73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 79SHORTWIDE on October 30, 2007, 09:51:55 pm
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(http://i7.tinypic.com/6g12xkw.jpg)
(http://i3.tinypic.com/4mv5z09.jpg)
Just purchased the Russell Pro Flex carb line and hose. Had to be black and silver to match the rest of the engine. Bought the small CHEVROLET air cleaner but it's gotta go--too small.
Just thought I'd share some slow progress.
Next is a GMPP aluminum water pump (reverse flow since I'm running a serp belt system from a 91 Z-28.). Thinking of chroming the o.e
pulleys since the front of the engine has alot of black. Gotta add a spacer for the carb to clear the booster nipple on the back of the intake etc etc etc.
Thanx for looking.
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thats purdy ;D
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THANX!
I'm taking donations ;D
Dollars, twenty's, anything helps.
Not homeless-just need help!
LOL
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Engine looks nice. Hope yer painting that firewall though :o
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Very sharp. I like those valve covers. What did you pay for those? The local speed shop has some as well, but I'm always looking for a good deal.
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I got them 6-8 months ago from JEGS. I think they were $115.00 but they may have gone up.
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WOW!! That is so beautiful! Makes me want one like that sooo bad!
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Is that sarcasm? LOL.
I'm just really anal about making this truck look as nice as I can afford.
I woulda loved to put a 572/620 horse motor in it but that's way out of my budget. I should have the GMPP aluminum water pump this week. Then it's starter, alt, p/s pump and distributor, tensioner and belt. STILL waiting to sell my other (new) headers and get the Chevelle style (ceramic).
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no not sarcasm. it really is awesome. I love how clean and simple it is, it's the oposite of my 305 which is ugly and busy. Is it a crate engine or you put it together piece by piece?
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Thanks for the compliment. I built it to look clean and simple. I hate the clutterd look and wanted to stick with the black, gray, silver look. Once the serpentine system is installed, it won't be as uncluttered but it'll still be simple and clean looking.
No, it's not a crate. I chose every piece of that engine personally and spent 4 saturdays porting and polishing the heads. There is alot of machine work in it. There's more info on it elsewhere on the site if you're interested. The 3 "old time" machinists who did some of the machine work figure it'll make an easy 400 horses. As for all the time and money in the heads--it NORMALLY doesn't pay to put that much into cast iron heads, but, these are 041X heads (very rare) and they were given to me. Otherwise it would've been more cost effective to just buy aluminum. I used to work for an auto parts store that had a machine shop otherwise this particular engine would not be done yet and i'd have paid A LOT more for it.
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Beautiful set up :o
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Thanx again for the compliments !
Just FYI; for those who run a Holley carb and have a clearance issue (under the back bowl) for the 90 degree fitting to run you brake booster hose........
obviously you can run the ole 1 inch spacer available from almost any parts store, but, using that as a solution can actually raise your rpm range--slightly reducing low end torque.
I had a buddy that works at a machine shop mill a spacer down to 1/2 inch thick. It clears the fitting and looks a little better (in my opinion).
(http://i6.tinypic.com/852lvns.jpg)
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I thought the longer the intake and more backpressure the more torque you make (obviously with-in reason though, not to much of either)?
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That's why many manufacturers have gone to variable intake geomtery. Lower RPM torque is increased with the longer runners howver the shorter ruuners help promote high RPM runners
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Good looking set up! I agree with Vile on painting that firewall. Do everything you can to make that engine bay look good! I did a motor swap and put a sweet setup in my 78 K20 and didnt do anything to the engine bay and regret it now, talk about a diamond in the rough! It is a pain keeping everything clean. Call me crazy, but I even wax my valve covers and air cleaner...its a sickness.
BTW, what makes a motor a 355 ci? Is it because its bored .30 or .40 over...?
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That's why many manufacturers have gone to variable intake geomtery. Lower RPM torque is increased with the longer runners howver the shorter ruuners help promote high RPM runners
That's why my Mazda has that on it. It works really well too.
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yes the increase in displacement comes from the increased bore diameter.
To calculate displacement you can use this formula :
1/2 bore dia squared X Pi X stroke X the # of cylinders = CID
example
4.25" bore divided by 2 to the second power is 2.125 x 2.125 = 4.515625 x 3.14 = 14.179062 x 4" stroke = 56.716248 x 8 cylinders = 453.72998 CID (454)
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My cab is only sitting on the frame to conserve garage space. The firewall will be painted along with the rest of the truck--eventually. No part of the truck will go untouched--it has to all look as perfect as I can make it. I'm thinking of a two tone paint combo...possibly black and silver or gray. I think it'll be a pain is the a** to split the line and continue the color difference into the cab, door jambs and firewall but I think it'll show alot more attention to detail. Someday!
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79Shortwide, sounds like your on the right track. Wish I had second rig to take mine down and give it the attention it so badly needs and deserves.
Thanks Vile, that long equation helps. Now all I need to do is find my bore and stroke.
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78SCOTTSDALEK20,
Is yours a 350? If it is, stock bore is 4inch and the stroke is 3.48. If it's been bored 30 over, it'd be 4.030 x 3.48.
Like I said in a previous post, I bought mine INTENDING to drive it/fix it up as a daily driver. The more I kept trying to fix the previous owners rig work, i said the he** with it and found a $600.00 Ranger to drive while working on my 79. Drove that little Ranger a year and sold it for $2000.00 ! Time, space and money are all that hold us back right ? If we only had more of all three.....Good luck on yours!
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Yeah its a 350 that has been bored .30 over. So if I do the equation right, it would go something like this...(and the stock bore is 4 and stroke is 3.48)
Stock Bore 4 bored .30 over= 4.030
Stock Stroke 3.48
1/2 Bore dia. 2.015x2.015=4.060225x3.14=12.7491065x4.030=51.378899195x8=411.03119356
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1/2 Bore Squared x Pie x Stroke x # cylinders = ci
Seems like the cubic inch is a little high. :o
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You did your math wrong:
1/2 bore 4.03 = 2.015
squared is 2.015x2.015 = 4.060225
X pi 4.060225 x 3.14 = 12.749106
x stroke 12.749106 x 3.48 = 44.366888
x # of cylinders 44.366888 x 8 = 354.9351 (355)
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Thanks Vile...I didnt think that was right, too high. I did the math on the computer calculator...dang computer and dial up connection ::)
Anyways, I'll have to do what you mentioned on a thread in the performance section with a compression test. I have a bulldog comp tester. Can you do a leak down test with a comp tester? How accurate is the comp test without the battery beign charged...no bat charger at home.
Thanks
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Make sure the battery is fully charged and remove the surface charge before you begin. You cannot do an accurate leakdown with a compression gauge but don't worry about that unless you have low compression.