Post by: jmacintosh on November 28, 2006, 01:24:00 pm
350 SB
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Holley 650 Spread Bore Carb with square bore conversion plate.
Had to do some major finagling to get the detent cable linkage to work properly with the tranny - mission accomplished.
First I had no choke - turns out a plug was not installed on the electric choke from the factory as a possible cause. Second, I couldn't get the choke when i would work to kick down. Third, after I push the throttle down to a certain point the truck revs at 2000 - 2500 rpm. For a while, I could shut the truck off while in gear, and let it diesel until it finally shut down. I would then restart it, and the idle would comeback down. Unfortunately, that no longer seems to work as well as before.
Now, checking out the carb, I noticed the choke plate (butterfly) on top of the carb is loose. you can pull it right out from between the rods that go across the top of the carb. When I try to flip it back and forth, sometimes it moves smotthly, sometimes with a hitch in it.
Am i better off going with a new Edelbrock, and just say screw it...or what?
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: roundedline on November 28, 2006, 01:07:00 pm
Are you saying you can remove the choke plate (as its not bolted down), or that it just moves freely when opening? If it is the later, then nothing is wrong.
By default, when cold it should be close. When heated up, it should be open? Is it adjustable?
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: jmacintosh on November 28, 2006, 02:09:00 pm
apparently, the plate is not bolted down at all. I can pull it out from between the rods that go across the top of the carb.
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: jmacintosh on November 28, 2006, 02:38:00 pm
Electric Choke
CALIBRATED FOR FUEL ECONOMY
Designed for small-block and small displacement big-block engines, these carbs are recommended only for stock to Performer level applications. They are not recommended for use on RPM or Torker II intake manifolds. Match with an Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS manifold and other brands of similar design. Calibrated 2% leaner than #1405. Includes both timed and full vacuum ports for ignition advance. Comes with: Metering Jets – Primary .098, Secondary .095; Metering Rods – .075 x .047; Step-Up Spring – yellow (4" Hg). Use our Carb Stud Kits #8008 or #8024 if needed, see Installation Items. For auto trans throttle lever adapters and more, see Tuning Accessories.
600 cfm, square-flange, electric choke (non-EGR) #1406*
600 cfm, square-flange, electric choke (non-EGR) w/ EnduraShine finish #14064*
1986 Chevy K-10 Silverado 350 SB
1984 Chevy C-10 Custom Deluxe 350 SB
Post by: Pushrod on November 28, 2006, 04:21:00 pm
As for the high idle kick-down crap I remove the high idle screw and grind it down a bit so it is actually adjustable for decent rpms. Holley made them a bit long and you can't adjust the fast idle low enough to be drivin without stabbin the pedal all the time.
You have a good carb, just like any Holley though you gotta play with it to make it right for your application.
As for the Edelbrock/Carter carbs, I haven't gotta clue, I gotta intake beggin' for a couple though so I'm gonna hafta get one.
Post by: doctrdoo on November 29, 2006, 07:14:00 pm
Post by: 78ScottsdaleK20 on December 06, 2006, 07:11:00 pm
I took an Edelbrock #1406 (600 cfm electric choke) and isntalled it on a 350 w/ 9.5:1 compression. Speed pro cam (RV) w/ .448 lift. Stock .194 heads and Heddmen headers. Purple Hornies hooked directly to the headers. I installed an O2 sensor in each collector. This is a universal single wire sensor. You can hook up a volt meter to it and depending on what volt readings you get will determine what your fuel ratio is. You can then be able to fine tune the carb for best performance. I added a air/fuel ratio gauge and mounted it on the dash just left of the head light switch. This works well since you only have to cut a hole into the plastic part of the removable dash panel (7
. The O2 sensor is not functional to the point of constant adjustment while driving but you can definately fine tune the driveability of the carb. Total cost of the setup was $90. Alot cheaper than handing it to a mechanic and spending $70/hr. plus you learn to adjust the carb yourself further saving $ down the road. Hopefully this helps and let me know if you try it.
Mike