73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: gwcrim on January 05, 2020, 10:13:15 am
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I just started on my bed wood replacement project. The bed is sitting on jack stands and the wood is all removed. I've started this thread for questions I may have, beginning with:
All of the bed strips will be replaced with SS pieces, including the angle strips. I'll be bolting the angles to the bed sides, not welding. I've got many implements of destruction. What have you all used to grind out the welds on the original angles?
Any pointers and suggestions are welcome.
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If it’s the little spot welds
You can buy drill bits made for drilling out spot welds
I left the angles so I’m not much help there
I wanted a wood that holds up outdoors so We used cedar
And ran it thru a table saw to cut the grooves where the trim strips go
Oak looks nice when stained and cleared but the clear coat will come off if you park your truck outside(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/343be865f3b91a26a40107f561cd6b56.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/6b5763fb9d5d370fc3ba80661eb77f9b.jpg)
The new wood being put to good use
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I'm not much of a woodworker so I bought pre-cut white oak boards. I'm all about low maintenance so my plan is to treat it with used motor oil. The wood that was in there was what my dad put in about 25 years ago. He wasn't much of a woodworker either. It was pine, I believe. Knowing him, he treated it with linseed oil.
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I'm not much of a woodworker so I bought pre-cut white oak boards. I'm all about low maintenance so my plan is to treat it with used motor oil. The wood that was in there was what my dad put in about 25 years ago. He wasn't much of a woodworker either. It was pine, I believe. Knowing him, he treated it with linseed oil.
Most of ours is treated with deer blood , and motor oil and 90 weight that has leaked from engines, transmissions and axles that have been hauled in the bed
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So the spot weld drill bit was the hot ticket. Thanks to roundhouse for the tip.
I'm now prepping the bed sides (under the angle) and they're quite rusty. Solid, but very rusty. I'm thinking wire wheel and then Rustoleum. Maybe scuff them up to bare, shiny metal first? Would there be something better than Rustoleum?
Today I dabbed a little used oil on the white oak. It didn't really change the color at all. I may consider some dark stain, but maybe not.....
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Be careful with the wire wheel
Wear glasses AND a full face shield
Those wires WILL come off
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If I recall, I've read that you can mount the bed to the frame without using the 1/2 carriage bolts through the wood floor. You just bolt the cross sills directly to the frame.
Anyone have experience with that?
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About the rust: is it heavy flaking type? Or more surface?
I recently learned of a acid based formula that is a 'metal pre clean' that dissolves rust and other gunk.
Flitz Metal Pre Clean. Grangier has it along with others.
I cannot believe the elbow grease this could have saved me for YEARS!!!
I applied it to a really rusty bumper with green sludge. A few moments and some agitation with a brush and she was SHINY.
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The rust is pretty deeply pitted in places. Nothing has eaten through, thankfully. I have a 3M rust stripper disc that I've tested and it's done a great job. It can't get the rust down in the pits though. I'll look at the Flitz. Thanks.
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If I recall, I've read that you can mount the bed to the frame without using the 1/2 carriage bolts through the wood floor. You just bolt the cross sills directly to the frame.
Anyone have experience with that?
I put the carriage bolts under the wood
I hollowed out the wood a little bit with a Dremel and tack welded the carriage bolts to the sills
It makes it harder to remove the bed later since you have to raise it up before you can slide it back
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Next situation: The lip at the front of the bed on which the wood rests is not in great condition. It's there, pretty solid but the holes are deformed and/or broken. I have a piece of 20 gauge steel, 1 inch wide that I'd like to use to reinforce the lip. The plan is to cut it to the width of the bed and drill holes to match the lip. I don't want to weld anything.
Should I put the steel on top of the lip or underneath?
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On top will change the elevation higher. Probably not noticeably.
Under will just serve to support existing lip, which won't hurt to do.
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20 gauge is only 0.03, so it would probably not harm if it was on top, especially because I'm doing the angle strips on the bed sides as well. I have this thought in my mind that on top would provide better support over all. I dunno.....
The angle strips are another issue. As they'll be bolted on, I'm not sure how to determine their height. Just rest them on top of the wood and drill holes?
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You mean the side angle strips?
I've seen guys drill them out and reinstall, but don't know why that would be necessary.
I'll have my own trial by fire when replace mine, but it looks like take those slats out last and install them first.
Won't they slide in sideways? Maybe I need to look at my short bed again...
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The only instructions I've seen for replacing the angle strips says to mark their location with a pencil or something. Then reinstall the new ones at the same height. I marked the bedside with a pencil but most of the mark is gone since I've had to grind off lots of rust and scaly paint. It's not rocket science but 1- it's my first time and 2- the bedsides bow in 1/2-3/4 inch. That adds some complexity. My thought is to put the angles and outer boards in together. Sort of....
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Sorry, I had to re-read your post. Now I get it!
Ok, So the angles are pinned both horizontally and vertically.
So I agree with you, both should go in at the same time.
Once in place on both sides, you will need to do two things:
1, you will need to place C clamps vertically to hold the angle strips to the top of the new wood planks. The idea is to clamp the wood between the angle strips and the sills.
Just snug at first because of what comes next.
2, you will need to place wood or other material between the bed sides where they are bowing, to push them out square with the body.
Make for yourself two or more 'persuaders' out of wood or metal tubing, round or square, that are just 1/4 inch longer than the bedsides are wide.
With both sides wood and angles clamped in place, Place the 'persuaders' across the bed, on top of the angle strips. They won't fit because they are oversize.
Gently tap the persuaders to go as perpendicular to the bedsides as possible, until you work out the bows.
Check for square front to back, use hammer to move slightly till you get what you want or as close as possible.
Now clamp the entire assembly tight, mark your holes and drill baby drill!
Insert bolts and snug up till the final final lock down.
Ever hear of Tung oil? Works really well as a permanent sealer, and brings out the beauty of the wood. Not as cheap as motor oil, but...
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I put two coats of Minwax stain on the wood today. Early American tint. It's kinda darkish. I'll finish it off with used motor oil.
I follow what you're saying about the installation. It will be a few days before I get to that. After I do another coat or two of Rustoleum.
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I've used Minwax, great stuff even when you're revitalizing wood paneling.
Can you do us all a favor? pls post pics, they really help!
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These are a few before assembly shots.
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A few more for reference.
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Dude that is the same color as my K10! I like her already...
Shots look good! Thanks, it means a lot to us old guys when we see progress.
So the replacement wood slats are not separated at every Metal bed Strip? I think the stock wood slats were separate, but I would have to look.
Being that wide may pose a problem with the C clamp suggestion.
Minwax looks good, I wouldn't go with the used motor oil but to each his own.
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Us old guys, indeed. I drove that truck home from the dealer the day my Dad bought it. December 1979. I was 18 years old.
Stainless strips will separate the boards on assembly. Right now, I have two boards in each side with 1x1s wedged between to take the bow out of the bedsides. I've been measuring and planning on how and where to drill the holes. Biggest issue is that the angle strips are barely higher than the step on the outside of the front of the bed. It's going to be real close. I think there is only just enough room to squeeze a bolt and nut.
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Forgive me, I thought you were younger. 8)
Nice memory of buying the truck. Nicer that he let YOU drive!
I would have like to think that my K10 is the truck my dad would have bought me when I turned 18 that year, had he the means and desire. Of which he had neither, but oh well, I got her now...
So the slats are separate- their just so close it looks like they are one piece.
Yeah, sound tight. I'm sure you'll pull it off. Can't wait to see the finished project!
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I requested a 4x4 when he bought it. He flat out said no. He knew better.
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I got all the holes drilled in the angle strips and bedsides. Tonight I'll start trial fitting the wood, etc. I'm at the point now where I need to decide how to attach the bed. Hidden bolts or not.
I really don't like the looks of the big bed bolts so I'd rather hide them. I don't have a forstner bit nor a drill press, either. But it seems like hiding them under the wood makes installation more difficult. I suppose I'd have to weld the carriage bolts to the cross beams and then assemble the bed and then lower it on to the frame. Have to hope that the bolts would align with the frame holes.
Decisions, decisions.
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Did the replacement slats come with pre drilled holes? pry not huh?
I agree, they aren't pretty but they do look 'stock'. When I get around to doing mine, I think I'm going with stock. Not sure how I'm going to recess the areas for the washers...
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No pre drilled holes at all in the wood.
I had it all laid out tonight. It's a snug fit side to side. Edge boards are marked for holes. I'll get some carriage bolts tomorrow and see what it looks like.
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For what some of these guys charge for their bed material you think they could drill some holes...
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Some places will drill holes and even counter sink for hidden bolts. Mar K will do it. As usual, I went about it a weird way.
I'm now officially putting things back together. Leaning toward standard mount apparatus. I'd rather not vary from the factory design. It's just more simple.
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I welded carriage bolts to the cross brackets
And hollowed out the wood just enough to drop over the bolts
We did the wood replacement with the bed on the truck
Lemme see if in can find some pics(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200204/7f2f5e4504e32b3b55bcf8af287976c5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200204/cf737ee347c03086e1e613a452919dee.jpg)
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I'm about ready to drill the holes but I can't bring myself to. I really hate how those big, ugly bolts look. Guess the big downside is having to climb under the truck and bolt the two boards down.
Or I could weld the carriage bolts to the cross bars, assemble the bed and hope that they slip in the holes. That seems kinda sketchy.
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I've been putting this off. Scratching my head. I want to assemble the bed off the truck, with the bolts hidden under the wood. I'm really concerned that if I do this I'll have trouble aligning the bolts, welded to the cross bars, with the holes on the frame.
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Do you have the old slats? If yes you can used them as a template.
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Took some precise measurements. Hit it with a rotary rasp. And the finished product!
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NICE WORK!!! 8)
I can see the vision of my K10, finally being done, thanks for the encouragement!
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Outstanding! 8)
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There's been a huge transformation to the truck this winter. Prior, if I hit a bump it sounded like the truck was falling apart. The doors banged around and the bed was temporarily held down by just two bolts so it banged and banged and rattled.
I did the PEX fix to the door striker bolts and got the bed bolted down and put new brake drums on. My God it rides like a new truck.
Still need to tinker with the throttle return spring. I'm not happy with it. And then there's a persistent oil leak. But that's better than a couple years ago when every flipping fluid in the truck dripped on the floor like it was a sieve.
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The little things in the life of a Square Body... 8)