73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 85MudMonster on November 20, 2007, 05:39:18 pm
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okay, my 85 K10 has dual tanks on it and the switch wasn't working so, I swapped out the solenoid valve that controls it, and now it is switched over to the opposite tank, which has old gas in it but I was told that that gas has stabil in it so it should be good, the truck still won't switch, so I can't get it to switch back over to the other tank that I know has good gas in it. I hope this is making sense I'm kinda pissed off as I'm typing this. Anyway, How do I get the obviously bad gas in that tank out of there, and how do i get it out of the engine so that this thing will start again? Thanks.
Dan
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this same problem had my truck when i bought it 9 years ago.. i had to remove the tank and..... ???man that thing was nasty! it had a 4 inch build up of something, smelled like rotten coffee, and had to scrape all that sh*& off which made my hands smell like that crap for almost a week..... sick!(flashbacks)
i recommend removing the tank and check it out! and if you do not need it, NEVER USE IT. (I don't)
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I was thinking about going a different route with this gas tank thing anyway. I like having 32 gallons of gas especially since this truck gets like 10mpg, but I was thinking about getting a 32 gallon fuel cell from summit...but i think for now, I'll have to by-pass that switching solenoid, and run it off the tank I know is good. Although now I won't know how much gas it's got since that gas gauge is reading the full level of the bad tank.
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How about a siphon? Put it in the lawn mower, or the boat a little at a time next year. Anyway, get as much out as you can, put in 5 gal of good, then diconnect the fuel line at the carb and turn the engine over until the good gas comes out. Put it back together and pump the gas a little, let it evaporate and then crank it.
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I'm kind of afraid that the bad gas may have messed up the engine, this seems like how my oldsmobile's problems started, now that thing is sitting there rusting to pieces, and I threw money at it like money grew on trees, I don't want that to happen to this truck, I'd like to stick a new engine in it, but I'm not ready for that yet, so I'm hoping it didn't mess anything up trying to start it like that, I even tried putting some good gas in the carb, and sprayed some carb cleaner in there too, just in case, but all it does is sit there and crank and crank and crank, and on sunday before I replaced the fuel tank solenoid valve, and it was using the other tank it started fine...
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i think you'll be ok as far as the motor goes. a little bad gas (a LITTLE) won't kill a motor. and if it does, that motor was dead anyway. you need to figure out what part isn't switching over. if it's the switch itself, look up a wiring schematic and jump that sucker from the plug. if it's the solenoid (again), then just throw another one on it just to get it switched back over and right (or just take that one back, if it was new it should have some sort of warranty...although it might not because it's electrical).
if you wanna get the bad gas out there are a few ways you can go about it. you could remove the tank...but that's a lot like work. you could also siphon it out (it will be a pain, but you can), or you can do what i've done in a pinch (long story, don't feel like typing it all out)...it's not recommended but it will work fine. get some of that fuel tank repair putty (that stuff sets up like concrete) and then carefully drill a small hole in the bottom of the tank. let it drain and then "repair" the hole. yea, i know it sounds shady, but by God it works. and that repair stuff (the grey Permatex stuff) works darn good...
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there is no way it is that solenoid, and I really don't want to take that thing off again it was a pain in the :(. The only thing left is the wiring or the switch, which is also new...so i'm thinking it is the wiring which means it's time to pin some wires and see if there's a short or an open in the circuit somewhere. BTW, will the 31 gallon rear mount tank off the K5 Blazers fit onto a K10 pickup?
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yep, sure will...with some modification. check out this article...directly from our very own Capt. Kaos!!
Blazer Tank Into Pickup<---CLICK ME! (http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/blazertank.html)
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If everything checks out at the wiring, just pull the switch apart and clean it. That is what I did to mine...
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6537.0
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Do you think the switch could be bad it's only like 3 months old? I was thinking that the wiring is not checking out somewhere, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check the switch too. Well, I'm visiting family now so I'll have to check it all out next week some time. I was thinking that maybe there isn't even any power coming into the circuit, because of where the power wire is supposed to be connected in at, as well as the fact that it's an in-line fuse somewhere so the fuse could be blown but since it's not in the fuse box I can't see it...anyway gotta go, I'll let you guys know what I find.
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I don't know the history, but if the switch is new, i would suspect the wiring.
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Bad Ignition Module. ::)
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hahahaaaaa..... glad you found the problem! it was not even close to the gas tanks. lol.
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Geez , ya never know. But hang in there. I ve been wrong so many times trying to help diagnose stuff from the couch that I automaticallu duck every time I post. :D
So what are you going to do about the bad gas? Keep us posted.
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I wanted to add- a gas tank can be cleaned out with hot soapy water after it's emptied. You can also have them cleaned at a radiator repair shop.
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no the gas was actually good. I thought it was bad cause that was the only thing I changed, but it just happened to be the Ignition modules time to die, so it went, which is usually how they go (without warning). There was also a green wire that went into the module spliced to the black one, which I'm guessing was someone's atempt to ground out the ESC signal and keep the ESC from retarding the timing in case of a knock, which is stupid and not how it's supposed to be done. Anyway, she is good and is up and running now. This weekend I have to replace the driver side valve cover gasket, the old cork one is leaking, so in goes a new rubber one. And I've got to fix an exhaust leak where the collector bolts to the exhust system, I believe it's the flange so I got a new one, and then the truck should probably run almost as good as she did when she was new. Not to mention that her fuel economy will probably be back up around 15mpg or so, like it should be with that little 305.
BTW, has anyone ever used that Engine Restore stuff, comes in like the silver can, with the old style pop top on it? Is that stuff any good? Does it do what it is advertised to do?
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Seemed to help mine a little, but the motor was pretty decent to begin with, just been sitting a while.