73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Mike Phillips on January 20, 2008, 09:44:27 pm
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Anyone ever switch a 4 speed Blazer over to an automatic?
This would be removing a four speed transmission (SM465) with granny low hooked up to a NP205 transfercase and replacing it with either a Turbo 400 or a Turbo 350, whichever would be the best fit/mate.
Mike
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Either will fit the motor. The TH400 would be stronger. The output shaft would have to be a match to the T-case. If I remember right the manual has different splines than what was offered in the autos.
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I just did a similar swap except I went to a 700R4. Your NP205 has a 10 spline input shaft , so you would need to install a 10 spline output shaft on the tranny. Keep in mind though to swap to a TH400 the TCase has to be machined to account for the larger bearings on the input shaft, but a Th350 with the right output shaft and adapter would bolt right up.
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Have you thought about a 700R4/NP208 swap?
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I just did a similar swap except I went to a 700R4. Your NP205 has a 10 spline input shaft , so you would need to install a 10 spline output shaft on the tranny. Keep in mind though to swap to a TH400 the TCase has to be machined to account for the larger bearings on the input shaft, but a Th350 with the right output shaft and adapter would bolt right up.
I don't want this project to get complicated so I'd prefer to go the route that is completely bolt up. I don't actually plan on doing much 4x4 stuff, especially rough stuff, mostly just a daily driver so Turbo 350 should be fine.
I did a normal tranny swap on my Milk Truck when I had it going from a Turbo 350 that completely gave up the ghost to a Turbo 400 and for that all I had to do was move the tranny crossmember mount about an inch and have the driveline cut and lengthened or shortened, don't remember now.
(http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2MilkTruck.jpg)
;D
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Another question...
Since the truck has a floor shifter, thus no column shifter, I could either R&R the column and replace with a column mounted shifter for an automatic or install a floor shifter.
The floor shifter sounds like a much easier way to go, perhaps a B&M or even a Lokar shifter.
Opinions? Recommendations? Suggestions?
Here's one of my favorite trucks... sold it a few years ago...
1971 3/4 Ton Chevrolet 4-Wheel Drive
396 Big Block Chevy - Big cam, 750 Holly Double Pumper, 2" Diameter Headers
Turbo 400 Automatic Transmission Short Shaft with a baby driveline to the Transfer Case
2-Ton Military Transfer Case
Corporate Rearend with 4:11 gears and Detroit Lockers
Dana 44 Front End with 4:11 gears and Detroit Lockers
12" I-Beam Rear Bumper with 4 foot Drop Hitch (To pull the Drag Boat)
4" Diameter Driveline Tubing Roll Bar
Custom Stainless Steel Fender Lips on front fenders to be legal
Custom Suspension Lift, Frame Lift and Body Lift. Top of truck was about 7' 8"
This grainy photo was taken on the beach in Seaside, Oregon where it's legal to drive on the beach.
(http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/648/BigBlue001.jpg)
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If you're going to be using it as a daily driver the 700R4/208 is the best choice. You could probably buy a parts truck with that driveline dirt cheap giving you everythign you need.
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Mike, I did this swap several times. Vile is on the right track I feel, get a rusty truck/frame with driveline maybe less motor sitting beside someones house. That way you have ALL of the parts. You can go to the salvage yard/friend & piece it together, but it would be simpler if you had the truck as a donor. As Kaos said, your t-case is a 205 10 spline male. To use a 205 t-case, you will need a rare th350 (26?)spline 205 t-case & support/adapter, if you want a th350. Or rarer 205 or do machine work for a th400. Your driveshafts will work. If you use a 203 t-case you will need different length shafts, but are much easier to find.The 208 can be a good option also. Changing the pedal assy. & column & gear indicator is no big deal (if you have the parts), the clutch safety switch wires(green) become it nutral safety switch wires. I feel getting the parts & "doing it right" is the way to go.Any Questions, Just Ask, Lorne
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Hey thanks for all the great advice guys, this morning I didn't think I was going to need your advice but it looks like I do now.
eBay Item: 260202972438
Me = showcargarage
I'm so excited!
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/1975Blazer001.jpg)
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Mike didn't you have a 2wd blazer? BTW I saw that blazer on ebay...I'm always lookin
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Most excellent!
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Mike didn't you have a 2wd blazer? BTW I saw that blazer on ebay...I'm always lookin
Yes, I'm sad to say I wrecked it but I've found a new owner who's going to give it a good home, he's a Blazer guy too.
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If you're going to be using it as a daily driver the 700R4/208 is the best choice. You could probably buy a parts truck with that driveline dirt cheap giving you everythign you need.
Okay, so if I understand you correctly, you're saying to remove both the transmission and the trasnfer case, these two items,
the four speed transmission (SM465) with granny low and a near indestructable NP205 transfercase
And locate a 700R4 transmission and a 208 transfer case?
Was kind of hoping to leave the transfercase since it's supposed to be in great condition.
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If you're going to be using it as a daily driver the 700R4/208 is the best choice. You could probably buy a parts truck with that driveline dirt cheap giving you everythign you need.
Okay, I've only owned old trucks, this 1975 will be the newest truck I've ever owned, so if I want to find a 'parts' truck, which model and years will I be looking for?
We have a lot of wrecking yards around here and of course CraigsList, eBay and the trader papers are full of parts and parts trucks.
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Since I haven't seen the truck in person, I'm guessing the transmission and transfer case are the "mated" style.
My 71 Chevy in the picture above had a 2 ton Military transfer case and a Short Shaft Turbo 400 with a baby driveline from the tranny to the transfercase which allowed for more lift.
If the current transmission is a mated style, then I'd really like to go the path of least resistance and that's to install an automatic transmission that will bolt right in its place.
At this time it's vitally important that I make the change so I can start driving it ASAP as I can't drive a manual transmission car as I have an artificial leg due to a little accident with my Drag Boat. You can kind of see it in this picture where I'm wet-sanding a car called "The Titanic"
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/TitanicSanding002.jpg)
So I really need to make the swap not as fast as I can as I have an old Ford truck I can borrow but the sooner the better.
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Here's the information I have from the eBay listing, Tranny and Transfercase info in BOLD
Vehicle Description
The last year of no smog required, fully convertible 1975 Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy. Most of the major work has been done on this vehicle to make it an excellent daily driver and a great off-road truck. I have spent that last two years building this truck into the vehicle that I could drive everyday and still four wheel on the weekends. Due to changes in my job and the fact that I now commute I have a new truck that I use everyday and need to sell or trade this one for a new project. The truck has a new 4 inch lift with 33 inch tires(285/70/16).
It has a four speed transmission (SM465) with granny low and a near indestructable NP205 transfercase and 3/4 ton axles front and rear.
Rebuilt 350 motor with 5k miles. $2000
3/4 ton front and rear differentials with 4:10 gears. The front is a Dana 44 with flat top knuckles (perfect for cross-over steering) and the rear is a Corporate 14 bolt full floater. $1500
New brakes front and rear. Front brakes have new rotors, calipers, semi-metallic pads and steel braided brake lines. The rear brakes are a disc conversion that has new rotors, calipers, semi-metallic pads and steel braided brake lines. It does not have a parking brake due to the disc brake conversion. $650
New master cylinder $50
New 4 core radiator $250
New Pro Comp 4inch Suspension lift with new Shocks and Steering Stabilizer $500
New Doug Thorley headers and Flowmaster mufflers with dual exhaust. $550
New front fenders and inner fenderwells. $350
New headlight buckets and rear tail-light lenses. $75
New carpet. Dynamat was laid down under the front half of the interior before the carpet was replaced. $450
New 200 watt CD/MP3 stereo. Jensen CD player with flip-down face and holder/cable for iPod. New 6x9 speaker in custom speaker/storage boxes. $350
New Paint. The bodywork and paint are 3 months old. $2000
The fiberglass top was removed during the paint and bodywork to have the seams refiberglassed (this is where these tops usually crack) before it was repainted inside and out with Marine gloss white boat paint made to stand up to water and the weather. New weatherstripping in the top. Almost all the weatherstripping was replaced in the top before it was remounted on the newly painted body. $750
The inside of the tub and the lower portion of the exterior and inside of the doors have been rhinolined before paint. $300
The rims are Mickey Thompson Classics 16x9.75 with 285/70/16 BFG All Terrain tires. The tires have about 5 thousand miles left on them. I was going to eventually go up to 35s because it would suit the truck better.
The front windshield needs to be replaced due to 2 cracks at the edges. The speedometer only works sometimes (and usually incorrect). I don't know if it is the speedo or the gear in the trans. Another instrument cluster comes with the truck. In addition to a tilt steering column that I had planned to put in the truck.
I know that there are probably numerous other new parts on the truck that I am forgetting. I have spent the last two years rebuilding the truck and I do not have time to use it so it sits unless I can drive it once a week. So it is time to let it go. I have more than $10k in the truck, let alone the time to do most of the work.
Since this vehicle is over thirty years old it is being sold "AS IS" with no warranty written or implied. If you have questions concerning the truck please ask.
Factory power windows and locks on both doors were added using factory equipment and wiring. Both power windows work, the passenger window is a little slow. The power locks need new motors to work correctly. Included is rear window power motor and wiring that has not been installed yet.
Also included is another Dana 44 front differential with factory 4:10 gears. This is outer case, gears, and axles. It does not have the spindles. I have it as a spare for the axle in the truck.
TRADES: I am willing to take a 1950's, 60's, or 70's car in trade for the truck. I am open to a partial trade + cash towards the purchase of the vehicle. The trade needs to be registered, with a clear title. Please send full description and photos. Buyer responsible for transportation of trade vehicle and purchased truck. However, I am open to discussion on this.
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Like we said, no transmission is going to bolt right into place. you need to decide what tranny you want to swap in, and then go to advance adapters to get the correct 10 spline output shaft and TCase adapter.
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***Update***
Have located a 700R4 transmission with the factory stock mated Transfercase from a 1986 Blazer for $400.00 with th torque converter, this was taken out of a good running truck a friend of mine bought for a parts truck for his Blazer.
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Cool. try to snag the driveshafts and crossmember too if you can.
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Going to go look at the 700R4 and Transfercase this morning, also found at least a half dozen Tubo 350/NP205 Transfercases for sale here in the SoCal area, going to call on a few and see if any of them sound like they're in good shape.
If I can find a Turbo 350 already mated up to NP205 Transfercase in good shape ready to bolt in then I think that's the direction I'd like to go, especially if I can get the shifter linkage, plus all the misc parts with it.
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If you're going to be using it as a daily driver the 700R4/208 is the best choice. You could probably buy a parts truck with that driveline dirt cheap giving you everythign you need.
***Update***
Okay, I've decided to go with the 700R4 out of the 1986 Chevrolet Blazer. The mechanic, Fernando, that owns it told me he called his Transmission guy and asked him some questions and his transmission guy told him the 700R4 will bolt up the the PN205 already in my truck. From what I've been reading that doesn't sound correct and I told Fernado that he said he couldn't confirm that was accurate or not.
Maybe someone here can verify?
If possible I would like to go with that option, if not then we're going to install the 700R4/PN208 out of the 86 Blazer into my 1975 Blazer. He has everything left over from the Blazer at his shop.
Sorry for all the newbie questions, just trying to do this right the first time and get this Jimmy configured so I can drive it. By the way, I keep forgetting, it's not a Blazer, it's GMC Jimmy
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Couple more questions...
1. I like a real positive shifting transmission, does anyone have any feedback or recommendation on installing a shift kit in this transmission while it's out of the truck?
2. The Jimmy I just bought came with a spare tilt column with the Automatic Shifter, any tips on hooking this up to the 700R4? The column is out of a truck that had a 3 speed automatic.
3. My truck has rear wheel disc brakes and no parking brake, is there a kit to put a driveline brake on my Jimmie?
Last but least...
4. Is their a Floor Shifter for the 700R4 for a setup like I have is I chose not to use the spare column. My Milk Truck had Lokar shifter on a Turbo 400 that I really liked.
Thanks everyone, will get some pictures as we progress with this project.
Next month we'll be looking for new tires, probably going to go with some 35's for now.
Mike
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I would use the 208. It will hold up well and it's more fuel efficient. If you ever need low range it's got a good gear reduction. As for a firm shift, that's easy enough with a shift kit and a servo upgrade.
For the parking brake you could easily install a hydraulic line lock, however this is not a mechanical brake. You could use a driveline brake or upgrade your calipers.
Your spare column will work since the shift tubes are the same, just the prndl gauge is different.
* http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-700-R4-FAIRBANKS-HI-PERFORMANCE-SHIFT-KIT-M-A74171_W0QQitemZ320186492718QQcmdZViewItem
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Couple more questions...
Last but least...
4. Is their a Floor Shifter for the 700R4 for a setup like I have is I chose not to use the spare column. My Milk Truck had Lokar shifter on a Turbo 400 that I really liked.
Mike
Lokar makes a few different 700R4 shifters (just click on the picture of the style you like, and then go from there!)...
http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/shifters_knobs.htm
Btw, Sweet Kustom, is that Lincoln based or just the quarters???
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Mike, As stated earlier in the post. The 205 you have behind the manual has a 10 spline input shaft. The 700 & TH350 have a 27 spline input. The tranny guy is mistaken. Lorne
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Mike, I sent you an email reply but from my research the crossmember would have to be moved about 3" when going from a SM465/NP205 to a 700R4/NP208. Someone chime in if you have conflicting info...
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As for a firm shift, that's easy enough with a shift kit and a servo upgrade.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-700-R4-FAIRBANKS-HI-PERFORMANCE-SHIFT-KIT-M-A74171_W0QQitemZ320186492718QQcmdZViewItem
Being the Newbie here, we're going to go with your suggestion for the above recommendation as the best kit for my application.
We installed a shift kit in a Turbo 400 for our 1959 Caddy and we think we did everything correctly but the tranny was the first year the Turbo 400 was introduced and it never seem to make a difference, of course the Caddy weighs about 5000 pounds.
We'll start a new thread for this topic.
Thank you!
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Mike, I sent you an email reply but from my research the crossmember would have to be moved about 3" when going from a SM465/NP205 to a 700R4/NP208. Someone chime in if you have conflicting info...
Thanks Chris,
I needed a good excuse to buy a new 1/2" drill. ;D
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Personally I usually use trans-go stuff but for the average guy who isn't a transmission wiz Fairbanks makes a good straight forward kit. B&M is overpriced crap in a box so don't bother with their shift kits. TCI is decent too.
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Personally I usually use trans-go stuff but for the average guy who isn't a transmission wiz Fairbanks makes a good straight forward kit. B&M is overpriced crap in a box so don't bother with their shift kits. TCI is decent too.
I've installed a TransGo kit one other time and called their Tech Line today and the Tech recommended,
7-2P
7-300
7-500
SK-700
For my tranny and application.
He said I could intall this myself assuming had a few mechanican skills under my belt.
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yup, fairly straight forward just not all put together in one box which can be confusing if you aren't sure what you're doing. their stuff isn't really always made for the do it yourselfer only because they give conflicting dataif you are using multiple pieces like you listed. That throws a lot of people off. So if you are even remotely impatient skip the trans go if you are doing it yourself. If you feel confident then go for it!
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Mike, I did this swap several times.
Hi Lorne,
Thanks for you suggestions on my swap, Here's where I'm at... the 700R4 has been completely rebuilt and is ready to bolt in, I'm waiting for some flywheel bolts to arrive from NAPA to bolt the new flywheel to the back of the crankshaft first.
After the transmission is bolted in and secure I'll be almost ready to bold the NP208 Transfercase up to it, this is the transfercase that came with the transmission out of a 1985 Blazer 4x4
I have both crossmembers, the original one that came with my 1975 Blazer (which had a 4-speed and NP205 transfercase), and the crossmember that came out of the 1985 Blazer that went with the 700R4/NP208.
From your experience, (and please, anyone else feel free to add your 2-cents), which crossmember should I use/modify to work in my 1975 Blazer.
They are both very different, here's a picture, the top crossmember is out of my 1975 Jimmy, (bolted to the NP205), and the crossmember in the bottom of the picture is the crossmember that came with the NP208 out of the 1985 Blazer.
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/crossmembers.jpg)
Also, does anyone have a part number I can use to order the below gasket which fits between the NP208 Transfercase and the adapter? I removed the adapter to replace the input seal and while I could make a gasket to replace the old one, I would rather buy one that is ready to go.
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/transfercasegasket.jpg)
Thanks ahead of time for everyone's help... need to get this Jimmy back on the road.
Mike
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Mike, make sure you remember to remove the pilot bearing/bushing from the back of the crankshaft.
As far as the crossmembers go use the lower pictured one. The other one was prone to cracking and I've personally had them break in half. One while I was driving down the highway in my 84 K5.
I'll see if I can find the part # on that gasket.
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Part of me is wondering if what I should do is have my Transmission Tech, modify my 700R4 and my NP205 Transfercase to mate together and then use this "System" for my Blazer and skip the aluminum cased NP208.
NP205 Transfercase while it was still in the Jimmy
http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/1975Chevy4x4RunningGear001.jpg
I'm just guessing but from reading it looks like this is the adapter my Transmission Tech would need?
https://eshop.advanceadapters.com/commerce/ccp1192-28p-n-50-690629-gm-700r4-to-10-spline-np205-coupler-50-6906-50-6906.htm
What I'm trying to do is do this right the first time and end up with a bullet-proof system the will give me years of trouble free operation. At this time I don't plan on selling the Jimmy and would rather do things the right way and the best way to start with.
Modifying crossmembers, modifying drive-lines, modifying shift linkage, etc. etc. etc. is okay, but I really only want to do this once.
I installed a 2-Ton Military Transfercase in my first 4x4 and after 12 years of hard driving never had a problem with it, the tranny, the big block Chevy engine or the drive-lines and u-joints.
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Mike, make sure you remember to remove the pilot bearing/bushing from the back of the crankshaft.
As far as the crossmembers go use the lower pictured one. The other one was prone to cracking and I've personally had them break in half. One while I was driving down the highway in my 84 K5.
It looks like the lower crossmember will have my transfercase sitting higher in the frame? AT least it looks that way?
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I'm sure you'll get many different opinions on this but I like the 208 better.
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Mike, make sure you remember to remove the pilot bearing/bushing from the back of the crankshaft.
Thanks for the tip, for my benefit and for all those that read this thread into the future, can you share with us why this is important?
(I'm guess so it doesn't come unglued and throw parts of itself all over the inside of the transmission where the torque converter is)
I'm assuming the best/easiest way is just to Billy-Bob it out with a screwdriver?
:D
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It will interfere with the installation of your torque converter. The nub on the converter housing fits into the back of the crankshaft to support it. It can't do this with the bushing in there. You can remove it several different ways. 1 use a piloy bearing puller. 2 use a slide hammer. 3 cut it with an air saw and pull it out piece by piece. or 4 pack it with grease and make a punch that fits inside the hole with very little clearance. Smack it in there with a hammer and the grease will push it out. Make sure if you chose this method to wear gloves and safety glasses because high pressure grease squirting out can be painful.
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Thanks,
I'll run down to Autozone and see which of the tools you listed they have I can rent or purchase to remove the pilot bearing.
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Mike, make sure you remember to remove the pilot bearing/bushing from the back of the crankshaft.
Okay, used a "Blind Hole Puller" to remove the Pilot Bearing, took to steps using a smaller puller followed by a larger puller. I can see some kind of ridge or lip inside the opening, is this part of the crankshaft casting or some parts of the pilot bearing still stuck in there?
Here's a pic...
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/Crankshaft01.jpg)
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That whole round silver piece is the pilot bearing although it doesn't look like yours would really interfere with the converter from the pic there. Best to remove it anyway at this point.
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Shazam!
Third try worked like a charm, when to the third largest spread puller and expaned it all the way then used the slide hammer to convince the Pilot Bearing outer case to come out. Vacumned the dirt and metal particles out of the hole and now we're off to take the rented tool back to Autozone.
Thanks VileZambonie! ;D
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Mike, I'm not sure about using the lower crossmember with the 205. I agree looking at just the crossmember, it looks like the transfer case would be higher, but maybe the mounting plate makes up for it? The ones in my trucks look like the Right half of your top one, basically flat (a little step w/gusset plates on both ends). The mounting holes (at the crossmember) are different width on the 205 than the 203 & also I believe on the 208, but that my be incorrect, I'm not that familiar with the 208. I have always liked the 205 myself, but many guys are getting plenty of good service out of the 208. The adapter kit isn't bad money, but I guess you have to alter your driveshafts when using the 205 in this case. I think that is the way I would go. The 208 would be a bolt together deal, shafts & all so that is appealing. Talk to you later, Lorne
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The mounting holes (at the crossmember) are different width on the 205 than the 203 & also I believe on the 208, but that my be incorrect, I'm not that familiar with the 208.
Measuring the width between the mounting holes for the 205 and the 208 I can confirm they are different, we'll measure and post the difference for posterity.
The 208 would be a bolt together deal, shafts & all so that is appealing. Talk to you later, Lorne
We're going to install the 208 at this point in time. We'll clean up the 208 crossmember today and then do a dry run to see how it goes just trying to place the crossmember by itself into the frame to check for fit.
Thanks for chiming in...
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I was thinking the actual mount would swap on the Tcases...
There is nothing wrong with a 208 in my opinion, either tranny is fine. Crawler guys want the 205 to use as a doubler...
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Just an update...
Started this thread on January 20, 2008 and I'm happy to say that this Sunday she'll be ready to start up, cycle the air out of the transmission and top it off with tranny fluid and then take her for a test drive.
Big thanks to everyone that's been answering my questions in this thread and others.
(http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif) (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/images/smilies/props.gif)
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Sweet! Good luck with it!
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Argh....
Was getting ready to start the engine and decided to give everything a good looking over and found the Flywheel bolts are too long and won't let the engine turn over.
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/TooLongFlywheelBolts.jpg)
If it did turn over and tried to start it looks like the ends of the bolts would tear up the back of the engine and rip the oil pan off.
I ordered these bolts through NAPA so I'm not sure why there's a clearance problem as they look to be standard flywheel to crankshaft bolts. Don't think I can cut them while there in place so I'll have to unbolt everything and move the transmission and transfercase back far enough to unbolt the flywheel bolts and then probably cut them down and then re-install them.
Ugh....
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The standard fly wheel bolts are longer than the automatic flex plate bolts. I learned that the hard way about 20 years ago. luckily it was a 2 wheel drive and I only used two standard bolts not all six. One of those look through the bolt bucket and came up with the total amount. I started mine and it made a heck of a racket!
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I was able to get a hacksaw into the area and cut the ends off all the bolts. The flywheel spins freely. Now it's time to hook everything back up and get ready to try to start it and then test drive it.
One new issue... the wire from the previous manual 4-speed has an electrical plug-in with two prong spaces and the 700R4 has an electrical sensor or relay coming out of it with only one prong or contact.
Not sure how to wire this up?
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Are you talking about the TCC solenoid?
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Mike, I think the two wire plug your referring to is for the back-up light switch on the manual transmission. The one wire one on the 700 is, as Vile said, the lock-up solenoid connector. You will need to add the wiring for your Blazer, since it wont have it being a stick shift. You can make up your own or get a kit for the lock-up from several aftermarket sources. Good Luck, sounds like your almost there. Lorne
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Mike, I think the two wire plug your referring to is for the back-up light switch on the manual transmission. The one wire one on the 700 is, as Vile said, the lock-up solenoid connector. You will need to add the wiring for your Blazer, since it wont have it being a stick shift. You can make up your own or get a kit for the lock-up from several aftermarket sources. Good Luck, sounds like your almost there. Lorne
My transmission guy, Dana Sniff, told me that I need to run an wire from "Ignition On" to the terminal on the transmission.
I'm taking the truck over to BowTies in about a half hour to let them perfectly adjust the TV Cable for me.
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml
I need to find a wire to tie into for the lock-up solenoid. (hate wiring things)
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Mike, It's not as simple as finding a hot wire, unless he has done something there that I'm not aware of (which is possible). In normal cases, you need a brake light switch (or a cheesy toggle switch,on-off) to unlock the converter as you come toward a stop sign, ect. Many (stock & aftermarket) use a vacuum reference also. It is possible to make the lock-up work completely hydraulically also. So I Sharpe tranny guy may have come up with something that I'm not familiar with. Better check into it a little more, Lorne
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Yeah I'm a little confused as to why he told you to do that ???
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If you're heading to Bowtie anyways I'd have them just hook up the TCC wiring for you. When I ordered my tranny from them the tranny already comes with different wiring inside the tranny and all you do is hook up the plug with an ignition hot running through a brake switch disconnect so it unlocks the converter when you put on the brakes. Bowtie should have everything you need if you're already there.
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If you're heading to Bowtie anyways I'd have them just hook up the TCC wiring for you. When I ordered my tranny from them the tranny already comes with different wiring inside the tranny and all you do is hook up the plug with an ignition hot running through a brake switch disconnect so it unlocks the converter when you put on the brakes. Bowtie should have everything you need if you're already there.
Yeperdoo... they set me up with a Cruise Control Brake Light Switch to replace the stock switch under the dash connected to the brake pedal. They also set me up with a temperature sending unit and a gage for my dash, told me the tranny shouldn't be going over 180 degrees and if it does to add an extra tranny fluid cooler.
Steve at Bowtie adjusted my cable and then test drove my Jimmy and said it was working perfectly, so tonight after work I'm washing it and putting the interior back together and then it's going into service as my daily driver.
Success!
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Still hoping to see finished pics of the shifter installed ;D
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y in the heck would you wanna you wanna switch to a auto trans???
Why don't you read and answer your own question? ::)