73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: JJSZABO on November 05, 2007, 09:10:42 am
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It's starting to take shape. 86 Chevy C-10. Viper blue (putting on clear tonight)
Before:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001154.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001163.jpg)
After:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001180.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001179.jpg)
Thanks for looking.
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LOOKING REALLY GOOD! It gives me hope for the future.
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Nice shad of blue.
Looks good.
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I love that blue. It looks awesome!
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Thanks guys. The metalics really pop when the light hits it. It looks like a solid color in the shade.
The clear really turned out great - upload more pictures when the cab is done.
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Have you painted before?
I'm not far enough along in my body/paint work to start researching which primer, paint etc.
What did you use?
I'm more of a mechanical guy that is self taught on the welding 'cause I don't want to pay $$$$$$$$ for something I can figure out.
The welding went pretty good. Next is prep for primer. ETC ETC ETC. never enough time.
I want my truck DONE by late July 08 for TEXAS HEAT WAVE but I know I'm really pushing it.
Good luck on yours.
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looks great! Good Job!
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No, I never painted before. I've taken an adult automotive painting class at our local Votech. I learned to spray PPG Deltron products, but what I am spraying now is SPI (Southern Polyurethane products). I am spraying SPI because of the high quality and low price (no flames please - just my opinion).
I started by sanding the existing finish with 80 grit then 180 grit then 320 grit. Completed all body work (body filler is over bare metal and 80 grit sand scratches) then sanded the body filler to 320 grit. Sprayed two coats of SPI epoxy primer, let set overnight, then two coats of 2K gray primer, block sanded flat to 500 grit(SPI 2k primer does not need a sealer) then sprayed two coats of viper blue, waited over night and sprayed two more coats for complete coverage then let that sit overnight and tonight I sprayed three coats of SPI universal clear. I just noticed that I have alot of trash in the horizontal parts of the door jambs - looks like I need to color sand then buff. Color looks great though.
I am by no means a body man - I am also more mechanically inclined. I have learned alot from the people on this board and the SPI board. Please don't think I am trying to advertise for SPI but I do like their products and it was cheaper than PPG. I also liked the PPG Deltron product line. Those are all I have sprayed.
Read, ask questions, then read some more and then go and spray. If you have any questions find the board that supports the product and ask questions - I love this stuff.
I am pushing to have this truck done by the end of the year.
Good luck.
Jeff
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Looking good! More pics.......................... :o
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Looks great. I know a few guys that say they do body work and paint and have been for a few years, that don't have results like that.
As far as your trash in the paint. If you are letting your base flash over night it might be helpful to use a scuff pad on it before you clear. I clear within an hour or so, but have waited over night before. Also the blow gun is your friend. I have been known to blow of and out of all the nooks and crannies for several hours before final wash and tack cloth step. I prefer a blow gun with a 24" tube on it. i stuff that sucker in every crevice I can find the full depth.
I did an 87 Elcamino Viper blue and a GM purple faded into each other at about mid point up on the sides of the car. Its called purple but looks like charcol except in the twilight hours. Then it has a heavy purple hue to it.
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Thanks Guys :)
Thanks for the advice Blazin - I did not do that.
Between the second and third coat of base I tacked off and I also tacked off before clear. I was afraid to blow off the cab because I didn't want to kick up to much dust to have it settle in the finish. I am spraying in a small confined area so dust is an issue. The cab and bed will be the largest parts I'll spray.
I think I got the trash after I left the makeshift booth to mix more clear and I ended up releasing dust or overspray attached to the walls. The trash is only on the horizontal surface of the door jambs. The vertical parts are smooth.
I suppose I can sand out the trash with 1500 grit and buff the area to a shine - or should I spray another coat of clear after sanding?
I have to admit that I was fighting my spray guns. I am using a cheap set of ATD 6900 guns. I started having problems right after I painted my first few parts. After I cleaned the 1.8 tip gun, it would sputter when it sprayed. Then my 1.4 tip gun started doing the same thing. The comon factor with both guns was it started after I cleaned them, sooo....... a little research and I finally figured out I was not tightening the "nozzle" enough (sorry, have not learned the part names yet). Also the "air cap" was not tightened enough. Once I fixed those problems, the guns started to spray GREAT. My first coat of color looked like crap. I had to sand out runs and reshoot. I am learning though.
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The first few times are always a learning curve when doing paint and body work. But it looks very good, I didn't notice the trash the first look I took but now I see it, just hit it up with that 1500, and then buff it out, bor if you really want to spray it do that. But aparently Blazin had Micrscopic vision, cause I didn't even notice that.
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I didn't notice it either, I took his word for it that it was there!
1500 grit will work, but I do a final sand with 2000 grit after the 1500 when I buff it. If you want to respray the clear I would use 800 or 1000 grit. Just be carfull not to break through to the color if you are only buffing it. I like 3M micro finishing compound, then a machine glaze / polish. Car Craft makes a good one. Can't remember the number but its a mint green color.
As for blowing it off I meant before you start to paint it. I tend to spend a few hours blowing it off / out.
I also spend allot of time during the process of doing all the work blowing it off / out. After sand blast, etc. Basically anytime I have the blow gun in my hand to clear the area I am working on, I will go over the whole rig real good one sometimes more times.
As far as your spray area, I have always had better luck the bigger the shop / room the better the results.
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Now I know why body shops get so much for this work. I think I done a lifetime worth of sanding in one week - and this was just the cab. I still have the fenders, hood, doors and bed to do - WHEW!! :'(
And did I mention - sandpaper is expensive. I try to find it on the net and buy in bulk. 9.95$ at NAPA for wet/dry 1500 grit (FOR ONLY 5 SHEETS). 80 grit, 180 grit, 320 grit, 500 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit - grits to fit my DA, grits to fit my durablocks, grits to fit.............
Whew - I am getting tired.
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You can get 400-2000 grit wet or dry at wal-mart in the larger sheets for ~$4 for 5 sheets...
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Yeah Jeff. Lookin good. Aren't you going to paint the firewall and floor the same color blue?
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The firewall is painted black. I am painting the engine compartment black. The floor is a money saving thing. The viper blue paint is 176.00 per gallon and I figure since the floor is covered in carpeting, I would just leave it in epoxy. I did the same for the roof interior - it is getting a headliner. I just painted around the perimeter.
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that looks really darn good! i figured you were installing carpeting and a headliner when i saw you left the majority of the floor/roof in epoxy...looks really good though!
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JJSZABO,
I think you should come down to Austin, Tx. and help me do mine. My wife is a great cook. We'll feed you well. :)
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79SHORTWIDE
Your too kind. Trust me when I say if I can do it, you can too. I would like to visit Texas - never been there.
Good luck and if you have any questions, this board is a great place to ask.
I'll be posting some more pictures of the cab - just finished with color and will be clearing tomarrow.
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I have driven by the Caddilac Ranch!
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Update - finished the cab with clear:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001184.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001183.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001182.jpg)
Now to start on the front fenders..........
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whoo-who Progress!! Keep up updated. Looks great so far.
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Nice! ;) ;)
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beautiful progress man!!
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Ok, JJSZABO,
How about manicotti or lasagna ? My wife makes killer homemade of both !
You've always wanted to come to Austin.....you know it! :D
Besides, I'm SURE it's MUCH colder in Md. than here. Gonna be 75 tomorrow !
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79:
I love them both - I am half italian and grew up on homemade sauce. mmmm manicotti :'( :'( :'(
Let's see Maryland @ 48 degrees for a high or Austin @ 75 hmmmmm......
Seriously, you will do fine. Can you take a coarse at your local VOTECH? Blazin has helped me considerably on this board. Just ask questions before you begin and practice on a scrape hood or fender. Also go to www.autobodystore.com and research their forum on body work and painting - very informative!!
I use a "cheap" set of guns - this is the set I use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-Pc-ATD-HVLP-Spray-Gun-Set-Touch-Up-Primer-Topcoat_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQihZ006QQitemZ160180652187QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Not the best set but does a nice job. Use the primer gun 1.8mm tip gun just for your epoxy primer and 2k surfacer and use the 1.4mm tip gun just for color and clear. The little 1.0mm detail is great for repair areas ( I should know, I've had to use it to fix some mistakes)
I broke my detail gun tonight - I had my air pressure up to high and damaged the dang air seal.....
Let me know if you need a write up on how to paint - I am no where close to being a professional, but I could write up what I know and learned.
Thanks for the invite though,
Jeff
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JJSZABO,
I appreciate the polite refusal to my invitation of hard work for food but I understand. ;D I too am half italian and grew up on the homemade stuff. Originally from Pittsburgh, Pa. All kinds of italians and Czechs.
Thanks for the info and offering to help. Once I get a little farther along I'll be buggin you!
Each week (when I'm lucky), I buy what I can afford and do little by little. You know the drill I'm sure.
I can probably take a course at our local community college...my biggest issue is my work schedule. I'm a parts manager at a dealership and put in a minimum of 55 hours a week. But, maybe....
Next week I am taking some guys from our body shop to lunch as a get to know you type thing and get our businesses working together so HOPEFULLY I'll develope a relationship with someone there that may help out when I'm ready. Blah blah blah.
Anyway, keep up with the great work and posting the pics.
Any relationship to Joe Szabo here in Austin? he's a machinist at an auto parts store. Good ole guy from Hungary.
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From Pittsburgh? So am I :o
I moved to Maryland in the early 80's to go to the Univ. of Maryland and never left (but I went to the Univ. of Pittsburgh my freshman year)
I grewup in the Greensburg/Latrobe area. My real last name is Sabol but our name was changed when my Greatgrandfather got married in the States. His name on the boat from Poland was Szabo then it was changed on his marrage certificate to Sabol (never found out why).
Boy what a small world - I am half Italian and half Polish just like everyone else from that area. Do you miss it? What took you to Texas? Wow, small world......
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It is a small world. I only miss Pittsburgh (actually Coraopolis is where I lived most) when the weather was nice. I don't miss the cold at all. I left Pa. in 11/89 for Oceanside, Ca., got married, moved to Austin in 91 for a better cost of living with good weather. Well, it's now gotten alot more expensive to live but still better than So-Cal. I think a girl I knew from Moon High School--Jackie--her last name was Sabol. Any relation? That's going back a couple decades! Memory may be slipping. If you get to Austin sometime, look me up.
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Geez you guys might be long lost brothers or something.. JJSZABO, you'd think your kinfolk wouldn't make ya work so hard if you just drop in for a few days..
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Dang, I need to get on here more often!
Truck looks great, can't wait to see it all assembled! :)
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And did I mention - sandpaper is expensive. I try to find it on the net and buy in bulk. 9.95$ at NAPA for wet/dry 1500 grit (FOR ONLY 5 SHEETS). 80 grit, 180 grit, 320 grit, 500 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit - grits to fit my DA, grits to fit my durablocks, grits to fit.............
Dang... that sure is expensive! I buy my sandpaper at o'reily- (paints dept.) real paint department ---- not the paint isle for a way cheaper price..... do you have oreily paint shop locally.
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No, I don't have an O'reily's close by. I do have enough sand paper to finish the job....hopefully :) It was expensive.