73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: Mamby on March 25, 2008, 10:50:01 pm
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Anyone know of a cheap, but decent sandblaster? i have a k10 thats a bit rusty and the paint is faded. Not sure how much it would cost for someone to sand it down and paint it, but i figured it would be cheaper to sandblast the things that dont need replaced. Also, anyone know if i could get just a piece of a new bed? Ill post pics tomorrow probably of what im in need of. thanks
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Mamby, You do not want to sandblast your bodypanels, other than rusted spots, around the edges or other "hard" areas. The heat from the abrasiveness will warp normal flat sheet metal areas. You want to either sand off or chemically remove the paint if thats what you want to do. Check the on-line catalog on this site for the bed piece, not sure what piece your referring to, but Chris will most likely have it. Lorne
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Ok, so looking at another thread, i think since im on springbreak started friday, and i get paid Wednesday, im going to go buy a DA sander, and probably a spray gun.
If i was to get the panels down to bare metal, what steps would i need to take to paint the panel and have a nice finish to it that wont start falling off after a week?
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Make sure you have a big enough air compressor. I tried running my DA on an 8 gallon compressor and it was constantly running until it eventually burnt out the motor in no time. Luckily, I got a sweet deal on a new 60 gallon compressor, thereafter it worked like a charm.
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Ok, i wasnt planning on running a high PSI because i saw somewhere it might warp the metal if you run alot of pressure and apply alot of force, but i might look a compressor when i go and buy the DA sander.
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You want a 60 gallon 5.5 HP two stage compressor minimum. One thing to keep in mind. The best primer / foundation in the world for a new paint job is factory paint. Providing it is in OK shape as far as checking, peeling, rust, etc. In other words you don't have to take it down to bare metal unless the paint is really in that bad of shape. As far a s primers I like a self etching rust inhibitive primer. Martin Senior makes a good one. Called etch filler, it is allot like Duponts Vari Prime but less than half the cost. A good high build 2K urethane primer is in order to give a nice sealed base. 5 Star makes a good 2K primer. 3 parts, primer, reducer, & activator. Epoxy primers / sealers are good if you want a final barrier under the paint. They are also good for bare metal, but don,t have the etching quality. You can how ever etch bare metal with Duponts 244S.
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if i was to take it down to the bare metal, what steps would i need to do? Sorry for all the nooby questions, never done this before and i just want to get it decent the first try
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I am spoiled here in Michigan. There is a local soda blaster that is cheap and sandblasting is near free too. Here is a link to my box that was done with a paint striper and then a da with 80 grit paper. After this was an etching primer and then blocking primer sealer and paint. I always told people that factory paint was the best primer too. The painter that painted my blue truck told me that the solvets will losten up the old paint and cause the new paint to shrink. I didn't beleive him so he painted a panel half old paint and what do you know, it shrunk ???
forgot the link here it is http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=7549.0
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It couldn't have been factory paint. I have panted over more factory paint than I care to remember, have never had the new stuff shrink or pull scratches. I have seen it do it if the old paint was checked or crazed.
As far as taking all the paint off. Chemical stripping is one way. Aircraft stripper works the best I usually use this method on a hood or large panel that is easy to warp with the next method.
I like to use a large variable speed grinder, with an 8" soft pad for self stick paper. I use 8" 36 grit paper to take it all off. let the paper do the work, not much pressure, & 1,800 to 2,000 RPMs. Then sand the metal with the DA and 6' 100 / 180 grit paper. Next is etch the steel and epoxy primer, or self etching primer. Then high build urethane 2 K primer. Block sand that and reprime if needed. Then finish sand with 400 grit on the DA, or wet sand with 400 then 600 and a soft block.
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When I was planning on having my truck painted, the biggest issue seemed to be that the older vehicles were painted using a lacquer finish and does not react well with today's modern paints.
My resto project is going to be a "daily driver" so taking everything right down to the metal was never really considered. I used a combination of 200 -> 400 grit paper with my DA sander to ensure there was no "shine" left on the surface. Once in the shop, my painter sprayed the whole thing down with a good primer coat before applying the base coat and finally the clear coats.
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I agree older unkept lacquer paint is not a good base.
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How do you guys get you paint? do you go to a shop or order it off the internet? if you guys could give me a link to a site i would be grateful :)
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I buy mine from a local parts store that has a paint counter.
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Ditto i got a auto body paint shop down the road...Im sure if u snoop around u can get a good source
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here i have never bought paint from here but here is some links
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?
itemID=1453&itemType=CATEGORY
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-991-paints-primers.aspx
http://www.tptools.com/dg/186_POR15-and-Restoration-Paints.html
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Mamby, I agree with the "local paint supplier" idea, there are alot of things you can do over the internet, however this is one I feel is best to keep local. Here comes the UPS guy & the paint can has a dent that effected the seal a little at the lid (just a little) there is some clear goo hardened in the bottom of the box. What is the goo, what's it do? is a little less in the paint going to hurt anything? Maybe make a claim with UPS & re-order? What if the color isn't what you thought is was or flat out isn't what you ordered. See where I'm going? Lets say your on your second coat & you spill half of the catalyst. Now what? Maybe the local paint store will have something to help you out? The little things you need to finish the job, six pieces of micro fine sandpaper, polishing compound, but also clips, rubber bumpers, 6 of these 12 of those, ect.ect. can be bought if you know there out there. Find a good supply store & spend an hour or two just looking around. Also you may get some knowledge, P- sheets, ect. just asking questions. Now with what Chris is doing (hard parts) alot less to go wrong, sure at times there might be shipping damage, but not near to the extent of liquid & see what I'm getting at: Chris set up this site to help "truck guys" & make a buck, support him for that. The local paint supplier is there when you need them & for the little stuff you may not even knew existed or for knowledge that you need NOW, support them for that. Just my opinion, Lorne
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I use Southern Polyurethane Inc. paint. Good stuff and I buy it over the internet. See http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/