73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Highs (Raising/Lifts) => Topic started by: bfofish on July 16, 2007, 05:29:10 pm
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So what is better with a 6" lift,rear lift blocks or 6" lift springs?I've been told that springs are a better ride.Don't know,never been in a truck that didn't have blocks. I had a 3" lift on my last blazer w/blocks in the rear,now I'm going 6".Just looking to smooth it out a little
(I know it's a 4x4 but.. ::))
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putting blocks in the rear causes axle wrap, and can be dangerous if the block flips out. Springs lifts are a much better choice. If you are going to use blocks, limit them to no more than 3".
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Thanks.
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The answer is really not that simple.
-Blocks can increase spring wrap on soft springs. This is simply an effect of moving the leverage point further away from the axle. With 3/4 or 1 ton springs this may not have any effect at all.
Usually people go to full springs because they want a soft spring (more flex) which would lead to an axle wrap problem with soft springs.
If you want to maintain a 3/4 or 1 ton rating on a truck you may want to use a block with the stiff heavy duty springs. This will keep your hauling capacity and spring wrap wont be a big issue because of the stiff springs.
There is a third option. You can do a shackle flip on these trucks in the rear. (OffRoadDesigns.com), This gives about 4" of lift with the stock springs. You can then use a short lift spring or small block to get the extra 2"
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I have done the shackle flip on mine and highly recommend it. I have used the offroaddesigns kit with there 6'' shackle and 1'' zero rates for a total of 6''.
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Just throwing this out there, but you can use 2WD shackles and do a flip also, but ORD's kit is nice.
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Thanks for all the ideas.
I'll let you know what I decide to do.
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I was going to ask this same question but made sure I did a search first. So what is a shakle flip? And how does that add lift? And which is better on a 1/2 ton pickep, Blocks or springs? Thanks.
Dan
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Springs are always better
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
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Wow, That is sweet, and that should help me find a bit cheaper way to get the lift I want and not have to use blocks either. Thank you.
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sorry to bring up anold post but to much power+lift blocks=
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/zachs92/Photo-0231.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/zachs92/Photo-0230.jpg)
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:o OUCH!!!!!
I like that flip kit Vile,gonna have to look into it.
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I've actually tack welded blocks in place to make sure they don't move.
If you have that much power you would not want soft springs either. The spring wrap woudl destroy ujoints in a heartbeat.
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big long ladder bars help alot...
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Big long ladder bars defeat the whole point of a lift though?!!! ??? Unless you are doing it ONLY for vanity reasons.
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I've used 4" blocks in the rear under new leaf springs before. It worked fine, but I didn't have much more power than stock.
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Big long ladder bars defeat the whole point of a lift though?!!! ??? Unless you are doing it ONLY for vanity reasons.
no, big long ladder bars, or traction bars which ever term you want to use, help to prevent axle wrap and keep thinks from breaking. many high powered trucks are running them. im not sure why they would defeat the point of a lift.
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Because the point of a lift (other than vanity) is to GAIN ground clearance!!!! If you lift it 4" but have to add 8" deep ladder bars down 3 feet of the frame length you have defeated the purpose. Not to mention that many ladder bar set ups restict articulation, cause bind when the suspension is at full stuff etc etc.
There are plenty of ways to fight axle wrap other than ladder bars. Especially if you want to retain the ability to tow.
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well if thats the case, why lift a 88-current ifs chevy? the drop down that holds the transfercase and LCA's interfer with ground clearance.
ladder bars go no lower than the rear end its self, so the chances of them getting hung up on something is slim.
many trucks with big lifts wont be crawling so having to worrie about flex isnt an issue. A big lifted leaf spring truck will not have much flex period. If people want flex, they use a coil over style setup with link bars and if set up correct the link bars put a stop to axle wrap.
I use my ford for work, i need it lifted to get down the right-of-ways on the pipeline because it can be muddy, the chances of me needing to go places that my truck running on 10" of lift on 37's cant go are none. i still use my truck to tow and long ladder bars will work just fine for me.
and i use it for play...
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/zachs92/037.jpg)
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Haha, You obvioulsy don't get over to ColoradoK5.com or Pirate4x4.com much do ya?
There are TONS and TONS of guys wheeling (rockcrawling) these rigs.
First off the 88+ IFS trucks SUCK for off road. Secondly, 10" of lift for 37s on one of these?????? I have 37s with only 4" of lift thanks to the Bushwhacker flares. And no need for ladder bars with only 4" lift.
Most guys avoid the lift springs and blocks altogether buy flipping the rear shackle.
That's not wheeling, that is a waterhole on the way to the trail.
(http://coloradok5.com/uavflex.jpg)
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sorry to bring up anold post but to much power+lift blocks=
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/zachs92/Photo-0231.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/zachs92/Photo-0230.jpg)
LOL
Built FORD tough!
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no i really dont go over on those sites, that is some nice flex but doesnt the aid of the fliped shackle help? that little water hole is just about the only thing i can take my truck in, my trucks to long to take on little trails, if i had a "trail rig" them yea that little water hole would silly. i built my truck for work. back on topic, ladder bars help in axle wrap...no matter how much lift you have.
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A short overload spring will take care of axle wrap too. But it will allow the spring to flex up and down, just not twist and also help with ground clearance.