Post by: roundedline on March 31, 2007, 03:15:00 pm
90 350 TBI burb. Wouldn't stay running and dies when stopping. It was throwing codes and I replaced the IAC and EGR, both bad. Codes are gone.
Still dies in gear and will eventually die in idle. Pulled the Booster line off and the dying in park became sparadic. Replaced the booster.
Now it idles around 675rpm and dies when it goes into gear. Scanning it with WinALDL and the sensor data and raw data look ok to me. (it does have and exhaust leak)
Pull the IAC connector and it runs fine and doesn't stall or die in gear. IAC is good, removed from R10 to test it.
TPS data looks good also.
Anyone care to throw out something obvious that I am now overlooking since I been working on it too long?
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: Lt.Del on March 31, 2007, 07:39:00 pm
If you unplug the IAC, the engine does fine. Try turning on the AC or turning the steering all the way one way or the other, turn headlights on, perhaps all of these while idling and see if RPM’s go down. It should if IAC is not hooked up. With IAC hooked up, the rpms will remain constant, in theory.
If you know the IAC valve is fine, something is telling the ECM to bring the IAC to a lower setting, therefore the engine stalls.
Why would the ECM be trying to set the IAC too low?? Is there an RPM sensor or other means that is giving the ECM false info?? (does ECM read the coil or distributor to get rpms?) Or you have a load at idle (AC on, power steering pump under pressure etc) and the ECM is not setting the IAC to a higher number. ECM may be at fault. On my wife's cherokee, the crankshaft position sensor failed and caused the engine to shut off--starving of gas due to the ecm telling the gas to shut off and killing the ignition.
IAC setting is displayed thru serial data. You can play with the engine load at idle (AC, alt) and see if IAC setting changes.
I have heard of too high rpms. Cruse Control parts can fail and lodge in the throttle cable, dirty throttle body etc..
A way you can check the crankshaft position sensor is when it shuts off again, keep key on (don't turn key to off position). Turn the key to start the ignition again. If it doesnt fire, or show spark, the sensor tells the ecm to keep the ignition off. If after turning the key all the way off and waiting about 15 seconds and trying to start the engine again--basically resetting the cps, and it starts, well the cps may be bad. But this doesnt answer the fact that when the IAC is unplugged, engine runs fine.
You mentioned you have an exhaust leak...is that before the O2 sensor? If so, that would be allowing fresh O2 into the reading of the sensor. That in turn would create a richer mixture because the O2 sensor thinks more gas is required to burn the hydrocarbons.
SgtDel
aka "Andy"
www.delbridge.net
1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4
Post by: VileZambonie on March 31, 2007, 10:50:00 pm
Post by: roundedline on April 01, 2007, 01:25:00 pm
TPS is showing .57V at idle and the IAC count is averaging about 68 (ranging 63-70) which means leak to me. Base gasket looked fine.
It eventually dies in Park after if fight to keep it running and looses. I have checked what I believe is everything for a vacuum leak, I must just be overlooking something.... Just looking for fresh ideas.
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: DnStClr on April 01, 2007, 09:29:00 pm
Don St.Clair
Culleoka Tn
Post by: VileZambonie on April 01, 2007, 09:48:00 pm
Post by: roundedline on April 01, 2007, 10:29:00 pm
I passed this by my buddy at dinner tonight and he said it could be the intake gasket, I will check the oil cap tomorrow.
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: Blazin on April 02, 2007, 06:46:00 am
Post by: VileZambonie on April 02, 2007, 06:01:00 pm
Post by: roundedline on April 02, 2007, 08:45:00 pm
SENSOR:IAC
64
64
64
64
59
51
46
43
42
41
38
36
34
32
31
31
29
28
28
28
28
26
26
25
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
26
26
26
26
25
25
25
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
25
25
25
25
25
24
23
23
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: VileZambonie on April 02, 2007, 09:41:00 pm
Post by: roundedline on April 02, 2007, 10:49:00 pm
Time IAC Temp MAP
0.4 64 150.2 29.9
1.6 64 150.2 32.5
2.8 64 150.2 31.4
4 64 150.2 31.8
5.1 59 150.2 31
6.3 51 150.2 31.8
7.5 46 150.2 32.5
8.7 43 149.4 33.2
9.9 42 149.4 32.5
11.1 41 149.4 32.5
12.3 38 149.4 34.3
13.5 36 149.4 33.2
14.6 34 149.4 35.1
15.8 32 149.4 32.9
17 31 149.4 34
18.2 31 149.4 34.7
19.4 29 149.4 34
20.6 28 149.4 35.4
21.8 28 148.7 34
23 28 148.7 35.1
24.1 28 148.7 32.1
25.3 26 148.7 36.6
26.6 26 148.7 34.3
27.7 25 148.7 35.1
28.9 24 148.7 34
30.1 24 148.7 35.1
31.3 24 148.7 34
32.5 24 148.7 34.7
33.6 24 148.7 33.2
34.9 24 148.7 34.7
36.1 24 148.7 34.3
37.2 26 148.7 35.8
38.4 26 148.7 33.6
39.6 26 148.7 35.1
40.8 26 148.7 33.6
42 25 148.7 34.7
43.2 25 148.7 35.1
44.4 25 148.7 34.7
45.6 24 148.7 34.3
46.7 24 148.7 34.7
47.9 24 148.7 34.3
49.1 24 148.7 34.3
50.3 24 148.7 35.1
51.5 24 148.7 33.6
52.7 24 147.9 34.3
53.9 24 147.9 33.6
55.1 25 148.7 35.1
56.2 25 147.9 33.2
57.4 25 147.9 34.3
58.6 25 147.9 35.1
59.8 25 147.9 33.2
61 24 147.9 33.2
62.2 23 147.9 33.2
62.9 23 147.9 33.2
RPM TPS O2
850 0.7 0.495
825 0.7 0.495
875 0.7 0.495
850 0.7 0.495
800 0.7 0.495
775 0.7 0.491
725 0.7 0.491
700 0.7 0.473
700 0.7 0.477
700 0.7 0.473
675 0.7 0.469
675 0.7 0.486
625 0.7 0.46
650 0.7 0.486
650 0.7 0.469
625 0.7 0.469
625 0.7 0.486
600 0.7 0.455
625 0.7 0.477
600 0.7 0.464
675 0.7 0.486
575 0.7 0.473
650 0.7 0.473
625 0.7 0.469
625 0.7 0.477
575 0.7 0.464
625 0.7 0.486
600 0.7 0.473
625 0.7 0.482
600 0.7 0.477
600 0.7 0.486
575 0.7 0.473
625 0.7 0.482
600 0.7 0.477
625 0.7 0.486
575 0.7 0.495
575 0.7 0.491
600 0.7 0.495
600 0.7 0.495
575 0.7 0.491
600 0.7 0.486
600 0.7 0.495
550 0.7 0.486
575 0.7 0.495
600 0.7 0.491
625 0.7 0.499
625 0.7 0.504
600 0.7 0.508
625 0.7 0.508
550 0.7 0.504
600 0.7 0.508
625 0.7 0.513
600 0.7 0.504
600 0.7 0.504
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: roundedline on April 02, 2007, 10:58:00 pm
IAC is at 23 when it is slowly dying. (no load applied).
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: VileZambonie on April 03, 2007, 05:16:00 am
Reset the IAC - Key off for 10 sec start the engine for 5 sec, key off for 10 sec again. Then unplug the IAC and start the engine. - Has anyone messed with the idle stop screw? Set the TPS to .55V If it's still stalling pull off the TBI - it probably sucked in the gasket between the IAC passage and primary's.
Post by: roundedline on April 06, 2007, 06:31:00 pm
Today:
Fuel pressure before the filter is a consistent 13lbs. Set the TPS to .55V instead of .57. and did a reset on IAC. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet, but temperature has changed now from 70's on the second to 40's today. I am trying to get it up to operating temps and see if it will die once warmed up. Plan to stop is and start it back up...
Right now it is running fine as I type this.
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: roundedline on April 06, 2007, 06:44:00 pm
It dies going into gear.
I plan to retighten the intake bolts and pull the TBI gasket to see what is up.
BTW, MAP is at 1.1V when it dies going into gear, if it matters.
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: roundedline on April 07, 2007, 07:54:00 pm
then I check the port and it was completely stopped up.
So, I cleaned the whole lower portion of the unit checked all the ports and put it back on. So far so good, I drove it for 15 minutes without dying. Now I plan to drive it regularly and see what else will show up.
I am hoping to get it running dependably to make it to the All Chevy/GMC Nats in Maggie Valley, NC.
p210.ezboard.com/f7387che...D=40.topic
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
Post by: Lt.Del on April 07, 2007, 11:00:00 pm
That Maggie Valley show is the same weekend as the Richmond Nextel Race....gonna work pit road again--look for me on TV. I made it on TV during the Nat'l Anthem lined up w/ the teams on pit road before the race last September.
I went through the Maggie Valley a few years back while on a trip through the Great Smoky Mountains---beautiful place. Even saw a bear down there.
www.delbridge.net/smoky.html
SgtDel
aka "Andy"
www.delbridge.net
1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4
Post by: VileZambonie on April 08, 2007, 10:13:00 am
Post by: Captkaos on April 21, 2007, 07:27:15 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on April 21, 2007, 10:54:02 pm
Post by: 1tondump on May 03, 2007, 10:33:29 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 03, 2007, 12:19:17 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 21, 2007, 03:20:46 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on May 21, 2007, 04:05:16 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 23, 2007, 12:47:24 pm
Conditions as of today.
No codes
New IAC, EGR, TPS and basically the whole bottom of the TBI rebuilt
No vacuum leaks
TPS = .55V
IAC count = 25ish
MAP = 30's
Fuel pressure is 13lbs steady.
Base timing set
Clamping the return does nothing.
Once you crank it and it runs for say 3 minutes, drop it in gear (any gear) and it dies.
Post by: VileZambonie on May 23, 2007, 02:20:16 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 23, 2007, 03:57:44 pm
Previously if I unhooked the IAC it will stay running, but that was a few posts back. Haven't tried that recently. Will check the rest tonight.
Post by: Captkaos on May 23, 2007, 09:50:37 pm
BLM is 134.
Not sure how Fuel Integrator is referenced on what I have... I have attached screenshots of WinALDL..
Post by: VileZambonie on May 24, 2007, 05:18:31 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 24, 2007, 07:59:17 am
Spray pattern is the one first thing I checked when it was throwing codes and had to replace some sensors and it was good, but that was a while back, I will check it again...
This thing has be baffled!
Post by: VileZambonie on May 24, 2007, 10:17:32 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 24, 2007, 11:54:21 am
Another day, you let it run and it ran for about 3 minutes and then fizzled off.
Yesterday when I scanned it again, it ran fine for about 10 minutes, put it in drive and it died, (everytime) after about 3 tries going into gear it started died once in park.
If I catch it, it will stay running. If I drive it and slow down and give it some gas, it will stay running. If I drive normal (to me) I consistently have to pat the gas to keep it running, if I drive it slow it can catch it everytime.
I KNOW it is going to be something I am not thinking of...
Last time I checked the fuel pressure it sat steady at 13 while it was running. It is hooked before the filter, so I need assistance in checking the pressure going into gear (and with a baby that isn't easy) because the line isn't long enough on the gauge to reach inside the truck. I will see if I can con a friend one day this week. I would assume if I have good pressure when running in park Drive wouldn't upset it, but....
I do know the fuel sender is bad, so I may pull it and replace the pump anyway. The only think I can think of that would cause this is a bad regulator or pump....
Post by: VileZambonie on May 24, 2007, 06:45:39 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 24, 2007, 07:59:01 pm
I have hear the fuel pump relay under the hood when I switch power...
Injectors aren't crossed.
Post by: VileZambonie on May 24, 2007, 08:42:33 pm
Quote
I have hear the fuel pump relay under the hood when I switch power...??? say that again? lol Ok so you can rule out O2 since it happens in open loop. unplug your ECT and see if it does it. If it still does it unplug your TPS and see if it does it. What you are trying to determine here again is if it's a sensor input malfunction. Also have you checked your grounds and connections at the ECM?
Post by: Captkaos on May 24, 2007, 08:54:31 pm
I know if I pulled the IAC in the past it stayed running, but has a high idle....
Post by: Captkaos on May 24, 2007, 09:16:53 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on May 25, 2007, 05:13:51 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 25, 2007, 08:15:02 am
Post by: VileZambonie on May 25, 2007, 01:01:56 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 25, 2007, 05:07:58 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 25, 2007, 06:00:41 pm
Post by: DnStClr on May 26, 2007, 01:02:47 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 26, 2007, 10:11:57 am
I cleared the codes and plan to check the TPS and O2....
I did replace the battery to fix my motorcycle and put in a new window switch on my wifes car so I don't feel Too bad....
Post by: VileZambonie on May 26, 2007, 11:31:26 am
If it's detecting a lean condition from the o2 it's probably a result of the way it's running since you've indicated it does this when it's cold in open loop. I would say if the TPS ckt checks out ok then you have a lean condition and your fuel pressure may be dropping. If fuel pressure isn't dropping I would recheck your TBI and gasket. If that's ok then try another ECM.
Post by: Captkaos on May 26, 2007, 05:21:41 pm
Jumping B to C with sensor unplugged yeilded a code 21 while running. Jumping A to C yeilds 5V. Continuity to the TPS to through the harness is good.
I need assistance to check the Fuel pressure, but I think I can elminiate the TPS. So it is either the ECM or the Fuel Pressure.. Yippie.... I am thinking it is the ECM....
Post by: Captkaos on May 26, 2007, 06:16:01 pm
I guess I will get an ECM....
Post by: Toolmaster on May 26, 2007, 06:45:09 pm
Post by: DnStClr on May 26, 2007, 07:31:36 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 27, 2007, 12:27:25 am
Post by: VileZambonie on May 27, 2007, 08:25:26 am
Do you mean 5.01V?
Ok here's what you should do next. You said you replaced the IAC valve correct? I would test the IAC circuit - you can buy an IAC tester dirt cheap or make one really easy. The other option is to test the continuity of the IAC circuit back to the ECM. If it checks out ok I would pull your TBI back off. Check and clean the IAC passages - blow them out with compresed air and try another IAC valve - there are 2 different TBI base gaskets also make sure you use the right one.
Post by: VileZambonie on May 27, 2007, 08:27:43 am
Post by: Captkaos on May 27, 2007, 12:45:45 pm
As of midnight last night, this is what I know.
IAC = good. I am tested it on my DD and drove it for weeks
MAP = good. Same thing tested on the DD.
EGR = good. Tested on DD. Plus replaced it originally because of codes, codes gone.
TPS = good. Circuit tested, range tested, all good.
ECM = good. Switching yeilded the same symptoms.
removing EGR from equation, changes nothing. If you pull it up while running the truck dies.
removing oil cap, changes nothing.
Fuel pressure is steady at all times at 12lbs
The whole lower portion of the TBI has been throuroughly cleaned out. Short of upper gaskets, injectors and regulator, it is basically rebuilt.
TBI base gasket is good.
The ONLY thing that keeps if from dying is disconnecting the IAC from the system as mentioned in post #1, 27 and 36...
So how do I make a cheap IAC Tester?
I will recheck everything again and if it is different, I will post back the results.
Post by: DnStClr on May 27, 2007, 05:16:59 pm
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint4_1.pdf
Post by: Captkaos on May 27, 2007, 06:44:24 pm
Continuity on the IAC wires are good through the harness.
Opening oil cap does nothing, EGR is tight, disconnecting = nothing.
Post by: VileZambonie on May 27, 2007, 09:04:19 pm
Do you have another TBI you can throw on there?
Post by: Captkaos on May 27, 2007, 11:27:22 pm
I have one that needs complete rebuilding, and the one on my DD.
Post by: VileZambonie on May 28, 2007, 08:42:24 am
When you checked your fuel pressure did you T in and remove the fuel filter? You should eliminate the filter and make sure there is no change.
Post by: Captkaos on May 28, 2007, 09:27:39 am
The fuel pressure gauge is mounted before the filter, with the filter left intact. The filter is less than 3 weeks old as the last time I checked the pressure I replaced the filter.
You still didn't indicate how to make a simple IAC checker...
Post by: VileZambonie on May 28, 2007, 06:31:42 pm
Post by: Captkaos on May 30, 2007, 04:24:55 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on May 30, 2007, 07:00:00 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on May 31, 2007, 07:52:38 am
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/Sabaka454/iactester.jpg)
Post by: Captkaos on May 31, 2007, 01:00:53 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 02, 2007, 03:50:21 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on June 02, 2007, 04:53:54 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 02, 2007, 06:05:43 pm
I am not replacing the injectors, I am rebuilding the TBI. The Burb has 380K miles on it....
Post by: Captkaos on June 04, 2007, 06:25:34 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on June 04, 2007, 09:19:44 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 04, 2007, 11:57:25 pm
I have went to 2 Autozones, 2 O'Riellys, 2 Advanced Auto Parts, 2 NAPAs and 2 dealerships. None have located a PN or any reference to a way to get the spring. O'Riellys will sell me a reman TBI for $280 + core, but all I need is the stupid spring.
GM can get me the injector "pod" assembly with the regulator, but it is over $200.
I am probably either going to get a reman (don't want to) or hit the salvage yards unless I can come up with a PN for the spring so I can get this running again. I KNOW someone has it how else can they rebuild them....
Post by: VileZambonie on June 05, 2007, 05:17:04 am
for a 1989 Chevrolet Truck V1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD
About this product:
Part Number: 800-243
Weight: 0.07 lbs.
Warranty: 1 YR
Note: Repair kit
Post by: VileZambonie on June 05, 2007, 05:20:10 am
The pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with system operating pressure on one side and and atmospheric pressure on the other side. The function of the regulator is to maintain a constant pressure to the injectors at all times, by controlling the flow in the return line by means of a calibrated bypass.
NOTE: The pressure regulator on this unit is serviced as part of the fuel meter cover and should not be disassembled.
Fuel Pressure Regulator 17112399
Post by: Captkaos on June 05, 2007, 09:09:38 am
Gp-Sorensen / Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
for a 1989 Chevrolet Truck V1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD
About this product:
Part Number: 800-243
Weight: 0.07 lbs.
Warranty: 1 YR
Note: Repair kit
NEGATIVE, that doesn't come with the spring, it is only the diaphram. GM does list it at the cover, and it is around $200 and it does have the regulator and spring and diaphram with it. Question I am debating over is, do I buy a reman for $280 or a cover for $200 to get a $5 spring....
Post by: Captkaos on June 05, 2007, 05:18:27 pm
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?products_id=39
I guess I will be modding the regulator to be adjustable now :D
Post by: VileZambonie on June 05, 2007, 08:42:42 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 05, 2007, 09:08:31 pm
Hopefully Thursday the spring will be there and I can put the back together.
Post by: Captkaos on June 08, 2007, 04:15:17 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 09, 2007, 04:28:21 pm
I rebuilt it all yesterday and put it on and one of the injectors was sparaticly not firing. It did run better and didn't die going into gear, but after I drove it and came to a stop in D it started struggling to stay running, this is when I went back and discovered the sparatic misfire of the injector.
Today I put all new injectors on it and it won't stay running at all. It runs for about 1 minute and dies. I am about to put a scanner on it now....
Post by: VileZambonie on June 09, 2007, 04:42:05 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 09, 2007, 05:30:08 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 09, 2007, 06:34:38 pm
Post by: Toolmaster on June 09, 2007, 07:47:52 pm
You have been working on this for quite a while, Have you went back and started from scratch ? After all the swaping see if any thing has changed in the testing.
(Taken from other post)
IAC counts at idle,
TBI base gasket?
Is your TPS set at .55V ?
, pop the oil cap off and see if the engine speed changes and your IAC counts change,
check your fuel pressure,
IAC sensor data,
Reset the IAC,
Set the TPS to .55V,
Wow ! That was just from the first page.
What was it they used to KILL THE GRIMLIN'S ?? ???
Post by: VileZambonie on June 10, 2007, 09:24:16 am
Check the resistance of the distributor pick up coil. Typically around 800 ohms. Check it cold and check it hot.
Pull the cap off and check the carbon button.
Check the ignition coil - poor some water on it while it's running and see what happens.
Post by: Captkaos on June 10, 2007, 10:30:38 am
Post by: DnStClr on June 10, 2007, 02:34:48 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 10, 2007, 11:03:21 pm
When I pulled the cap/rotor, the insides of the distributor was rusty. I am thinking I will replace it next. I took a video of it from when I cranked it to when it just dies...
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/temp/TBI_Burb.ASF (use Media Player)
Try resetting the iac again?
Tried that....
Post by: Captkaos on June 12, 2007, 02:33:34 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on June 12, 2007, 03:30:06 pm
Post by: dumbucket1 on June 12, 2007, 03:31:38 pm
Post by: VileZambonie on June 12, 2007, 03:32:29 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 12, 2007, 03:44:45 pm
Just rebuild yours it's wicked easy. Get a new pickup coil and module. Drive the pin out of the drive gear. If you look at the drive gear it has a dot on one side. That dot faces the same direction as the rotor on the pole piece. Take out the pole piece and replace the pick up coil. I usually wire wheel the pole piece and lube it with some engine oil but not too much.
yeah, I know, but I really don't want to, it is an option if I get into the mood to work on it again, figured this would be a good time to upgrade. I may do that this weekend if I don't break down and get a new one...
have you tried to replace the ignition module with a known good one? I've had similar symptoms with vehicles I'v had in the past that a new ignition module cured.
My only knowm good one is in my DD, and I am definitely not pulling it apart. With a new distributor, I would eliminate all issues with the distributor in one swing.
also I can't remember but did you say you checked the fuel pump relay?Yep, checked it. It is getting plenty of fuel. It does now have a nice occasional miss to it now.
Post by: VileZambonie on June 12, 2007, 08:29:34 pm
Post by: Toolmaster on June 16, 2007, 08:52:29 pm
Could it BE !!!! He has killed the gremlins !
Post by: Captkaos on June 16, 2007, 09:22:10 pm
I just drove it all over my neighborhood and stopped at every stop sign. Stayed running the whole time. I am getting a code 44, but I have an idea where that is coming from.
After swapping the cap rotor and coil, the Burb developed a miss. I had time today to look at it and pulled the distributor to rebuild it. Afer getting it out the magnetic pickup was falling apart. No one had that piece so I got a new distributor. After getting it in, it is running good again. Yippie.
In retrospect, I suspect that there was a barage of problems with this. Short of replacing the MAP sensor, temp sensor and TPS, everything is new.
Pics to follow.
Post by: DnStClr on June 17, 2007, 03:12:38 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 17, 2007, 07:49:00 pm
Next on the list is the rotting tailpipe....
Post by: VileZambonie on June 17, 2007, 09:21:07 pm
Post by: Captkaos on June 17, 2007, 09:58:33 pm
Post by: bigwinch1 on December 02, 2012, 10:07:32 pm
Chris
Sorry just checked and saw you found the same problem i had glad you got it fixed