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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: shifter13 on April 07, 2006, 01:58:00 pm
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I have a 1985 Chev C-10 that I put a TargetMaster 350 4-bolt main hooked to TCI tranny, torque converter & flexplate. I've tried 3 different starters, including a mini-torque and they all hang up (won't disengage). I've tried at least 10 different shim combos. All the starters are staggered pattern, so would it help to go with straight across?
I spent some time on the phone w/TCI and all the parts I have match the application. I'm thinking maybe either the flexplate is defective or the block pad is incorrectly drilled. Any thoughts on how to proceed?
The TargetMaster # indicates 80-85 2-piece rear main seal made in Mexico.
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Taking a stab here, but are you sure your ring gear on the flexplate matches the starter? Do you still have the dustcover off and can see if any signs of distortion on the ring gear?
SgtDel
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I verified that the pinion gear on the starter works on both 153 & 168 flexplates, as I wasn't 100% sure, before I ordered the straight across style.
Was underneath w/remote starter switch and it looks good engaging. I talked with a local engine builder yesterday evening and he said he's run into that problem before, as the starter bolt holes can be off a little. He drills the nose piece to allow for some adj (with a boring setup), so if the straight across starter doesn't help, I'll get him to do that.
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you should be able to just shim the starter. You can shim it more than just equal amounts. For example you can use a half a shim on one side to move the drive gear closer or farther away from the driven gear, not just up and down.
here's an ok pic...
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I tried at least 10 different shim combos with three different starters, including all on the inside, outside, together and variations of both 1 and 2 hole shims. All resulted in hangup. I had 9 total shims to work with.
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Let me add that all this stuff is brand new and the engine has not been started.
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Have you tried going through the instructions Vile posted using a 1/8" drill bit or a pce. of 1/8 rod? Gotta try something.
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Is your 12 volt power cutting off when you want it to disengage? Ignition switch/solenoid working?
SgtDel
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Yes to following instructions.
Electrical circuit in truck is fine. Used standard circuit tester. Starter bench tests OK.
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So what can cause the engine to press back and put pressure on the starter gear?
Just a thought.
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Did you check the crank for end play?? If its never been run, theres could be a chance of a faulty bearing on the crank?? I don't know, just a thought, if the starters you've tried can't be shimmed out and the starter circuit checks out, you could have an engine/flywheel issue. Just a shot in the dark.
JayTater
Z28 C10
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Well you must have missed something along the way then. Elaborate again on exactly what happens. From what you are saying I gather that You crank the engine and when you release the key you still see the starter drive pinion engaging the teeth on the flexplate and it begins to overrun correct? You are also saying you have an internally balanced engine (counterweight on the back of the crank) and the flexplate is not on backwards?
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I'm going to try the straight across starter first and if that hangs up, I'll pull the flywheel and check against the stock one I have. The fellow I talked to at TCI said I could send it back & they'll check to see if there's a problem. Lots of good suggestions and I will recheck those mentioned.
Flexplate is for internally balanced motor. I'm absolutely certain it's installed correctly.
I'll update once I try the new starter.