAC on it but have one coming from rock auto as well, it was idled about a 1/8 turn low going from my ears and listening how it would run.....don't have an rpm gauge. I idled it in Park just where it would idle and not die, if I turn the idle screw back maybe an 1/8 it would start to bog down a little and want to die.
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I bet one of the rubber lines for the steering(most likely pressure side) has developed a pinhole leak, and it just happens to be hitting the brake combination valve. The cap may have a little fluid push past it, but nothing like what you are saying.
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I bet one of the rubber lines for the steering(most likely pressure side) has developed a pinhole leak, and it just happens to be hitting the brake combination valve. The cap may have a little fluid push past it, but nothing like what you are saying.
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I can swap that out next week as precaution too, its also cheap.
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I bet one of the rubber lines for the steering(most likely pressure side) has developed a pinhole leak, and it just happens to be hitting the brake combination valve. The cap may have a little fluid push past it, but nothing like what you are saying.
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I finally got some help from my brother on checking the lines today, had him move wheels one side to the other and you were correct when he got to the farthest amount of travel there was a pin hole shooting fluid from the pressure line.
Changed it out today and the leak seems to have gone away, the line they had on there was badly bent at the pump as well. I thought I had gotten the wrong line until I saw that the last one to install it had bent the line into a box shape instead of how it comes in a U shape.
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New IAC Valve came in today from Rock Auto, got it put on and reset. Going to get a polishing wheel from harbor freight next week and try to get these factory wheels polished up and see if I want to keep them or look for some 18's or 20's instead of the 22's. Prefer a wheel like the American Racing Nova Chrome or something similar, just need to find out what size and backspacing I can run with a 2-3" drop spindle.
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New headliner installed today, we have an auto upholstery store here local and I picked up 10 yards of house brand headliner material and 2 cans of adhesive spray for $70. Was cheaper to buy 10 yards of house material than buy the name brand by the yard for the 3.5 yards I wanted. Tomorrow I plan to pull the dash out and attempt to repair the cracks and spray paint it black with the krylon fusion paint. Have had really good results with it on motorcycle fairings.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20161111_132026_zpsyykiducq.jpg)
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Ordered my lowering kit, 2.5" spindles and shackles/hangers for 4" drop in rear. Ordered new brake lines to bend around the new spindles and new brake pads. The caliper and rotors have some rust on them as well, so I may pick those up when all my other parts get here. Or hit them with a wire wheel and spray with high temp black spray paint.
Seems they have already been upgraded to the 1.25" rotors as well.
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(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/image000000_zps7eawzii9.jpg)
FYI - The top front steering gearbox mounting bolt is missing (upper right corner of image). Replace the missing bolt and check the others.
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(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/image000000_zps7eawzii9.jpg)
FYI - The top front steering gearbox mounting bolt is missing (upper right corner of image). Replace the missing bolt and check the others.
Thanks for the heads up, will check them out tomorrow and get the missing bolts replaced.
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Good eye on the missing bolt, I have seen some people get a 1/2" longer bolt and put a locknut on the end for more security.
FYI torque for bolts is around 60 to 80 ft-lbs depending on which manual you read.
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RPO codes still in glove box, trying to decode them now: Some may be incorrect as I am getting the info from online sources.
AU3- Power door locks
A01- Tinted Glass
A28- Sliding Rear Window
A31- Power Windows
A52- Front Bench Seat
BB5- ORNAMENTATION, INTR, HEADLINER
BC3- ORNAMENTATION, INTR, I/P, DELUXE
BS4- INSULATION, BACK PNL
BX6- ORNAMENTATION, EXTR MLDG, APLQ, CAB BACK PNL
B30- COVERING, FLOOR CARPET
B32- Color Keyed Front Floor Mats
B7P- BODY EQUIPMENT, PICKUP BOX PANELS (PRIME)
B85- Bright Body Side Moldings
F59- Front Stabilizer Bar
GU4- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
G50- SPRING REAR, HEAVY DUTY, VAR 1
G80- AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
JB5- BRAKE SYSTEM,VACUUM POWER DISC/DRUM
J55- BRAKE SYSTEM,VAC PWR
K22- 94 Amp Alternator
K34- ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL (CRUISE CONTROL)
L03- ENGINE, 305 C.I.D. V8 (305H) - TBI
MD8- TRANSMISSION, AUTO 4 SPD, THM 700 R4
MX0- MERCHANDISED, TRANS, AUTO PROVISIONS, O/D
NA5- EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER O
NL2- Auxiliary Fuel Tank (pick ups)
U76- Windshield Antenna
V22- Chrome grille
V73- VEHICLE STATEMENT, USA/CANADA
XFN-
YA8-
YE9- CONVENIENCE PACKAGE, COMFORT & DECOR LEVEL #3
YFN-
YG3- ORNAMENTATION, BODY, SIDE, 6 WHL OPENING BRIGHT
YH3-
ZFN-
ZN3-
ZQ2- SALES PACKAGE, DRIVER CONVENIENCE
ZY1- COLOR COMBINATION, SOLID
Z53- CLUSTER, INST, OIL, COOL, TEMP, VOLTS
18D- TRIM COMBINATION, CLOTH, DK CHARCOAL (D)
18I- INTERIOR TRIM, DK CHARCOAL (I) (91)
19U- PRIMARY COLOR, EXTERIOR, LAMP BLACK (91)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/DSC00028_zpsnolbpeb0.jpg)
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Perhaps RPO Codes (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32316.msg273202#msg273202) in our Technical Pages will help.
Steering gearbox mounting bolt torque is 75 ft-lbs (1987 Factory Service Manual (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/ST_330_87_1987_Chevrolet_Light_Duty_Truck_Service_Manual.pdf#page=255)).
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Perhaps RPO Codes (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32316.msg273202#msg273202) in our Technical Pages will help.
Steering gearbox mounting bolt torque is 75 ft-lbs (1987 Factory Service Manual (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/ST_330_87_1987_Chevrolet_Light_Duty_Truck_Service_Manual.pdf#page=255)).
Thanks I got one more code from that sheet still haven't been able to locate the rest. I was missing the on bolt on the gear box and another one on a bracket that goes to the front bumper.
After I get my lowering kit installed, I am probably going to order the jegs longtube headers and have a new exhaust welded on it.
Wanting to gave these 3.08 gears swapped out for something like a 3.73 for some more low end go.
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Time to get a little Low, 2.5/4 lowering kit. Have new brake lines and pads, I was going to order upper and lower control arms but Rock auto does not list lower control arms only uppers. Would like to find a set rather than pressing out the ball joints and bushings.....but looks like I may be rebuilding the ones in it, the lowers atleast can't find them anywhere.
Will also go ahead and replace inner/outer tie rod ends and sleeves, pitman and idler arm while I am in there I guess.
Climbed back under the truck before I headed to work and all the rubber boots are in pretty bad shape after all and have dirt under them it looks like.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/c1b866830873cead95175c97bb6a9108.jpg)
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Just going to rebuild it all, looks like a cold next couple weeks anyway. Might as well be in the garage getting the suspension and steering right while I'm lowering it and before I get it aligned.
Would like to drive down to Atlanta and pick up a set of longtube headers and reducers from summit and have an exhaust put on by the end of the year.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/0aed39edb22619a0a4e99c46cab2999b.jpg)
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I am pretty new to doing this type of work so I am going to make a list of the tool I need to borrow from the auto parts store here so I can remember what all to get. If I dont get them all please add what you think I may need.
1: Ball joint press and possibly adapter set
2: Inner tie rod tool and adapter
3: Axle nut socket - Need to find size may already have it
4: bearing race install set
5: Pitman arm puller
6: Bench Vise - Going to pickup next week
7: Brake line forming tool - to reroute lines with drop spindles
8: Impact wrench
9: Pickle fork - already have this
Plan to use jack stands and then use my jack to hold coil spring until ball joints are free and I can slowly release the pressure on it. I see the upper ball joints are held in with rivet and need to be cut off and knocked out before bolting in new ball joint. Lowers I assume can be pressed out with the C clamp tool and pressed back in.
I am thinking I can either push out bushings with vise or burn them out and then press in the new ones with the vise.
Helpful Links I have found on this job so far:
http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/frontend.htm
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/1d66bf3194c4143cdcbd25b5af712fbe.jpg)
Fender and cab corners waiting on rear lower quarter panel and gas tank to go under bed in rear and the time to install it.
Working a good bit of OT during the holidays, but hoping I can get all the suspension and steering done by mid december.
Then take a day to install headers and reducers and have exhaust put on.
And start body work and install new fuel lines/tank/pump etc... by the begining of the year if everything goes well.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/17583c8c755f608baf002a53b68f5534.jpg)
Santa showing up early this year.
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A freind from work also gave me a set of 3.73 gears that will work with my 10 bolt 8.5" rear end as well. A lot of parts, now i just need the time to start installing them all.
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Good luck on your project bud. I have had good luck with Mevotech too, you must have been on Rock Auto. I just did the rear suspension on my 90 camaro and it was a major PITA. I just bought the car and I had to replace the Tank, Sender and Fuel pump, which on these cars we have to drop the whole rear end out , so I figured might as well get her done. Keep it up and hope you get her done soon. I will be tackling the front end this winter as well.
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Was hoping to get shackles installed today, got them on but had to cut the bed mount for them to work properly. Installed everything and didnt cut out enough for the bolts to fit....start again tomorrow and hopefully finish cutting bed mounts and do the hangers before I go back to work.
Wheel bearing will be here monday, goi g to have to wait a week or so to start front end rebuild. Once its all done I'm taking a week off from working on it before I start body work and maybe new gas tank in spare tire area.
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Shackles are in and have the bed support cut, going to have to drop the tank to get to the rivets on the hanger with my grinder it looks like. Looking to be christmas before I will even be able to start on the front suspension and steering.
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Got one side almost apart and decided to just buy new upper and lower control arms instead of fighting with mine rebuilding them. May keep the old ones and rebuild later or sale them with the rebuild items I have haven't decided yet.
Plan to pull the rest apart tomorrow and go ahead and replace the steering components and wait on my new control arms.
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Ready for new parts to come in, just need to remove calipers, lines, idler and pitman arms. Getting new rotors and brake calipers and have new hard lines to bend for drop spindles.
Then re-install all new parts and will be ready to start on body panel patches and gas tank relocation.
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Found out I ordered the wrong lower control arms (C20) but lucked out and got the order canceled before it left the warehouse.
So I will be rebuilding my lowers after all, ball joints are out and when I get off work later this week I will be drilling/burning out the bushings and replacing them along with ball joints then bolting it all back togethor and having it aligned.
----** Tip on the bushings - After cutting off the outer rubber, Take a 3/8 drill bit or similar size and drill a couple holes in rubber part of bushing, then drill at the edge right up against the metal insert and the rubber portion will "pull upward" and out easily.
Then its on to having my shop built, starting/finishing body panel replacement and tank relocation and looking into what motor I am going to run.
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Finished up the suspension/steering rebuild today. Need to bleed the brakes have it aligned to be completely done.
Before:(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170109/2bc2720ba342d0e0d77c875152f3d06c.jpg)
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After:
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Just something I noticed. Your brake lines to your calipers are routed incorrect. They should be routed below the upper A arm and behind the spindle and not on top of the upper ball joint.
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With the drop spindles they would not go under the control arm. Have seen them routed this way and emailed the guy who had done it and said his has been trouble free for a couple years run like this.
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I never would have guessed that. But, I have not installed dropped spindles either. Learn something every day. If they have to be routed that way it may be wise to put a piece of hose around the brake line where it rests on top to prevent chaffing of the line against the metal surface. How much of a drop are you going with?
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Looks good! What shocks are u running?
On the breaks lines that's the same way I started off with myne until i blew one it was rubbing on the control arm and blew just keep an eye on it unless u got extended lines you should be fine..
I ended up re routing them under the control arm by bending down the fitting without kinking it.
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They are 2.5" drop spindkes.
I will evetually route them under, my brake line bending pliers arebt quite large enough to bend these
Shocks are stock length gabriels from autozone.
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Just need an aligbment now and let it settle. Both sides are a hair under 30", around 29.8.
Still have to do the 2" hangers to be done with lowering it. And will likely go up to 50 series tires in the back and 40s in the front once these wear out.
Next is probably going to be my rear mounted tank and while the bed is off I will do the hangers.
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Got alignment and the shop flushed and bled my brakes for me, I bled them last week and they seemed fine until I left for the alignment shop and they got squishy enough that I did not want to drive home without having it done.
On the way home had the issue with truck dyeing at a red-light again and when trying to back into the garage it would die as soon as it went into gear. So I started checking everything again, have already replaced some things when I first had this issue. Checked vacuum with gauge and it was good , tried testing fuel pump but the gauge I bought from HF for vacuum only goes to 10 psi and does not have correct fitting.
Tried it anyway at fuel filter and it was leaking a little but only got to 4 psi before dropping, going to rent a gauge tomorrow and try again....leaning toward this being the problem. If this is the case I am going to find which Blazer tank can be mounted at rear of truck between frame rails and order tank, sending unit, inline fuel pump, inline regulator and new lines. Plan is to put in a L31 motor and FiTech unit this summer and was planning on moving gas tank anyway.....just have to be done a little sooner that I planned.
Other cause I have been reading on is that the TCC solenoid is not disengaging but I am hoping this is not the case since it would mean I have to drop the pan. Supposedly the last owner had trans rebuilt, the shop I bought it from had no paper work of this. But the trans cross member bolts were loose so it could have been. Guess I can test this out by letting it warm up and driving it around in Drive and not OD for awhile and see if it stalls when stopped.
Buddy gave me a headlight kit that I will be installing soon and I got my new black billet grill in the mail. Think I am going to pull the rest of them trim off around feners and windows later on as well.
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Changed out tps with one I ordered a while back and never put in, old one was reading a good bit off from ground to the blue wire and ground to gray wire. Used this guide to test it: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/tp-sensor-tests-1
Followed the test with the old tps and reading were off a bit, blue to ground was 1.12DCV when throttle was closed all the way with throttle screw, new one is .75DCV with idle set by ear and can lower. When throttle is open all the way I get 4.45DCV with new tps. All the other test are good with the new tps.
Tested fuel pump and got 12-13 psi while idling and while revving, so it should be good. Drives fine to start and runs through gears great, shifts smooth and when it should. Problem comes when I come to a stop, it will shudder and die at some red lights.
Got it back home after taking it down the road and warming everything up to operating temps. Put it in reverse and backed up rpm dropped and it died.
Put in P and started it back up, idles fine in P and N. Shift into R or OD and it shifts Hard and dies sometimes right away. Sometimes it will idle a few seconds and slowly die out. I do not have an rpm gauge but I did idle it by ear after resetting the IAC, need to set idle in OD or D with an rpm gauge. Probably be my next thing to get and see what the rpm actually is.
Also may unplug TCC solenoid and get it up to temp and run it down the road up to 4th gear and back home to see if it still has the problem. If not could be a bad TCC solenoid or could be shorted to ground. I did replace this plug since the old ones lock tab was broke so could be the case as well.
Faulty Transmission Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid:
SYMPTOMS - Failed in the Open Position
The symptoms are different a torque converter clutch solenoid that fails in the open position... The symptoms of a torque converter clutch solenoid that fails while in the open position are quite different from a solenoid that fails in the closed position, as described above. When the solenoid is open, the engine is locked to the transmission so there is no transmission slip. With the transmission unable to slip, the engine will stall when the vehicle comes to a stop.
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New dash speakers installed today. 4 - 3.5's and new dash pad with trim piece "re-used silverado emblem". Led's installed in gauge cluster.
Need to screw down the dash pad and get the cluster put back in. Have some door trim to get rid of the vinyl handles. Was going to keep them but didnt want to buy all the pieces I am missing and are broken on them. So I bought the aluminum strip that will cover that whole area.
Need to go get a cd player and some rear speakers, hoping some 5.25's or 6.5's will fit in the factory mounting plates....even if I have to cut them.
Still need new carpet and either new seats or install a new cover for interior to be where I want it.
Going to unplug tcc solenoid this week when I get interior done and see if it idles correctly as red lights after being on the highway. If it does going to have it replaced or replace it myself when I pull motor/trans for the L31 I want to put in it.
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Dash installed and new gauge cluster put in. Working on getting new window channel run put in and painted door panels re-installed. Then interior will be good enough forbme until I can get some new carpet and a new seat cover put on.
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Started on the window weather stripping today, also got the old grill pulled out and everything painted black that will be behind the new grille and lights. Tomorrow I will either finish up the headlights and grille or start installing the weather stripping on the vent windows and the run channel. Will still need carpet and a seat cover to be done with the inside, other than the stereo.
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Passenger side vent window done, needed new latches for both sides. The latches are missing a few pieces so ordered those. Going to pull driver side and do it tonight or possibly tomorrow.
Turned out pretty good, a lot better than I was expecting. Used regular pop rivets, from reading online they work well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/bc44840792c905e4716c47cc2806e812.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/a30586af9d157a53275a8c003f83d098.jpg)
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Passenger side weather stripping is done, hopefully can finish up the interior the next week I am off and start driving it.
Still need another day or two of work to finish it up. Needs driver side vent window glass, weatherstripping and both vent latches, window channel run, hd window harness for both sides, both door panels re-installed, cd player and amp kit installed. Waiting to order carpet until I decide which seat I want to use. Leaning toward the 99 and up 60/40 full size gm truck seats.
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Pulled it out of the garage to let it run a little while and get up to temp.
https://youtu.be/dDkzBj7tL0o
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Have been thinking more on what motor I am going to run now that I am getting closer having the interior done and will need to look at moving the gas tank and running new lines/pump.
I am leaning towards the LM7 with factory EFI, have been looking a ton of threads of others who have done the swap to see what all I will need. I am leaning towards buying a donor truck so I can use the seats in it as well as the motor/trans/harness etc... But the Vortec with fitech is looking a whole lot quicket to install and less modifications to make lol.
Found a lot of helpful info here
http://lt1swap.com/index.htm
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Door panels in and all window weather stripping installed. HD window harness and relays installed and trying to get my new headlights and relays in tomorrow.
Ordering a power distribution block for the wires needing to go to my battery. Still need to order carpet and find some seats but that may wait until after I have my motor swap done.
I also got the power wire run for the amp, now need to run remote and rca wires to have it all set up and ready. Getting pretty close to removing the bed for the fuel tank relocation.
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Got the new headlights and harness installed and they are BRIGHT. Ordered new headlight bezels from Summit and should have them Tuesday to put on. Need to find a new grill trim piece so I can get rid of this black one, or may try soaking it in paint thinner along with bow tie.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/91ca8bda961b79bb7ed48c5a5932ea6c.jpg)
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I got a little bit done today on my truck. Pulled the bent front bumper and driver seide fender.
Got my new fender mounted and it lines up well with the hood and cab near windshield.
Was going to replace driver side door hinge pins/bushings....had a good bit of door sag and they were very sloppy. Got the pins out and the bottom hole on the upper and lower hinges was wore out so I pulled the door off and ordered new hinges.
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Got the carpet in and all the interior back togethor, going to start driving it a little more now. Have a good bit of junk from the truck to haul off thats been building up in the bed.
Going to start looking at installing the new fuel tank and lines soon in preperation for the motor swap. However, the trucks runs so well now that I may get some 3.42 or 3.73 gears to tide me over until this winter and swap the motor out then. Just needs a little more pep off the line......well alot more pep. Also may go ahead and install my longtube headers and have the exhaust run out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170406/eb18c89a05ff7ce4f035e257d8be8b1f.jpg)
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Finally had time to wash and wax it. Will need some rubbing compound on a few spots but it looks pretty good for 30 year old paint. Also may go ahead and sand down were the trim going down the middle of the truck used to be and fill it in and prime/paint again. It left some pretty good pitting that can be seen under the gloss enamel I sprayed on it the first time.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/91d68ef0400f755d182e7c37439e313b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/a53f18ce254d0463f99f31848672dbe8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/b09fe54012426e8bc86351cf0f65187f.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/20170414_143917_zpsnahwkwcw.jpg)
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(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/bigboi18184/DSC00141_zpsmvczcfej.jpg)
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Getting fairly close to the beginning process of ordering a motor, have a few I am looking at and after throwing around several ideas the last few months I am thinking the Vortec L31-R motor is going to be the way to go. The price difference from the older style is not that much more for a better engine from what I have been reading, plan was to run Fitech but re-thinking that now. I will likely run a carb to start and decide on going to Fitech later down the road. Will likely not put enough miles on it to justify spending the extra 1k on it.
There are a few other odds and ends I didn't put down but most things will be moving from my 305 to the Vortec motor. All my sensors and plugs are new, plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm swapping them over. Going to try to get my headers and exhaust put on before the end of June so that will be done.
Here is the list of items I have found so far I will need: Is there anything else missing besides gaskets and bolts?
1: Engine: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283
2: Carb: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-14063
3: Intake: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226018-b
4: Distributor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850050 or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r/overview/
5: Water Pump: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-252-711
6:Flex-plate https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-399773/overview/make/chevrolet