73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: unbludictable on January 25, 2008, 03:18:02 pm
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The driver's side floor on my '76 GMC High Sierra has two holes in it the size of a golf ball. So that tell me that the rust is about the size of a basketball!
Should, I A: Cut the floor and wield a piece to replace it? or B: Lay a piece of metal over the hole and screw it down to cover the hole?
P.S.-I can't wield!!!
I don't crappy work or a crappy look! I am planning to cover the floor with carpet!
What to do?
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never want to lay new metal over old rust it will just rot out the new one..Cut the old one out cut the new one a lil bigger and use seam sealer then rivit it down...Since u cant weld...
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Tell me I don't have to take the cab off the frame to do this!!! Please!!
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you don't have to. ;D
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Thank God!!!
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You can use panel adhesive if you lip it since it isn't a structural item.
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I agree you should use panel adhesive - no rivits required. 3M makes some good stuff.
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Where can I find this stuff? And what's the cost?
I really just want to do this one time, but I know rust and you know rust!!
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there is nothing wrong with Rivets and duct tape and a old stop sign..For them lil holes..use ur license plate lol ......Yea that panel adhesive would be the best way to go..Rivets is just cheaper and a quick fix
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Where can I find this stuff? And what's the cost?
This is what I used to find Lord Fusor adhesive. There are 3 different set times on these also...
Your search for Jobbers returned 3 result(s) for zip code 39090.
CARQUEST
Phone:
Fax:
615 HIGHWAY 19n
W MERIDIAN, MS 39307
US
AUTOMOTIVE COLOR INC.
Phone: 601-371-1887
Fax: 1601-373-0805
3088 TERRY ROAD
JACKSON, MS 39212
US
KEYSTONE AUTO
Phone: 601-355-9544
Fax: 1601-9488266
865 BOLING STREET
JACKSON, MS 39209
US
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Thanks guys! This site is really helpful!
I am no mechanic, you all make me feel like I am!!
Thanks
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Ok was going to go into detail, but found an article that describes it more clearly and has pics too ;D
Rust/Rot Panel Replacement Basics(Welding, but also the majority applies to adhesive style panel replacement, ofcourse you replace the welding portions with adhesive).
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0705sr_rust_removal/index.html
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Thanks guys! This site is really helpful!
I am no mechanic, you all make me feel like I am!!
Thanks
A little useful tip for you, anything that you want to learn how to do, just as someone who knows,go to your local Library/Bookstore to look for the DYI/Professional Books/Vids on it, and look at as many automotive mags as possible(Not just the stuff that interests you, cuase even the little Tuner/Motorcycle/Etc type mags do articles on alot of the Basic Mechanical/Body Work/Etc type repairs)!! Pretty much all of the Basic and Professional stuff has been written down, you just need to take the time and interest in finding it, then reading about it! heck that's the only reason why I have a Library Card or Can be found in a BookStore ;D ;)
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Got my new libriary card yesterday!!
Question....Will a 110 welder help me with most of the body work?
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Yes but get one that uses gas. In my opinion the flux core welders suck. .023 wire is good for sheet metal. I have seen them as low as $200, but for a little more money you can get allot more welder. $300 or $400 wouldn't be out of line.
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O i agree with Blazin....And remember when ur buying...U get what u pay for.... i bought a Lincoln from home depot...Flux/gas it welds up to a 1/4 of mild steel.....Its ok cost me a lil over $500 Wish i would of went with 220 tho...
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I bought this Hobart. I have it set up to weld with shielding gas and .023 wire. I bought it from Northern Tool because of free shipping, and got a free welding cart. It works good, no complaints - but it is not 220V.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200306073_200306073
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A friend is going to let me use his 110 welder just to get started.
Gotta use what I got, for right now!
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Just keep the tip clean. Make sure the wire doesn't get rusty, it will raise all kinds of havoc with feed.
Remember when you are welding you want the heat high enough to melt the two pieces together but not so high that you burn through. You want the weld to soak into the metal not sit on top of it.
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I bought this Hobart. I have it set up to weld with shielding gas and .023 wire. I bought it from Northern Tool because of free shipping, and got a free welding cart. It works good, no complaints - but it is not 220V.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200306073_200306073
dang that is a Steal :o Wishing I had the Cash, and a Garage to put it in :-[ Hobarts are my Top Choice!! I was trainned on them and Lincoln Welders, but any weld I ever did with a Hobart with a Matched Setup, Wire Speed & PSI settings, always came out clean & faster evertime!!! The Lincolns were always tempramental, and chances were that it either Got Too Hot, or never penetraited evenly....
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The problems I've had with with welder were the users fault, not the welder itself. I am still learning to weld (I am getting better though).
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yep, feel your pain. my problems are with the weldor, not the welder.
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The problems I've had with with welder were the users fault, not the welder itself. I am still learning to weld (I am getting better though).
It's been so long since I've welded, I'm probably just as rust as my truck!!! :-X Just keep practicing, I know if I can learn to weld, anyone can!!! Just make sure that if you plan on doing any type of welding on your truck, always be sure to disconnect the battery, the extra feedback from the welder will cause problems with your electrical system....
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Thanks for the tips guys!!
I plan to practice on scraps first before I go near my truck with a welder!