73-87chevytrucks.com

73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: ChevySepticGuy on July 03, 2006, 11:34:00 am

Title: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: ChevySepticGuy on July 03, 2006, 11:34:00 am
Hello guys,

would my 85' 4spd have a grease fitting on it somewhere?

The hard shifting can be awfully hard on the arm after a long drive!...urg . :x  

And my reverse gear always grinds no matter what!

Any way to make the shifting a little smoother?

Thanks!

"Chevy Septic Guy"
1985 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe C30 (1 ton)

Edited by: ChevySepticGuy at: 7/5/06 3:20 pm
Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: roundedline on July 05, 2006, 04:36:00 pm
manual 4 speeds don't have grease fittings.  By shifting hard are you talking about going into gear it takes to much effort or ???

If it is shifting hard, it is possible that the clutch could be going out.

Are you stoping completely before putting it in reverse?

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: thirstycanadian on July 05, 2006, 08:51:00 pm
I'm with roundedline that it could be your clutch.  I had the same problem with my '85 (if your problem is: clutch to the floor and you really have to lean into it to jam it in gear).  Check to see if your master or slave cylinder or line are leaking fluid.  Also, it might be air in the system, which can be bled like brakes.  The bleeder valve is on the top of the slave cylinder.

If you want to change the gear oil, there is a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the driver's side of the transmission (that's where mine are at least - 4 spd, granny, no overdrive). Everywhere I have seen says to use 80W-90 gear oil.  Someone in these forums, Vilezombie I think, once told me it takes 8.2 pints and that was just about what it took.

Good luck

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: 1980cdeluxe on July 05, 2006, 10:20:00 pm
I have the same problem with grinding before going into reverse in my '78 scottsdale granny 4 spd. I noticed if it doesn't go in easily the first try, going to neutral letting out the clutch and then going to first or second and back to reverse helps a lot.

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: Blazin on July 06, 2006, 01:06:00 am
All my manual trucks go into reverse alot eisier if I go into Lo or 1st before reverse. Also if you depress the clutch pedal twice other wise know as double clutching.

Edited by: Blazin at: 7/8/06 12:12 am
Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: thirstycanadian on July 07, 2006, 10:46:00 pm
I have been told that the grinding going into reverse is due to the fact that the reverse gear is not syncronized like the other gears are.  I guess that's why running through first before shifting to reverse eliminates the grind.

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: roundedline on July 08, 2006, 09:58:00 am
That is correct.  1st and reverse are not syncronized on the SM465.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: ChevySepticGuy on July 08, 2006, 07:12:00 pm
Thanks guys...yeah i'm talking about having to put a lot of effort in shifting.

I'll have to try switching into first and then over into reverse.

The clutch was put new in her last spring.


Thanks again.

"Chevy Septic Guy"
1985 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe C30 (1 ton) 350.

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: roundedline on July 10, 2006, 10:21:00 am
If you are having problems that just started, and it is happening in all the gears not just reverse and granny, my first thoughts are the clutch.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

Title: Re: 4 spd. Manual hard shifting
Post by: jnf087V10 on October 15, 2006, 01:08:00 am
Bleed that clutch out.  The lined going from the master cylinder to slave cylinder are pretty solid but that one rubber hose that goes from the master to to resevoir can get worn.  And then air can leak into the system.  Bleeding can be tricky on the clutch though.  I took the whole system out of the truck, because I thought the slave cylinder was shot.  What I ended up doing was setting the whole thing up on my workbench and bleeding it out from the slave cylinder not the master, and letting all the air travel out through the reservoir.  Once I got it all nice and tight I bolted the whole assembly back in my truck, worked like a charm.  It was also nice because I didnt need a second person there pumping the pedal.  Try it out that clutch will work like the day you bought it.  Chances are its an air problem, not something mechanically wrong with the clutch.