73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: hotrod24 on March 19, 2008, 06:42:13 pm
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hey how hard would it be to put this piece on my cab i have seen how it is done on here with the whole cab corner but how would this be done
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/cabcornerplate1.jpg)
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ALOT easier IMO.
We put on two sets of cab corners, the full ones and done them over the originals, and it was a PITA. I kow you aint supposed to put em on over the old ones but we did since we don't have a welder.
Those would go over them easily because they are made to be slip ons, and we plan to get two for our 84 and put them on.
I'd say go for it they'd be alot easier then the full ones.
Now if yours is rotted behind the cab you need a full corner, but you could get away without one. Just personal opinion there.
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how did it go over it looks like it would stick out and not be smooth
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Yea up top it stuck out the thickness of the metal piece you buy, you can just smooth over it with bondo or fiberglass, it's what we did and never showed after.
If you cut the old out you can flange the old back, lay in the new and it'll be smooth.
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ok cool if i cut the old one out how do you do the measurements that is what i am afraid of. here is a pic
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0223.jpg)
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well wait til you get your new piece, then throw the new piece on and mark it. Draw a line on the cab where the top of the new piece is and all around back if you get a full corner.
Then this gets different, are you going to screw or rivet it on or weld?
If you rivet I'd come down say a good 3/4 to 1 down from your mark and cut, below the line you drew, then ig you want to flange that back do so and lay on your new piece. if you are going to weld you can cut it at your line and but weld, or still flange it and leave extra then weld and grind smooth.
I know it aint the best but hey we're broke alot of the time and we just put them on over the old, grind or sand to make it fit, pop rivet it on then grind the rivet heads down and the lip up top then fiberglass and bondo smooth.
If you put it on over the old you could cut out an inch into the good metal with no rust, then hit it with undercoat, por-15 or etching primer, just something to protect it, then put on your new piece.
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yea i am going to weld it and i would like to cut it out and then put the new piece on i dont understand if it is a slip on why would you have to cut to put it on
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To make a long story short. Get your new piece, cut out the bad stuff, hold the new piece up and mark it, cut off the new piece a little bit bigger than the cut out. Flange it if you are going to, screw it in place with self tappers, weld it, remove the self tappers, weld up those holes, do your body work.
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you don't have to cut anything to put it on if it's slip fit, even the ones that aint slip fit we don't cut.
It's just personal prefference if you want to cut out the bad or whatever, or if you don't want it to overlap.
As you said if you throw it on over the old and then weld it on they'll be a overlap joint that you'd have to fill with filler to blend and smooth.
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I've always cut as much bad away as possible so it doesn't continue to spread. Weld and grind and weld and grind and fill and sand! sounds like a song lol
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Yes you do have to cut out the old / bad. If you don't you are just wasting your time and money. It will keep rusting underneath and the next time it will be major surgery. I don't care if it says slip fit or not. they don't fit right layed over the top of old metal. I only over lap the new panel about and 1/8" to a 1/4" I flange the edge of the old panel. So the new one set down flush. My flange is twice as wide as my over lap, so the weld bead is down flush too. Or I but weld the patches, but thats more on a high dollar restoration.
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To make a long story short. Get your new piece, cut out the bad stuff, hold the new piece up and mark it, cut off the new piece a little bit bigger than the cut out. Flange it if you are going to, screw it in place with self tappers, weld it, remove the self tappers, weld up those holes, do your body work.
+1 this is how I did it. If I can do it, anyone can! ;)
DO NOT LEAVE OLD RUST BEHIND THE NEW PART - this will only start rusting out the new part. Fix it right.
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yes it might come back but it's gonna take awhile to do so. We put cab corners over old ones on an s-10 that had fist sized holes, and about 3 years later we took them off, and they had not got any worse, and we put the cab corners right back on it, painted it and got rid of it a few years later, never showed any signs or getting worse.
You are definately supposed to cut out the old stuff though.
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what kind of wire do you use for the mig welder i would like to weld with out the gas so i would need the wire that dont use gas if that is possible
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That would be flux core .023 wire - but I would NOT use it for sheetmetal. It burns too hot and is susceptable to burning through. Gas is the way to go - then use .023 regular wire. Is there a reason you cannot use gas?
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ok i am ready just tell me how to do this
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don't waste your time and money on flux core wire, the stuff is marginal at best for exhaust work.
Check out these pics, might give you some in site.
http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/
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yea cool thanks blazin how do you screw it up the new part do you have metal to screw it in to
i know this is not about welding but how did you do that with your fender i seen it in the pics you showed me am going replace my fender and i wanted to do it that way it was cool how you put that 2+4 and held your hood
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That was a work / plow truck so I didn't but weld that one. I over lapped the metal a little bit. Flanged the old metal on the top cut of the cab corner. The rocker I just over lapped it a little, can't really flange that area. I just tap it in a little with the chisel tip of my body hammer.
Not quite sure what you are asking about the fender?
When I put a nose on a truck I put the hood on first that way it doesn't take two guys. I can set the hood in place by myself, bolt it to the hood hinge arms with it in the closed position. then I open the hood, mount the inner, then the outer fenders, then I mount the hood sprigs. I close the hood and adjust it as needed. I also use a porta power to push the top of the core support out from the fire wall so I can get fender to door line right.
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well about the fender i am geting a new one and i did not want to take the hood off so i wanted to know how you did it. how did you make that 2+4 stay
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Ancient body mans secret!
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Just stuff it up under the hood.
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is this the right mig welder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55525
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is this the right mig welder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55525
I would say no , I have found Harbor Freight sells junk I bought a Hobart 140 old welder guy told me this is one of the easiest for a newbie
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I have a Chicago Electric stud weld dent puller. I haven't had any problems with it. I think you would be better off buying something local at Home Depot, Lowes, or you local welding supply place though. As this way it will be easier to get parts for it if you need to. Plus you can buy it all set up for gas etc.
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is this the right mig welder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55525
One of my students bought one of these and is bringing it in next week because he wants my opinion on it. So I'll test it out and let you know how good it works.
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ok cool just let me know vile i know this might not be the best but it is cheap and if it will do the job i will be happy with it all i need to do is fix my cab corner and my dash
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You will be fixing every thing and anything metal once you have a welder. I have fixed out door furniture, office furniture, metal dining room chairs, folding chairs, drum stands, crib parts, file cabinets, whether vanes, mail boxes, front gates, railings, basket ball hoops, bird baths, you name it I think I have welded it over the years!
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yea i am sure i will find more things to weld
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my cab corner was almost exactly like that...cut out the rust, welded in a new piece, and skim coated it...it's holding up great.
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hey vile did you check out that welder