73-87chevytrucks.com

73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: Rough75C20 on March 11, 2025, 05:59:31 pm

Title: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on March 11, 2025, 05:59:31 pm
Hello All,

Looking to upgrade my C20 Fuel system. I currently have a 14-gallon tank on the passenger side that is being used as the main tank. However, the sending unit isn't hooked up to the gauge so I'm guessing on gas level right now. I am looking at getting a new 20-gallon tank from Jegs. Question is about the fuel sending unit. the truck currently has a 305 with a 4-barrel Quadrajet. I'm looking at the fuel sending units and I believe I need the one with two outlets (supply and vent). I haven't seen a return line to the current tank. Is this normal for these old carb setups? I have attached what is currently in my shopping cart from Jegs. Let me know your thoughts. I'm planning on using a T with a ball valve to control which tank is being used, but the sending unit will be hooked up to the main tank.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Captkaos on March 13, 2025, 10:51:40 am
73-87's only came with 16 or 20 gallon tanks, not 14.
Are you talking about adding an additional 20 gallon tank or replacing the existing 16 gallon tank?  Why not just fix the sending unit in the tank?
For the T/ball valve how are you going to do the Vent line?  I am unsure what the question is on the supply/send?  Can you elaborate?
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on March 13, 2025, 04:23:27 pm
Hello,

Thanks for the reply. I believe the original tanks were pulled and whatever the previous owner had was put in on the passenger side, could be 16 gal. It is currently on the passenger side with the cap sticking out of the side of the bed. I would like to have a tank that actually uses the fuel door on the driver's side and my thinking was, I might as well get the 20-gallon tank since I have a long bed. So, I would bw adding an additional tank. Honestly, I'm not even sure where the vent line "vents" to. does this go to somewhere else on the engine? can it just be open or plugged off? Can the line be spliced into the vent line of the other tank? The question on the supply / send is there are two different sending units on Jegs for my year of truck. there is a 3 port and a 2-port sending unit. one has a return port as the third port, and the other one doesn't. I'm not sure how you know which one you need. I don't know if my truck needs a return line to the tank or if only needs a supply to the carb.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: JohnnyPopper on March 18, 2025, 06:59:27 am
Do a search here or elsewhere for fuel and vent line diagrams. You want to get this right or other gremlins will come to the party... :( :(
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Captkaos on March 18, 2025, 11:38:23 am
Generally speaking it vents to atmosphere, OR a charcoal Cannister/engine.  I would find out what you have on the opposite tank and make it match, being a C20 it is possible it only used the 2 port but I would check.
You don't want to vent one tank back into another tank.  Some of these also had vented caps, but no idea on the year.  You dont want to cap it off as the tank will pressurize.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: VileZambonie on March 19, 2025, 06:45:08 pm
Your truck didn't come with a 305 so obviously someone swapped things around. Is the fuel pump one line in and one to the carburetor only?
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on March 26, 2025, 09:57:33 am
Hello all, thanks for the replies. I confirmed that the fuel pump is only one line in and one line to the carb. The only other line coming out of the top of the tank that I can see is just hanging under the truck near the fuel tank. I believe this is the vent line. So the current setup is only a two port sending unit from what I can tell.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on April 25, 2025, 11:48:36 am
Can someone please post a picture of the fuel sending unit wiring at the front of the fuse box on the engine side? I'm trying to figure out which tan wire needs the sending unit wire connected to it but a lot of the wires on my truck at the fuse box have just been cut off. want to make sure I'm hooking it up to the correct wire. If someone could post a picture of the wire coming out of the fuse box that would be awesome. there is one on the left side bottom corner when looking at it from the front of the truck that looks promising but want to be sure.

Thank you!

Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Captkaos on April 25, 2025, 01:15:53 pm
Most all of the wiring schematics are here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30115.0
And depending on the year truck it may or may not be in the same place especially if it has been tampered with.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: ehjorten on April 25, 2025, 04:31:45 pm
Curious...you mentioned getting the tank setup so it goes through the fuel door, but if your truck is a 1975 C20 like your tag, then you shouldn't have a fuel door, it should just be a fuel fill cap on the side of the bed. That is unless someone prior to you, swapped beds for a 1979+. I believe that 1979 was the first year for the fuel door.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on April 25, 2025, 04:49:34 pm
Thanks guys. I’m sure the bed was swapped at some point with something else. This truck seems to be cobbled together. It does have an older style tailgate with the “CHEVROLET” in the center.

To confirm if the wire is correct what is the best method? Check continuity between the plug of the back of the dash and the wires coming out of the fuse box? Does the accessory power need to be on to check this?
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: bd on April 25, 2025, 06:42:09 pm
75 C/K chassis single tank fuel gauge wiring (circuit 30, tan wire) used the firewall bulkhead connector cavity outlined in red below.

Dual tank wiring is more complicated.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: VileZambonie on April 26, 2025, 10:15:35 am
What dos the dual tank switch on the dash look like? Post a picture of your setup and gauge cluster.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on April 26, 2025, 10:34:20 am
There is no dual tank switch. I have a manual valve to control which tank I’m pulling from. Only want the driver tank to be hooked up to the gauge and use the passenger tank as a backup.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on April 26, 2025, 03:53:34 pm
#30 happened to be the wire that was cut off that I was suspecting. Also found the original thermostat wire with the schematic. Thanks!
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: VileZambonie on April 27, 2025, 06:28:23 am
If there is no hole in the dash then it wasn't equipped with dual tanks so you would use the single tank wiring diagram.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on May 05, 2025, 07:38:14 am
So, hooked up the wire to the #30 tan and tried the truck out. Fuel gauge still reading F with an empty tank. Made sure the ground at the tank is clean, and the ground of the dash cluster is clean right above the emergency brake release. am I missing something? bad resistor in the gauge? printed circuit is new but haven't tried checking power to the gauge. no blown fuses that I can see.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: bd on May 05, 2025, 10:00:18 am
Check the GAUGES fuse.  Ground the tan wire.  Switch the ignition ON.  The fuel gauge needle should drop to Empty.  Disconnect the tan wire.  With ignition still switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing past full to the ~3:00 o'clock position.  If the gauge needle doesn't move, the gauge is either dead or the wiring is hacked, and you'll need to start tracing to locate and verify I+, ground, and signal connections to the gauge.

For reference, see "Functional Tests of Factory GM Electric Gauges (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=25339.msg211241#msg211241)."

Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on May 08, 2025, 06:11:12 am
So troubleshooting the wiring shows that the contacts on the printed circuit aren't touching on the back side of the gauge cluster. when pulling the gauge out slightly the Fuel gauge drops to past E. I would say between the 9 and 10 o'clock position. Is that normal for an empty reading? I went to go fill up the tank to test, but I have the filler neck upside down on the driver's side which wasn't allowing fuel to go in. also have a building pressure issue in the new tank I need to figure out. Shouldn't the vent in the top of the sending unit vent the tank from doing this? Maybe the line is pinched somewhere when installing the tank. I also thought i purchased a vented cap. It's the gates one from amazon that looks like the original tank cap. My plan was to open the tank cap and blow air through the vent to see if its plugged.
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: bd on May 08, 2025, 09:24:36 am
With the signal wire grounded, the fuel gauge should indicate Empty.  With the signal wire disconnected, the fuel gauge should indicate well past Full with the needle pointing ~3:00 o'clock.  Correct the connection issues between the gauge pins and PCB.  The clips (image) may need to be gently retensioned using needle-nose pliers.  Don't overbend them or you'll introduce gauge fitment problems! 

(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=37117.0;attach=51117;image)

Excerpt from the Application Notes in "Functional Tests of Factory GM Electric Gauges" previously linked:

"The instrument cluster gauges (excluding speedometers, clocks and tachometers) establish electrical connection with the flexible printed circuit board (PCB) through shiny metal spring clips (Fig. 8) that snap through the back of the instrument cluster housing.  The PCB and clips are notorious for accumulating dust and tarnish to the point of degrading electrical connections, while the spring clips tend to lose tension over time, degrading connections even further.  Hence, anytime the cluster is disassembled for gauge service or new gauges are installed, the clips should be burnished along with the PCB where the clips make contact.  But, be careful - the copper foil of the PCB can peel easily from its plastic backing.  A soft pencil eraser or crocus cloth works well for burnishing the copper foil.  Once the spring clips have been removed from the housing, they can be gently reformed to increase contact pressure with both the PCB and gauge pins.  Furthermore, inspect and burnish the connections between the wiring harness plug and PCB."
Title: Re: new 20 gallon tank
Post by: Rough75C20 on May 08, 2025, 11:55:19 am
Perfect. Thank you for the info BD!