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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: 81Cheyenne on September 01, 2007, 02:46:37 pm
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Hi all,
I have an '81 LWB C10 with a stock 305 4bbl, TH 350, standard rear axle and heavy duty rear springs. What mods would you suggest to make it more suitable for a camper? I would prefer to go with a slide-in but may also wind up with a pull-behind.
thanks,
-Shawn
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Hi all,
I have an '81 LWB C10 with a stock 305 4bbl, TH 350, standard rear axle and heavy duty rear springs. What mods would you suggest to make it more suitable for a camper? I would prefer to go with a slide-in but may also wind up with a pull-behind.
thanks,
-Shawn
Slide in with a 1/2 ton is scary. The newer ones are lighter but stay within the trucks limit. Good shocks and a sway bar up front definately helps. Older heavier ones make the truck feel like it is going to tip over. If you go with a pull behind, make sure if you get one with trailer brakes put a unit on your truck.
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Gotta agree, Slide-in might be a bit heavy. Trick out your topper(lights, blow-up mattress, etc.) and add one of those tents that hooks to the back of it. OR, tow a small trailer.
Guess you could always beef up your suspension but if you are going to go to that trouble, might as well getcha a beefer 3/4 or 1T 4 wheel drive Chevy.
Course then your fuel mileage goes down the hole and you will never come see your brother in WV.
LOL!!
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Got the sway bar. I'll look into the shocks too. What about the springs? Anybody know what the "Heavy Duty" springs are rated for? Will springs from a 3/4 ton fit?
79Apache:As far as I can tell, the Interstate between here and WV is a 2 way road Bro! I'll tie up the dogs and keep the light on for you.
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Got the sway bar. I'll look into the shocks too. What about the springs? Anybody know what the "Heavy Duty" springs are rated for? Will springs from a 3/4 ton fit?
79Apache:As far as I can tell, the Interstate between here and WV is a 2 way road Bro! I'll tie up the dogs and keep the light on for you.
Count your leaf spring stack. I have a healthy stack on my on Suburban parts truck that was added to by a spring place that beefed it up for towing (I have a receipt). You should have a sticker on your door with that info on GVW/GVCW
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Use an air helper spring
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Use an air helper spring
Where can I find out more about that? I don't know what they look like or where to buy them. Anything online that has a pic?
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Use an air helper spring
Where can I find out more about that? I don't know what they look like or where to buy them. Anything online that has a pic?
I got a set of helper leafs from the back end of my 1/2 ton GMC. I think they came from JC Whitney.
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Lotsa places sell them, Summit, just google it. http://www.stengelbros.com/AirLiftApplicationGuideGM.htm#ChevTrk
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Ok, here's what I found:
The sticker on the door says GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR RR
5600/2540 2950 / 1339 3406 / 1545
I have counted a total of 5 leaves on the springs, the 4 top leaves are the same thickness and the bottom leaf is quite a bit thicker. The bottom leaf is a bit shorter also. They measure 51" from bolt to bolt and have what appear to be shackles that lower the frame about 4". Looks like the shackles are a stock part.
I like the ride of what I have but would like to be able to safely handle the weight of the camper. I checked out the link (thanks Vile) and I like the looks of the air helpers. Would these work better for this than going to heavier springs?
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I've put them on trucks carrying a 5th wheel with lots of extra cargo and never had a problem. Personally I would probably go that route also.
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Now that you have ideas on suspension, don't forget your transmission and coolant. If your truck wan't designed for pulling, you cannot overlook the idea of getting a 4 core radiator. And, you MUSt get a transission cooler that mounts in front of the radiator.
Check out what i did for my 79 big 10 (http://www.delbridge.net/install).
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Now that you have ideas on suspension, don't forget your transmission and coolant. If your truck wan't designed for pulling, you cannot overlook the idea of getting a 4 core radiator. And, you MUSt get a transission cooler that mounts in front of the radiator.
Check out what i did for my 79 big 10 (http://www.delbridge.net/install).
Pretty cool site.
Is a TH 350 tranny sufficient for my needs? I have an extra one that I can tinker with. Would I be better off rebuilding and modding this one or just looking for a TH 400?
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The TH350 is a VERY capable transmission, and some might even say its better than a TH400. Tranny cooler would be a MUST on my list.
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I'm also curious about a 700R4. Is this a viable alternative? I like the idea of the overdrive for fuel mileage and a lower 1st gear. Sounds like it might do well with a torqy motor. Would it hold up as well as a TH350 when hauling or pulling?
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The Th400 is the strongest most durable of the pack. The 700R4 and 350 are about the same on the durability scale. Heavy towing in overdrive is not recommended but havinig overdrive is nice especially if you have 3.73's or (numerically) higher. Either will require upating and modifications and as someone else mentioned the use of an auxiliary oil cooler
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Personally, I've never seen a 700r4 hold up to anything better than a stock 4.3 for more than 100k miles..I've got a dissassembled th350c in my garage that was only retired because the pump died @ 277k miles, and took the converter with it.
Use an external cooler no matter what you go with..a 4 core radiator is also a wise choice. Connect the external cooler in series with the trans cooler built into the radiator..run it through the external cooler first, then the radiator. This is especially wise in areas that see cold weather. Use of an external cooler and regular fluid changes will greatly extend the life of ANY transmission. If you've got money to burn, a good aftermarket overdrive can be used to give you the strength of a 350 or 400, with the improved mileage of OD. Gear Vendors makes a pretty good overdrive.
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For less than $250 bucks you can make the 700R4 very durable. I built one 6 years ago that sits behind my buddies 84 K5 with a 454. He tows, burns tire, and daily drives with it. 700R4 upgrades are really simple. Sunshell, pump & vane upgrade for older units, PR & TV boost, Servo, Shift improver etc... I've built so many 700R4's I've lost count. I'm doing a 4L60E now and a 700R4 that will both be strong and reliable. they got a bad rap from early model units not being able to take much abuse but with the proper treatment they're a better alternative to the 350.
As far as the oil cooler goes an auxiliary cooler should be installed AFTER the radiator cooler on the return side. So connect to the top outlet at the radiator and then go into the aux cooler and back to the trans. The only time you would want to install it b4 the rad cooler would be EXTREMELY cold climates. Trust me on this I am an ATRA R&R, Rebuilder, Diagnostician & Proctor.
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Zambonie has it right. The EARLY 700R4's had alot of issues, but can be overcome by any good tranny shop. Later 700's, and 4L60e's have proven themselves excellently. Either way, the TH400 is the stoutest brute of the bunch, and the TH350 can be beefed up to compare with the 400. Unfortunately alot of shops will cut corners with the 700r4's ($$$). A TH400/350 can be beefed for alot less money (often still a cost benefit in thier favour if total replacement is happening).
Personally, if it were me I'd look for a more appropriate rig (3/4 ton/1 ton) that's meant to do this.
A rig that can be made to do something, and a rig that was meant to do something are two things that are different.
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I may have to consider building an r4 to go with the 350 I'm rebuilding for my truck then..I had planned on rebuilding my th350 when the time to swap came anyway..though I'll need to get a manual to guide myself around the r4..About how much longer does it take to build/rebuild a 700r4 compared to a th350? I can tear down and rebuild a 350 on the bench in about 6-10 hours, if I've had the new clutches soaking in fluid overnight and don't run into any problems..like finding out my clutch press, snap ring pliers, and torque wrench have been ganked. >:(
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Well you just named basically all the tools you'll need with the exception of the seal installer for the low reverse clutch piston. I use a plastic sheet of paper, rollit into a cylindrical shape and put scotch tape on it. Buy the ATSG book and you'll be glad you did.
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=atsg+700r4&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf