73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: Stucs on April 10, 2017, 12:43:34 am
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I bent it a bit when trying to undo the fitting. Not enough to fully pinch it though. Will that cause a problem or should I get a new line? I don't know what it's technically called so I can't find a replacement online yet.
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Brake Booster Vacuum Line. Depends on how much constriction it may have caused. Have you tried to blow threw it an checked for leaks. Picture would help.
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It's so inexpensive, I would replace it or cut it and reflare it.
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Sorry for the delayed reply - had trouble logging in the last few weeks! Doesn't seem to be too constricted. I'll post a photo tomorrow when I've had a chance to take a closer look.
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Sorry for the delayed reply - had trouble logging in the last few weeks! Doesn't seem to be too constricted. I'll post a photo tomorrow when I've had a chance to take a closer look.
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And here are some pics. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170511/51114bf6ab739b934598ccf205a649eb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170511/96e6d9ca488b75e3dd1ac42097420c58.jpg)
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Is that a crack in the tube at the dented part?
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Is that a crack in the tube at the dented part?
It looks like a gouge, but I don't think it goes all the way through. Although maybe it's worth it to replace, just in case?
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Don't send a single wrench to do a two wrench job.........lol
Been there done that. Ya, replace it. Don't forget the Never-Seez.
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Don't send a single wrench to do a two wrench job.........lol
Been there done that. Ya, replace it. Don't forget the Never-Seez.
Can't seem to find that part online anywhere! Any suggestions on where to look?
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Salvage yard,or pick and pull, whatever they call it in your area,,might have to remove carb and turn it instead of posibbly kinking line.
I'd suggest making a list of other items you might need and looking for them at the same time.
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If you're unable to find a suitable replacement, the tube can be fabricated easily if you have available a tubing bender and bead former (or double flaring tool) to add a shallow barb on the hose end of the 3/8" steel tube. The raw materials - straight 3/8" steel tube in various lengths with flare fittings pre-installed - are available at auto parts stores like NAPA. Cut the new tube to the exact length you need, form a hose barb on the free end and voila! To form the hose barb using a double flaring tool, just begin to swage the tube using a double flaring die, forming just enough of a bead to retain the hose.
To install the replacement tube, wrap the flare nut threads with two turns of Teflon tape then back up the baseplate fitting in the carburetor and use a 6-point flare nut wrench on the tubing nut to tighten.
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A flare fitting shouldn't need teflon tape on the threads - the sealing is at the flare.
Pipe thread uses teflon tape or equivalent, because the sealing is in the threads.
But yeah - easy to fabricate out of 3/8" fuel line as mentioned above.
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A flare fitting shouldn't need teflon tape on the threads - the sealing is at the flare.
Pipe thread uses teflon tape or equivalent, because the sealing is in the threads.
But yeah - easy to fabricate out of 3/8" fuel line as mentioned above.
Teflon tape on a flare fitting connection isn't for sealing the thread; it lubricates the thread so the tube fitting can be tightened properly to seat the flare without distortion.
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Well that makes sense.
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Thanks guys! I'll give that a shot. I don't have the tools yet but wanted to also work on some corroded brake lines, so might as well tackle both jobs.
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I'm new to trucks, but it don't seem right to have a solid line from carb to brake booster.
The booster is mounted solid on the firewall and the engine moves around on rubber mounts.
Should be some flex between them. I would take your orig line to a parts store and have them
Fix you up with new fittings so you can use a rubber hose between carb and booster. Are you
Trying to keep it looking orig? Just my .02. Jerry
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Jerry, the steel line runs only a few inches away from the base of the carburetor where it connects to special, thick wall rubber hose that runs the remaining distance to the booster. The presence of the throttle/cruise/transmission cable bracket and manifold fittings, in conjunction with the close proximity of the distributor, cramp the area behind the carburetor. The steel pipe ensures against potential chafing and perforation of a full length flexible conduit.
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Thanks rich. I learn something new every day. Since I got my 87 r10 350 700r4 , I am learning
a lot about trucks. I tried to relate cars to trucks. There is a difference.
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Yeah! Trucks have more room making them easier to work on... unless you have short legs. lol
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Yeah! Trucks have more room making them easier to work on... unless you have short legs. lol
There's lots of ways to get around the short leg problem, but very few ways to make your fingers and arms smaller to work on other crud.
Yay trucks!