Post by: jmacintosh on May 16, 2006, 11:04:00 pm
When the tranny is cold, it hangs and slips going from first to second gear. I have to mash the pedal, get the truck up to almost 30 in 1st gear before she drops in second. This gets better as the tranny warms up, but it never fully goes away. Tried several adjustments with the t/v (detent) cable setting, and it doesn't really change anything. Once up to speed, it won't kick down when I mash the gas, like when I am going up hill. I expect it to drop a gear, but it won't. And it feels bogged down, like it is losing power no matter how hard I mash it.
My tranny is supposedly a 3 speed w/ overdrive...400 I believe. So when it shifts while cold at say 30 mph, when it warms up it shifts around 20 mph.
Post by: Blazin on May 16, 2006, 10:23:00 pm
Post by: cooltoolguy on May 17, 2006, 05:23:00 am
Post by: jmacintosh on May 17, 2006, 02:12:00 pm
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: 123 pugsy on May 18, 2006, 12:28:00 pm
Post by: 123 pugsy on May 19, 2006, 12:25:00 pm
Post by: jmacintosh on May 19, 2006, 02:05:00 pm
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: VileZambonie on May 20, 2006, 11:21:00 am
Post by: 123 pugsy on May 20, 2006, 09:31:00 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on May 21, 2006, 09:13:00 am
The reason I said to do this inside of the vehicle rather than at the carb is it will actually give you a better initial adjustment reagrdless of what carburetor you have. Until you have the correct linkage do this or you will have low TV pressure which = low main line pressure in this trans and you will burn it up.
Post by: 123 pugsy on May 22, 2006, 06:25:00 am
Post by: jmacintosh on May 25, 2006, 01:15:00 am
Bad Torque Converter
Bad Clutch
Incorrect valve body installed by previous owner. (Who had a camper on the back by the way)
Any adjustment of the TV cable has produced the same result. There were a couple of things at work here, and I would guess that the problems were probably there before, but are now manifesting themselves because of the engine work that has been done to this point.
Before the tranny troubles, I would experience a little slip from 1-2. Fluid check would normally help alleviate it. Once I decided to work on the motor a little, I then realized I was running on 7 cylinders, or just has really bad detonation on the number 4 cylinder. When pulled, that plug looked like it had a bunch of junk on the end of it, and the insulation around the electrode was broken off.
Since then...
Valve adjustment
New Plugs (same heat range)
New Wires
New Distributor (Accel 14k volt)
New Holley 650 cfm spread bore 4 bbl carb including bracket to level the pull from the TV and throttle cables.
New transmission fluid and filter.
Now we have a lot more power, and the same, already tiring tranny. It is a 700r4 3 spd w/ OD. Upon pulling the pan, we had metal floating around...not a good sign.
No matter where the TV cable is adjusted, it won't drop down a gear when you floor it at any speed...AND...It will slip between all gears...AND...never go into overdrive.
When cold the tranny will shift...
1-2 30-35 mph
2-3 50-55 mph
no other shifts while on highway as far up as 70 mph
Once warmed up the tranny will shift...
1-2 20-25 mph
2-3 45-50 mph
no other shifts while on highway as far up as 70 mph
When I am on my way home from work the tranny just starts getting warm, and there is a long hill. The tranny will not get the truck up to 65 mph. Once it makes that 2-3 shift around 55 mph, You can hear it slipping and shuddering up the hill. Mash the pedal...it slips, try to back off the pedal to let the tranny grab onto 3rd gear, and you slow down considerably. Of course you can't get back on the gas again because it will start to shudder.
I was asked if the guy who owned the truck before did any towing. He did have a harness of the back for a trailer, and that bar across the bottom of the truck for a camper he had. There was also the possibility that this guy put in a valve body more suited for towing, which would effectively remove the overdrive, and leave you with 3 gears.
Also, it would appear the torque lockout wiring harness has become dislodged from it's socket on the tranny. Which for however long, has now increased the pressure inside the tranny, and the torque converter, possibly killing the torque converter.
So...I am looking at a rebuild, and set everything back the way it should be...including the torque converter, clutch pack, and whatever else I'm gonna need.
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: VileZambonie on May 25, 2006, 05:11:00 am
There are many updates on the 700R4 make sure you do all of them otherwise you will have a new weak transmission
Post by: jmacintosh on May 25, 2006, 10:02:00 am
With the amount of work that has been done so far, it will be interesting to see just how much power makes it to the wheels after the tranny is done.
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: 123 pugsy on June 10, 2006, 08:54:00 am
Had a homemade bracket on it but wasn't a 100% sure if it was good so I ordered one.Wouldn't you know ,when I got it ,mine was almost identical.Just a hair off.
Post by: tlynde on June 12, 2006, 10:41:00 am
the description you gave of how your 86 was running is almost a mirror of how my 83, 350 was running except it was the number 5 cylinder on mine that was not firing and all gunked up.
I replaced the 350 with a 383 and a edelbrock and I have the same detent problems that your having.
never could get it dialed in. (hand shift)
the tranny was weak anyway and now getting weaker.
what I'm going to do is trash that *^%$ 700r and build a good strong 400,
screw the mileage.
T
Post by: mpellis on July 12, 2007, 06:26:36 pm
Thanks for your posts in this thread. I had trouble with a hard 1-2 shift and downshifting when going up slight grades. I bought the B&M bracket for my Edelbrock carb. Now it works like a champ. Thanks again. ;D
Post by: 123 pugsy on July 12, 2007, 09:24:18 pm