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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Brakes and Braking Systems => Topic started by: the_legend_1981 on March 06, 2008, 03:06:00 pm
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78 c10 manual brakes are dragging on drivers side front. I noticed my truck vibrating on the way home so i checked the tires and they were fine. I felt the rims and that one was pretty much on fire. I jacked it up and the tire spins but you can hear it dragging. what is the likely cause?
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Did you check the wheel bearing's ?
When was the last time you looked at the brakes ? could they be worn out ?
I would pull it apart and check every thing, brakes, bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rods, shocks,
break lines any other thing you can get to while in that area.
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Left front brake hose. They commonly have this problem, the rubber deteriorates, leaving a flap inside. Acts like a check-valve and brakes don't release. Crack the bleader, and let the pressure off, only works until you apply the brakes again, though.
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Ditto on both the above. Crack the bleeder (it will be on fire too after it sticks, so ...) if it rolls afterwards its the hose, otherwise check the rest....
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i'm trying to change the hose but i cant get the bolt out of the frame, any hints?
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There is a 15/16" capture nut on the inside of the frame and a clip on the outside. Are you trying to remove the line completely? Did you get the hardline removed from the connector?
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How about keeping all of this together instead of posting multiple places... I am merging the other post...
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Aight i got it...i was working in the dark so it was a pain but my brother gave me a hand. That was the problem, thanks for all of the help. Sorry about separating the posts.
Don't spell swear words with special characters, this is not allowed here, it adds nothing to the post except something I have to remove. - Captkaos
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i'm trying to change the hose but i cant get the bolt out of the frame, any hints?
Sorry to bump this thread, but I am having the same problem with my 87 Silverado. I can't get the things out of the frame. It appears that on the outside of the frame there is a 5/8 nut integrated with the hose end. I can't get anything to budge and (stupidly) I have partially rounded off the nut on the outside. Any ideas?
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If it's rounded bad enough, it might be vise-grip time. if not, then use a line wrench that wraps around the landings a little more. As long as you don't destroy the part that stays in the frame all is well.
Get some leverage, I've had to get creative in the past. You can use a pipe, or, my favorite, a very large box end wrench to fit over the wrench on the part and give you a longer fulcrum.
Good luck, my friend.
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If its that bad you might want to consider just getting a new flex hose etc. Then just cut the old stuff out.
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Put my truck up on stands last night, tried spinning the passenger front rim and it wouldn't free-wheel at all. Could hear what sounded like the brake pad dragging on the caliper. It takes some effort to actually spin the wheel. Drivers side is a little better but not much. Brake hoses probably, eh?
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Put my truck up on stands last night, tried spinning the passenger front rim and it wouldn't free-wheel at all. Could hear what sounded like the brake pad dragging on the caliper. It takes some effort to actually spin the wheel. Drivers side is a little better but not much. Brake hoses probably, eh?
Sounds like a frozen piston in the caliper to me
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I think I'll pull the wheel off and see what I can see. Crack the bleeder as suggested and see if that helps at all.
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Poking around there last night I see where the hard line connects to the flex hose right at the frame. It doesn't appear that the hard line has to come off at the frame connection if wanting to remove the flex hose, right? And it appears that there are only two nuts on the flex hose to undo: at the caliper and at the frame hard line connection. Correct?
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No. The hard line connection threads inside of the metal end of
rubber hose.
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If it's rounded bad enough, it might be vise-grip time. if not, then use a line wrench that wraps around the landings a little more. As long as you don't destroy the part that stays in the frame all is well.
Get some leverage, I've had to get creative in the past. You can use a pipe, or, my favorite, a very large box end wrench to fit over the wrench on the part and give you a longer fulcrum.
Good luck, my friend.
After much blood, sweat, and tears I finally managed to get the line replaced and the system bled. Only to find out that it didnt fix the problem. Today I replaced both calipers and brake pads, bled again, and seated the pads. I then went for a drive. Now both front brakes are dragging. I jacked it up and tried to turn the wheels, but they wouldn't budge. Now I dont know what to do.
I'm no expert mechanic, so maybe I overlooked something?
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I would try the "crack the bleeders" thing again while it is jacked up and the wheels won't turn.
If the fluid comes out of the bleeder under pressure, and the wheel spins freely after, then you have a problem with fluid not being able to return to the master cylinder... whether it is hoses, master cylinder problem, actuator rod adjustment,etc.
If the fluid dribbles out, and the wheel still won't spin, then your problem is in the calipers ( I know you said you replaced them, so this shouldn't be the issue.
Assuming the problem is with the fluid returning to the master cylinder, and that you have already replaced the rubber hoses, you need to find out why the fluid can't get back to the master cylinder.
Did this problem just start happening? Was the brake booster recently replaced (actuator rod adjustment)?
Is the fluid inside the master cylinder clean (particles blocking fluid return ports or keeping the pistons in the master cylinder from returning)? Is the pedal coming back up all the way?
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What is the likelyhood of the proportioning valve being the problem? O'reilys told me they dont make them aftermarket.
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Fixed. Master Cylinder. Thanks!