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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: philo_beddoe on November 10, 2016, 07:32:28 am
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I received a couple of free cases of 10w40, engine calls for 10w30. I have been using the 1040 since the summer, but is there any concerns using it during the cold winter months? Should I use a thinner oil, especially in a new crate 350?
Also, I've always wanted to know, is using dry gas in these classic vehicles safe? Any concerns or is it perfectly fine for everything it runs through? Thanks..
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I received a couple of free cases of 10w40, engine calls for 10w30. I have been using the 1040 since the summer, but is there any concerns using it during the cold winter months? Should I use a thinner oil, especially in a new crate 350?
Also, I've always wanted to know, is using dry gas in these classic vehicles safe? Any concerns or is it perfectly fine for everything it runs through? Thanks..
You should be fine with 10-40 all year. I use a 20/50 during summer in texas and 10/40 during winter which is only a couple months here anyway.
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i think you'll be ok with the 40. Although i prefer 30 in SBC's.
What brand is the oil?
What is dry gas?
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To be a 10W the oil has to meet cold flow ratings. It doesn't matter what the second number is. The 30,40,50 refers to film strength when the oil is hot. Your 10W40 will be fine. Put a block heater in your truck.
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i think you'll be ok with the 40. Although i prefer 30 in SBC's.
What brand is the oil?
What is dry gas?
Various brands of oil,
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-dry-gas
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To be a 10W the oil has to meet cold flow ratings. It doesn't matter what the second number is. The 30,40,50 refers to film strength when the oil is hot. Your 10W40 will be fine. Put a block heater in your truck.
Its not THAT cold in MA Cap'n. Lol
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To be a 10W the oil has to meet cold flow ratings. It doesn't matter what the second number is. The 30,40,50 refers to film strength when the oil is hot. Your 10W40 will be fine. Put a block heater in your truck.
Its not THAT cold in MA Cap'n. Lol
True but the truck will warm up quicker for the heat so he won't be cold :)
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We used to use 10w40 year round. 10w30 only came about in response to stricter fuel mileage requirements.
My 454 is built up pretty good and I ran Valvoline VR1 20w50 in it year round with no issues at all. Look at page 6 in my monster truck build thread for a report on how it looks after about 12 winters of cold starts.
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Ok, so is using dry gas safe?
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-dry-gas
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I got a bunch of sae30 oil for free. Isnit safe to use?
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What requirements does it meet?
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Doing some research it looks to be a little thick for winter. Better for lawn mowers and such.
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Run 10w30. You can mix in a quart of the 10w40 til you use it up once it warms up again.
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Uh oh, i just did a full oil change of 10w40. Is it the end of the world? But thats the end of it, back to 10w30 very soon. Still putting in 4oz of zddp though.
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I don't think 10w40 will be a problem if you added the ZDDP. The 10w is the key parameter for cold weather.
My favorite high ZDDP oil is the Mobil 1 15w50 (with 1300 PPM zinc and 1200 phosphorous) that is listed on this Mobil product sheet.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf
I can sometimes find it at Walmart in the 5 quart bottles, and they always have it at Advanced Auto Parts when they have a sale on Mobil 1. Since it has the high ZDDP already I don't worry about any additives.
Bruce
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Isn't that a bit thick for these old school engines? I use to put that in my 7.3 turbo diesel f-350.
Your right though, I looked at the chart, those levels are right up there. I'll switch if I get some solid confirmation that that 15w50 is safe for my crate 350 year round. Normally I use Valvoline 10w30 max life syn-blend and add 4oz zddp, lucas brand.
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i'm old school..........run straight 30.......in everything...........no issues.......ohio weather
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The "W" means winter.
In the bad old days, you'd run 30 weight oil in summer, and a 10 weight oil in winter.
A 10W30 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
A 10W40 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
The 10W is fine.
And for something different, I'm running a 15W50 up here in Canada. Through winter, no less. It will be fine. Don't fret.
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The "W" means winter.
In the bad old days, you'd run 30 weight oil in summer, and a 10 weight oil in winter.
A 10W30 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
A 10W40 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
The 10W is fine.
And for something different, I'm running a 15W50 up here in Canada. Through winter, no less. It will be fine. Don't fret.
But what if you lived in death valley (130 in the shade) lol.
Nonetheless, thanks for the reply.
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If you're looking for more ZDDP get Shell Rotella T6. Diesel engine oils tend to have more ZDDP and Detergent additives than their spark ignition counterparts. T6 is full synthetic 5W40 Diesel oil.
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But it says its for diesels...
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Diesel oil in a gas engine is perfectly fine. Even if you live in Death Valley.
As Hatzie says, it's higher in ZDDP (good for flat tappet cams) and Detergents (good for everything), and can probably handle more abuse than oils for spark engines - which is another reason why I'm running Shell Rotella Diesel oil in my 10.9:1 engine (with another ZDDP additive for good measure).
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Ok, thanks for the reply. Good info...
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The "W" means winter.
In the bad old days, you'd run 30 weight oil in summer, and a 10 weight oil in winter.
A 10W30 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
A 10W40 oil will act like a 10 in Winter, and a 30 in summer.
The 10W is fine.
And for something different, I'm running a 15W50 up here in Canada. Through winter, no less. It will be fine. Don't fret.
A multiviscosity oil rating does not have a summer rating. The first number represents it's viscosity at 0°F (W) and the second number represents its viscosity at 212°F. So a 10W30 will flow like a 10 weight at 0°F and flow like a 30 weight at 212°F
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Diesel oil in a gas engine is perfectly fine. Even if you live in Death Valley.
As Hatzie says, it's higher in ZDDP (good for flat tappet cams) and Detergents (good for everything), and can probably handle more abuse than oils for spark engines - which is another reason why I'm running Shell Rotella Diesel oil in my 10.9:1 engine (with another ZDDP additive for good measure).
Diesel oil will work just fine in a spark ignition engine. Most even say so on the API seal... Rotella T6 is rated for SM, SL, & SH along with the CJ-4 and other Diesel specs. C=Compression ignition S=Spark Ignition.
You want Zinc above 1000 ppm and Phosphorous above 800. More is just gliding the lily. Diesel oils tend to have those levels of basic antiwear compounds and some other less common ones like Molybdenum.
Diesel oils will always have about double the Calcium (detergent) of straight spark ignition oils. Detergent keeps the smaller crud in suspension so it drains out when you pull the oil plug out of the pan instead of precipitating out of suspension all over the engine guts as sludge.