73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: JJSZABO on September 17, 2007, 07:49:12 am
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Ok Guys,
I started looking at the process of restoring the fleetside short bed on this 86 C-10 project. I need many parts and was wondering what is the "tail pan complete assembly" offered in the catalog? I know I need a new tail pan piece but was wondering what the complete assembly was. There was nor picture in the catalog.
Sorry for the stupid question - I have an idea what it is. I am trying to determine if this bed is worth fixing or should I try to find a replacement bed. I'll post some picture shortly.
Thanks for looking,
Jeff
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Lets see some pics to see how bad it is.
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Ok - Here are some pics of the bed (I had to wait till I got home to get the pictures)
Here is the bed front many dents and dings:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001166.jpg)
Bed side - passanger with small holes above wheel well:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001167.jpg)
Rear pan with many rust holes:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001170.jpg)
The bed floor - dents and waves:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001171.jpg)
other photos:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001169.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001172.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001168.jpg)
Buckets and buckets of body filler used inside the wheel wells. I could rebuild her, but it would take alot of panels and many hours of work. What do you all think? Is she worth it?
Does anyone know where I can get a short bed - fleetside or stepside - that is within 150 miles of Frederick, Maryland?
Thanks for the help...
Jeff
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I'd be looking for a southern bed. If there's buckets of bondo inside the well wells, there's probably a bunch of bondo and rust under the paint as well. :'(
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Looks as if I am going to try and salvage the bed. I've got more time than money. Beds are just too far away for me to economicaly get one. So here goes.........
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Dang, I know I posted an answer on this, but the complete tailpan means it isn't just the outer portion.
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If you gotta save it, you should take it all apart and it will be much easier to patch up.
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Should I have it mounted on the truck when I take it apart?
I plan on taking it apart and getting rid of all the filler so I know exactly what replacement panels I need. I know for sure I need the front panel and the complete tail pan assembly for starters (thanks Chris). I will start this process this weekend.
If I work on the bed off the truck, I could mount it to a sub frame of wood to try and keep it square - what do you think?
Jeff
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Thats in good shape compared to some I have saved! Why do you want to replace the front panel? It looks pretty solid to me. You don't need to mount the bed to anything to take it apart. As far as bolting it together you could leave the front panel to the side panel bolts a bit loose for a little adjustment to match the cab. As far as the bottom to side bolts there is really no adjustment. As for your rear crossmember I would cut out the couple bad spots, sand blast it inside and out, and weld some patches in. Your quarters do look a bit shabby. Allot less work but more $ to just replace them. Haven't priced any out recently but last time I did they were going for about $400 to $600 each for after market ones.
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Thanks for the encouragment Blazin ;D
I want to replaceme the front panel because of all the dents in it. Maybe i'll hammer and dolley the dents and see how it goes (I am still learning this part). Thanks for the advice on the rear crossmember -that should save money. When you talk about quarters, I am assuming you mean the rear quarters? Wouldn't these panels work:
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=0850-133-1341&Category_Code=7387Beds
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Oh I see you want a show truck!
I am into trucks that work so dents and dings inside a bed just give it character as far as I am concerned.
Yes those panels will work but you will need to get the ones for in front of the wheel and over the arch as well. You are looking at three panels per side $200 to $300 in patch panels give or take, plus allot of welding and a whole lot of body work on top of the patching you need to do on the rear cross member. Plus if the outside above the wheel is rusty I would put money on it that the inner arch is shot too. I would take the money you plan on spending on a new front panel, live with a few dings in it and put it toward some new rear quarters.
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ROFLMAO :D
Thanks for bringing me back to reality!!!!
Dang perfectionist in me - You are totally right.
I agree with the patch panels needed - that's why I asked the original question. I feel now, that it would be cheaper to spend 300 for patch panels than spend 300-1000 for bed and 100-200 dollars in gas picking it up (driving a Ford Expedition towing trailer - 10 to 12 MPG, 97 octane because of the program in it - $$$$)
I am glad I am on this site - reality check time!!!
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You could always spray a liner in the bed to cover up the dents inside.
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Yes - that's the way I am leaning. I am using SPI (Southern Poly Inc) paint and wanted to try their bed liner. Good time to use it.
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Or you could buy two new quarters, have them shipped to you, no gas needed! Bolt them on.
What are you getting for them Chris?
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Quarters or whole bed sides?
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Tomato Tomato!! Bed sides, thats what I call bed sides, quarters.
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Gotcha :D :D :D
Chris do you carry bedsides (quarters)?
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Negative on the bedsides. To many returns from shipping them. I would look for them locally.
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Who makes the best aftermarket bedsides? My first option is to try and find some good used GM ones but I'm not having any luck in the Kansas City area.
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HAVE YOU TRIED WWW. competitor.COM ? ;)
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Keystone sells them also
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I've looked at the ones and Classic Parts sells and they are made overseas and I don't like the quality from what I saw. I have the advantage of living within 10 miles from both of them. The spot welds on the top of the rails and the opening around the taillights are not that great and if you run your hand along the bottom of the bed rail you will slice your hand right open because the metal is so thin and not curled over. I am actually rebuilding my whole bed so if anybody has or knows of somebody that has a whole short fleet 73-80 bed in the midwest I'm interested.
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There is a Keystone parts store in MD, check with them.
AJ, no one is making bedsides stateside, all of it comes from overseas.
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I know no one is making them stateside besides fiberglass ones from US Body. I was asking what is the best brand of aftermarket bedsides or if anybody knew of any good used ones available.
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I will not buy panels from . The last time I did - I had to return due to shipping damage. I order my panels from Chris - here on this site. Good quality panels, no damage in shipping, and supports this site. If I cannot find bed sides from a local bone yard then I'll fix with patch panels.
My (adult) votech, autobody instructor, can get keystone panels with no shipping charges - I'll check with him for bedsides - I'll see him this Tuesday evening.
Thanks for all the help.......
Will post pictures as the repair progresses.
Jeff
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And I certainly appreciate it Jeff. Let us know on the bedsides.
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I deal with a company called Empire Automotive out of Mass. They deliver right to me. I don't know if they are just New England or if they have stores all across the country.
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You should find someone that specializes in sheet metal work and have them make some patch panels. Or you could always try and make a bed out of plywood :P
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You can buy the patch panels. Problem is it take huge body work to make them invisible when its painted.
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I have a shot at an undamaged 61/2 foot stepside bed. I will contact the company. I'll let you all know.
I was hoping to find a stepside bed - I like the sporty look on a short frame.
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Bed was sold last Friday. :(
I called Keystone about whole bedsides, they claim they don't carry them - is this true??? I have never dealt with them before.
Starting to get very frustrated........ Yesterday while putting on the throttle cable, I broke the transmission kickdown switch on the gas pedal >:( then right after that I broke the plastic piece on the very same cable that attaches to the gas pedal. :o
I cannot get the right accelerator cable for the dang thing. I've tried the ones at auto zone, advance and NAPA - ALL TOO LONG!!!! THe one I broke yesterday was a universal one that I cut myself - everything worked except the instructions said to add 2 inches to my measurement and that made it toooooo long AGAIN!!!! I was trying to take the slack out of the cable when snap goes the parts......
It's raining in my life right now!!!!!
Thanks for letting me rant - now back to fixing the bed?
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There is a kickdown switch on the gas pedal? My truck doesn't kick down worth beans and I"d like to fix that. (350 w/ TH350)
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The switch near the gas pedal is only for th400. The th400 has an electric solenoid used to downshift, th350 and 700r4 do not.