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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: masgoku on December 24, 2018, 06:46:14 pm
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Having an issue after the Steering Column was taken apart where the returning to the center while driving doesn't work. So makes the truck hard to drive but also noticed the lower steering shaft bearing is worn out so not sure if that is causing the issue. Trying to find the issue steering lock plate was removed wasn't done by me though just trying to find the source of the problem.
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afaik there isnt no "return to center" but physics. if the tires dont go back to center its because something is misaligned, i would think to start looking at the steering box to the tires. unless youre not talking about the truck pulling to one side but the steering wheel is no longer aligned center when going straight?
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Welcome
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What I'm referring to is when you are driving and you turn and then go to let off the Steering wheel and the wheels will kind of go back straight as you go forward or straight. What is happening is when you turn the truck it will just stay turned and the wheels won't naturally straighten up which the truck used to before the Steering Column was taken apart so say if I was to turn to the right slightly to turn at a stop sign and let off the wheel. It will stay turned as much as it did and won't center back out so if you are to turn to the right you have to turn that much to the left to be going straight again. Basically it feels like when you drive a go cart at this point so makes it pretty sketchy to drive around.
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Sounds like your steering shaft is binding, or your power steering unit is. You can separate them at the lower end of the shaft and see if your shaft is the problem.
When you say that the steering column was worked on, what was done, if you know?
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If the problem only occurred after the column was worked on then you need to either repair or replace the column. Sounds like something is binding. Returnability is a function of caster and thrust angle.
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The piece for the turn signal was replaced and I know the Steering lock was removed. I know the lower bushing where the shaft connects by the firewall is super worn out so not sure if that is causing an issue.
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if all you did was take it apart to get to the turn signal cam and you didnt have the issue before, then i would take it back apart and make sure everything is put back together right
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On my truck there is a flat section on the steering column linkage under the hood, and in the center position of the steering wheel that section is facing straight up.
One of the first steering checks is to turn the wheels full lock in each direction, count the number of turns, and then stop at the exact center position. At that point the wheel should be oriented straight up (or very close), the linkage should be centered, and the steering box should be centered. If all that does not line up, you need to adjust tie rods or make other changes to get it aligned.
Then take a look at the steering box itself and check the free play adjustment. If it does not self-center, someone may have tightened it up too much in an effort to take the play out of the steering. Its easy to make the adjustment using the locknut and allen wrench, but takes some work to correctly measure the results.
You are supposed to disconnect the steering link, and then use an inch-lbs torque wrench to verify that the effort needed to turn the wheel does not exceed the specs through out the entire range, measured at the nut in the middle of the steering wheel. If you get the adjustment too tight it may be fine toward the center of the range, but bind/stick badly at the two ends. I think the specs are about 8-14 inch lbs, but I'm not positive.
Bruce
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I recall that the center of Saginaw gear has a high spot and that you need to adjust the screw at that point.
If someone cranked the adjustment screw down that tight I don't think he could turn it past that point.
VZ pointed out correctly that return to center is a function of positive castor.
I say separate the gear box from the shaft and look for what is binding. The lower bearing/bushing is suspect.
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I agree. If the adjustment screw is really tight, it will definitely make it bind/stick and you will not get full range. However, if its just on the edge of being too tight it will just have too much friction, and the wheel will not easily self-center.
When you adjust the play and measure the turning effort you are supposed to turn the wheel through the full range and not exceed the specs at any point. That may leave it feeling a little loose in the middle, but that is okay.
Bruce