73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Mike1973 on October 30, 2017, 06:13:56 am
-
1979 Chevy Silverado camper special 2 wd dually 4 spd 454 c.i.
Recently I developed a rod knock and have decided to go the way of a reman. motor from https://www.promarengine.com/
Of course while the motor is out I'm going to go ahead and replace the clutch. I haul a lot of firewood in the bed along with a trailer. Should I go with a stock clutch or should I go with something more heavy duty? To be honest the stock clutch has worked fine so I may have just answered my question. If a heavier clutch is an idea what clutch should I use if someone could post a link. Further, I'm not really a clutch guru so question on the flywheel. Leave the current flywheel as is or do I need to have it surfaced?
Thanks for any input.
-
Yep. You answered your own question regarding the clutch. Regarding the flywheel, anytime you replace the disc following normal service life, check the friction face height and surface the flywheel. Don't forget to check the fork and pivot ball and replace the pocket and T/O bearings.
-
Yep. You answered your own question regarding the clutch. Regarding the flywheel, anytime you replace the disc following normal service life, check the friction face height and surface the flywheel. Don't forget to check the fork and pivot ball and replace the pocket and T/O bearings.
Thank you for the reply. Sounds good, I'll order a stock clutch. So the thought is just from normal wear the fork and pivot ball can sustain wear to the point of needing replaced? I'll order up both to have on hand just in case (I'm going to do the swap in 1 day so I'm getting everything together so there is no running around. "pocket bearing" this is a new term for me. Enlighten me?
-
"Pocket bearing" is synonymous with "pilot bearing." It's sometimes referred to as a pocket bearing, because it resides in a blind hole, or pocket in the end of the crankshaft.
The fork pivot ball should be semi-spherical and caged into a cupped socket in the backside of the fork. The majority of fork wear occurs at the tips that wrap the T/O bearing, at the pivot ball socket, and at the pushrod socket.
-
With a granny four speed a clutch should last a long time
I'd order one from a NAPA or some store that can get you a high quality clutch that's NOT made in China
And if you don't specify that when you order it , that's what you will get
As mentioned , get the flywheel resurfaced at a local
Machine shop
And make sure your replacement engine has the proper crankshaft to use your flywheel
GM used several different cranks
A lot of them don't have the hole machined for the pilot bearing and may not have the proper offset for a manual Trans flywheel
-
"Pocket bearing" is synonymous with "pilot bearing." It's sometimes referred to as a pocket bearing, because it resides in a blind hole, or pocket in the end of the crankshaft.
The fork pivot ball should be semi-spherical and caged into a cupped socket in the backside of the fork. The majority of fork wear occurs at the tips that wrap the T/O bearing, at the pivot ball socket, and at the pushrod socket.
Sure sure I'm following you now, Ive never heard it called the "pocket"
Thank you.
-
With a granny four speed a clutch should last a long time
I'd order one from a NAPA or some store that can get you a high quality clutch that's NOT made in China
And if you don't specify that when you order it , that's what you will get
As mentioned , get the flywheel resurfaced at a local
Machine shop
And make sure your replacement engine has the proper crankshaft to use your flywheel
GM used several different cranks
A lot of them don't have the hole machined for the pilot bearing and may not have the proper offset for a manual Trans flywheel
Great info in the clutch thanks. Wonderful, I can see how this could end up a dumpster fire. hole machined that's pretty easy, proper offset, maybe not so easy.
-
With a granny four speed a clutch should last a long time
I'd order one from a NAPA or some store that can get you a high quality clutch that's NOT made in China
And if you don't specify that when you order it , that's what you will get
As mentioned , get the flywheel resurfaced at a local
Machine shop
And make sure your replacement engine has the proper crankshaft to use your flywheel
GM used several different cranks
A lot of them don't have the hole machined for the pilot bearing and may not have the proper offset for a manual Trans flywheel
Great info in the clutch thanks. Wonderful, I can see how this could end up a dumpster fire. hole machined that's pretty easy, proper offset, maybe not so easy.
Yep
I'm no guru on The differences of GM engines but you need to make sure the engine rebuilder is
I always prefer having my engine rebuilt by a local machine shop with a good reputation
Than getting another engine
There are lots of different crankshafts depending on if it was in front of an automatic or manual
And some GM engines had internally balanced cranks and some had balanced flywheels
Some had different offsets on the back for the flywheels
Since most vehicles were automatics
The odds are good that you could wind up with an engine that won't work with a real mans transmission
I have a wood stove also
In fact for the last 10 years it's been our only source of heat
-
Might also inspect flywheel for heat checks or cracks before going to machine shop. If found, replace flywheel.
-
I also have a tip to help make things easier
Get some bolts that hold the Trans to the bell housing but get them a couple inches longer than stock bolts
Cut off the head and use a hacksaw to cut a slot for a screwdriver where the head used to be
Replace the original bolts with the longer headless bolts and then you can slide the Trans off and on easily while matching up the splines on the input shaft
Get a transmission jack
A floor jack will work if you make a platform out of wood or metal to sit on top of the jack