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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: SUX2BU99 on April 04, 2006, 04:31:00 pm

Title: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: SUX2BU99 on April 04, 2006, 04:31:00 pm
This might sound like a silly question but when jacking up the front of the truck and supporting it, where the are proper or best points to do this?  With the way the framerails curve upward right when they enter the engine compartment, it leaves little to be desired to get a jacking and support point near the front of the truck. I find I have to jack or support the truck either at the perch from the frame where the body mount is, or immediately in front of it (this is only about 4” of room before the frame starts to angle upward) or at the tranny crossmember (which is fairly thin metal). I made the mistake of using my floor jack behind the crossmember and I bent the C channel of the frame a little.  The other problem is I can use one of the 3 places I mentioned to jack the truck up, but with the width of the floor jack wheels, I can’t get my jackstand in one of the flatspots on the frame to let the truck sit on before taking the floor jack out. What do you do????

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: Scottsdalenut15 on April 04, 2006, 06:01:00 pm
it doesnt sound like uhave a solid axle but your really in a picklearent ya? try shock mounts,,,,if uwant to jackup the whole front end then try a bumper jack or a floor jack with wood on it and go by ur bumper

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: Scottsdalenut15 on April 04, 2006, 06:10:00 pm
try just jacking it up by the axle

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: SUX2BU99 on April 04, 2006, 06:30:00 pm
Nope, no front solid axle here. I should clarify: I have a 85 C10 2wd shorty fleetside that has been lowered.  It's too low to get the jack under the front a-arms or to the front suspension crossmember. Well, I can get it under it but I can't pump the jack handle to get the jack to raise.

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: shaved80 on April 04, 2006, 07:50:00 pm
how low is your truck? i have a 5" drop in front and i can easily get my jack under the xmember. try a body mount

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: bfofish on April 04, 2006, 08:14:00 pm
IF YOUR TRUCK IS TO LOW TRY PARKING THE FRONT WHEELS ON A COUPLE OF PIECES OF SCRAP WOOD ,I HAVE TO DO THIS WITH MY S-10.THEN YOU CAN GET THE FLOOR JACK UNDER THE CROSSMEMBER.

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: shifter13 on April 08, 2006, 11:18:00 am
I have an '85 C-10 (longbed) and the way I support the front end is by putting the jackstands between the coil spring area and the balljoint.  Specifically, immediately after the coil spring dish out returns to the flat area on the lower control arm.  Once in place I shake the truck to make sure it's solid.  

As for lifting, best would be to get it high enough w/ramps,  etc. and jack under front frame support.

Also, I use the good quality jack stands, steel w/ratcheting adj.

Title: Re: Proper jacking and support points?
Post by: SUX2BU99 on April 09, 2006, 11:01:00 pm
Thanks for all the input.  My truck isn't terribly low in the front. I'd say it has maybe a 3" drop in the front, but with the air dam under the bumper, I have about 4-5" clearance under it to get the jack in there. The air dam scrapes most tire stops in parking stalls to get an idea of where it is at. I tried again today and I was able to get it under the front crossmember by getting the jack in at an angle from behind the front tire. I couldn't pump the handle too much at first but it eventually got high enough I could pump the handle some more and lifted the truck up high enough that I could my jackstands under the flat area of the frame just in front of the tranny crossmember. A little tedious but still better than using my dinky little 2-ton mini floor jack on each side. I'd rather jack it up at one central point then side to side.

I think the mini ramp idea is good though and I'd use a double layer of 2x10s to do that I think.