73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: the_legend_1981 on August 13, 2007, 01:38:18 pm
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anyone have experience with these and how they last? like rockers and cab corners?
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Don't waste your time. They will never line up, all they are is a band aid that creates more rust. The only way to fix rust is to cut it out and weld in a new piece.
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I 'll be using some fender arch panels here right shortly and welding is out, Pop rivets will have to do. Figure any benefit from cutting out most of the original cancered metal before popping them on??
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why is welding out? I would remove everything I can as far as rust goes and coat the inside with some rust inhibitive paint. You could use panel adhesive too, but the tool is kinda expensive from what I understand.
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Welding is out cause I have no skills that way, nor tools, nor buds who do, and I R to poor to pay for it.
Looks like somebody took a shotgun to the arches, I can grind 'em back but wonder if it might be better to cut out a bunch so as not to provide a place for moisture to hang. OR.. I could slather a bunch of silicone over both surfaces after a good coat of bedliner..??
The whole bed needs replaced but $$$s preclude that for now. The best "redneck body work" is what I am shooting for. Just something to hold me over for a couple years.
Panel adhesive, have heard there is some that works well but can't see why steel rivets and a bit of body filler will not fill the bill. Am I missing something?
Not going for a show truck here, she is a working beast. Just looking for something that is not too embarrassing to drive.
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If you are going to rivet it I would bother with filler. It will crack and pop out along the joint in no time. I have done a few low budget jobs and just spaced the rivets evenly, then used seam sealer and wiped it down with lacquer thinner to smooth it up. The adhesive will last longer, and you can use filler over it. Use a thin grinding wheel 4" or so on and electric grinder to cutout the bad. Then cut you patch panel about 1/2 in bigger than the cut.You will need to use self tapping screws to hold it in place tight up against the old metal until it drys. NO SILICONE EVER IN BODY WORK!
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I did the adhesive method recently on a cab corner. It worked well for me. I used metalized epoxy as my adhesive. The piece isn't structural or bears a lot of weight, so I think it would be fine.
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OK, the adhesive sounds interesting and less holes(for rivets) sounds good but I'm going to need a bit of schooling please.
Which adhesive would you recommend? 3M? Other?
Can a gun be found for less than $100? How would I go about clamping the fender arch panel? Or how many screws might be needed to clamp/hold it in place?
Should I remove most all of the original metal that will be replaced/covered with the new panel, including the lower radius of the arch?
Sorry to be a pain, sheet steel and rivets I understand, have used and gotten good service from over the years but this adhesive is all new to me.
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My gun, basically a glorified caulk gun with two plungers, was around $80.00. I can't remember the brand of adhesive, but last time I said it I think Chris named it in a reply. Any auto body panel adhesive will work, just make sure it fits the gun or visa versa.
I would say a screw every 1" or so to clamp / hold it.
If the lip of the arch is still solid I would leave it and glue to it then clamp it with vise grips. You will need to grind the two surfaces that will mate each other the achieve a mechanical bond with the adhesive.
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Fusor Glue is what I mentioned. It is the only thing I have seen personally used. There are more, though.
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Yeah what Chris said, Thats the stuff. I did some cab corners and a quarter / wheel arch. It worked slicker than you know what!
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That is the brand NAPA carries is it not? I 'll give it a shot.
Thanks
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I got mine from a speed shop / Big A store
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someone tried putting these on my cab corners some time in my trucks life and now they look like crap
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They glued a panel on the S-10K truck on trucks.