73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: Chanman09 on November 05, 2024, 01:12:17 pm
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I have a 1986 C20 Silverado. I have pulled the bed off and am getting the frame cleaned up a little more, taking care of some wiring issues, and will put a new fuel selector valve to replace the original one that does not work.
I started looking online at the usual places, auto parts stores, ebay, etc.
There looks to be 2 choices for the 6 port selector valve.
There is a 'universal' valve for around 50-80 dollars, and there is a AC/delco for 120-200 dollars.
They look the same online, they seem to have the same electrical female input.
I don't want to rewire anything. I want to plug it in and go.
what is y'alls experience? Any advice to follow?
Thank you all!
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=37007.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23517.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9072.0
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=37007.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=23517.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9072.0
Thank you, Vile.
I searched using the searchbar and did not see these. Maybe I mispelled or something.
Based on reading your links, I should just see if changing the switch fixes my issue.
Would you recommend the same if the truck had sat for many years in the woods? Or go ahead and replace the valve as well?
Here's my new gameplan. My driver side tank is new. The passenger side not new, but It's been empty so no bad fuel. I will try to borrow a scope or buy one to look inside and see what it looks like in the passenger gas tank.
I will disconnect fuel line into the carb and blow back air. I should get bubbles/sound in the driver side currently. Then, I'll switch and see if the air goes to the other side. That should test my valve out.
I'm thinking out loud here, so if anybody has a better way, please let me know.
I love this forum.
Thanks
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I searched using the searchbar and did not see these. Maybe I mispelled or something.
If you go to google.com and type: fuel selector site:73-87chevytrucks.com, or whatever topic you want + site:73-87chevytrucks.com it will search just the site faster.
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This is the company that originally made the selector valves for GM:
https://www.pollakaftermarket.com/en/products/fuel-selector-valves/fuel-tank-selector-valves/3-port-and-6-port-fuel-valves
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Alright guys, Saturday I got under the truck and removed my 6 port selector valve.
I went down to the local parts store and got the part they had. Not a Pollack but a Standard FV5.
I immediately noticed my smaller nipple/port was smaller than the new part in store. I bought some more fuel line to go along with the valve and came home.
I crawled back under the car and I was cussing the new part before k eventually gave up when it started raining.
The old valve and hosing has 3/8 hose (supply?) and 1/4 inch (return) hose.
The new valve has 3/8 port and a 5/16 port.
5/16 won’t fit on the 1/4 steel lines under the truck.
So do I try for the pollack part? Or try to heat/stretch some hosing and smash the 1/4 inch hose in a 5/16 nipple and hope I don’t explode one day?
Advice???
Thanks
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5/16" to 1/4" hose barbs can be used if necessary.
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5/16" to 1/4" hose barbs can be used if necessary.
I thought about that as well. I'll probably do this. I was trying to avoid having to do it again later on, but I figure if the original hoses down there were still good, the new fittings and such will last long enough.
Thanks!