73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Projects Posts (NOT VEHICLES) => Topic started by: team39763 on August 01, 2007, 10:39:05 am
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Hey guys, I'm working on the same swap. Right now I'm having a problem with my upper motor mounts - they have a hump in the middle that won't let them sit flush against the adapter plates on the motor. We already mocked it up in the truck a couple times to check the fit. I'm putting a carb on mine and I'm using my TH350. I should have the motor secured in place later this week if I can get someone to cut the hump on the motor mounts. Good luck with yours.
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bump in the upper motor mounts? Where? What did they come off of? whose adapter plates are you using?
These are mine using stock V8 engine mounts and S&P adapter plates
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/sandp_plates2.jpg)
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There's a little hump on my mounts. I'm using the ebay adapter plates(I don't remember the exact maker). Everything seems to line up perfect except the bump doesn't let it sit flush. Or should I use spacers to make it sit right?
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Can you just get some mounts that don't have that bump on them?
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I've asked around and nobody in my town has any. A neighbor just took them to see if he could heat them up and smash the hump down. Hopefully they don't warp. I'm gonna check ebay right now.
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Well, my neighbor got it done. So now i'm ready to get it set in there and start lookin for some exhaust. I'm gonna try my pacesetters off my 2000 sierra, but I heard that the frame has to be trimmed to fit them.
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I don't think the 99-up versions will work as the frame is MUCH wider. If you want headers that fit I recommend calling S&P. I know they have some, they aren't cheap though.
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Man, that sucks. I wonder how much trimming I'd have to do to fit them? I test fitted them earlier and they looked like they would fit, but we'll have to see how it fits with everything secured in place. The previous owner had done some clearance work to clear some headers that didn't fit before with the 350. Yeah, those S&P's are $$$, I think I'll try the ZO6 manifolds before I buy those.
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I would bolt them up to see, but don't be disappointed if they don't.
I will be using 2000 Truck manifolds on mine and had to grind them down some.
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I got it in there. Only problem now is that I had to unbolt the trans mount and scoot the trans 1" closer to the motor. So I'm assuming I need a 1" longer driveshaft. But it looks good in there. The headers didn't really fit...too tight, so I'm looking into some f-bod headers to try.
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Hey, I just found out that TRT is using ported truck manifolds for their LSX swaps. I'm gonna do that too(if I can manage to port mine). What kind of flanges do you get to connect them to your exhaust? I don't think I have the stock y-pipe from my 2000.
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TRT as in Billy at Texas Rear Turbos? We sell the STS kits also, my brother has talked with him on occasion.
I am going to build the exhaust for the truck since it will have turbos on it. I have the flanges from the 3/4T the motor came out of though, probably can get them from the dealer or from a salvage yard.
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So I'm assuming I need a 1" longer driveshaft. But it looks good in there. The headers didn't really fit...too tight, so I'm looking into some f-bod headers to try.
Do your plates look like the ones I pictured, it should have put the motor back on the same place. If you moved it forward, I would check it before running it for sure.
I tried F-body manifolds and they didn't work for me. I don't know if I have pics of them, but the passenger side is where I had problems on both.
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Yeah, Billy at TRT. He told me that they used F-bod headers(Pacesetters), but I noticed that on one project they used ported truck manifolds. My motor mounts were the ebay ones that come in bare metal. Nobody said I'd have to move the drivetrain, so maybe I did something wrong. I'm definately getting a set of F-bod headers to try, so I'll let you know how that works out.
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He is using them on 73-87 conversions? The F-bodies tucked in to far toward the trans and would have been a pain to make the exhaust.
You can see my truck manifolds mount in this post.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=5225.msg25143#msg25143
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Your truck manifolds look like they fit nicely after some grinding. It looks like it was the EGR port was in the way (same here). I'm gonna see if my wife will grab a set of those 2002 camaro headers($280 on ebay) later on today, so hopefully next week I'll have some news on those. But yeah, Billy said they used them on their 79 conversion.
Check out these truck manifolds he did.
http://www.trtturbo.com/images/ported_truck_manifolds_001.jpg
http://www.trtturbo.com/images/gmc_truck_018.jpg
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I have some 2002 F-body manifolds I will sell you for $150 if you want them.
I do know that the S&P ones fit perfectly. I know someone that did the LSX conversion on his Blazer back in 2002. I can say if I was going to get some, I would get them.
Yep, it was the EGR port, this is what they look like now.
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These are the ones Billy told me to use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200135564583&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010
A friend of mine already has a set that I'm gonna try to borrow to test fit. But if those don't work, I'll see about trying your manifolds.
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report back on what you find on the headers.
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I'm trying to get my hands on some hooker headers right now. Hopefully I'll have them by the end of next week. I already bought the victor jr intake and MSD control box(not the edelbrock one). I just have to figure out what fuel pump to run. I've heard good and bad about the Holley blue, but I'd like to just go with one that has a rock solid reputation. Any suggestions? I'm not looking to spend $300 on a pump though.
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Mallory Comp 110 fuel pump or Holley blue. Keep in mind if you are going to run a carb you need to get a regulator also to drop the fuel pressure down to about 5-7.
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I'm still searching for headers. My intake should be here today or tommarow, so I'll post some pics of it soon. I'm trying to decide if I should run a complete tank/pump from a new model(GTO or truck) or just put in a fuel cell and add a Holley blue pump. I have regulator on it's way already.
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What kind of fuel tank are you going to use. I would run an in tank pump. Makes them quieter and they last longer. If you are using stock fuel tanks, you can put a 87 EFI pickup in it and use a the TBI pump for it max 18lbs and regulate it down for the carb.
How about I change this topic to team39763's carb'd LS swap and move it to the project forum?
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That's fine with me.
I have my wrecked 2000 Sierra that I can get the tank and fuel pump from, or I can buy a GTO tank w/ pump. Whichever tank I get will be mounted behind the rearend.
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Here's my progress so far. At this point I just have the fuel system and the exhaust system left to figure out(plus a minor issue with the torque converter). The swap hasn't been too hard or expensive. I already had the motor from my wife's truck, so all I needed was the motor mounts and crank spacer to use my TH350. A friend is getting me a longer driveshaft to have cut/balanced for my application. The truck is pretty stripped down to be light as possible on the frontend. I'm hoping to run 12's on motor.
Any advice or suggestions/comments are welcomed. I've already been told that I'm an idiot for putting a carb on an LSX and defeating the purpose of the swap. My reason for putting the carb is that I already had most of the parts, + I know more about carbs and don't need to run to a tuner every time I do a mod. I enjoyed my truck when it had a carb 350, but I didn't trust the reliability of the bottom end or the ignition system + the heads sucked. With my 6.0 I have 6bolt mains, Katech rod bolts, and heads that flow pretty good and weigh less than the SBC's.
Here's a comparison, I'd say it's all improvements.
SBC 350 - LQ4 364
2bolt mains - 6bolt mains
weak rods - PM rods w/ katech rod bolts
worn flat cam - 226 roller cam
crappy iron heads - decent aluminum heads
victor jr - victor jr
850Demon - 750DP
stock distributor - individual coils/MSD controller w/rev limiter + nitrous retard
clutch fan - dual electric fans
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Nothin wrong with that man! Keep us updated!
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sexy :o
I'm also curious what all you took outta/offa the front end
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no to steal ur post but- i was flippin through a chevy performance catlog tonite and a 6.0 block for $695 caught my eye- anybody have yays or nays about a 6.0 in these trucks??
thought it would be kinda cool to have but idk yet
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I say go for the 6.0. I got my 6L longblock for 1700 shipped, but I've heard that they can be found for $1200 depending on condition. $695 seems high for just a block, maybe you should check the wrecking yards first.
I took everything out of the front end.LOL. Inner fenders, horns, ac unit, wipers, wiper motor, speedo, window squirter, battery/tray, A/C ducting, dashboard, seats, and anything else that I didn't need to get the truck running. I wanted my truck to be nice and light in the front. I'm gonna take it to the scales when I get the motor running(hopefully all that stuff made a difference).
I just bought a Mallory 110 pump, so I'll have the fuel system installed by Friday. I also bought a Mallory return style regulator and some 3/8" tubing for fuel lines. I bought some 10series flowmasters(single chamber), but I still need an x-pipe and some headers.
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I would get a complete running motor if you are going to get one. All those components will add up quickly. I am putting a 6.0L in mine also. $695 is what the bare block runs from GM.
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Nice project. Looking good. ;)
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I painted the air cleaner, intake, and valvecovers. I'm pulling the motor in a couple days to paint the engine bay and install the TH400 my friend gave me. I also added some flexible hoses(stainless steel) for the radiator. I don't know if you can tell, but I have plexiglass over the hole where the A/C was mounted. I'm gonna run my fuel pressure gauge across there, so I can see it from my seat while I'm driving.
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I just recieved my Mallory 110 fuel pump and regulator. I'm just waiting on my headers and fuel cell that I ordered. I'm not sure how I should mount the fuel cell though. I was thinking that if I put it under the bed(behind the axle), it'd be too low to gravity feed the pump. So I may try to rig something up to have it recessed a few inches into the bed from the top.
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Putting it under the bed should be fine. Here is Jeff's (bigblock73) write-up on how he did it:
http://73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/fuelcellinstall.htm
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Cool. Thanks. I think that's the exact fuel cell I bought too.
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I got my headers in today, but they barely fit. I need to do some more grinding on the crossmember mounts on the passenger side. The driver side fit OK. My motor might be sitting slanted though since it's not hooked to the trans(it's just held up by a jack under the oilpan). I tried to bench press the trans up there, but I couldn't get it to line up. It sucks having to do this in my muddy driveway with only a small jack and no jackstands. I'm gonna mount my fuel cell next week - I forgot to buy the mounts with it.
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We're gonna try to start the truck in the morning. We just need to hook up the fuel pump and fans. The only potential problem is figuring out how to wire up the alternator - my truck has 2 wires + the ground and the alternator has one wire + the ground. Hopefully we can get it to run, I'm tired of people asking me if it'll work.
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Well, my friends never showed up and I can't seem to get it wired up right. I'm tired of messing with it. It's up for sale at this point. I got my eye on a nice Duramax.
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Wait, rather than figuring out how to wire up your alternator you assed yourself out because your friends didn't show up? LOL Well you better get used to it because the older you get the harder and harder it gets to find a friend that will actually show up and help you. you best learn to find ways to figure things out for yourself or you'll never get ahead.
PS I don't think there's a soul here that wouldn't do their best to try and get you figured out but good luck with that duramax piece of garbage
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I'm just frustrated that I can't seem to do things right. Not only that, but I don't seem to have enough money and resources to put this truck together. I would have paid the $790 to get the truck wired up, but I dont' have a way to take the truck up there(3hour drive).
What's wrong with the Duramax? Would a Dodge truck be a better choice? I only like the duramax because I've been around them a little more and I know more about them.
It wasn't the alternator that had me stumped(at that moment). It was the fuel pump and relay. I got a box full of parts that I was told that I needed, but I don't know what to do with some of the stuff or where it goes. The 3 mechanics in town won't help me for some reason, and the guys I asked online weren't much help. I know it's just simple stuff, but I'm just not familiar with wiring or any of the terms. My wife offered to give me $3000 to get the truck finished, but I don't know if that will do it. The guy that'll do the wiring and tuning for $790 also said I need a good trans and good wheels and tires before he puts it on his dyno. I'll post up when I figure out what to do.
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The alternator should have a BAT and ground terminal. BAT goes to the battery and ground goes to a good ground. You shouldn't need anything else.
I wouldn't give up on it now, you almost have it started!
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We got a mechanic to agree to come by and help me wire it up tonight. Maybe I'll get to hear it run. I'll post a sound clip if we get it done tonight.
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let us know how it goes! Hang in there.
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The mechanic wasn't much help, but I went back in there with a cool head and just used my best judgement and I think I'm going in the right direction. I got a question. Where in the wiring do I install a fuse holder and fuse(for the fuel pump). I have a 20amp fuse, will that work? I have 30amp fuse for the fans.
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I hooked my fuel pump fuse to the power block on the firewall.
I'm not sure if you can add the fans there. You could hook up directly to the battery with 10 ga. wire.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f81/123pugsy/CopyofDSC03716.jpg)
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you want the fuse to be as close to the power source as possible. Dont give up on the conversion. try this site for more LS1 help.
tons of swap knowledge here
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28
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HAHA!! I got to hear it run today. I'm excited and a little disappointed. It didn't sound like I expected it to. It also had tons of gas leaks, so that's an issue right now(tightening fittings didn't help much, so I must have forgot to put teflon tape/sealant). I'll see if I can post up a vid soon.
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Gas will eat right through pipe tape unless they make a special kind. I tried using pipe tape on a thread once and it pretty much melted it.
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Oh OK, I didn't know that. I'm gonna run out there and yank that crap off there and put some thread sealant. Thanks for telling me.
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What kind of fittings are you using? AN or compression, etc....
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What kind of fittings are you using? AN or compression, etc....
Something doesn't sound right. I don't think you should be using any type of sealer.
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That was my next response, if it is AN or compression it shouldn't have anything on the threads. If it is the GM fittings for EFI, they take an o-ring...
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I have some AN fittings(which were probably just loose) and I have 3/8NPT fittings where the teflon tape melted as Scottsdale said. A buddy of mine told me to use teflon tape, so that's why I used it. I went back and put thread sealer on all the threads in the fuel system. I'm gonna fire it up in a few minutes.
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I fixed the leaks. But it still starts like crap. It cranks and cranks then it starts. The idle is ok, but I can't tell much with the open headers(it's just loud). Could carb tuning affect the start up?
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Does it do this everytime (the constant cranking). There is no way I could work on getting one running with open headers... are you having to give it gas to make it crank or does it fire on its own?
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go get some exhaust on it. the open headers will mess up the O2 sensor readings. I jsut completed a TPI swap and it ran like crap until i got the pipes on it.
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Giving it gas doesn't really help. It just starts when it's ready, but it stays running without a problem. I think I'm gonna take it to a real mechanic to tune it. I feel like I've done as much as I can do(getting it running). I'm trying to find someone to do the exhaust the way I want it done. I hope it sounds good...I got an H-pipe and 10 series flowmasters (3" all the way).
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SatisTraction, team39763 is running a carb on the 6.0L so he isn't going to have any ECM issues, and as far as I know he isn't running O2's...
If you know a little about carb tuning you can put a vacuum guage on it and tune it to where it has the most vacuum. On the adjustment screws I usually start at 2 turns out, and start with 10 degrees initial timing with no more than about 32degrees max.
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^Good info. I'm gonna go look for a vacuum gauge and check and see what the timing is on each one of those timing pills. Nope, I don't have o2's, but I might pick up a wideband in a few weeks.
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I mounted my wheels and tires, now I just need to lower the truck. I'm thinking about using spindles in the front along with the 2" drop springs it already has. In the back, I'm just gonna pull the helper leaf. The truck sits really high in the front for some reason. For tires, I just have some junkyard tires up front and 28X10.5 MT slicks in the back.
The pictures really don't do the truck justice. It looks a lot better in person.
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Removing the helper isn't going to make alot of difference, especially compared to the extra drop the spindles are going to do.
I take it that you have it running now? You still selling it (currious about the FS thread you posted)
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A friend of mine said that removing one of the leaf springs will lower it another 1.5", so that's why I was planning to do it. Maybe relocating the hangers would be a better move? Yes, I'm still planning to sell it, but I figured I'd get it running and get it how I want it first -if it turns out nice, I'll keep it.
I'm not sure if you can tell from the pictures, but the front sits a good bit higher than the back, so I'm hoping to get as much drop as I can up front and only a little in the back. Hey Capt, how's your project coming along? You were pretty far along with it(judging from the pictures).
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Negative on the 1.5" drop from a leaf. If you remove the helper, you will get the thickness of it (about 3/4") drop.
It looks fairly even to me. Is there any drop components on it now?
It is at Toolmasters house (1hour away) and I have been busy trying to get my TPI conversion completed on my 2WD Jimmy, plus some house work that needed to be completed before winter. I hope to be back on it again soon.
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I have 2" drop shackles(possibly 1" drop shackles). I only want the back to go down a little. I really need to save up the cash for some spindles. The front sits very high. I'll take some pictures on flat/even ground since my driveway is just uneven dirt.
I'm buying a nitrous kit from a friend, it should be here next week. I'm gonna try to hide the bottle under the dashboard and hide the solenoids in the wiper cowl. I changed my mind about selling the truck. My wife made me see that me and this truck were just meant to be together.
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A 2" shackle should level the truck but the LS motor is a slight amount lighter than the typical SBC.
Sweet! Want me to delete the FS post?
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. My wife made me see that me and this truck were just meant to be together.
Now that's a cool wife! ;D
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I already deleted it. Yeah, my wife is real cool. She's helped a lot throughout the whole swap - she did the braided fuel lines and ordered most of my parts for me.
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Sweet! Sounds like a keeper.
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I got the transmission in and I thought I was all done. Then a bunch of problems came up - mainly things I overlooked or didn't think about. First, I put the shifter linkage on wrong, so then the truck wouldn't go into park or reverse(fixed that). Then my fuel pump was only putting out 4psi(fixed that). Then I took it for a drive. I tried to just stomp on it, but it bogged and backfired. Then I tried stalling it up first, and that worked better, but it just took off sluggish + being open headers, it was just loud, but not really moving that fast. I tried shifting, but it didn't do anything. I had forgot to buy a small vacuum hose for the modulator and my trans builder said that was the reason it wouldn't shift. Hopefully he's right. I let out after about 1 block - at that point I was already 100% disappointed in the truck. I need to get the carb tuned, my plugs are fouled for the 5th time already. My wife is gonna get my exhaust done tommarrow or the next day, so that'll be taken care of. I hope the truck ends up running better than it did today.
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I am sure it will, you just need to get the bugs out.
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I think it's almost ready to drive. I got the exhaust welded on by a local mechanic(he didn't finish it though, so I'm gonna try to learn to weld this week and finish up what I paid him to do). I think I may have figured out why I'm getting little or no spark and I fixed what I think was the problem. I would have already fired it up to see how it sounds, but it ran out of gas.
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I stayed up late last night and worked on the truck. I got some gas and fired it up and it sounds pretty good. Somehow, I lost the plug that goes in my power steering pump, so the pulley/pump started burning up. At first I found a plug that fit, but I torqued it down too much and it tore the threaded fitting completely off the pump, so I just used a screw w/ O-ring to block the opening. I bought a Holley carb tuning book, so I'm gonna go try to tune my carb myself. I would've drove the truck, but it's raining and I have slicks on the back.
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Here's a idle vid. I didn't rev because the throttle kept sticking and motor would backfire if I gave it too much pedal too quickly. Let me know what ya'll think of it.
http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f143/team39763/?action=view¤t=MOV01269.flv
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Sounds good. Just get the timing set for the backfiring issues and you'll be good to go.
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Sounds really good.
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Sounds GREAT :D What cam do you have in there?
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Thanks. I'm hoping to get another video of it from a better angle so you can actually hear the mufflers. Here's another video my wife shot a few days ago. The cam is a Comp Cams 226 grind with 580ish lift.
The throttle got stuck while I was trying to start the truck and I waited a few seconds to see if it would come back down, so then I kicked the pedal and it backfired(but it came back to the 650rpm idle).
I messed with it today and I think I had the cable and bracket setup wrong, so I fixed that and the pedal feels a lot better now. Next I'm gonna see if I can borrow a wideband O2 sensor from somebody or jump on a dyno somewhere and do some tuning. I guess I should have bought my own wideband O2 before I went and bought that nitrous kit. ;D
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man that's music to my ears! that's sounding GREAT, truck looks nice too! i want to see a video of this thing once you "let 'er eat!"
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This sucks, I can't get it running again. It'll start and spit and backfire through the carb the whole time. Sometimes I can get it to idle, but like I said it definately ain't right, spitting and blowing white smoke through the carb and it shakes the whole truck. It won't rev without backfiring really hard, even at that, it'll only hit 2000rpms and eventually stall. What could be causing that? I'm no mechanic, and I don't know what to check. I tried all 6 different timing pills, I have constant fuel pressure, but my plugs are still fouled. What do you guys think?
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honestly, it sounds like the timing is off. you might have lost a sensor or your MSD box could be on the fritz...
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honestly, it sounds like the timing is off. you might have lost a sensor or your MSD box could be on the fritz...
Yep, what he said.
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I still can't get it started, and I don't know what else to check. I already arranged for the truck to be picked up and dropped off at a Dodge dealership in the next town. Hopefully they can get it running.
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Are you getting spark and fuel?
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I'm sure I'm getting fuel, spark may not be as strong as it should be, but I think it's there. I'm pretty sure I need a new set of spark plugs, mine have been fouled 9 times already so I think it's time for a new set. I also think I had the coils flipped around backwards, but I'm not sure if that made a difference(but I really can't tell which way they go...YOU?). I have a gut feeling that it's the MSD box, either it's defective or I wired it wrong. Can any of you guys tell me - is the power wire to the distibutor hot while cranking and in the on position? That's what I'm using for 12volt power to the msd box.
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Not sure what you mean about the coils being "backwards" you could mount them to the firewall if you wanted.. The original distributor wire is switch power as you described.
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I was told that the right bank and the left bank have their own set of coils - they have two different part#'s. I'm guessing switching them is like having your distributor 180* off??? Does that make sense? I'm gonna call up a GM dealership and get the story on that just to know for sure.
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Coil packs aren't specific to left/right sides if that is what you are asking....
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Not the individual coilpacks, but the electrical connector that fires them. I don't know...I think I confused myself.LOL. I've been reading up on EVERYTHING I could find on LS1's, trying to figure out what the problem could be. On my motor, the electrical connector on the passenger bank has an even number and the driver side has an odd number. I'm just gonna send if off to that Dodge dealership and pray for the best.
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The connectors are specific left to right. Does the MSD setup batch fire the coils or sequential fire them. If it is the former, it doesn't matter.
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just curious...why are you sending a GM to a Dodge dealership?
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I'm not sure about the batch fire or sequential thing, I'll email MSD and see what they say.
I'm sending it to Dodge because their head mechanic is really a GM man and he builds some pretty nice GM rides. Also, when I went to the GM dealership, nobody knew what an LS6 was and they also said there's no such thing as a crank relearn - that right there told me that they didn't know much about the products they sell/work on. I'll snap some pictures of this Dodge dealership - it's overflowing with some nice GM's(both workers' rides and customers').
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Well, I just changed my mind about taking it to somebody else. I don't mind asking for help, but I can't have somebody else do the work for me. I honestly want to learn as much as I can. So I'm gonna just sit down with my Holley book and rebuild my carb and set it to stock specs. Then I'm gonna test the sensors(cam/crank). I'm thinking I should buy new wires since the ones I have are secondhand and were probably removed because they were bad. New sparkplugs will go in too. If you guys can think of anything else, let me know. The timing is set with those pre-set pills, so I'm hoping that one of them is close to what I need.
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We will help you as best we can. Was the Holley not new? I would start with the timing and get it straightened out first, especially if it won't stay running.
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your on the right track, do it your self. So next time if it acts up, you will know just what it needs!
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That holley is used. It was setup with plugs instead of PV's and has the jets squared(76's). I'm getting ready to pull the accessories and check on the timing chain, if that's good then I'm swapping in new plugs and wires and maybe new coils. I'm picking up new cam/crank sensors today, so that'll be next. If all that doesn't take care of the timing/spark, then all that's left is the MSD box.
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How many miles are on the motor? Wasn't it running fine before the swap? These motors will go up to 400K miles without going into... I would put some smaller jets in there. I would also give MSD a call on the controller and see what they say...
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ya man don't crack the front cover. It should be just fine. You mentioned swapping spark plugs and what not, did you do that? Can you get a carb off of a vehicle you know is working. Swap that out? Keep it simple, what worked when it was EFI should still work now as far as internals.
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ahh, i hear ya on the GM guys...that is ridiculous that they didn't know basic GM info. makes me glad i'm a mechanic. i'm really happy to hear that you are doing it on your own. you will be a lot more satisfied (as will your wallet) doing it this way. my vote is still the MSD box...but hopefully whatever it is you find really fast...i know how annoying these things can be.
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The motor has less than 30,000miles on it. I'm planning on throwing in some smaller jets, what sizes do ya'll suggest? I contacted MSD, at first they said check the grounds(did that), then check the cam sensor(did that), then I asked about my wires(they said mine were fine). The directions say not to use solid core wires, but I don't know what kind the stockers are. I'm gonna try to borrow some MSD wires and see if it makes a difference. I'm gonna buy 2 sets of sparkplugs and a few different power valves + jets and a rebuild kit. I tried a carb off a bigblock, but it idled really high(2000rpm) on my truck and the owner wouldn't let me adjust the idle. So I guess I'm better off just rebuilding my carb. Somehow I feel like it's the MSD box too. I'm getting a ride to town in the afternoon, so I'll pick up all the parts I need and stay up late installing them.
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Definitely don't pull the cover with only 30K miles. We turbo'd my brothers 5.3L at 130K miles, and didn't think twice about doing it. Are the current wires stock, if so they aren't solid core.
I would pick up a power valve and some 68 or 70 Jets to start off with on the primary side? What model carb are we talking about here....
Just found this, read through this for some carb info...
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
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It's model 4779-9. I still haven't figured out the -9, I don't see it on Holley's website. All the previous owner told me was that it was a 4150 style 750cfm double pumper. He didn't mention any mods to it, just that it had been passed around by a few guys.
I have two power valves here at the house - a 6.5 and a 8.5. I'll be sure to grab those jets too.
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The auto store didn't have the rebuild kit I needed, so I just bought what they had - a set of 68 and 70 jets and some gaskets. I popped in the 68 jets and threw in the 8.5 Power valve then I set the float level dry and spray everything out really good and tried to clean the air bleeds as best I could with carb cleaner and a thin metal wire. I also swapped in some new plugs(gapped). When I first started it this morning, it wouldn't stay running. It would die after a few seconds(about 15). I figured it was the dirty air filter so I took it off and the truck ran good. Then I checked my fuel pressure while it was running, and it was at 4psi, so I cranked it up at the regulator and it was all good. I drove it around the block and the transmission shifted firm just like I wanted(even with the 3500 converter). At the end of the road, I stalled it up to about 2500 and let loose. I hit the rev limit on the 1-2, but the truck felt good and strong. I only held it for a couple blocks, but I don't think I've stopped smiling for the last 30minutes or so....I'm happy with it. My wife was leaving, so she didn't get to record it, but she said it looked and sounded good and was 100% better than last time she saw me drive it. The only thing that went wrong was that the power steering pump blew that plug out and spewed PSF all over the driver side of the motor. I'm gonna weld the hole shut this weekend, so hopefully the truck stays running good like it is.
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Glad to hear its better. Keep plugging away and it always works out. ;D
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Looks like the fun is over for a little while. I took it out for a hard run on the back roads and the belt tensioner broke and the motor started overheating. It spit the coolant all over. The pulley of the tensioner broke off completely and took my belt with it. My buddies were impressed with it eventhough it wasn't running right. There seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere because when I hit the brakes, it wants to die(sometimes). And also, the rev limiter was pre-set to 5500, and I could tell I needed more RPM...these 4.56's had me through the gears quick. I didn't know the tensioner broke until I got home. What would cause a tensioner to come apart like that? It wasn't under a lot of tension, and everything is the same stock accessories that I ran before, so nothing should have been out of alignment. ???
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I got the tensioner replaced and raised my rev limiter. It runs better now, I just need to adjust the carb a little more and then get a wideband on it to see what's really going on. Those preset chips that came with the MSD box have 5500 rev limiter, so I have to do my own timing now. I'll let you guys know how it goes. And thanks for all the help guys. Merry Christmas.
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awesome man! Merry Christmas to you and yours as well!
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I hope you guys had a good Christmas. I did. It was my first "real" Christmas with my wife....the other 4 years we were too poor or we were both working. This year we had a tree with gifts and dinner and all that good stuff. Our 1 year old daughter had a great time.
For some reason, I let my buddy convince me to run my truck against his. But first I took his cousin for a test drive to see what he thought of my carb tuning. I stalled it to 3000 and it dead hooked and went screamin down the road. I was shocked because usually 4.56 gears+3500stall+slicks@30psi+cold street pavement = tire smoke show. Anyway, it impressed me and my buddies. The guy that got my old 350 wanted to race just to see how much faster my truck is(compared to the old setup). We have identical trucks and he got my old engine, headers, converter, trans, and carburetor. So, we lined up and I stalled up like usual, but this time my traction wasn't there. Then the truck bogged and he had me off the line. I stayed about at his tailgate the whole way(still spinning). We ran 3 times and they all started and ended the same way. But just today, he came and told me that they noticed my posi wasn't working, but nobody told me about it. I'm glad he told me because I was up all night thinking about it(I could't sleep). I'm gonna throw in a spool since this truck won't see more than 5miles per week. Is it common for the GM posi units to fail? I'm not sure what it came out of, but it didn't come with this truck. Maybe that one nasty launch killed it. I'm gonna get video of the next race and post it for you guys.
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dude, with the factory posi i'm impressed it lasted THIS long. the GM "Gov-Locks" are known to fail...that's why they've earned the name "Gov-Bomb". hopefully it didn't tear your carrier up when it went, they do sometimes...
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I didn't get my posi fixed, but I decided to race my friend again. His cousin loaned me a Holley 950 and it worked really good. The first race, I couldn't hear his horn so I took off late and never caught traction. The rear end seemed to be locking and unlocking and swinging the backside all over. Next race we had someone to flag us off. I took him off the line and ended up beating him by atleast 4 cars(as told by witnesses). The camaraman had to work, so no film this time. My friend's cousin is bringing a 496 El Camino(w/250 shot) down soon, so I'll do my best to get that race on camara(all I'm gonna see is tail-lights though.LOL). Next on my list of things to do is return interior to stock appearance and save up for a detroit locker and 3.90 gears.
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Just an update. I took the truck to the track a few weeks ago even without any tuning and without a posi. I ended up running 12.8@107mph. I met a local track legend and he had a truck similar to mine, but his had a 355 and he ran 12.4's. He gave me some tips on getting my times down. So, I'm in the process of cutting some weight and shifting some weight to the back. I'm also going to install some drag springs up front. I'm throwing a spool in the rearend for now until I can afford a nice posi.
My friend that had the truck like mine also did some upgrades. He got a great deal on a complete 406 setup($1500). It's a 14:1 all forged 406 with brodix aluminum heads and a monster cam and matching intake. It ran a best of 10.5 in a 76 camaro(on a 175shot). The builder estimates the HP around 530. The motor came with the complete ignition system(all aftermarket). I'm thinking my friend should be able to smoke me easily now. I have a cam-only 364 against his completely decked out 406....something's wrong if he can't beat me with that. He wants to race me on the street, but I told him only at the track...I don't want to risk wrecking either of these trucks or getting them impounded. I'll post of some pics of his truck soon and maybe get some video of it. Later guys.
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sweet, not a bad time for not tuning and poor traction.
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It doesn't matter necassarily whos faster, whos more consistent. speed takes money, skill takes the trophy. Thanks for keeping it on the track, it not only keeps people honest, it keeps them alive
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It doesn't matter necassarily whos faster, whos more consistent. speed takes money, skill takes the trophy. Thanks for keeping it on the track, it not only keeps people honest, it keeps them alive
My friend has me beat when it comes to both money and skill. Only thing I can say is I built my truck myself and I researched everything that went into it. I tried to be smart about every aspect of my truck and not just throw money at it and hope it runs good.
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knowledge is power, especially when it saves your pocket power. Keep it up, the tides will change. Been there done that
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wow man, that was a decent time you laid down...i wouldn't be ashamed of that at all!
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yeah, I seemed to have missed that. Very well done. It seems to me you have more skill than you give yourself credit for. Keep it up
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Yeah, I'm happy with the time and I'm anxious to see what it'll run with tuning and traction. I'm taking care of the traction part, but tuning is kinda hard. I don't really understand timing, so I'm going slow with it. I tried carb tuning, but that didn't turn out too good. So I'm kinda just taking little steps until I get it to run like I think it should.
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Update: This project is pretty much finished. I drive the truck as often as I can(3-4 times a week). It's bad on gas, but it looks and sounds good...I love the way people take notice when I come down the street in it. Everybody's always askin me to do burnouts, but I never do...I just cruise by nice and slow with a big grin. I'm planning to take it back to the track real soon. I just recently got my hands on a new project...a 1995 Sonoma. I was gonna leave it a 4banger, but my wife said she'd be cool with a [cammed]LS1 swap. I'm hoping to get that project started soon. Later guys.
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what headers did you use in the end and is the engine is the stock SBC position???
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hey man i would try to grind the hump of
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I used F-body headers, but it takes a bit of work to make them work. The driver side collector points outwards towards the frame. Then one of the tubes hangs down a bit and may contact your lower control arm bolt/shaft. On the passenger side, one of the tubes nearly touches the frame. When I had my first set of standard Carshopinc. motor mounts, I just took a grinder to the parts that needed it. Then later I switched to thicker adapters that had a 1 inch setback and I didn't have anymore clearance issues. But they were a pain to put in initially. Billy over at TRT showed me an awesome set of stock truck manifolds that they did. They were ported and ceramic coated and they looked good like a set of high dollar shorty headers. I think somebody came out with a set of headers that fits our trucks with a LS swap...ask CaptKaos..I believe he tried a set.
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BRP hotrods makes them.
What is Billy up to now?
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I haven't talked to Billy for a while now. I've been keeping an eye out to see what he builds next since he sold his OBS truck with the LS1.
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He closed TRT a while back. Did he open up something else?
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i remember when i tried truck manifolds and no way were they going to fit unless they were pointed towards the radiator for twins.. I used pacesetter headers for the NBS application.. fitment was no bueno. needed lots of tweaking but who can complain the motors not supposed to be in that truck right. I used home made motor mount adapters to accomidate the factory a/c compressor and mounting bracket.
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This is what I have for mine:
http://www.brphotrods.com/1955-1987%20Chevy%20truck.html
Trucks will work, if you grind them. I did that on a set, but won't be using them.
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He closed TRT a while back. Did he open up something else?
I didn't know he closed TRT. I thought he was still working on stuff...I thought I saw a post about him working on somebody's ride and telling somebody else to come by the shop.
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i remember when i tried truck manifolds and no way were they going to fit unless they were pointed towards the radiator for twins.. I used pacesetter headers for the NBS application.. fitment was no bueno. needed lots of tweaking but who can complain the motors not supposed to be in that truck right. I used home made motor mount adapters to accomidate the factory a/c compressor and mounting bracket.
My truck manifolds kinda looked like they would fit if they didn't have the EGR port. I think that's what Billy said he used. Now that I think about it, I think he used truck manifolds on a OBS(88-98) and he told me to try the f-body headers on mine. He also said he was gonna try the Mac mid-length headers since they looked as though they would fit our trucks, but I never checked back with him since the f-body headers fit decent enough. One more thing I think he hinted at was the ZO6 manifolds...but those were too expensive for me to try.
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The numbers I have for him no longer work, my brother called him and he said he was closing up.
http://www.trtturbo.com/ is down too. Where was his post?
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I think it was somewhere on LS1truck in the "for sale" section. Maybe I'm confusing him with someone else.
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I was working on my cam swap today. Everything was going pretty good, then I realized I lined the cam up wrong, so I had to redo that. Then it started raining while I was trying to tighten the rockers. I went in to wait it out and after a few minutes heard a crash. The jackstands under my truck sank into the ground and fell over. My rear wheels and brakes were off, so it was kinda hard to jack it back up, but a got it up a few inches...gonna wait till it's dry before I try again. The rain let up for a few minutes so I ran out there and torqued my rockers and now I'm getting ready to start test fitting the trans/converter. I'm excited about getting my truck running again. I think I have everything to get it running, I just need to get the truck off the ground.
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:o I take it you don't have a hard surface to do this work on?
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Yeah, I'm stuck with a muddy driveway anytime it gets wet out here.
I just completely finished the motor and trans work. They are bolted together and will hopefully be back in the truck soon. Everything is going smooth at this point. I'm just hoping to get my differential installed so I can roll the truck back and forth as needed. My engine hoist doesn't roll in my dirt driveway, so I usually push/pull the truck with my right hand while I control the motor with my left. I was gonna sandblast and paint my headers, but I think I'm just gonna let them rust and then try a set of those one that CaptKaos mentioned.
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The motor and trans are back in. I'm just hoping that I did everything correctly. I'll be super happy if it fires up and the trans works like it should. I would post pics, but it doesn't look any different than before.
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IT RUNS! I did it. I took the motor apart and put it back together and it runs. I can't believe I did that with my own two hands. All the guys around here were telling me to let someone else do my work, or to buy someone else's engine, or to give up all together. It feels good to say I built it while they still can't tell what cam they have in their motor or what jets they have in their carb.
The motor sounds great. The cam is just a step above what I had in there before. The heads are just newer truck heads with better springs put in them. Only thing is, after a few minutes, the truck started to rev lazy and started to run a bit rich. I'm not sure what changed...I'm just gonna sit back and enjoy this small victory/success for a few days before I let the carb stress me out again. I couldn't get my hands on the camera today, but I promise I will get some video of it soon.
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I just measured and ordered the driveshaft. I measured 61.5" from pinion yoke to transmission. If that sounds wrong, somebody please let me know ASAP. I'm sending my trans yoke to them along with the driveshaft yokes so they could determine which ujoints I have. I couldn't find a definate answer and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Hopefully this turns out right, I'm gonna be really mad at myself if I measured wrong and can't use my new driveshaft.
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I've always asked the guy making up the shaft how I should measure it and no problems.
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I used the instructions from Denny's Driveshaft, but I always seem to mess up stuff like this.
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Got my new driveshaft today....time to go get into some trouble. Just kiddin', I'm gonna take it around the block to see if the gears are making any noise and see how the trans shifts now. Hopefully monday I will have my registration for the truck, that way I can take it out to the farm road and do some carb tuning and mess with the timing.
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Awesome ride, man.
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Thanks. I should have the pics uploaded soon. Video will have to wait, since I wired the truck wrong...it doesn't turn off unless I remove the key and the kill switch.
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The video didn't come out right, so we'll have to make another one. The truck ran pretty good today. I jetted down(probably the wrong move). I was gonna put the driveshaft in, but the bolts on my differential yoke are mushroomed and beat to crap. I'm planning to cut a slot in each bolt and unscrew them with a screwdriver. Anybody know the thread pitch on these bolts? Or the part# to get new ones?
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Couldnt tell ya, but if you can save them when you take them out, most hardware stores and auto stores have templates to match them up.
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I'll try that then.
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Got some pics and some video for you guys. My wife has the camera, but she'll be back in a minute and I'll post the pics, we're still trying to figure out how to upload the videos(they're some odd type of file that our computer doesn't read).
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Sorry it's so dirty, we live in a dirty/dusty town.
It needs to be lowered 2 more inches in the front.
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how it sounds.
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Here's one with the new hood. My wife is responsible for the fitting/dzus work...I was gonna be a caveman and run ugly hood pins which probably would have been misaligned and awkward.
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Sounds Good, Nice work so far.
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Yep, sounds good. Sounds cammy too, which cam do you have? It lifts the front end nicely too when he got on it. That's awesome. You have the 1-piece window kit or are they lexan windows that don't roll down anymore?
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I got a 228 cam now. Before I had a 226 cam, lift is about the same. It's a baby cam compared to what some of the guys on LS1tech are running. The windows are Lexan.
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It definitely sounds healthy. Sounds like he revved it higher in 2nd gear, or it lit up and revved higher, than in 1st.
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I told him to short shift 1-2 and wind out 2nd gear to the normal shift point. I'm gonna mess with the pinion angle and swap in my new fuel pump, then we're gonna go do some real runs on the backroads.
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Man! I was so excited to go play with my truck yesterday, but then I went to start it and it won't start. It's acting like the battery is dead or something...I hit the key and the starter just goes klink one time until I let off then you hear the starter release. Usually this truck is super easy to start...several times I started it with a fairly drained battery(too dead to start any of my other trucks). I'm thinking a ground somewhere is bad or something, but I decided to just rip all the wiring out and re-do everything so I know what is where and why some things don't work. I noticed my kill switch doesn't kill the truck, so I just put a rocker switch on the MSD box to kill the ignition system when I want to shut it off. I'm only planning to run a few electical items - ignition, headlights/taillights, e-fans, and fuel pump. Goodness, I hate wiring and electrical stuff...I rarely get it right.
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I drove my truck for the first time since the rebuild. My first impression was not so good. The truck layed an egg(nearly turned off) when I floored it, but I let off and got on it slowly and it picked up and started smoking the tires in all 3 gears. I was a little disappointed, so I parked it for a bit to think about why it ran so poorly. I decided to try another run and this run was much better. I got a little rolling start and then got on it a bit more....tires lit up so I let off...then I hammered it and MAN! it pinned me to my seat and took off. I don't know if I told ya'll about that time my uncle took me for a ride in his 1970 GTO with a 600hp 505ci. That car slammed me back hard in the seat....well my truck had that same feel today. Finally!...I'd been after that "pin you in the seat" feeling since I started this truck project.
I still got some issues to sort out. I don't like the way the trans feels. 3rd gear feels like I'm hitting the brakes. While I was coasting/idling up to a speedbump, I put it in second and it slammed like it was went into park, then I put it in first and slowly made it over the bump. Another thing is that the trans response is delayed. I can put it in reverse, but I have to rev it to get it to engage, same with the forward gears. I'll look into it in the morning.
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Maybe it just had to have it's morning coffee before it got going ;) Smoking the tires in all 3 gears.......nice! Can you usually stomp on it from idle and it just rip? My truck isn't like that at all. It will bog or stumble, etc. All the things I hate about a carb lol Anyway, how is your diff swap working out? No strange noises?
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Yeah, I learned my lesson...this truck is cranky when you just wake it up and jump on it.LOL. I can stomp on it after it's had it's warm up run, but only then. I'm gonna look into it more when I'm not so scared to drive it. Right now it doesn't have headlights or front turn signals so I'm scared of getting a ticket or getting it towed. The diff swap seems to be working out fine. The only troubles I'm having is with the transmission.
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I've been messing with my truck a bit more. It looks like I've been adjusting the accelerator pumps wrong all this time. I readjusted them this time and took it for a drive and it didn't backfire, it just roasted the tires and I went through all 3 gears and probably moved 5 feet(on street tires with caltracs disabled). I've been too afraid to throw the slicks on since we have some picky cops out here lately. With my luck, I'd get 1 year in prison just for having the slicks on.
Anyway, I've been thinking about going to the track to see what it'll run, but I'm a little nervous. A bunch of things are running through my head...stock axles breaking, seat brackets and seatbelts not passing inspection, trans lines coming loose... I may end up going once my trailer gets here...if I can find a ride since I no longer trust my dually. My goal is 10.9, but I'll be satisfied with an 11.2...I know it seems nearly impossible for the combo I have in my truck, but I'm going for it. I've had a lot go wrong for me in the last year and I've given up on plenty of projects and stuff, but I'm aiming high and I'm going for this goal.
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Wow, well that's a lofty goal but with enough money and time, you can do it ;) You want to do low 11s without nitrous? Be prepared though that if you go under 12 seconds, they will want a roll cage. That's an NHRA rule as I recall.
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Yeah...the goal seems kinda "out there", but on the other hand look what's been done with these motors already. There's guys with 5.3's running low 12's and high 11's in much heavier trucks(on motor). I believe my truck weighs 500-1000 pounds less than some of those trucks. Most of those trucks were street driven too while mine is a purpose-built racetruck with no consideration for streetability. I think at this point I have more motor than most of those trucks, so I should have a good shot at low 11's without nitrous. I think my biggest downfall is the tuning. I'm starting to learn more about what things do and how to make them do what I want.
I have another short video that I forgot to post up after I got it running again. You can hear the truck idle. I'll post it up in a minute.
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Click Click Boom
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Nice! Gotta light them tires soon though...
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Thanks. I'll see if I can get a vid of my truck with the street tires on...it's usually a pretty good smoke show when I try to take off with them.
I plan to get some good vids for you guys when March rolls around. I'm taking my truck to the next town for the races at the airstrip. I know of two other squarebody trucks that are gonna be out there too and both of them guys like to put on smoke shows. I'll see if I can get you guys a little preview of the one that's here in town right now.
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Sweet! Keep us updated!
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Here it is. This truck has a 14:1 Brodix headed 406 with a huge cam, TH400 and 4.10 gears. It's should be one bad truck on the track. Me and him have been talking about racing for a little over a year now, but I refuse to street race and we never seem to make it to the track at the same time. This year I'm gonna do whatever I can to help him get his truck ready for the races in March. He's got a lot more motor than me, but I think it'll still be a good race.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f143/team39763/th_MOV00033.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f143/team39763/?action=view¤t=MOV00033.flv)
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Well that race ain't happening. He called me this morning and told me he sold the truck and he wanted to trade me his slicks for my street tires. He traded his 406 for a stockish 350. That sucks!...I really wanted to race him. I wish I would've known he was looking to get rid of that 406, I would have found a 350 to give him.
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Awesome! No power braking at all? That things got power.
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Yeah, that motor pushed a camaro to low 12's on motor and high 10's on a 175shot. Too bad that truck is coming apart. I'll probably get a chance to run against that motor since the guy who's getting it is building an S10 to beat me(actual words from his mouth). LOL. We'll see.
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I put on the slicks and headed out to the backroads to do a few solo runs today. The truck ran good, but the runs were less than impressive. I think I was shifting way too soon and also wasn't getting WOT. I have to admit, I was a little scared to floor it. The driveshaft incident kept playing in the back of my mind(and I don't have a safety loop installed at the moment). I was also warned that since my transmisison case cracked as a result of the driveshaft failure, it could grenade and come through the floor. I did 4 launches and decided to bring it home and park it. After about 30minutes I worked up the nerve to go out there and jump on it hard...but like I said, I don't think I mashed the pedal hard enough. I think I'm ready now though. I'm gonna make a few changes with the carb and the timing, then take it out there and see what it does. I'm too ashamed to post the videos, so I'll take some new ones when I go out there next time.
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Turns out that my shifter/shifter cable were messing me up. The cable was FUBAR'd and the shifter couldn't hit 3rd gear. I'm pretty sure the other gears weren't being hit correctly either. I got a new cable and a few other parts to install in the AM, then I'm gonna try to do some more test runs on the farm road.
**I got my trailer** I'm excited...just need to wire up the brake plug for the brake controller.
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Just another update. I blocked off the front grille and lowered the truck a little more(cut 1 coil of the front springs). So far everybody who's seen the truck has given me a thumbs down and told me they didn't like the overall look of the truck. I agree it could have been cleaner looking, but I don't think it's that bad. A couple years ago I would have chose "form" over "function", but now I'm all about getting the most speed I can out of this thing with the small amount of motor I have.
I think I'm having tie rod issues. Yesterday I took the truck out for a short spin and when I got on the pedal, it was jumping all over the road. My neighbor took a look and said my tie rods are toast. I'm hoping I can fix that before I race.
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Click Click Boom
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It's been a long time since I updated this one. My last track/airstrip visit didn't go so well. I had some fuel troubles(trash in the system) and my hood blew off at the finish line. I've made a bunch of improvements since then and I hope to be deep in the 10's with this last set of mods I'm doing. Hopefully later this year, I'll build a real motor or go big block.
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Here's a recent pic of the truck after this last race event.
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I think it looks cool, and it flat out hauls the way it is now. So was the hood trashed after that?
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The hood is pretty torn up, but it stayed on there pretty good this time.
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Here's a pic after the races at the border. The truck got a little banged up from the wind out there and all the hands helping me push the truck through the pits and up on the trailer after the driveline failure.
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I forgot to post up about the new improvements. In mid March this year I took the trans to be freshened up by a different builder and he told me the case was broke and 3rd gear was almost gone(I could feel it when I raced). We ended up having him build me a new trans. I also installed an annular Demon carburetor. When we went to the track March 20 it ran a little sluggish and had traction problems. I posted a Vid in the "drag racers" thread in the suspension section.
April 3rd we went to a racing event on a street near the border. I got a nice converter from my cousin and it worked great. The truck was still a bit rich cruising through the pits and on the return and I had major traction issues. A few spectators told me that I was spinning for well over 100ft. My first run was 12.1 against a 2011 F150(the kid called me out, so I said sure). Next race was against a LS1 Trans Am with bolt-ons and a 175 shot. I jetted the carb down and lowered the slicks' pressure to 12psi. I ended up running 12.0 to his 12.4. Next race was against a convertible mustang with a 351. They wouldn't tell me much about the motor but I could see it had a dominator,big headers, and a nitrous kit. The winner of this race was supposed to race a 8sec Trans Am(gutted, 402 stroker lots of nitrous) for the "Top Dog" spot. But I had a suspension/driveline malfunction and oiled down the track. Game Over for everybody.
So now we're just waiting for the funds to build another transmission and repair the suspension and driveshaft. I'm still aiming for that 10 second timeslip.