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Hello everyone, I have a 1979 C20 and the brake drums will no come off. My manual doesn't explain very well about replacing brake shoes. These drums are on there good. How do I get them off?! And do I have to use this (puller) I hear about? thanks in advance,
Mark
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i just beat the heck out of it and it finally came off
Shane Edited by: 85c10 at: 10/2/06 11:48 am
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there should be a little "window" at the bottom. There will be a self adjuster just above the window. Use a screwdriver to back off the shoes from the drum by turning the adjuster. Then a couple good whacks from a big hammer around the circumference of the drum should take it off.
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I'll try that...thanks guys
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With the rear jacked up so both wheels are off the ground, try turning the wheel. If it is too tight and wont turn, your shoe are tooooo tight. back off the adjuster as mentioned b4. If they do turn easily, well, the brakes aren't whats holding them. The drum is just frozen on there. Hit them with a non metallic surface, like a small scrap board, or atleast hold the board up against the drum while wacking the board w/ a hammer.
SgtDel
aka "Andy"
www.delbridge.net
1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4
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The drums do turn freely. Its hard to get clearance to hit the back side of the drum, due to the leaf springs. But I will try again. Also where's the adjuster at on these drums? Also, I noticed on the right drum only, there is a section of the lip on the back side that is like a cut-out or something(the flange area). But not on the left drum. Why is this?
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Do the drums wiggle a bit or are they locked solid to the hub?If they are locked solid to the hub,hit them with a STEEL hammer on the drum face only between the studs.You may want to thread the lug nuts on in case you miss.
If the drum does wiggle and it stops when you pull it forward you will either have to pull like crazy or get in the slot at the bottom of the backing plate.It may only appear like a stamped groove if it hasn't been knocked out yet.Punch out the knockout to get at the adjuster wheel.
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thanks everyone, I gonna make another atempt tonight
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I just had mine off the other day. My 1/2-ton had a knockout on the face of the drum, giving me access to the adjuster wheel so I could back the shoes away from the drum. Once you've punched out the access hole(if so equipped) turn the drum until the hole lands in the six-o'clock position. The adjuster wheel should be found slightly to the right.
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Don't hit the back side of the drum. That will either cause it to distort or break. Back off the star wheel adjuster and give it a few good whacks on the face to shock the drum and it should come off.
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Ok, I found the problem to why I can't remove the drum. The drum turns freely and it moves in and out about a 1/2 inch. The reason it only moves a 1/2 of an inch in and out, is because this @#%$ front piece that the wheel studs go through is keeping the drum from coming off. It almost seems impossible to replace brake shoes on a 3/4 ton pickup. How to you get the drum off, if this circle wheel stud thing is keeping it from coming off? How do you get brake drums off of a 3/4 ton?!!!???!!!!
thanks in advance,
Mark
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are you saying the axle face is keeping the brake shoes on? If so, the brake shoes must stay on until you get the drum completely off. Later, you can remove the springs that hold the shoes on. The axle stays where it is. the shoes come off a round it.
SgtDel
aka "Andy"
www.delbridge.net
1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4
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From what my manual says, I have to remove the axle shafts and a couple of things in the hub itself. Some type of nut requires the use of a special tool. All this to get the @#%$ drum off to replace shoes. I should have bought a 1/2 ton. The brake drum removal section of the manual says "For all models, the drum can be simply removed by pulling the drum off. Yeah right, for half tons maybe. Then I read on to the drivetrain section. Removal of hub assembly to remove brake drum. Has anyone here ever replaced brake shoes on a full floating axle?
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This is from the internet, but is just like mine. The piece in front of the drum that the wheels studs go through is keeping the drum from coming off.
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www.lighthouse57.com/brakes.htm
Edited by: roundedline at: 10/5/06 4:16 pm
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On a full floating 14bolt you have to remove the hub to get the drum off. I fixed gfoote link which is an excellent article by the way...
Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project
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Depending on whether it has a key retainer or lock washer retainer...
Remove wheel.
Removing Or Installing Axle Shaft Bolts
Remove axle shaft and axle shaft gasket (if used) or clean off RTV sealer.
Removing Or Installing Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut
Bend tang of lock washer away from the outer lock nut and remove the outer lock nut, lock washer and inner lock nut.
Remove outer wheel bearing.
Pull hub and drum straight off axle housing. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw.
or
Remove wheel, axle shaft and axle shaft gasket (if used) or clean off RTV sealer.
Remove retaining ring and key, then remove locknut from housing tube, using appropriate tool.
Removing Or Installing Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut
Using appropriate tool remove adjusting nut from housing tube.
Pull hub and drum straight off axle housing. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw.
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I finally got the drum off. I took the axle shaft out, then removed the nut off the hub that requires a special tool. Didn't have that special tool, so I used a screw driver and hammer. Then I removed the locknut, then inner nut, and then she slid right off! Piece of cake, I just wish my manual would have told me this in the brake section. But I have to say, it was very inconvient to remove part of the drivetrain just to get to the brakes. This has got to be one of the things I hate about full-floaters. Anywase, thank you all very much for your input. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!