73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: 75 C20 on March 05, 2008, 08:29:37 pm
-
i was wondering if anyone has had luck with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting sheetmetal that has had por-15 put on it. could i get it to look good if i primered it and sanded it enough?? primer/paint will stick to por 15 good wont it?
-
I've never used on on a panel that was gonna be painted.
But, it is supposed to be nearly impossible to get anything to stick to it without using their "Tie-coat" primer.
Seems to me though if you got it scuffed good, a good epoxy primer should stick to it. I would try it on a small section first.
Give the epoxy time to cure then see if you can wipe it off with thinner.
-
Assuming the POR that is on there now is bonded well to the metal, you are able to sand and epoxy prime then paint as normal, if that answers your question. If you question the bond of the POR, then maybe consider sand blasting.
-
As long as you topcoat POR 15 or Chassis Saver ( same type of product half the price ) within the cure period paint will stick to it. I don't remember off hand but I believe it is under 8 hours. A large portion of the roof on my car has Chassis Saver brushed on, then several hours later high build urethane primer, then Omni single stage acrylic enamel on it.
-
Is my statement incorrect? You cannot prime over the POR with epoxy, if so why? Just for my knowledge. I was told previously that this could be done properly.
-
I am sure you can. I was only saying that if you do it within the cure window you don't need to scuff it. I have sanded older POR 15 with 180 grit and painted over it too. It was a bear to sand well though. Ate up allot of paper as it is hard.
-
That I understand! I wanted to make sure I wasn't giving out false info. I couldn't understand why it would be a problem. My body shop buddy blasted and coated a old hood from a '40s truck that was pitted with rust brushed on a couple coats of POR, sanded and recoated and it now has a bullet proof coating and is smooth again. The before and after was night and day.
-
I generally paint it on and then wait for it to get tacky and then top coat it with whatever (on my frame) It has held up so far.
-
I generally paint it on and then wait for it to get tacky and then top coat it with whatever (on my frame) It has held up so far.
Thats probably the best way.
Unless the POR is already there. Then the epoxy should work if scuffed.
BTW, IF you guys have never tried it, Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator is a much better product. I've used both on different old chevy a-bodys and the Eastwood stuff is much, much better. Plus, you can paint right over it.