73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: anesthes on June 05, 2007, 10:01:14 am
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I'm restoring a cab for one of my trucks. I have everything I need, except the cab frame supports. These measure about 30" total
in legth, run from the front by the kick area to about the center of the cab. They are what the cab support welds into.
I cannot find complete ones. truck offers a 20" one which seems to be just the bottom part, not the front part that goes up.
Anyone have any ideas? I'd hate to have to cut some out of another cab.
-- Joe
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My supplier is selling cab floor supports now. I am getting dimensions for them today.
I attached the picture of what it looks like...
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Thats what I need. Where can I get 'em ?
-- Joe
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They are 36.5" long x 6". We sell them. You can get them in out catalog:
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=0850-319-320&Category_Code=C1
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Maybe i'm retarded, but how come when I normally look at the catalog, I can't find that item?
Also, I dont see the outer support, but if I click on 67-72, there is one listed.
???
-- Joe
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There is 2 pages in the catalog and it is on the second page. You have to go to the bottom and select NEXT to see them (I am trying to fix this, but the upgraded online software didn't like it, so I need to find another work around)
They are on the bottom of the 2nd page:
Here is the floor support.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=0850-309&Category_Code=C1
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Ok, so I was being retarded. Now that you've pointed that out, I can buy what I need to get this truck off my lift :)
Thanks!
-- Joe
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Ok I ordered two of each. I'm guessing you don't have them in stock since they are new, so I hope you get them and out to me sorta quick.
Thanks again.
-- Joe
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They will be drop shipped. Should be about 5-7 business days. It is being processed now...
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Awesome. you guys are good. :)
-- Joe
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recieved them yesterday. Heavy duty steel, good construction.
I shoulda bought my other parts (rockers, cab corners, floors) from you folks rather than .. Oh well.
Thanks!
-- Joe
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SWEET! Show us some progress pics.
is the whole reason behind me doing this...
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is the whole reason behind me doing this...
Ahh, I will certainly keep that in mind when I need other parts I will be sure to check here first.
I spent a huge amount of money with over the past years and the quality of some of the crap they sell is unreal. At least they have decent customer service when you have to send things back because it is of such horrible quality!
I know where I will be buying my fenderwells and cab repair parts from in the future! ;)
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I have the left (driver) side almost all cut up as of yesterday. (taking a break today). Floor, rocker, cab corner, and frame supports.
I'm gonna rivet it 'in place' and once I know its in the 'right spot' i'll weld it in a few places for strength, and seam seal the crap outta it.
I'm concerned about doing the cab corners though. I don't mind a small weld seam in the door jam, but It's gonna be a dude to weld up the cab corners, grind the welds, mud it, sand it, glaze it, sand it, and hope the 'line' doesn't show through the paint..
I don't understand why the cab corner seam isn't in the dead center of the body molding.
-- Joe
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You should self tap screw everything in place first then weld all of it not just a few spots. The cab corners are pretty easy. Grind the weld almost smooth with the old metal and flush with the new, being careful not to go to far as the new metal will separate from the weld. I grind lightly up to the body line with and air grinder and 36 grit. So you can blend in the filler. Never ever put filler over paint or primer. It will be very very thin up that high. I sand blast my welds then mud them with a coat of short strand fiber glass filler. I knock that down with my air grinder, sometimes block sand it a bit with 36 grit. Then one possibly tow coats of regular filler. Block sand them with 36 grit, going at 45 degree angle to the cab corner. When I get the shape and flatness, I jump up to 80 grit just to level out most of the 36 grit scratches. Then feather sand the old paint and the scratches in the new panel with a DA 80 and 180 grit. If they have a black coating on them I sand it all off to bar metal, as it has no rust inhibitive qualities.
AS far as the bottom goes if your old inner cab corner is still good then you will need to drill 3 or 4 holes in the bottom lip to plug weld it. the same in the door jamb but don't go to low because you wont be able to fit the grinding wheel down in the corner.I usually trim the new panel to but weld inside the jamb. makes for a smoother transition.
Don't weld anything until you have screwed all the new stuff in place. Then hang the doors and make sure they are lined up with the a pillar, roof, and upper cab corner. Then realign the rocker etc. to fit them.
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Blazin,
Thanks for the advice!
Where in NH are ya?
-- Joe
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Danbury, about 12 mile east of Newfound lake. Junctions of Rt. 104, & Rt. 4
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I bought a boat in barrington yesterday. Nice area.
-- Joe
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South West of me. What neck of the woods you from?
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Methuen / Salem NH border.
If you were more local i'd invite you to the shop for a beer and a looky at the truck.
-- Joe
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You know Poles Auto? He moved to Hudson but used to be in or right near Salem. He is a budy of mines uncle.