73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: arecee on October 17, 2017, 05:44:54 am
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84 Chev K20, 350 engine. I bought this truck new, now pushing 300k miles. Recently had zero oil pressure, thought it was the sending unit till the lifters started clacking, turned out the intermediate shaft to the oil pump.
BUT when I dropped the pan I found an "extra bolt" laying in the pan!!! I traced it down to a cam sprocket bolt, no idea how long it's been laying there, 1st time the pan has been off.
Here's my question, over the years I've replaced the water pump 3 times and what should be an easy job is a real PITA due to the alt, A/C & PS brackets. With 300k miles, good time to replace the timing sprockets and chain and check if it really has a missing cam sprocket bolt. Great time to replace and simplify the brackets. Would like to keep the current (long) water pump and pulleys. Can anyone recommend replacement brackets??
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As far as the alternator, i think this is a better and more logical way to do it----with the tensioning rod vs. the factory bracket:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txg9Z3hW210
But you would still have to remove it in order to replace the w/p, so that's out.
If you have space.............
http://marchperformance.com/chevy/chevy-small-block/brackets/long-water-pump/chevy-small-block-long-water-pump-low-mount-power-steering-bracket-kit.html
http://www.vegasrodparts.com/product-p/10420.htm
i don't have time to do more research. i agree that changing the w/p out is a PITA
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P.S.
Actually, if you flip thru the March catalog, they do have brackets that don't attach to the water pump for both P/S, alternator and possibly A/C. i just don't have time to do more research because the factory stuff works for me.
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The factory bracketry is stout, most of the aftermarket stuff is either inferior or a few thousand dollars. Considering your mileage and random parts falling off, it would be a good time to consider an engine overhaul.
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BUT when I dropped the pan I found an "extra bolt" laying in the pan!!!
Been there, done that. Only mine was on a BMW with an engine that costs $10k to replace. Not to mention all the expensive stuff you'll break performing the operation. My heart nearly stopped when I saw it. I had to go take a walk to stop shaking as visions of what might have happened danced through my head. One of the oil pump mounting bolts fell out. Eek. That car was a learning curve.
x2 on those serpentine conversions. Really sweet, but hard to justify at ~$1000.
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The factory bracketry is stout, most of the aftermarket stuff is either inferior or a few thousand dollars. Considering your mileage and random parts falling off, it would be a good time to consider an engine overhaul.
Agree that the factory brackets work well. But don't you think the tensioning rod setup for the alternator that some companies, like March, offer is a better way to do it? At least for the alternator?
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If you are referring to the heim joints that people use, they provide no deflection rigidity.
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Thanks for the replies guys, some food for thought. Serpentine conversion is interesting, but hardly worth the $$ IMO. I can turn a few bolts for that kind of $$. Since I've replaced the declutching fan with an electric, getting the weight off the water pump may eliminate the replacing water pump every 100k issue. But I still plan on replacing the timing gears & chain and see it that bolt is really out of the cam sprocket (or did some bored line worker toss in a non extra cost option).
The A/C has been off for years, and the cost to convert it to R134a, A/C may never be replaced ;) , I don't live in a warm area, so air isn't really important to me.
As for rebuilding... compression (165-175 on all 8 holes) & oil pressure is still good (now since I replaced the intermediate shaft), uses a quart between oil changes, I've been good about doing that every 2500-3000 miles, probably why it's lasted so long. If it gives me another 100k, it will probably out last me. Hec, I'm already an old fart :)
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If you are referring to the heim joints that people use, they provide no deflection rigidity.
i call heim joints rod ends, but tomato, tomAto etc. By deflection, do you mean if the alternator goes off plane/out of line with the belt? Wouldn't the bracket that bolts to the water pump on the lower passenger side and the bolt that goes into the passenger side head take care of that?
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The factory alternator bracket is fixed and solidly mounted to the engine, providing positive support along three axes. The factory mount provides rigid support to the alternator throughout its service life, sinking vibration energy imparted by the drive belt. Heim joints provide support along one axis and are live due to their ball and socket configuration. Eventually, Heim joints wear out at high cost of replacement. In truth, fixed brackets versus Heim joints both require about the same effort to adjust belt tension. So, the real attraction to Heim joints is aesthetics and uniqueness - they simply look cool.
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They're kinda like mullets, they used to look cool. 8) lol I have removed the ones I used although when my cantilever broke on my plow for my quad I was able to repurpose one :)
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Factory went to a lot of trouble to design such things and have worked for many moons.