73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: JJSZABO on February 05, 2008, 07:24:52 pm
-
Hey guys, I bought a Painless wiring kit and have a question before I start wiring this thing up. Look at the diagram Painless included in the instructions:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/EngineWiring.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/EngineWiring001.jpg)
I have a new Summitt 85 amp single wire alternater
Oh, the ballast resistor will not be used.
My question lies with the 50amp Maxi fuse - is this all the protection the wiring needs? I ask becasue, the existing old wiring had three fusible links. Any help is appreciated - THANKS! :)
-
That's all you'll need with those circuits, put any thing else on there and you'll have to protect it accordingly. The draw will determine the amperage supplied, not the other way around. The harness has circuits totaling < 50A from the fuse block.
-
CCZ, I understand - thanks.
The 50 amp maxi fuse replaces the junction block on the firewall? I am trying to understand why the stock harness has three fusible links but only one maxi fuse is required in this harness.
-
Looks like a greatly simplified the design over stock. No junction block for one thing, thats one f-link gone. The others were down at the starter (pigtailed off the same wire), right? Both of them are replaced by the maxi-fuse.
Sorry 'bout the earlier post, forgot who you were... page had not finished loading and so many new guys here, you know. ;)
-
CCZ - that's what I was thinking. All's good ;)
Thanks
-
The 50A Maxi is kind of a crappy design being it's location. It's connected to the B+ terminal on the starter and is much bulkier than a fusible link so just make sure you route it accordingly away from the exhaust. Make sure your Battery cable is routed correctly and secured with insulated clamps too since this cable is NOT circuit protected. You could run the 50A maxi directly off of the battery B+ terminal also if you want to lengthen the wire. Yes this will adequately protect your main power distribution provided you do not exceed 50A of current at one given time. That shouldn't be a problem. If you decide to run a high current draw accessory such as an electric fan, amplifiers, auxiliary lighting you will have to run a new dedicated circuit either directly off of the B+ terminal on the starter or the B+ battery terminal just make sure you use ckt protection.
-
The 50A Maxi is kind of a crappy design being it's location. It's connected to the B+ terminal on the starter and is much bulkier than a fusible link so just make sure you route it accordingly away from the exhaust. Make sure your Battery cable is routed correctly and secured with insulated clamps too since this cable is NOT circuit protected.
That's what I was worried about. I will mount the maxi fuse low on the firewall and run the wire in cable shield - wire tied away from any heat or abrasions.
Any suppliers of reproduction OEM cables? My positive has seen better days and the junk yard I visit cut all the cables in the trucks thay have?
-
You can get good replacement cables at any autoparts store. heck even Walmart sells decent cables and terminals now. I wouldn't run the B+ more than a few inches before the maxi fuse especially if you are going to tap in at the starter B+
-
So should I reuse my fusible link from my stock harness at the B+ and then go to the maxifuse on the firewall?
-
No, don't re-use your fusible link. My suggestion is to run the maxi fuse to the B+ terminal on the battery if you want it neat and accessible. You'll have to lengthen the wire but you won't have to crawl under the truck or worry about it being too close to the exhaust. Either way you do it is fine just the maxi fuse take us more space down by the starter and running those wires down the back of the engine around the exhaust wasn't the smartest design to begin with.
-
Ahhhh - I now understand.
The only wires going to the starter are the B+ from the battery and the ignition switch wire to the "S" terminal. The maxi fuse will draw power from the B+ on the battery and I can mount the Maxi fuse on the fender, next to the battery.
Agree....?
-
Yes you can either tap in at the Battery terminal or the B+ terminal on the starter. I would go right to the Battery if you are using that harness. Either way is the same thing. The only other wire you will need at the starter (solenoid) will be the S terminal for cranking and you'll be ready to rock
-
Great!!
Thanks Vile - clear now 8)
-
Ok here it is wired in:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001303.jpg)
The new positive battery cable came with a fusible link already preinstalled to protect the B+ battery wire to the maxi fuse:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001304.jpg)
Everything will be put in split loom as soon as it arrives - I ordered it in bulk.
Everything should be ready to go - I bumped the motor tonight with the key and verything worked. Can't wait for this weekend.
-
Awesome! Looks tight and clean!