73-87chevytrucks.com

73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 75 C20 on March 03, 2007, 10:59:00 pm

Title: rear main seal
Post by: 75 C20 on March 03, 2007, 10:59:00 pm
i am going to go ahead and replace my rear main seal in my 75 c20 with a 350. i have the engine pulled out and figured i might as well do that too. how exactly do i go about doin this and should i go ahead and replace my oil pump or not- some places i read say do and others say dont.:lol  

Title: oil pump?
Post by: 77c15 on March 03, 2007, 11:28:00 pm
while you've got the oil pan off and the crank bolts loosened for removal of the seal, you might as well replace the oil pump and check all of you crank and rod bearings. the only time you should replace something that isn't broke is when it is incredibly accessable and to save yourself the heartache later down the road. Just make sure you get a new shaft with the oil pump....a lot of the aftermarket oil pumps don't come with it. hope this helps.

Title: Re: oil pump?
Post by: VileZambonie on March 04, 2007, 08:06:00 am
A few tips, since you have a two piece rear main, offsetting the seals so the opening don't line up with the bearing caps can eliminate dripping from that area. I teeny weenie dab of RTV near the corner of the rear bearing cap is ok too, just be careful doing this.

Make sure you use an oil pump driveshaft with a steel sleeve and get a new pick up tube. Make sure you install the pick up tube so it just touches the bottom of the pan. When you install the pan gasket you should have just enough clearance off of the bottom of the pan. If you weld the pickup to the pump use a cold weld like JB weld. Don't forget to prime the oil pump. Packing the inlet with vaseline will allow it to prime easier and it is petroleum base. Do not use grease.

Good luck

Title: Re: oil pump?
Post by: Lt.Del on March 04, 2007, 01:57:00 pm
Get a felpro one piece pan gasket...they are awesome.  If you have a four bolt main, torque the outer bolts 60 ft lbs, inner bolts 65 ft lbs.

Definately go with a new pump...being the heart of the engine, they are cheap.  Your labor will be done anyway since you have to remove your pump to replace rear main. Dont forget the gasket for the pump.





















SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Edited by: SgtDel  at: 3/4/07 2:04 pm
Title: Re: oil pump?
Post by: VileZambonie on March 04, 2007, 08:29:00 pm
Quote:
Dont forget the gasket for the pump.


? there is no gasket used for the pump.

Title: Re: oil pump?
Post by: Lt.Del on March 04, 2007, 08:43:00 pm
I could've sworn mine came with one, but it has been a couple of years now.  

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Title: Re: rear main seal
Post by: jason on July 19, 2013, 12:22:26 am
Did you complete this job without raising your engine?
The service manual says that raising the engine 2-3 inches is necessary to remove the pan.

I'm looking at replacing my pan gasket as well as some other gaskets > timing chain cover, intake manifold, etc.

Thanks,
Jason
Title: Re: rear main seal
Post by: Fairlane514 on July 19, 2013, 12:38:04 am
You can get a copper gasket for the oil pump.
Title: Re: rear main seal
Post by: Irish_Alley on July 19, 2013, 01:21:30 am
on mine i didnt have to raise the engine. think all are like that but cant say for sure